The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 13

I've since forgotten how to space lines properly in forums but here are all the settings with number of clicks. Also remember that the ALL adjustments change accordingly to Cut and Drive changes. You shouldn't need to adjust them manually. If anyone has calibrated and thinks my number of clicks seems like a lot I'd love to hear comments because this is my first set of calibrations and tweaks. Also, one last reminder. Warm and Normal are calibrated to D65, and Cool is calibrated for Panasonic 3D Active Shutter glasses to D65. You don't want to use these cools settings for viewing without synced glasses and this includes playing 3D converted to 2D because the TV will still use the Cool temp if you select that for 3D mode. You can look back in previous posts for all the charts.

Warm
default clicks my value
R Cut 80 +3 83
G Cut 80 -18 6E
B Cut 80 -26 66

R Drive FF -20 EB
G Drive FF 0 FF
B Drive 80 +25 99

All Cut 80 +3 83
All Drive FF 0 FF

Normal
default clicks my value
R Cut 80 -2 7E
G Cut 80 -22 6A
B Cut 80 -29 63

R Drive F6 -9 ED
G Drive FF 0 FF
B Drive B7 -30 99

All Cut 80 -2 7E
All Drive FF 0 FF

Cool
default clicks my value
R Cut 80 -11 75
G Cut 80 -15 71
B Cut 80 -28 64

R Drive E8 +22 FE
G Drive FF 0 FF
B Drive EA -87 93

All Cut 80 0 75
All Drive FF 0 FF


Edit: Updated Normal Red Drive and Blue Drive clicks. Thanks Buddha and UTGuy for seeing this.
Edit: Changed All Cut clicks to 0 because it should change automatically with the change in ~Cut.
Edited by anikun07 - 1/18/13 at 5:13pm

Back on the subject of the possible scaling/sharpness issue I mentioned a couple of weeks ago:

Could anyone try this pattern on their UT50, making sure that the TVs overscanning is all disabled:



And see how it compares to mine:



Why is there so much spill on both sides of the horizontal white lines? And you can see it above the horizontal green line too.

Also, I noticed some dithering beside some of the vertical green lines (not shown above - it was on the inner side of the innermost green line). Does anyone else get this?

My 55UT50 arrived yesterday about an hour before the delivery window of 12:30-2:30 and I went ahead and set it up using the Custom settings listed here on the thread.

This is an awesome set. Thank you to all of you for your work fiddling with the calibration and testing the crap out of this series. This picture quality on Blu-Ray is better than I expected even with the possitive reviews on this site. I did a test run with The Dark Knight Rises while I changed the picture settings.

I did hook my cable box up via component and it looks great. I haven't been this excited about a purchase in a long time.

Once I'm in the service menu how do i navigate? pressing 1,2,3,4 get me into the menu but how do I move up and down the menu?

Do you have the following values for your calibration report?

Contrast -
Brightness -
Color -
Tint -
Sharpness -
Color Temp -
Color Mgmt -
C.A.T.S. -
Video NR -

HDMI Settings

RGB Range -
Content type -

Advanced

Block NR -
Mosquito NR -
Motion Smoother -
Black Level -
3:2 Pulldown -

1 & 2 Move you through the menus. Once at the White Balance menu you want to change the picture mode to Cinema

9 cycles the picture mode Vivid, Standard, Cinema

7 cycles the picture temp warm, normal & cool

3 & 4 Move you through the RGB Cut & RGB Drv <- This is where you will have to press the volume +/- to change the value (Make sure you record your defaults)

Once you are finished turn the TV off with the power button on the side of the TV.

Post #250 on page 9 of this thread has anikun07's picture settings.

For the cool settings I think you may have made a typo for b drive -87 clicks,is that correct? I'm using normal and warm now and they seem to look great to me,using the proper click method made a noticeable difference. Thanks again for all the hard work you've done it is truly appreciated.

So I just got this TV, should I use those settings of anikuns right now or wait until after the "break in" period?

I don't think so, it's a huge cut because the 3D lens when since adds blue and green so it has to be trimmed and cool already has a ton of blue to start with. EA to 93 is a big change, almost from max output to minimum, but it looks good and that's what the meter said.

anyone?

I would wait until after the break in period.

Does anyone know if you can view videos from you iPhone on a 60UT50?

can anyone help me find the settings you're supposed to use to break in the 50u50?

Just don't use vivid or 100 contrast.

Hi guys I'm new here and please correct me if I'm using the wrong topic!

I own PANASONIC TX-P42UT50E, in your ТVs, picture settings include higher levels than my, for example my contrast is up to 60.

Please can somebody help me calibrate my TV for better view?

Thanks!

The european models have different menus, picture options and different controls. Your best bet is download the free avs709 disc here and do some basic calibration of contrast, brightness and color/tint.

This one http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration ?

He's lucky,the euro or uk model has a cms and wb pro menu.

That would be the one

What exactly is the point of this, aside from confusing the hell out of people. Honestly, what a stupid thing to do... Why can't they just use the same damned settings globally?

I have the NZ model, and it looks like it's almost identical to the EU model ('Overscan' On/Off instead of HDMI size and Pixel Orbiter On/Auto with no Off setting etc.).

Waiting for someone to calibrate an EU model so I can try the results.

We have two UT50 threads for some reason. At the moment all it's doing is scattering info. Would have made more sense if one was centered around the US style UT50 and the other around the EU type.

I just play PC games with any static HUD or crosshair elements removed. It's safe, because I'm there 100% of the time. No chance of a disk hanging etc. Fit's full screen cleanly.

The people who run slides, I don't understand the point. There have been cases of slide playback halting (even off USB), so there is always the risk of having a "can't play" message retained in the screen. If you want some kind of unattended break-in, why not just leave 'Scrolling Bar' running. I doubt that will ever stop unexpectedly, and surely black/white cycles are the best break in? All sub pixels are cycled on and off equally. What's the point of coloured slides?
Edited by Oubadah - 12/19/12 at 4:51pm

connecting my laptop to the tv i get the following, is this ok? or it doesn't seem to be 1:1 pixel?

Back again. I'm still wondering what is causing this problem. I'm noticing it mostly when there is a large amount of a solid color on screen, and then a light source on screen or if the solid color is trying to fade into a lighter or darker color I'm getting these "layered" or basically its as if the colors aren't able to blend smoothly, instead it seems its trying to blend and as the color shades get lighter it forms lines like a how a rainbow would look. I know my description sounds ridiculous but I am very new to this. It's not necessarily severe, but when everything else is picture perfect it's noticeable.

Do you have any type of Deep Color enabled, or from a PC you should either have YCC 4:4:2 enabled as the output or set the TV to look for RGB 0-255 if your sending a PC full range signal.

Those don't look like 1920x1080 patterns, and the camera is too far away to really see anyway. But looking at the first one, it looks like image is off center as the top and right hand lines aren't visible. Try the test pattern I used above (it's 1080p if you save it). Is your laptop's native res 1920x1080? If so, look at the pattern on that (fullscreen) and compare. the white and green lines are supposed to be one pixel in width. And if you want to take pictures, you'll need to take macro shots.

So explain this to me in a little more detail. Is it only when the scene is in motion, or is it in stills as well? If you have a sample, give it to me and I'll check.

It sounds either like posterization (which can be seen even in still frames - I only really notice this in PC games, in TV and film It doesn't bother me) or the colour fringing/rainbow effect which I'm told is caused by blue, red and green phosphors having slightly diferent reaction times and/or the way subfields work. I mentioned this in the other thread, with a red fringe being visible between skin and hair colours.

I found that I got better results sending a full range RGB signal and setting 'DVI: Full' than having nVidia send 4.4.2. However, it requires a work around to make nVidia send what the TV thinks is a DVI signal, and on my NZ UT50, the 'DVI: Full' setting is not displayed if it detects an HDMI signal (with sound etc.).
Edited by Oubadah - 12/19/12 at 7:11pm

I'll see if I can't snap a picture of it.

Hi guys.

Well the thing is i connected my laptop (lenovo y580) to my UT50 tv but im not getting the full image on my tv, there's always a small black space on the edges of the tv ( not to big like 1 or 2 mm) my question is can this black edges cause a IR on the tv or is it ok if i leave it like that, because right now i have it on zoom to avoid those lines but im loosing quality on my movies and tv shows.

Thanks!

What GPU does the laptop have. There might be a setting in the graphics driver control panel that is messing with the size.

So do I need a standalone blu-ray player or I can use the one in my laptop Dell XPS L502X to calibrate my TV. I'm mounting the disc with Daemon Tools Light and then using VLC player to play the disc, I see 0% Red Saturation, 25% Red Saturation and so on. but I can't see any menu options.

I think it would be very hard for me to calibrate my tv as I'm a BIG newbie in this things , I found this article http://lifehacker.com/5858625/how-to-calibrate-your-hdtv-and-boost-your-video-quality-in-30-minutes-or-less, hope it will help me a little bit.