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The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 26

post #751 of 1548
sorry wrong thread.
Edited by Frank Spizzirri - 2/13/13 at 8:03am
post #752 of 1548
Is anyone else experiencing a high-pitched noise coming from their UT?


I didn't notice it until I moved it into place where my old plasma was, which is near the corner of the room. I can hear the normal buzzing only on bright scenes but this high frequency noise is there pretty much all the time and even on dark scenes it is still there albeit slightly less. When standing behind the TV the noise seems to be coming from the top right board or the power supply in the middle and I'm very tempted to open it up to find out.

It sounds a lot like this 15kHz audio clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSozmeBpRMw
post #753 of 1548
Who has the settings for both 3D mode and regular Mode. this TV is Awesome. I have noticed though that in 3D some of the moves are very blury such as Avatar. Prometheus steamed from my computer through my oppo is crystal clear.
post #754 of 1548
I had a little free time this afternoon so it was the perfect opportunity to pop open my UT50. It is very easy I can tell you, if anyone should ever need to do this. Unplug the set first. The top and bottom screws are the same size, the side screws are shorter and just like the screws near the middle. The plastic bezel is a ltitle loose at the top but it stays on. Just make sure to disconnect the Bluetooth adapter before you take the back off.



Once inside I was surprised that Panasonic did not include any fans on the UT series. At least on mine anyway. I went around to all the screws(my UT is a -2 and has the correct lock washers) and none of them were loose.





Next I carefully plugged the power cord into the back of the set and turned it on. This is where you need to be very careful because touching the wrong thing could definitely cause serious injury or worse. My tool of choice here was a paper towel roll since wood is non-conductive and I used that to apply slight pressure to the offending capacitors.

I found that by jamming something between the top two CBB21 capacitors(reddish-orange ones) the high frequency sound was greatly reduced. These CBB21 capacitors are coated in epoxy and are fire-resistant so it should be safe to put something between them. My choice was electrical tape that I made into a thicker wedge and stuck it in the gap.








Lower "Video" board:



Left side boards:

post #755 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealjustin View Post

I had a little free time this afternoon so it was the perfect opportunity to pop open my UT50. It is very easy I can tell you, if anyone should ever need to do this. Unplug the set first. The top and bottom screws are the same size, the side screws are shorter and just like the screws near the middle. The plastic bezel is a ltitle loose at the top but it stays on. Just make sure to disconnect the Bluetooth adapter before you take the back off.



Once inside I was surprised that Panasonic did not include any fans on the UT series. At least on mine anyway. I went around to all the screws(my UT is a -2 and has the correct lock washers) and none of them were loose.





Next I carefully plugged the power cord into the back of the set and turned it on. This is where you need to be very careful because touching the wrong thing could definitely cause serious injury or worse. My tool of choice here was a paper towel roll since wood is non-conductive and I used that to apply slight pressure to the offending capacitors.

I found that by jamming something between the top two CBB21 capacitors(reddish-orange ones) the high frequency sound was greatly reduced. These CBB21 capacitors are coated in epoxy and are fire-resistant so it should be safe to put something between them. My choice was electrical tape that I made into a thicker wedge and stuck it in the gap.








Lower "Video" board:



Left side boards:


Very ambitious but why would anyone attempt this very very unwise imo Anyone that does this and is still in warranty deserves whatever happens
Edited by chunon - 2/15/13 at 2:46pm
post #756 of 1548
I agree! Unless you are 100% comfortable doing this sort of thing then don't try it. Removing the back is very simple and I didn't touch anything inside except the screws and the two capacitors that were buzzing. Judging from other photos taken of the insides of the ST50 it seems like that model has white epoxy or something around the base of these capacitors but my UT50 did not. A stupid move by Panasonic and a cost cutting measure that makes no sense.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1455685/going-rogue-with-buzzing-issues-for-the-panasonic-p55st50#post_22915359



I bought my UT50 online and the store no longer sells it so I cannot exchange it for the same model or any other Panasonic plasma and I don't want to go LCD. I could have called Panasonic and then they would have sent out a service technician out who would most likely be older than myself. Thus, he or she would probably not be capable of hearing the high-frequency noise and just suggest replacing the entire SS board. That would be fine except that the new part might be worse and when I know what the issue is already and can easily fix it with a little tape, why go through all that?




The TV was on for quite some time after I inserted the tape and nothing was warmer than usual. There is also very little pressure being applied to either capacitor because the tape is so thin. The tape is simply acting as a spacer to keep these components from vibrating in such a way that is audible.
post #757 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealjustin View Post

I agree! Unless you are 100% comfortable doing this sort of thing then don't try it. Removing the back is very simple and I didn't touch anything inside except the screws and the two capacitors that were buzzing. Judging from other photos taken of the insides of the ST50 it seems like that model has white epoxy or something around the base of these capacitors but my UT50 did not. A stupid move by Panasonic and a cost cutting measure that makes no sense.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1455685/going-rogue-with-buzzing-issues-for-the-panasonic-p55st50#post_22915359



I bought my UT50 online and the store no longer sells it so I cannot exchange it for the same model or any other Panasonic plasma and I don't want to go LCD. I could have called Panasonic and then they would have sent out a service technician out who would most likely be older than myself. Thus, he or she would probably not be capable of hearing the high-frequency noise and just suggest replacing the entire SS board. That would be fine except that the new part might be worse and when I know what the issue is already and can easily fix it with a little tape, why go through all that?




The TV was on for quite some time after I inserted the tape and nothing was warmer than usual. There is also very little pressure being applied to either capacitor because the tape is so thin. The tape is simply acting as a spacer to keep these components from vibrating in such a way that is audible.

Its your tv in the end but recommending this procedure for others is a little much. What happens if you do need a service call are you going to take it back apart and remove the electrical tape ? Also the bashing of older folks around here is getting old no pun intended
post #758 of 1548
It's a fair point though. The service tech they sent for mine said he couldn't hear the buzz, and he was 50+. Of course age isn't a perfect indicator of hearing as there are plenty of younger folks who don't hear that frequency, and older who do.

I just apparently tune in very well to that plasma buzz frequency as I've never been around one I couldn't hear the high frequency buzz in bright quiet scenes over dialogue etc. unfortunately. Drives me nuts and I'll never give plasma another chance because of it (and to a lesser extent IR issues I run into with hours and hours of ESPN and video games). Got suckered into trying the UT50 due to the crazy prices--loved the picture (at least in a dark room) but couldn't tune out the buzz so it went back as I posted before.
post #759 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaul1114 View Post

It's a fair point though. The service tech they sent for mine said he couldn't hear the buzz, and he was 50+. Of course age isn't a perfect indicator of hearing as there are plenty of younger folks who don't hear that frequency, and older who do.

I just apparently tune in very well to that plasma buzz frequency as I've never been around one I couldn't hear the high frequency buzz in bright quiet scenes over dialogue etc. unfortunately. Drives me nuts and I'll never give plasma another chance because of it (and to a lesser extent IR issues I run into with hours and hours of ESPN and video games). Got suckered into trying the UT50 due to the crazy prices--loved the picture (at least in a dark room) but couldn't tune out the buzz so it went back as I posted before.

How bout the fact that some plasmas just do not buzz ? People have to justify their experience so they make up some age oriented fraility. I suppose I can't see IR because my vision is faulty ?
post #760 of 1548
Good job realjustin I will perform this simple easytroublwshoot and minimize the buzzing. My speakers drown out the buzzing anyway but there is no harm in doing this.

Someone else might use epoxy or similar none conductive method but I wouldn't just to keep the warranty.
post #761 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by openwheelracing View Post

Good job realjustin I will perform this simple easytroublwshoot and minimize the buzzing. My speakers drown out the buzzing anyway but there is no harm in doing this.

Someone else might use epoxy or similar none conductive method but I wouldn't just to keep the warranty.

WOW
post #762 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

How bout the fact that some plasmas just do not buzz ? People have to justify their experience so they make up some age oriented fraility. I suppose I can't see IR because my vision is faulty ?

I don't agree that some plasmas just don't buzz, but some are definitely worse than others. I am inclined to agree with you that it's probably not age related. The plasma buzzing is not really all that high pitched, it's not a sound that someone just wouldn't be able to hear even if it was present. Now I imagine when someone says they can't hear buzzing or they have no IR, it just means that the two issues are so minor they have virtually no impact on the person watching, not that they don't exist.
post #763 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

WOW

whatever you mean by that, it seems unnecessary to me.

I've been thinking about opening the back and hot glue some trouble spots anyway. I actually think the tape wedge is a good idea. I bought this TV and I can do whatever I want to it. So long as I still have my warranty from Costco, Panasonic and American Express, then I am open.

The picture quality of this P55UT50 is unbeatable considering the price. Minimizing the buzzing noise is only the icing on the cake. This TV combined with my beautiful DIY speakers is little heaven in my man cave.
Edited by openwheelracing - 2/15/13 at 7:10pm
post #764 of 1548
Yes you can certainly do whatever you like it s your tv but to expect the warranty to be honored after you open up the set and modify it is a little far fetched. Wonder why folks with legitimate service requesrs have trouble getting resolution ?
post #765 of 1548
Ok, I just got a 55UT50 setup and I've got some questions for you all.
I've got the buzzing on bright scenes... good to see the cap wedge mod.

I created a few basic color images to check out the panel's performance and something strange happened.
I was looking at full blue and it was nice and bright then the screen started to dim. I'm not sure what I did, but going in and out of the photo viewer did restore the brightness for a minute or so.
Then it happened again. I started checking the menus to see if there was some setting which had changed but there was nothing I could notice.

I also observed what i'll call noise or pixelization with the 3D image. If I switch the 3D to 2D the image is clear. Glasses on or off the image looks like a dithered 16-bit VGA image, it actually looks horrible.

Any thoughts on the image issues? I've actually got two at the house, but only opened one thinking one is going back. I'm not sure if I should open the other one and check it out.
post #766 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealjustin View Post

I agree! Unless you are 100% comfortable doing this sort of thing then don't try it. ...
The TV was on for quite some time after I inserted the tape and nothing was warmer than usual. There is also very little pressure being applied to either capacitor because the tape is so thin. The tape is simply acting as a spacer to keep these components from vibrating in such a way that is audible.

Good find, Thanks!
I will totally cover the caps with clear Silicone Sealant on my out of warranty tv this summer. Silicone Sealant is perfect for this job as it's high temp. conductive/resistant.
Thanks!
post #767 of 1548
Ok, so from what I've read I guess the dimming is ALB "feature" which I'm not sure about how I feel.

I'm not sure about the buzz, it's beginning to bug me. compared with the pz800 the 800 is silent.

As for the 3d PQ I've tried to find more feedback on, but there's too many post if someone has posted on.
Here's how the image looks in 3d...


This look is similar to what I saw with the 2d display before adjusting settings like contrast and sharpness.
But I can't find any settings that affect the 3d which makes the picture better. Is this just as good as 3d gets on this set? I think LG passive 3d looks better than this.
Edited by Jeff D - 2/16/13 at 7:52am
post #768 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff D View Post

Ok, so from what I've read I guess the dimming is ALB "feature" which I'm not sure about how I feel.

I'm not sure about the buzz, it's beginning to bug me. compared with the pz800 the 800 is silent.

As for the 3d PQ I've tried to find more feedback on, but there's too many post if someone has posted on.
Here's how the image looks in 3d...


This look is similar to what I saw with the 2d display before adjusting settings like contrast and sharpness.
But I can't find any settings that affect the 3d which makes the picture better. Is this just as good as 3d gets on this set? I think LG passive 3d looks better than this.

Only way to improve the 3d picture would be to calibrate that mode in the service menu of there are some settings in this thread that might work for you.
post #769 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

How bout the fact that some plasmas just do not buzz ? People have to justify their experience so they make up some age oriented fraility. I suppose I can't see IR because my vision is faulty ?

I've heard buzzing on every single one I've been around.

I don't think it's because I'm younger, I think my hearing is just really tuned into that frequency of electronic buzzing as I'm constantly hearing and being annoyed by buzzing appliances etc. that my girlfriend and others don't hear. So I think they all buzz. Most people are just lucky enough to no hear it unless they get one that happens to buzz louder than average.

So for me, plasmas just suck as I can't live with buzzing that I always hear, and have to change my viewing habits to avoid IR since I like to leave ESPN on all the time, game for hours and hours etc. Which sucks as the PQ is second to none. But that's not a priority for me as more of an Average Joe TV users than a videophile, so I just give that up to avoid the buzzing and IR. Hopefully some new tech gives the best of both worlds and beats plasma PQ with no buzzing or IR worries.
post #770 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

I don't agree that some plasmas just don't buzz, but some are definitely worse than others. I am inclined to agree with you that it's probably not age related. The plasma buzzing is not really all that high pitched, it's not a sound that someone just wouldn't be able to hear even if it was present..

Like I said, the repair tech said he didn't hear it with a white slide up and no sound on--when even my girlfriend who isn't as sensitive to hearing it commented on how loud it buzzed on white slides and asked if it was normal.

I more felt he was just lying as they know they buzz and don't want to waste time and money replacing more than screws when they know it's not going to help most people who are annoyed by buzzing. The prior time I had a Vizio and the repair guy replaced boards etc. and didn't quiet it at all.

So unless someone got a truly defective one that was really buzzing extra loud, I think its more just a case that some people are very sensitive to hearing and being annoyed by buzzing and just never going to be able to live with a plasma because of it. Probably a very tiny minority of people, but sucks for those of us who can't find a plasma that doesn't drive us nuts with buzzing.
post #771 of 1548
How many times are you going to say the same thing over and over on every plamsa thread you can at some point ti becomes trolling plasma didnt work out for you i get that but time to move on
post #772 of 1548
I just got one of these. I have a question on one of the menu options: 3:2 Pulldown. What does it do? I know what 3:2 pulldown is, but considering this set is a 60Hz set, it doesn't make sense that turning it on or off would do anything. I noticed this option is only available on 1080i interlaced sources. Because of this, I have a feeling this might refer to 3:2 pulldown detection. Or in other words, inverse telecine. However, again, as this set s 60Hz, what's the point of an inverse telecine? It's just going to play back at 60Hz using a 3:2 pattern. Or is there some kind of voodoo going on that somehow allows the set to display 24p properly (outside of the flickery 48hz mode). Perhaps is this only used to make the motion smoother work better, by being able to detect the frame rate of the source? If so, I would then assume that it wouldn't matter what setting you use if you don't use the smoother, or if you douse the smoother, I'd assume you'd want it set to auto, as some 1080i material will be 60fps and some will be 24fps. Perhaps does it simply affect the deinterlacer, meaning on would deinterlace in a 3:2 pattern, essentially converting interlaced content to progressive? In that case, again I'd assume Auto would be a good setting. Can someone please figure out exactly what this option is used for? I searched through the thread and couldn't find any useful answers. Right now I set it to auto, but I'm still not sure what it does.

Also, if you're not planning to do any grey scale calibration, which color temperature setting gets you the best greyscale at default?
post #773 of 1548
Warm2 is usually the closet to 6500k
post #774 of 1548
Sorry, I'm not seeing these "Path Of Neo" settings. Anyone have them handy? Thanks for any help!
post #775 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by OmNomNomBrainz View Post

Sorry, I'm not seeing these "Path Of Neo" settings. Anyone have them handy? Thanks for any help!

I think they're listed in post 60, but those were pretty much the cinema mode defaults with contrast down to 78-88 and sharpness at 0, with all image processing off and the wider display modes.
post #776 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Only way to improve the 3d picture would be to calibrate that mode in the service menu of there are some settings in this thread that might work for you.

Does that mean if I do the SM adjustments I can actually get a 3D image which is close to the 2D image? I like the 2D image and would love to see that in 3D.
post #777 of 1548
Yes it should be much improved just make sute you are comfy with service menu before you attempt it
post #778 of 1548
Question, I see most recommend warm2 as preferred setting. However it looks yellowish to me. Is there any reason warm2 is preferred?
post #779 of 1548
I didn't mean to bash anyone and I apologize if it came out wrong. I meant to say as we age most people stop hearing the annoying mosquito-like sounds and even the most experienced technician in the world could not help fix an issue like this if he or she can't pick it up themselves.



I chose to use tape instead of hot glue or silicone caulking because of how easy it would be to remove should I have an issue within the warranty period. Looking at the specifications of the CBB21 capacitor model it seems that they have a very wide operating temperature range from -40C to above 85C so if there is any increase they should be fine.
post #780 of 1548
Ah, I see - thanks!

Anyone digging the "Path of Neo" settings?

I just got my 50UT50 today and I've been dicking around with it. Straight up standard mode with the defaults reset and then sharpness slammed to 0 is pretty impressive. I'm coming from another Panasonic plasma that's almost 5 years old and I spent waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much time playing around with the settings.
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