The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 27

warm2 is generally closest to the 6500k desired color temp

Ha, yeah, thanks for the warning, but that's shouldn't be a problem... my tinkering is usually at a lower level like hardware mods or firmware hacks. =)
That give me hope, I keep seeing full-hd 3D mentioned in the docs and product specs but can't help and think... nothing about this 3d image is hd quality, never mind full-hd. I'm serious when I say the LG passive sets have a better 3D image and I'm floored by this finding.

I haven't wired up the network so I don't know if I'm at the latest firmware. I'm hoping a later release is available...

Also have you tried a refresh rate of 48hz that mitigates crosstalk

Since I don't like the 48hz mode (insanely flickery for me) is there actually any benefit to sending a 24Hz signal to this TV?

Furthermore, if this TV is only 60Hz, how does it send a 3D signal? Doesn't it need 60Hz per eye, for 120Hz to do that? If that's the case why wouldn't they just allow a 5:5 pulldown (120Hz) 24p mode?

Also, how does 48Hz 3d mode work? Is it 24Hz per eye, or is it 48Hz per eye, or higher? I've seen people say they can't stand the 48Hz 2D mode, but for some reason they can tolerate it in 3D. Wouldn't be the same or worse flicker in 3D unless somehow it's outputting 144Hz (72Hz per eye) or higher?

Well I looked at my TV through my digital camera's viewfinder awhile back as we all know it will show things the eye can't see and my Ut50 looked as if it did refresh differently from 48hz to 48hz 3d. Also,you must remember that the glasses flicker aswell which is probably the reason the flicker is far less pronounced in 48hz 3d and much more tolerable. I will only watch 3d in 48hz and in custom as crosstalk is horrendous at 60hz and the brighter image of custom helps with ct aswell. When watching 3d you should also always have motion smoother set to strong and that is a proven fact and is part of 3d 101.

I think the benefit is the UT50 may do the 3:2 pulldown better than your source. I know from reviews of the U50 vs UT50, they said the UT50 handles 24p better. obviously not all 3:2 pulldowns are created equal.

I'm having a strange issue that's most notable during hockey on my 60UT50. Anyone seen this before?



The blue line and the red line go crazy when the camera pans. In this case from left to right on the pan, it shows a thin line of color next to the real line. I see it on my HTPC as well as over the air. I'm trying to figure out if it's a defect or a configuration or something.

Thanks!

Hopefully someone on here can help. I am trying to access Smart Viera via a TP-Link MR3020 wired connection. The router is configured OK, but I can't get the settings to give me access. Sometimes it fails on 'check for gateway connection' other times fails at 'check server connection for Viera connect'. Any advice on what settings I should be using for IP address; default gateway and DNS address?

How is it even possible to do 3:2 pulldown any different? It's literally just displaying one frame 3x, and then the next frame 2x, and repeating. Unless the UT50 is actually doing something else?

Coincidentally -- on the hockey front -- my UT50 has been exhibiting an intolerable amount of flickering with only bright white screens (and most notably hockey games with full ice views). It occurs on all settings (including a few that were suggested on AVS), swaps of HDMI cables, securing connections, eliminating CATS, eliminating room light and anything that was suggested by Panasonic's phone tech service.

Today, I returned the unit that I purchased on 2/7/13 and the new unit exhibits the same issue. The issue was even replicated on the returned TV with a movie about penguins at Best Buy.

I don't know, but there must be something different since CNET and others do a 24p test and the UT50 did very well, while other TVs don't do well on it.

does anyone have path of neo's settings for this model still avail? unless im missing something at the top of this thread its saying its under construction, i tried cnet's suggested and i find that a bit too dull for my tastes, thanks

Replying to myself... Looks like it was a de-interlacing issue. For whatever reason automatic de-interlacing on my HTPC was ruining hockey. I tried all the settings with the best being Bob.

Whatevs, looks good now. Thanks for taking a look.

]

It's good you got it fixed. When I first turned on my set there was a panoramic pan during gold rush and the pan was jerky the whole way. I thought crap. Then I went to the menus and turned off all those special motion features that I could. I didn't notice anything today with a full day of hockey on NBC. I was worried something was going to ruin this experience.

I've got a question for anyone with a Sony 590 bluray player. Do you have any issues with the TV turning on the bluray player all the time? If I go to youtube and come out the bluray starts up. If I enter a menu and exit the blu powers up. It's bugging me. So I turned off the viera link and guess what... then the sony wouldn't play 3d movies because it said the TV was not 3d. So, I turned vieralink back on and then the player was fine with the TV, but again it's turning on all the time when I don't want it to. I know someone else must have this setup, just curious what's the best way to configure it? I've pretty much given up hope of controlling the sony with the panny remote, not a big deal, but I do want 3d.

can someone post PathofNeo/RichB setting again please, I cant seem to find it. Thank

Well, if I recall, Neo's settings are dimmer than CNET's, so I'm not sure if that will help you.

These may be the settings...

PathofNeo

Calibration Results for a Dark Room

Picture mode - Custom

Contrast - 78 (76-82 is within ballpark but any higher will result in white clipping)
Brightness - 56 (D-Nice's ST30 reference is spot on)
Color - 48
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 0
Color Temp - Warm 2
Color Mgmt - Off
C.A.T.S. - Off
Video NR - Off

HDMI Settings

RGB Range - Auto
Content type - Graphics (probably the most important setting to change, colors too saturated left OFF/Auto)

Advanced

Block NR - Off
Mosquito NR - Off
Motion Smoother - Off (Weak showed little to no artifacts)
Black Level - Light
3:2 Pulldown – Auto

I couldn't see any change between Contrast 80-100, at least in Cinema mode.

I recently purchased a 55ut50 at Costco, brought it home and everything was great. I started to watch the various hockey games on the weekend and noticed this same flickering. I started to think I would have to return the set, but started to do some internet searches and found these same complaints going back several years. Most people think that it is just the nature of the strobes in the rinks and the flash photography? One guy I read about returned his set to BB and they just happened to be feeding in hockey and he saw it on every set!
I also observed this last night during the NBA all-star game. I was also watching plenty of other programing with ice, including a Top Gear episode where they were racing on ice and no flicker what so ever!

I would be interested to get the observations of other UT owners watching hockey.

-Rolf

Hello all!!

I'm a newbie here and just recently picked up my tcp50ut50. I am currently in the breaking in perios, however....when I run the white scrol bar I notice some fairly faint green tinge (blob?). This green is very hard to notice during regular viewing and does not show up during still slides (any colour) - it really (so far) is only noticeable withe the white MOVING scroll bar. I have contacted Future Shop and they will exchange it for me. Am I over reacting in getting this exchanged? Should I be happy that this green discolouration is 'hardly' noticeable - in other words, every tv has their own ticks and I should just be happy its not major??

Thank you in advanced!

.
Edited by bwar - 2/18/13 at 6:51pm

Seerden

This is normal in Standard mode (light flickering) especially when there are multiple camera's involved (ie hockey, basketball). In order for Panasonic to meet their Energy efficiency mark (to compete with LCD's) the Standard mode continuously lightens or more importantly diminishes the light (energy) on the screen, however it takes several seconds for this jump (up or down) to occur. During fast moving sporting events this up/down of light appears as flickering. For this reason I watch sporting events on Cinema mode...problem solved.

On my set, the flickering continues on Cinema...as well as all other presets and suggested settings that I have seen.

Here's a YouTube video from tonight's Calgary vs. Phoenix game. There are 3 flickers at the following marks -- :09, :12 and :20. At times, its much worse. Consider watching a hockey game with twice the amount of flicker seen in the video. At times, its better.
Edited by Rich Williams - 2/18/13 at 8:03pm

Those 3 instances are not flicker, those look to be the infamous "hockey flashes" that were discussed here several months ago. Several of us saw the same issue on various other brands and models, as well as on LCD TVs and even DLP TVs so it wasn't just with our Plasmas. The issue is apparently within the games' broadcasts and shows up on all TVs to some extent or another.

Search this forum for "Hockey Flash" and you'll find posts about it.

RandyWalters...

Any suggestions/ideas on my above situation?

why does everyone seem to pick warm2 on color temperature? makes everything look yellowish... I think normal looks best IMO

I keep my TV (Viera TC-P55UT50) hung in my room so its fairly dark all the time. Everyone that has laid eyes on my picture quality says WOOOOW i never thought plasmas looked SOOOO good. Again Im not discrediting anyone, all Im stating is that my settings seem to, perhaps work the best under my variables.

I have DirecTV and Netflix so my best picture quality is around 720p to 1080i. I have tried my bluray player from downstairs and looks astonishing. (Will buy a bluray player later)

This is what my settings are

Picture mode - Cinema

Contrast - 84
Brightness - 52
Color - 57
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 0
Color Temp - Normal
Color Mgmt - Off
C.A.T.S. - On (Does a good job keeping a good brightness balance when its either day or dark with lights on in my room)
Video NR - Off

Advanced
Block NR - Off
Mosquito NR - Off
Motion Smoother - Medium
Black Level - Dark (Makes the blacks look more solid and richer in color)
3:2 Pulldown – Auto


I believe this TV does an amazing job on 2D to 3D conversion, if settings are calibrated correctly.
I tried few settings around the forum and the internet but I found these settings to work best and bring the picture more real and popping since you have to wear shutter dark glasses to watch a picture, I decided to turn up the contrast and brightness and works well


Picture mode - (3D) Cinema

Contrast - 90
Brightness: 70
Color: 52
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Normal
Color Mgmt: Off
C.A.T.S. - Off
Video NR - Off


Advanced

Advanced
Block NR - Off
Mosquito NR - Off
Motion Smoother - Medium
Black Level - Dark
3:2 Pulldown – Auto


Now, Im still working on these settings but everything looks good so far... If you wanna give these settings a try and perhaps enhance them, please share them in here.
If you have any questions regarding why I chose a specific setting or something, feel free to ask

Must use light on dark level. You are crushing dark detail with dark setting. Also c.a.t.s. should be off otherwise it gets too dim. I agree with normal vs warm 2. I just don't see how everyone uses warm2....

but on light dark the blacks look really washed off.

I have cats because when im trying to sleep its too bright so i love how it dims when my lights are off

Hi, I also just picked up a 55UT50, but I seem to be having a problem with the 3D washing out the colors. When I switch to the 3D mode the display seems like it cranks the some brightness setting up to much. I know it's trying to compensate for the active shutter glasses, but even with the glasses on, the blacks aren't as deep as 2D and the colors are a washed out. Does this happen with any of your guys UT50's? Is there a way to fix this, maybe in the service menu? Thanks for your help.