The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 29

You realize any change you make to any cut or drive impacts the others and the drvs impact the cuts and vice versa ? Green has the most effect on gamma so hard telling where that is at now and the all values impact all red green and blue at the same time. In the end its your set do as you wish. If you're that confident in your methodology post this over on the display calibration forum and see what kind of responses you get. This has been attempted before here and the settings when measured with a meter where no where close to being accurate.

I know that they all affect each other. However, it looks quite close to my D65 calibrated monitor now, so I'd think it's close enough.

Although, honestly... the RGB cut/drive are so crude... you're probably going to be able to get somewhere near as close as you could with a meter with just test patterns... I thought the real point of the meter was to create ICC profiles.... I somehow doubt you really need a meter if you have the right test patterns to adjust just the crude RGB cut/drive settings. But to get really, really close... you need to have a set with the ISF menu or create an ICC profile... Then again I'm somewhat a noob at this. I just always think of the arcade machine test patterns which you used to adjust cut and drive and no one uses a meter to calibrate those.

I'm quite confident it's not terribly off. Again though, I guess we'll see when I get the meter.
Edited by damag0r - 2/20/13 at 5:24pm

I've given my two cents you don't seem interested in learning anything. I wish you luck with your meter calibration.

I'm plenty interested in learning, but you are just keep re-iterating that I need a meter to know for sure, and I already know that.

Hi chunon,

Do you know which settings in the service menu are for 3D? Is there a way to get to them, do you have to be in 3D mode when you start the service menu? Thanks.

All the service menu settings affect all modes so you need to pick a color temp just for 3d and then calibrate that temp with a meter and software

Technically shouldn't 3d be calibrated through the glasses? The glasses affect the color temp, which is why the default makes the temperature cooler in 3D mode, because the Panasonic glasses make the picture warmer.

Thanks for the answer chunon, I just have one more question. Do you know if there any settings that control the brightness or gamma in 3D other than in the regular picture settings menu on the TV? Thanks

Yes, and you need to make sure you are calibrating through the synced lens at the proper R/L frame.

I am flip flopping between the 60" TC-P60U50 and the 55" TC-P55UT50
I bought the 60" TC-P60U50 two weeks ago but can get the 55" TC-P55UT50 for the same price this weekend.
My kids want the 55" because of the 3D and Smart TV apps so I'm torn right now.
I could just buy a Roku and slap it on the 60" TV but lose out on the 3D.


So I have a few questions.


1) How good is the 3D with this set in comparison to 3D technology with TV (not with 3D theaters which is completely different)? Or is it just a gimmick?

2) Is the implementation of the 3D good enough to merit being 5" smaller than the TC-P60U50?

3) What about the Smart TV options? (ie: Netflix, Amazon VOD and DLNA)
Are those apps cumbersome and poorly implemented? Or do the have nice menus and easy navigation?


Thanks for any tips/advice.

I think the 3D implementation on the UT50 is pretty good. With active shutter glasses you get full HD 3D. But you should decide if it's something you're actually interested in. I used to think it was a stupid gimmick, and it kind of is, but I really like the depth it shows. But I'm also a geography graduate and aerial photos with a stereoscope has always been one of my favorite aspects of it. Netflix is better on my UT50 than it was on my Sony S580 BD player, but Amazon IV is better on the Sony BDP. I haven't found my watchlist on the UT50 for Amazon. I haven't used Hulu+ and I've registered with VUDU but haven't watched anything yet. Entering your user name and password is annoying with the remote, but actually browsing isn't too bad. It's when you have to enter text that it gets annoying. If there's a keyboard solution I would suggest that and also be interested to learn about it. If you like 3D movies then I think it may be worth the switch. If those 5 inches are more important, depending on how far you sit from the TV, maybe consider the price of the 60" UT50. If you upgrade to a UT50 then you do save money by not buying a ROKU, and also, if you have/get a 3D BDP then you'll have another option for streaming app interfaces if you don't get a Panasonic player. Note that in the series discussion, I learned you need to download/manually add VUDU to the app list, if you didn't know (like me).

there are 2 iPhone apps for Viera Remote; both have a KEYBOARD; I assume they are available for other smart phones, too...

http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/tv/vremote/index.html

http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/tv/index.html

Just got home from Costco with my new 55UT50. I'm debating if I should put it in a room and break it in. I figured to leave my 60" samsung on my media center for now. Is it necessary to get that 100 hrs before using anikun07 settings?

I would stay with conservative settings for the first 100 hours or so, how you choose to get there is up to you

I've just finished calibrating the TV with my AVS AVCHD rec 709 disc played by my Panasonic DMP-BDT220. The previous calibration was still acceptable, which was done using the TV's built in media player. Many of you complained that the darkest blacks had too much red, and as you can see in the chart, it's true. But that was a result of how the UT50 (mine at least) calibrates. The decision is between calibrating at 30% gray, typically recommended, or 10% which would alleviate the red in the low end.

Previous Calibration (UT50 Media Player)



Current New Calibration (BDT220)



New CMS Charts - Colors are still pretty accurate


The settings for these new charts are these:
R-Cut 70 (-16 clicks from default)
G-Cut 67 (-25 clicks from default)
B-Cut 6E (-18 clicks from default)
R-Drv F4 (-11 clicks from default)
G-Drv FF (Unchanged)
B-Drv 97 (+23 clicks from default)

All-Cut 70 (Automatically changes)
All-Drv FF (Unchanged, but would automatically change)

Contrast: 88
Brightness: 48 (Based on Target Y fL)
Color: 48


I also re-calibrated 3D with the blu ray player to further tweak it. Again, I re-purposed the "Cool" color temp setting for 3D.

The old calibration had a lot of red push in the high end so I needed to reduce that.



The new 3D calibration is much better.



New 3D CMS Chart



The new 3D calibration settings are these (using Cool setting):
R-Cut 78 (-8 clicks from default)
G-Cut 6E (-18 clicks from default)
B-Cut 6C (-20 clicks from default)
R-Drv ED (+5 clicks from default)
G-Drv FF (Unchanged)
B-Drv 91 (-89 clicks from default)

All-Cut 78 (Automatically changes)
All-Drv FF (Unchanged, but would automatically change)

Contrast: 90
Brightness: 58 (based on meter target Y fL)
Color: 48


I didn't go fully by the basic test patter for brightness, I went with the meter and it's target brightness based on Y Max. So if you look at these settings with that chart, you may see that it doesn't necessarily match. But I did check the 2D calibration with the color ramps and everything looks good with those. All Delta-E values are under the ideal 3.0 so the inaccuracies should be imperceptible.

Go ahead and try them out if you want. I hope you guys like them and think they look better than before. Just in time for the weekend, too!
Edited by anikun07 - 2/25/13 at 8:06pm

I don't even own a UT50, but great stuff anikun!

Haha, Thanks!

Aikun have you tried chads 4% windows? He swears by them for plasma calibration

No, I haven't. I used the window patterns on the AVS 709 disc. For the 3D it probably wouldn't work well because it's a non contact calibration. But I bet 4% is great for getting true Y Max values. I haven't really explored the 709 disc, but I don't recall 4% windows. I would guess that I would need a pattern generator for that.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1445226/chad-bs-custom-test-patterns

No he did them as .png files, I couldn't figure out how to get them to a disc but someone on the cal forum converted them to mkv files and I have them on a usb stick. The advantage of the smaller windows is it helps avoid triggering abl and you end up with a pretty good cal There is also a gcd disc that has smaller patterns as well. Just food for thought

Here's the link in the calibration forum:

Oh, okay, Thanks. I'll consider running that the next time I calibrate.

No prob enjoy the new cal

Thanks anikun07!

Just came back from a local Bestbuy.
I wanted to see how Active 3D vs Passive 3D looked.
I liked the Active 3D much more than Passive.
With Passive, I could see "missing" lines? Not sure what to call it.
With the Active glasses, the picture seemed more true to HD. Meaning, the picture was more "clear" and full, not missing lines compared to the passive glasses used.

Can you choose which glasses to use on the TC-P55UT50 or is it active only?

active ONLY; the passive glasses will NOT work; have heard you can use the new, and less expensive Samsung glasses though

Think of active 3D as progressive, like 1080p, and passive as 1080i. Passive 3D has to alternate lines to create left and right images so it's basically 540p. I see the same thing you do with passive during motion.

Since getting my 42UT50 in early January (some smaller stores here in Canada still had them), I have slowly been reading through the posts on here and falling in love with the TV (Thanks to all the contributors by the way)

Everything has been working great, until yesterday so I am seeing if anyone has any ideas or solutions...

My audio on HDMI port 1 has stopped working. I cannot hear any audio through my optically connected (using TV optical output) sound system, nor when I turn on my speakers on the TV...

HDMI 2 seems to be fine... has a blu-ray plugged in... but when I swap inputs, the blu-ray audio doesn't work and cable box does... so it seems to be isolated to HDMI 1.

The issue first happened while I was 'playing' with the audio settings on my cable box, when I switched audio out from stereo to surround (I recently got the external sound system). The moment I made the change in the cable box menu, the audio stopped working. Switched it back to stereo... didn't help. Could this have messed up an HDMI port that badly... seem unlikely but who knows...

I only have one optical input on the sound system, but two sources, so sending audio directly to sound system for both sources is not an option.

Has anyone heard of an issue like this before? Service call looming?

Edit... Looks like the tv was just 'bunged up'... A reset to factory default has resolved the issue. Gotta love when you figure it out not long after asking someone for help hey?
Edited by ryandusyk - 2/23/13 at 11:13am

Nice work, Anikun! I'm curious if you could translate this into +/- clicks so that I could see how it comes out on my TV. I'd appreciate it so much!

good of you to come back and post the solutiion, in case anyone else has your problem

The new settings look just as good as your previous ones Anikun! Perhaps even a little more pop than before. Very nice.


The new 3D settings are used under Cinema mode and with the Cool temp right? I forgot if I need to play 3D content when entering them too. Maybe I should write these things down...

I'm going to bring back the hockey flash discussion... I'm really curious why people are saying this isn't photography related? I was just watching the Lightning/Canes game and notice the flashes. Then I started to pay attention to what's happening. And it really seems it may be due to the photogs in the arena.

What I saw tonight seems to confirm that it's related to flashes. I only saw it happening during action, never during the bench shots, after the whistle or during face offs. I also noticed two photograhers between the benches and 4 or more along the boards in the corners. I did see the center ice guys with cameras up as play was passing through the neutral zone and didn't see a flash while they had cameras down.

I've been to a 20 years of hockey games and I've always noticed the flashes during the games. But I also remember on game in particular, it was a game where SI was in the house. That's extreme it was very interesing to see, the amount of equipment they used was more than I had ever seen used. They had so many flashes that when they took a shot the entire ice surface was blasted with an incredible amount of light. The local newspaper guys aren't so bad, I don't recall them rigging up in the rafters. But the hockey card photographers had configurations similar to what SI used. I may record this and check with a RPTV to just rule out the playback side. But I really think it's a photographer's flash.