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The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 30

post #871 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff D View Post

I'm going to bring back the hockey flash discussion... I'm really curious why people are saying this isn't photography related? I was just watching the Lightning/Canes game and notice the flashes. Then I started to pay attention to what's happening. And it really seems it may be due to the photogs in the arena.

What I saw tonight seems to confirm that it's related to flashes. I only saw it happening during action, never during the bench shots, after the whistle or during face offs. I also noticed two photograhers between the benches and 4 or more along the boards in the corners. I did see the center ice guys with cameras up as play was passing through the neutral zone and didn't see a flash while they had cameras down.

I've been to a 20 years of hockey games and I've always noticed the flashes during the games. But I also remember on game in particular, it was a game where SI was in the house. That's extreme it was very interesing to see, the amount of equipment they used was more than I had ever seen used. They had so many flashes that when they took a shot the entire ice surface was blasted with an incredible amount of light. The local newspaper guys aren't so bad, I don't recall them rigging up in the rafters. But the hockey card photographers had configurations similar to what SI used. I may record this and check with a RPTV to just rule out the playback side. But I really think it's a photographer's flash.


I agree that it's the photography also, what else would it be? What's happening is the flash quickly lights up the screen, and the effect witnessed is the ABL quickly dimming the screen during the flash. This makes the flash a lot more distracting than it would be on an LED TV for instance.
post #872 of 1548
Ok, I've now got proof... it's photographer's flash. Look at the following pictures:



Here's what to look at...
Notice the difference in lighting between the two. The first is the staduim lighting, the second one has a blue cast throughout.
While that's interesting it's not the smoking gun, to see this check out the shadows on the ice.
Look at the Canes winger (in black) coasting through the face off circle.
In the second picutre you can clearly see a shift in is shadows from overhead to longer toward the camera, the flash is position almost directly across the ice from the camera.
The "hockey flash" I'm seeing is, without a doubt, from flash photography. I'm not sure why there are some many flashes during this game, but there's a lot of photos being taken.
post #873 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealjustin View Post

The new settings look just as good as your previous ones Anikun! Perhaps even a little more pop than before. Very nice.


The new 3D settings are used under Cinema mode and with the Cool temp right? I forgot if I need to play 3D content when entering them too. Maybe I should write these things down...

No, there is no 3D mode for white balance. You just use a color temp you're not using and set it for 3D. You have to take the 3D readings in 3D then enter the service menu, which reverts back to 2D, enter your best guess of what to change, then turn the TV off and take readings again. smile.gif
post #874 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

I agree that it's the photography also, what else would it be? What's happening is the flash quickly lights up the screen, and the effect witnessed is the ABL quickly dimming the screen during the flash. This makes the flash a lot more distracting than it would be on an LED TV for instance.

Ha, I guess that's the disadvantage of having a responsive display...
post #875 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by SanchoPanza View Post

active ONLY; the passive glasses will NOT work; have heard you can use the new, and less expensive Samsung glasses though cool.gif

No, which ones are they? Do you have a link? I'd like to check them out.

You guys are really tempting me to switch over to TC-P55UT50... redface.gif
I really liked the Active 3D look when I demoed it at Bestbuy vs the Passive 3D.

Oh, and 1 last question.

On my TC-P60U50, I use 24P via XBMC and it looks/works pretty good. To me the picture seems more natural and has more "depth" for a lack of a better word.
But in certain scenes I can see some flickering.
How well implemented is 24P on the TC-P55UT50? Is the flickering really noticeable?
post #876 of 1548
After using the BDT220 for two days, I'm going to be returning it after my S590 arrives from Amazon.com. Certain things about the Panasonic I don't like so I'd rather have the Sony. I'll do some readings with it after it arrives but I don't expect to need to make any changes but I guess I'll find out.
post #877 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

After using the BDT220 for two days, I'm going to be returning it after my S590 arrives from Amazon.com. Certain things about the Panasonic I don't like so I'd rather have the Sony. I'll do some readings with it after it arrives but I don't expect to need to make any changes but I guess I'll find out.

That's interesting, I was toying with the idea of doing exactly the opposite. Even though I have harmony remotes I like that you can control the blu through the tv remote. But with the S590 I had to disable viera link (which does control the 590 well) because if viera link is enabled the 590 keeps turning on whenever I do anything with the TV other than turing it on. If I got into the menus and come out, 590 powers up. It just happens that my setup allows this message to get to the 590.

I'd be itnterested in what you decide.
post #878 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff D View Post

Ha, I guess that's the disadvantage of having a responsive display...

No, that's the disadvantage of having ABL unfortunately. biggrin.gif
post #879 of 1548
I thought so but wasn't sure. Thanks for clarifying!
post #880 of 1548
look this up on Amazon; I've NOT tried them: Samsung SSG-4100GB 3D Active Glasses 2012 Models - Black
post #881 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff D View Post

That's interesting, I was toying with the idea of doing exactly the opposite. Even though I have harmony remotes I like that you can control the blu through the tv remote. But with the S590 I had to disable viera link (which does control the 590 well) because if viera link is enabled the 590 keeps turning on whenever I do anything with the TV other than turing it on. If I got into the menus and come out, 590 powers up. It just happens that my setup allows this message to get to the 590.

I'd be itnterested in what you decide.

I already ordered the S590 so it should be here Tuesday or Wednesday. I have an S580 and I expect it to be mostly the same. Two things that I like about the S580 are when I chapter skip I don't get the 1080 24p window in the top corner, and I can turn off the players LCD display when playing movies. There are probably settings but I don't know where they are on the BDT220 that when I put in a disc and tell it to play it goes straight to the movie, no menu, and when the movie ended it just started playing it from the beginning. I keep all HDMI CEC turned off and have my Harmony remote handle everything because between the TV, BDP, and AVR, there was too much conflict with trying to turn one thing on and other things turn on that shouldn't. Also, the Amazon I.V. has 5.1 for the Sony and a watchlist. I mostly watch Netflix, but there are some things Amazon has that Netflix doesn't. It's mostly little things like that that make we want the Sony. I think it's also the fact that I'm familiar with the S580 so the S590 will be familiar too.
post #882 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by SanchoPanza View Post

look this up on Amazon; I've NOT tried them: Samsung SSG-4100GB 3D Active Glasses 2012 Models - Black

They work just fine, we have a pair, along with two Panasonic pairs. My SO like the Samsung ones more because they fit over her prescription glasses better than the Panasonic ones do. And for 1/4 the price they get you the same 3D.
post #883 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by SanchoPanza View Post

look this up on Amazon; I've NOT tried them: Samsung SSG-4100GB 3D Active Glasses 2012 Models - Black

Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

They work just fine, we have a pair, along with two Panasonic pairs. My SO like the Samsung ones more because they fit over her prescription glasses better than the Panasonic ones do. And for 1/4 the price they get you the same 3D.

Wow, that is a great price for active 3D.
Well, I guess I'm off to Costco today to buy the TC-P55UT50.

Between the well implemented 3D, the affordable Active 3D Samsung Glasses, Netflix and all of the tweaking options over the TC-P60U50, I'm sold.
I'll have to adjust to the 5" difference but I think all the aforementioned pro's will make it worth it.

Thanks Sancho and anikun07 for all the information, you guys have been a great help. smile.gif
I'll be back to use the settings from this thread biggrin.gif
post #884 of 1548
If you think it's noticeably smaller, just sit closer. wink.gif
post #885 of 1548
My local Sam's Club had the Sony BX59 in stock so I cancelled my order on Amazon.com. Sam's had a better price, too, so even better. If I have time today I will take readings and see how it compares. It could be my imagination but I think blu-ray looks better on a standalone player than my PC.
post #886 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

I already ordered the S590 so it should be here Tuesday or Wednesday. I have an S580 and I expect it to be mostly the same. Two things that I like about the S580 are when I chapter skip I don't get the 1080 24p window in the top corner, and I can turn off the players LCD display when playing movies. There are probably settings but I don't know where they are on the BDT220 that when I put in a disc and tell it to play it goes straight to the movie, no menu, and when the movie ended it just started playing it from the beginning. I keep all HDMI CEC turned off and have my Harmony remote handle everything because between the TV, BDP, and AVR, there was too much conflict with trying to turn one thing on and other things turn on that shouldn't. Also, the Amazon I.V. has 5.1 for the Sony and a watchlist. I mostly watch Netflix, but there are some things Amazon has that Netflix doesn't. It's mostly little things like that that make we want the Sony. I think it's also the fact that I'm familiar with the S580 so the S590 will be familiar too.

What's the amazon I.V. (internet video?) Watchlist sounds nice, I've never seen that on the 590. I've been surprised by performance of Amazon video on the panny, but find it easier to search on the PC and then try to locate it on the TV. The panny's dynamic ordering of time when paging through the available titles is annoying.

Is the BX59 the custom numbering of a 590 with hdim cable that you often find at sam's/costco/bj's?
post #887 of 1548
So I'm assuming crosstalk is an issue of the glasses being slightly off sync with the tv? Why don't glasses (or tvs) include a slider that allows you to make micro adjustments to the timing of the sync? Either that, or adjustments to the shutter duration? I'm guessing the reason crosstalk is eliminated in 48Hz mode is because the glasses shutter is only open for 1/60th of a second (60Hz), not leaving enough margin to cross over to the next frame.
post #888 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff D View Post

What's the amazon I.V. (internet video?) Watchlist sounds nice, I've never seen that on the 590. I've been surprised by performance of Amazon video on the panny, but find it easier to search on the PC and then try to locate it on the TV. The panny's dynamic ordering of time when paging through the available titles is annoying.

Is the BX59 the custom numbering of a 590 with hdim cable that you often find at sam's/costco/bj's?

Yeah, Amazon Instant Video, I find it easier just to abbreviate it with I.V. The BX-59 is the club store's version of the S590 and the only main difference is they include composite RCA cables and an HDMI cable in the box. Yes, I find it easier to find movies online rather than searching on the TV/BDP for it. It's too much of a pain to "type" in a title, especially if it's longer. I typically check Amazon or Netflix if a title is available through their service and then I with NF I can add it to instant queue. The Amazon I.V. app on my Sony players has the option of a watch list so I don't have to browse through the pages to find what I was watching previously.


On another note, a good note, the S590 gave the exact same readings as the BDT220 so I didn't have to make any changes. I didn't check 3D because 2D readings were so good. So if you want to use my settings, the the previously listed ones. I think they are much better than my older ones.
post #889 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post

So I'm assuming crosstalk is an issue of the glasses being slightly off sync with the tv? Why don't glasses (or tvs) include a slider that allows you to make micro adjustments to the timing of the sync? Either that, or adjustments to the shutter duration? I'm guessing the reason crosstalk is eliminated in 48Hz mode is because the glasses shutter is only open for 1/60th of a second (60Hz), not leaving enough margin to cross over to the next frame.

I don't know if it's an issue with syncing, I thought it was an issue of R/L frame not quite lining up in stereo.
post #890 of 1548
If anyone was curious, I deduced the click amounts for Anikun's latest calibration (hopefully with success, haha). This, of course, being compared to his factory WB setup for the warm settings.

R-Cut / -16 clicks
G-Cut / -25 clicks
B-Cut / -18 clicks

R-Drv / -11 clicks (not -2 like I originally calculated. Oops!)
G-Drv / Untouched
B-Drv / +23 clicks

All-cut and all-drv set automatically.

For me, the image looks great, however it still isn't perfect without a meter - which we all know will always be the case. There's still a slight tint of red on the dark grays but I can live with it for the sake of a solid color pop at the other points in the spectrum. It's definitely a step up from the original calibration for me! Thanks again Ani for sharing your work with us biggrin.gif
Edited by joeyohhh - 2/27/13 at 2:48pm
post #891 of 1548
Thanks for figuring out the number of clicks. I forgot about that part. tongue.gif
post #892 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

I don't know if it's an issue with syncing, I thought it was an issue of R/L frame not quite lining up in stereo.

Well better convergence of the subject you're focusing on helps eliminate crosstalk, but the reason you're seeing it is because part of the right eye image is leaking into the left eye glass, and vice versa. If the timing was better (probably just a 1-2 ms off), this wouldn't happen. Likewise, if the shutter speed was shorter (60Hz is 16ms, so perhaps a shutter of 15ms or 14ms) then the left eye would be open for less time, therefore not being able to cross over into the right eye image. Of course this would also result in a darker image, so that's a tradeoff.

I think this could be fixed without sacrificing brightness by a slider either on the tv or glasses that allowed micro adjustments (+/- 0.5 ms) to the timing of the sync. One could simply make adjustments until crosstalk is least noticeable.
post #893 of 1548
Think of it like this:



As you can see, if the glasses are just slightly off sync, then part of the wrong image hits the wrong eye during each shutter. If the sync could be adjusted, this could be eliminated.
post #894 of 1548
Have any of you guys noticed white vertical bars going from the top to bottom on your TV? I just noticed one on the right side of my TV (TC-P55U50) while using those color slides to break it in. Thanks
post #895 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by RugerRell View Post

Have any of you guys noticed white vertical bars going from the top to bottom on your TV? I just noticed one on the right side of my TV (TC-P55U50) while using those color slides to break it in. Thanks

It's normal to see that on certain networks/shows if you're using an aspect view with no over scan, but I don't know why you would be seeing it with a colored slide.
post #896 of 1548
Just got back from Costco today and setup our new TC-P55UT50 and my family really loves all the smart options (netflix, amazon, weather, etc...)

Now, before we put any heavy use on it, is there anything I should do?
Do I need to do any break-in procedures or are these new plasma's ready to use without any break-in required?
post #897 of 1548
After trying the new settings I went back to the previous ones for now. The color seemed to pop more but the deep blacks didn't seem as deep. Is this possible?
post #898 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealjustin View Post

After trying the new settings I went back to the previous ones for now. The color seemed to pop more but the deep blacks didn't seem as deep. Is this possible?


I don't know, but it is calibrated a littlest darker to follow "target Y fL." You can check your brightness, if you follow the brightness pattern you'll want to turn it up but it needed to be somewhere like +56 to be able to see line 17 flashing, but the flashing bars did appear gray instead of red.
post #899 of 1548
Thanks for this Anikun, the magenta blacks were always a concern for me, and I have a DMP-BDT220 player too, so these settings will be perfect. I was a little rusty when I went into the service menu, got lost for a minute. Be careful in that service menu, it is not very user friendly, though thankfully I didn't change anything I didn't intend to.
post #900 of 1548
Checked out the new settings on Fast Five, and I like what I see, the magenta issue seems to be resolved. Thanks again Anikun!
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