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The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 4

post #91 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by slclem001 View Post

I just powered up my new 55UT50. The picture mode is on standard, too dark. I see settings listed for a dark room. We will probably not ever watch tv in a dark room. What are recommended settings moderate to low lighting? Thanks.

I watch the tele in a moderate to dim room, sometimes turning the lights off for the "theatre" effect. I find @pathofNeo's settings just fine (first post in thread). Plasma tend to be darker than LED anyway but you get used to it. His settings def make the images pop - esp. in 1080i,/HDTV channel/and source is filmed in HD. Otherwise, anything different the plasma will show the image as crap. Sucks cause you have to keep flipping through the remote until you hit those sources (channels that have those features). You find 90% of channels aren't HD let alone source images that arent taped in HD either... grrrr. Anyway good luck.
post #92 of 1548
Thanks for the comments. Last night I used the settings you mentioned. My TV simply looks great. I have been reluctant to purchase plasma for several reason one of which was the glare issue. I have had a RPCRT with glass front for 8 years. My living room has moderate lighting. This plasma performs so well in day time and night. I am very satisfied. I am very glad I purchased plasma.
post #93 of 1548
Thanks for the comments. Last night I used the settings you mentioned. My TV simply looks great. I have been reluctant to purchase plasma for several reason one of which was the glare issue. I have had a RPCRT with glass front for 8 years. My living room has moderate lighting. This plasma performs so well in day time and night. I am very satisfied. I am very glad I purchased plasma.
post #94 of 1548
Has anyone dealt with a high level of green on the UT50 (I have the 60")? I noticed it in the second episode of Band of Brothers as the planes fly through the clouds. They were a ghoulish green in many areas. I checked the gray ramp, and there is definitely alot of green.
I have made adjustments in the SM, but I have no meter. So I'm just experimenting at this point. Are there general rules for reducing certain colors, or is it as simple as dropping the drive/cut for a specific color?

If someone has made adjustments using a meter, I would be most appreciative to know the results, and would send good karma their way...
post #95 of 1548
Try adjusting tint or color slightly. Your display may lean toward green and tint may fix that but check your red tones afterwards. Otherwise it may be your white balance and it just leans toward green. I haven't felt like I've noticed this. I think I've posted the default values my tv came with a couple pages back. But like others have said, white balance is purely TV specific and might look worse on someone's else's display.
post #96 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thermoform View Post

Has anyone dealt with a high level of green on the UT50 (I have the 60")? I noticed it in the second episode of Band of Brothers as the planes fly through the clouds. They were a ghoulish green in many areas. I checked the gray ramp, and there is definitely alot of green.
I have made adjustments in the SM, but I have no meter. So I'm just experimenting at this point. Are there general rules for reducing certain colors, or is it as simple as dropping the drive/cut for a specific color?
If someone has made adjustments using a meter, I would be most appreciative to know the results, and would send good karma their way...

Without a meter you are chasing ghosts sadly, I would recommend sticking with the controls in the user menu.
post #97 of 1548
Thanks for the dark room settings.

Does anyone have recommended settings for a bright room?
post #98 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Without a meter you are chasing ghosts sadly, I would recommend sticking with the controls in the user menu.

I've found the color clipping, and gray ramps on the AVSHD709 really handy. But a meter would be nice for sure...I find warm2 makes whites reddish, so at the moment I'm making adjustments based on how warm1 looks in custom.
post #99 of 1548
Thread Starter 
*** UPDATE - D-NICE CALIBRATED MY UT50 - CHECK THE FIRST POST ***
Edited by PathofNeo - 9/30/12 at 11:18pm
post #100 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathofNeo View Post

*** UPDATE - D-NICE CALIBRATED MY UT50 - CHECK THE FIRST POST ***

Thanx. Updated the UT50 to D-Nice settings. Def. more pop to image under cinema mode. However, that 88 contrast is too high for my taste. I realize that's what makes the image "pop" for this set. Lowered to 85. Noticed others have similar settings to D-Nice +/- coupla points for each setting. I find at 83 contrast is when the image starts to pop. Higher than 85, the image starts to lose some detail in brightly lit scenes.
Edited by aznnorth - 10/1/12 at 6:34am
post #101 of 1548
I did have to drop brightness to 47 with contrast at 88, but with test patterns I only can get the bars down to 243 and I can see 245 with contrast at 88.
post #102 of 1548
Thread Starter 
Guys I posted pictures in the main thread comparing my Kuro to it. The Cinema/Auto combo is the way to go.
Edited by PathofNeo - 10/2/12 at 11:16am
post #103 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathofNeo View Post

Guys I posted pictures in the main thread comparing my Kuro to it. These are with the new settings so yes they can AND SHOULD be used for film as well. If you feel like it's too much contrast then dial it down but STOP using custom!

You edited under D-Nice settings the color/brightness is not proper for film... that contradicts your statement above. Can you then post what his settings would be for film/tv?? Thanx in advance. wink.gif
post #104 of 1548
I'm coming from a 34" Panasonic HD CRT and I haven't bought a TV in over 10 years so you can imagine how happy I am with my 50" UT50. I was wondering Neo if you calibrated the GAME picture mode or do you strictly use CINEMA while gaming? I'm looking for a good starting point, I play a lot of FPS and the added lag though slight from CINEMA makes my games feel a little floaty. Also, think you Neo for taking the time to post your settings I really appreciate it.

LB
post #105 of 1548
Thread Starter 
I use Cinema by default since now I know it offers the best gamma. I don't mind the lag but then again I have the 42" so you have to take that into account. I can feel the difference between it and my 50" Kuro.. and even bigger with the 55VT50. So it's tolerable for me.

Something I've been meaning to do all along is calibrate the Game, Cinema, and Custom mode for you guys and this will possible now that I have a reference to measure with my Disney Wow disk. Just hang tight fellas!
post #106 of 1548
Hello, I'm new to the site and going to pick up my TC-P50UT50 in a hour.
There are lots of variations of the suggested settings in on this thread..... where should I start.

D-Nice's settings are for gaming but they work just as well for Movies (Is that correct?)
Neo you changed your settings from custom to cinema right? can someone copy paste exactly which one I should use/start with.

Much appreciated!

P.s. I plan on doing a 100-200hr session with the Breakin DVD I downloaded. My last panasonic plasma was ruined from image retention in less than a year.... i never broke it in
post #107 of 1548
For the best film/movie picture reproduction use cinema picture mode, it has the most accurate gamma setting. For your new plasma it's best to watch full screen (1.78:1) material so all the pixels are being used. It's also important to keep in mind that if you're going to play games or watch TV channels with a watermark, like ESPN, you don't want to use vivid mode or crank contrast and brightness out of the box in order to minimize the possibility of image retention. The settings that Neo has in red are the "gaming" settings, but they should be pretty good out of the box. The first 100 hours your colors and such will shift as the phosphors become worn in, this is perfectly normal. The best thing you can do is to download and burn the AVSHD 709 .iso file (burned to a DVD for playback in a blu ray player) and use the basic settings pages. His TV was professionally calibrated so his settings may be different because his white balance is not default. But give 'em a try and see what you think. smile.gif
post #108 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

For the best film/movie picture reproduction use cinema picture mode, it has the most accurate gamma setting. For your new plasma it's best to watch full screen (1.78:1) material so all the pixels are being used. It's also important to keep in mind that if you're going to play games or watch TV channels with a watermark, like ESPN, you don't want to use vivid mode or crank contrast and brightness out of the box in order to minimize the possibility of image retention. The settings that Neo has in red are the "gaming" settings, but they should be pretty good out of the box. The first 100 hours your colors and such will shift as the phosphors become worn in, this is perfectly normal. The best thing you can do is to download and burn the AVSHD 709 .iso file (burned to a DVD for playback in a blu ray player) and use the basic settings pages. His TV was professionally calibrated so his settings may be different because his white balance is not default. But give 'em a try and see what you think. smile.gif
Thanks for the tips I'll definitely give this a try.

The AVSHD 709 is more for calibration correct? The break in Dvd I downloaded online is a series of colors that play in a loop...
It was suggested that I let it play continuously for the first 100 hours or so before use.
Is this still suggested?

Sounds like Neo is onto some very useful information... can't wait for the update biggrin.gif
post #109 of 1548
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NM31 View Post

The break in Dvd I downloaded online is a series of colors that play in a loop...
It was suggested that I let it play continuously for the first 100 hours or so before use.
Is this still suggested?

You can but you don''t HAVE TO. The benefit of running the slides is that it ages the phosphors evenly and prevents you from having anamorphic bars during the first 100 hours of your panel's life (which is critical. You don't want to be chasing image retention forever, so it's not a bad idea to use it. But I didn't run the panel prep slides since it only really applies to D-Nice's settings. So in this case it isn't mandatory. Instead what I did was set THIS on loop using my media player for 48 hours followed by the pixel flipper on the Disney WOW disc for the next 48 hours. I then watched about 50 hours worth of tv and films that have NO ANAMORPHIC BARS (top or side) followed by another 24 hours of the clip/flipper (12 hours each). The burn-clip is a great way to prevent retention on a plasma and the flipper rids it, so I used them both as a 50/50 cocktail. I've never had retention on any of my plasmas except my original Pioneer Elite (bought in 2000) but I wasn't aware of these things then. I still have that plasma and can see every penny of burn-in on it (and trust me it cost a penny). Unfortunately it's a nasty side effect of plasma, but there's ways to prevent/counteract it.
post #110 of 1548
I just want to chime in and say that Neo's new settings rock and that since getting my replacement UT50 from Panasonic, I've watched about five 2.35:1 movies within the first 100-120 hours of owning the set and haven't had any image retention. But for the first 50-60 hours, I was pretty cautious, then I just got tired of being cautious and decided to watch whatever I wanted to watch. I'm not going to do a LOTR marathon anytime soon, but I wouldn't worry too much about black bars from BD's. smile.gif
post #111 of 1548
I just past the 100hr mark about 2 days ago. No IR at all for me. All I did was stay on full-screen hdtv channels producing 1080i images and sourced image was also hd. Mainly stayed on cartoon channels and PBS, lol. Switched channels often and stayed away from 4:3 images. Never watched a channel for more than 2 hrs in the beginning. Played a few blu ray movies and full trailer cd's. That's about it. Maybe it's also luck depending on what date of panel you got. Mine was mfg. july 2012 and got the set sept 19, 2012.
Edited by aznnorth - 10/3/12 at 9:36am
post #112 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

I did have to drop brightness to 47 with contrast at 88, but with test patterns I only can get the bars down to 243 and I can see 245 with contrast at 88.

You're right, tried your settings and pic looks ok. wink.gif Leaving it on with these settings until @pathofneo updates the UT50 for film/tv.
post #113 of 1548
The first few hours I watched content stretched or zoomed to fit but then decided to try and just watch 1.85:1 movies with overscan on. After that I just watched whatever movies. The only screen I have to worry about is the Sony blu ray player or Netflix menu of I get the program selected but don't start it yet. We don't watch cable or OTA channels so I don't have to worry about watermarks. I don't have time to play games much either, anymore, so HUDs aren't an issue either for me. I don't have any IR after about 110 hours.
post #114 of 1548
Thread Starter 
I put the UT through the ringer last night and came to this conclusion... good news and not so good news.

Good news - Professionally calibrated our UT50s are almost matchless.
Bad news - Their tricky sob's to work with and require balancing done in the sm for the above statement to be true.

My setup was simple. I used the PS3 on my Kuro/VT50 for playback of the Disney WOW disc next to my UT50 which was hooked up to my Dune Player 3.0 with an ISO (used Imageburn) of the same disc. I reversed the connections to verify no mistakes. Try as I might.. I couldn't get the cinema mode with stock rgb values to match either the Kuro or VT50. So I can see why one might prefer the custom mode over cinema without the white balance.

But I should note that while the custom mode seems offer extra dimension.. your blacks are getting crushed and just plain absent! Even with stock rgb values I notice this. I tested many films last night and one I like for black detail is Men in Black 3. The black detail in their suits are just absent in custom no matter what you try. You can check this for yourself if you like. But the reality is that with all things equal (using Disney disc) the brightness pattern tells the tale. Custom can't show less than 2% detail in black while cinema has 0% lit ever so slight. If I go and change this so custom lights up with 0% black then whites clip. It's an ugly pattern that probably doesn't matter to the majority but now that I've had mine calibrated by D-Nice I can tell you it makes ALL the difference. This is the reason cinema didn't 'pop' before. Not only am I seeing a large amount of detail on both the high and low end, but the image is near 3D. You may feel as if custom mode offers a 3D image but it's robbing you blind to achieve it.

It's the price we pay for our UTs. Let's face it.. the UT50 doesn't exactly break the bank and you get tremendous bang for your buck. But someone knowing what their doing needs to spend time with *your* set to maximize it's potential. Whereas on the other hand I simply copied D-Nice's settings from the get go 3 years ago on my Kuro and never looked back (used like that for 3 years). I feel like having my Kuro professionally calibrated gave me a marginal gain while it flipped my UT50 upside down. <----slight exaggeration but you know what I mean)

So what did I do? I ended up using the VT50 as reference to measure the UT50. It made more sense with them being the same brand, both 2012 line, 60hz, and now with it calibrated I felt it was more necessary to mirror this one. I got it as close as I could without butchering either end of the spectrum. It's still going to offer a more satisfying picture than my original custom values. If you want to continue using custom then I won't blame you but my opinion is that you need to start training your eye in the cinema mode. You think it's too dark? Bump the contrast a couple clicks. Otherwise it should be on point and you'll 100% be seeing more detail. Like what you see and want it even better? You can start by getting basic calibration discs ($20-30) or you can get a basic meter if you want to take it to the next level with a little learning curve. If you don't feel like doing that then you might consider paying the price to get someone with a good reputation to fix you up.
post #115 of 1548
any idea what the default service menu settings are? because the whites on my screen seem a little too warm i dont know what i done
post #116 of 1548
Thread Starter 
It may seem that way if your looking at an all white screen but not under normal conditions.
post #117 of 1548
Strange, I know I posted the defaults a few weeks back after I bought my UT50, but I can't find the post. Anyway, these are the factory settings for my TV's WB in the SM.

Vivid & Normal Color Temp

R-Cut: 80
G-Cut: 80
B-Cut: 80

R-Drive: F6
G-Drive: FF
B-Drive: B7 (80 for Warm Color Temp)

Alll Cut: 80
All Drive: FF
Edited by anikun07 - 10/3/12 at 4:19pm
post #118 of 1548
Thread Starter 
These are my factory SM Warm values..


R-Cut: 80
G-Cut: 80
B-Cut: 80

R-Drive: ED
G-Drive: FF
B-Drive: 81

Alll Cut: 80
All Drive: FF
Edited by PathofNeo - 10/4/12 at 7:17am
post #119 of 1548
ah thanks i think the main problem was the b drive it was far off b7 soon as i switched it to that the colors looked more naturally white instead of warm because before it was asif my normal setting was not far off warm setting oh and just wondering know a good setting for xbox hdmi ? im in uk by the way so i have UK model no numbers on the setting bars which is stupid
post #120 of 1548
Just curious Neo were the largest changes in your SM to the R-Cut & B-Drv? I'm just trying to see if their is a pattern in the gray scale shift. D-Nice said the ST50's gray scale shifts red after the first 100 hrs. Thanks

Brightness (Blackpoint)............UK50”.............RichB 42””
(My 50"UT50 Factory)
R-Cut=80................................+9.....................+8
G-Cut=80.................................-2......................0
B-Cut=80.................................+2....................-6

Contrast (Whitepoint)
R-Drv=FF.................................-2......................-1
G-Drv=FF.................................-1.......................0
B-Drv=81.................................+4....................+16

All-Cut=80
All-Drv=FF
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