The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 31

Glad to hear it worked well for you!

Thanx for the "translation!" Anikun--could you please incorporate that in your settings post so that it's all in one place for easy reference?

I've been leaving my TV on for about 5+hrs/day on HD movies full screen with no static image on just to break it in. I'm curious as well as to what will happen if I decide to just put in anikuns settings without getting to 100+ hrs. I'm probably only at 25hrs or so in. I'm so anxious lol

The settings will still look better than what you have now, but they will look even better after 100 hours. The 100 hour mark is the minimum time needed before settings won't shift greatly, that's all.

Updated. I used Windows Calculator in programming mode to calculate the changes so they should be right. I added the number of clicks for 2D and 3D.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1412033/the-official-panasonic-ut50-settings-issues-thread/840#post_22999632

After some research, unfortunately, It seems to be called vertical banding and it is a screen uniformity defect. It's most noticable when there is a solid color (mostly dark grey) in the background on the right side of my screen. There seems to be quite a few people with this problem with the 2012 Panasonic Plasma's. I'm going to try to put 100-200 hours on my set to see if it goes away. Anyone in this thread have any problems like this with their UT50's? Thanks

Panasonic exchanged my 55st50 because of multiple vertical bands. I also had awful IR. It will not get better. I had over 1500hrs on mine. My bands were very bad and could be seen with regular content. My new 60ut50 hasn't developed any so far, and no IR to speak of. Of course, it did blow a buffer board two days into watching it. By the way, this is my fourth exchange.

Hey all...I've been researching so much on my UT50 it's a "50 that I just bought about 2 weeks ago and it's my first plasma. I pretty much have all the settings dialed in (Still need to change the service menu settings). Thanks so much to both Path Of Neo and Anikun07 for all the great knowledge . I've been looking and looking but still haven't found what the tv picture settings I should be using to play a game on the PS3 and Xbox 360? Would it be best to play under Cinema, Custom or Game Mode? And if Game Mode what are the settings I should be using? Should my Game mode settings be the same as Cinema or Custom, or should I leave the Game Mode settings at default? I know it's kind of a lengthy question thanks a lot to whoever can answer and for taking their time out for the question.

Just watched the latest Walking Dead episode in a pitch black room with Anikun's new settings, and I couldn't be happier. Magenta black problem is completely gone, blacks look darker and better than ever, almost blends in with the room in some scenes. The shadow detail is also better now that the red blacks don't distract anymore. Now I feel like I've squeezed every once of performance I can out of this TV. Guess I'm gonna have to get a darbee darblet next! Even my wife noticed the blacks were better, and she hates calibration because I won't shut up about it!

I had the same question when I got my set. I just ported over my Cinema settings to Game, although I believe Custom is what the Game mode is a copy of, plus the faster response time. For best calibration, I would say use the Custom settings on this forum. I use Cinema settings and the only difference is that it seems brighter than Cinema, and colors pop a little more.

I gotta say, now I feel like I'm really getting that 'plasma' experience that everyone talked about.

Hey Anikun, I was wondering if you could tell me how you had your panasonic 220 player set up, especially the HDMI settings, deep color and black level for the Ut50.

Thanks

I kept the picture mode on normal and turned off all other options (chroma, deep color, etc). I didn't really like it so I returned it, I only had it for 3 days or so. It's nice it has a lot of those picture setting options, but it also makes it easier to "ruin" the picture. I have a Sony BX-59 and like it a lot more even though it doesn't have those kinds of picture settings. I didn't dislike the Panasonic BDP because of the picture quality, though. I didn't like it because certain things annoyed me about it. I don't really like the Viera App page with the 9 tile layout, it's easier for me to navigate Sony's menu where I just click down a couple times and I'm on the streaming app that I want to use. There may have been a setting but I didn't see it for the OSD when the disc title changes or you skip a chapter and the signal info pops up in the corner. The third thing I didn't like on the Panasonic, that there probably is a setting for, is blu ray disc playback didn't go to the disc menu. The movie just starting playing if I had selected Play Movie form the disc menu. Then when the movie was finished it just started playing it again from the beginning. Like I said, these were just things that annoyed me and there are probably settings for some of the things. The other main issue I had is the Panasonic doesn't support Amazon I.V. 5.1 audio and there's no Slacker Radio (which I use on my phone but have yet to use on my BDP). Getting back to your main question, though, from what I read over on the BDT220 forum, just set the proper resolution/picture and audio (bitstream vs LPCM) and turn off the "Enhancements."

These are the settings I use for gaming...

Picture Mode GAME (It has the least amount of input lag)
Contrast ............85
Brightness ..........55
Color .................48
Tint ....................0
Sharpness.............0
Color Temp .........Warm 2 (Use what ever color temp you like for gaming)
Color Mgmt ..........OFF
CATS .................OFF
Aspect Adj ...........FULL/SIZE 2
Video NR .............OFF

HDMI Settings-RGB Range & Content Type
RGB Range
Auto (For the Xbox)
Standard (16-235) for the PS3
Content type: GRAPHICS (It gives you more shadow detail in GAME MODE making it more like CINEMA without the added latency)

Advanced Picture
Mosquito NR......... OFF
Black Level ...........LIGHT

I see a few faint vertical bands on my 50" UT but they are only barely visible on gray backgrounds like a cloudy sky. If you divide the screen into thirds, the bands on my set are located where the far left and middle sections meet.



I'm going to give the new settings another try tonight and monitor the black levels again.

I also have these bands, both vertical and horizontal, very very faint on light backgrounds, I think it is just inherent to these sets.

Hi Frank, When Panasonic exchanged your TV was it with a brand new one or a refurbished one? I'm trying to decide if I should return it to the store or just call Panasonic if it comes down to it. Thanks

Panasonic has you bring back the set to the dealer for an exchange. I chose a new ut rather than a floor model st. No new st were available. Its more or less like a credit. You choose from what's available. Upgrade if you want

Bravo Anikun,

Even though my 60ut50 doesn't quite have a 100hours on it, I decided to try your calibration settings including the WB.

Excellent.

Would I incorporate these new settings with the ones summarized by jywc55 here? Or is there another more updated post of comprehensive settings that this builds off of?

Thanks.

EDIT: Also, do you think you'll be re-calibrating with your incoming S590? I purchased the same one so was curious if there would be even more fine-tuned calibrations to my specific setup coming up soon.

Thanks again.

The other night my wife was watching Smash and I was off to the side doing something else when I noticed this jerky movement of all the characters on the screen. She saw it too, I checked the same video on the pz800 and nothing bad. Checking the settings on the UT50 I discovered motion smoothing was set to light, which I didn't think I had done. The affect was horrible. I'm not sure if it's some combination of directv's encoding or something else, but this looked awful.

I experimented a bit and found that all thee different motion smoothing modes have similar results. Motion smoothing is off again, and I'm trying to figure out under what conditions this feature is useful.

If you want to use my settings you should use the white balance adjustments and brightness and contrast and color and the other options are up to you. But the previous link you posted has the recommended settings for things like CATS and mosquito NR. The readings between the BDT220 calibration and S590 were the same so there's no need to recalibrate. The results are the same.

Sometimes it's useful for 3D to help with the motion blur of fast paced scenes. I don't usually like it because even on light I notice it's affect and don't care for the soap opera effect.

Thanks so much for this. I have a general question that I haven't been able to piece together after reading through a ton of the forums (people seem to refer to neo's settings in post #1 and post #60 which I cant find so I am going with these).

1.) To adjust to "clicks from default" we need to be in the service menu (in USA) right?
2.) Does that mean every time you want to watch something in 3D, you go back into the service menu and change the number of clicks since now you are in cool mode?
3.) If not is there a way to set it so we have custom warm 2 settings for 2D content (which I'm sure i'll use at least 90% of the time), and also have the 3D custom cool settings saved so when we flip to 3D mode this can all happen easily?
4.) I have only used default settings and "game mode" settings as of yet just tinkering around until I could get these questions answered and have noticed some slideshow type movements which I think is judder when there are really fast scenes (lions running on Animal Planet). Is this because the 3:2 pulldown settings are not setup properly?

I am assuming with the correct 3:2 pulldown settings at 60hz this will be resolved and that switching to 48hz for 3D in custom mode is also what people are generally doing based on what I have read here.

Thanks all in advance.

PathofNeo hasn't posted settings in quite some time, he had some things come up that he hasn't been able to calibrate and post about it. He didn't want his old settings being used because he knew when he can finally get around to calibrating than they will be far superior than his non-WB calibrated settings.

Yes, you should use the number of clicks because if your default settings are different you should get the proper adjustment. We've assumed that all TVs leave the factory looking the same.

For my settings you should use Warm for 2D mode and Cool for 3D mode. When you have 3D content displayed, either actually 3D or 2D-3D conversion, you will have access to the 3D picture mode settings which only apply to 3D. Select Cool 2 for your color temp, which is listed as "Cool" in the service menu. The TV switches picture modes between 2D and 3D so you won't have to after you have all your settings adjusted. Use Warm 2 in your 2D settings which is shown as "Warm" in the service menu.

3:2 pulldown setting is only if you have 24p content going to the TV so you can choose if you want the flickering 48Hz mode or have the TV perform the 3:2 pulldown and have smoother 60Hz. The main difference between sending 24p and 60p is where the pulldown is being done. It's like LPCM vs Bitstream with audio signals - whichever device does it best, set that as the decoder. I prefer 60Hz for all content, including 3D, but it's all personal preference and what you individually see and like.

I get it, so setting warm in the service menu will change the behind the scenes setting for what warm2 actually does.

So I can just set those for warm and cool, and then in regular tv mode when I flip between warm2 and cool2 it will actually be setting to the numbers we set in the service menu. Thanks A lot.

I plan on taking the firmware update as soon as I can - I didn't bother with network setup yet. Gone for the weekend but will probably mess around with it when I get home Sunday.


I also really found this post helpful:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1412033/the-official-panasonic-ut50-settings-issues-thread/600#post_22834972

I noticed some image retention after watching the Discovery Channel last night. I can still make out the "D" but it seems to be slowly fading.


Another issue that I noticed was that I am getting a greenish tint when viewing a dark gray slide. The middle of the panel is gray but the left and right areas are definitely not neutral gray.

Anikun, dumb question, are the new setting under custom or cinema. I used the original settings and I thought they were great. I'll give the new ones a try tomorrow. Thanks JT

I use Cinema but I don't know if it will really matter for grayscale. Since gamma is different it will affect brightness but I don't think color will be off.

I'm about on the 90hr mark with 70% of that running on the dvd slides. I think I'm going to used anikun's settings including the wb tonight when I get home from work. I won't have time this weekend, can't wait.