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The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 32

post #931 of 1379
3/2/13 at 12:43am
Just breaking in my 60" and so far I've only got a few hours running the burn-in clip (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4gE_Xez-fQ). I don't have a Disney WoW disc, do you think running the pixel flipper from this disc after the burn-in clip has run for about 50 hours is necessary? If so is there an alternative to the Disney WoW disc? Can't wait to get this broken in so I can role out Anikun's settings.
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post #932 of 1379
3/2/13 at 12:01pm
Sounds like you need the Screw Replacement Kit, some of the UT Plasmas have screws holding the boards in without lock washers. The screws eventually work themselves out and resonate a frequency from the boards. There are youtube videos you can watch on this. OR you can just re-tighten the screws.....
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post #933 of 1379
3/2/13 at 2:21pm
Is there a way to disable the red power on indicator light on the bottom frame of the ut50? In a dark room it keeps drawing my eye towards it. Just wondering if there is a setting to resolve this, or if i must resort to black electrical tape over it.
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post #934 of 1379
3/2/13 at 4:43pm
100 mile an hour tape will do the trick
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post #935 of 1379
3/2/13 at 5:05pm
Does everyone tape theirs, or just not find it distracting?
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post #936 of 1379
3/2/13 at 5:24pm
NOT for me; but, I can see how it might, in a DARK room
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post #937 of 1379
3/2/13 at 6:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Weatherbee View Post

Is there a way to disable the red power on indicator light on the bottom frame of the ut50? In a dark room it keeps drawing my eye towards it. Just wondering if there is a setting to resolve this, or if i must resort to black electrical tape over it.
There is a product from dim it sold by Amazon and BH photo for about 5 bucks that is a sheet of about 100 translucent stickers that take out about 80% of the light glare but still allows you to see what is underneath. The sheet also works well on the bright digital alarm clock.

Be sure to order the correct one as one type is a blackout sheet. Google light DIMS
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post #938 of 1379
3/2/13 at 8:23pm
Thanks ill be grabbing these. They have the 100% blackout edition which I'll use on the TV.
Edited by Kris Weatherbee - 3/2/13 at 11:45pm
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post #939 of 1379
3/2/13 at 11:49pm
Just got done setting up using anikuns setting. I noticed that my R-DRV and B-DRV defaults are different than anikuns.
Cinema Warm R-drv (F6) and B-drv (88)
Custom Normal R-drv (EA) and B-drv (C0)

I still followed the clicks as opposed to just using the end value on Anikuns settings.
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post #940 of 1379
3/3/13 at 5:40am
So, after a couple of days of trying Anikun's new WB settings I can confidently say.. I'm in heaven biggrin.gif They look fantastic! The only thing I can't imagine doing is setting my brightness at 48 - way too dark to these eyes (and verified by a test or two). I'm content at 57, though. Anyone else reporting similar? And FWIW, my contrast is happy around 85.
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post #941 of 1379
3/3/13 at 7:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyohhh View Post

So, after a couple of days of trying Anikun's new WB settings I can confidently say.. I'm in heaven biggrin.gif They look fantastic! The only thing I can't imagine doing is setting my brightness at 48 - way too dark to these eyes (and verified by a test or two). I'm content at 57, though. Anyone else reporting similar? And FWIW, my contrast is happy around 85.

Yes, and that depends on how you believe the brightness level should be. There's a divergence in how I could have calibrated brightness, I could use target brightness of the readings themselves or set brightness where the brightness test pattern shows 16 black and 17 flashing. I chose to follow the target brightness of the readings because this kept the Delta E values down. Delta E is the values of how far off from perfect each reading point is, it's a combination of RGB accuracy and brightness.
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post #942 of 1379
3/3/13 at 7:59am
Ahh okay, Anikun, I gotcha. I was using the flashing bar method. Either way, with my brightness in the mid-50s I'm perfectly happy with the color. Thanks again!
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post #943 of 1379
3/3/13 at 11:45am
And that's fine, I just wanted to explain why it seems so low. I've considered using the brightness pattern but haven't decided if I wanted to use it or not. The other reason why brightness is so much higher than my previous calibration is because RGB-Cuts are much lower than before so increasing brightness offsets that.
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post #944 of 1379
3/3/13 at 1:22pm
Anikun, I'm happy with brightness at 48. I'm just wondering how high you can raise brightness without affecting the WB. IF I were to raise it to 50, will it throw the calibration way off?

I had an ST and was using D nices settings. My UT with anikons calibration looks better.

There, I said it.
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post #945 of 1379
3/3/13 at 2:16pm
The white balance RGB controls are nothing more than the brightness and contrasts of each color. So the cut controls are the RGB brightnesses and the drive controls are the RGB contrasts. By raising and lowering each to get RGB balance you get D65 - target white. Changing brightness and contrast affects the calibration, but not as much for just a 2 point calibration. If you raised all the RGB Cuts all the same number clicks, it's the same as adjusting brightness in the regular menu. It's the same with the drive controls and contrast.
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post #946 of 1379
3/3/13 at 8:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyohhh View Post

So, after a couple of days of trying Anikun's new WB settings I can confidently say.. I'm in heaven biggrin.gif They look fantastic! The only thing I can't imagine doing is setting my brightness at 48 - way too dark to these eyes (and verified by a test or two). I'm content at 57, though. Anyone else reporting similar? And FWIW, my contrast is happy around 85.

Thanks for this post, I tried brightness at 57 and really felt that it rounded out the picture completely. With Anikun's settings at this brightness level, I feel like I'm getting the pop I was looking for, God I love this TV!
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post #947 of 1379
3/3/13 at 11:07pm
OK. So my meter came the other day and I just now got around to trying it out.

I'm using X-rite's software since it now has a "plasma" setting, and I don't feel like paying more for Calman... also HCFR seems a bit above my head.

I'm laughing pretty hard right now... because my by eye RGB cut/drive settings appear to have been pretty close? The readings I get keep changing, but they tend to average out right around 6500k. Once in a while it even reads that my reds and greens are right on the money... but not usually... it usually reads my reds are slightly high, greens slightly low, and blue slightly high. Currently reading 6511K, although I see it jump up to 6900-7100K a lot.

Should I be adjusting drive or cut here? For "White Point Adjustment"? Also... does the ABL crap skew this since the entire screen is made white by X-rite iProfiler, and not a small square in the middle?

Edit: A little bit more info about the readings I'm seeing:
Most of the time I get readings of like 6511K, 6580K, 6480K, 6660K.. etc... but sometimes they bounce way high to like 7100K... It's gotta be the ABL causing issues... and I can't find a way in iProfile to use a smaller image instead of full field.

Edit2: I took a sample of my greyscale in HCFR with no correction matrix, and my deltaE's are ranging from like 9.7 to 12. Not bad for my by eye calibration. I haven't attempted to calibrate it beyond what I did the other week by eye, because of the ABL issue in iProfiler and I'm still learning how to use HCFR.
Edited by damag0r - 3/4/13 at 3:06am
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post #948 of 1379
3/4/13 at 7:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by damag0r View Post

OK. So my meter came the other day and I just now got around to trying it out.

I'm using X-rite's software since it now has a "plasma" setting, and I don't feel like paying more for Calman... also HCFR seems a bit above my head.

I'm laughing pretty hard right now... because my by eye RGB cut/drive settings appear to have been pretty close? The readings I get keep changing, but they tend to average out right around 6500k. Once in a while it even reads that my reds and greens are right on the money... but not usually... it usually reads my reds are slightly high, greens slightly low, and blue slightly high. Currently reading 6511K, although I see it jump up to 6900-7100K a lot.

Should I be adjusting drive or cut here? For "White Point Adjustment"? Also... does the ABL crap skew this since the entire screen is made white by X-rite iProfiler, and not a small square in the middle?

Edit: A little bit more info about the readings I'm seeing:
Most of the time I get readings of like 6511K, 6580K, 6480K, 6660K.. etc... but sometimes they bounce way high to like 7100K... It's gotta be the ABL causing issues... and I can't find a way in iProfile to use a smaller image instead of full field.

Edit2: I took a sample of my greyscale in HCFR with no correction matrix, and my deltaE's are ranging from like 9.7 to 12. Not bad for my by eye calibration. I haven't attempted to calibrate it beyond what I did the other week by eye, because of the ABL issue in iProfiler and I'm still learning how to use HCFR.

If you don't want to pay for Calman or Chromapure (depending on your meter) then you'll want to use HCFR. Also, download the AVS AVCHD 709 disc and burn it to a DVD-R and use that for your patters. You'll be able to use windows instead of full field. ABL shouldn't be affecting your readings, the only thing it will affect is brightness. As for X-Rite software, unless they've come out with something new, most calibrators don't recommend it because it is designed for computer display calibration and not home/theater video calibration. If you have an i1 Display Pro/D3 you can use HCFR. As you mentioned you didn't want to pay for calibration software, but if you change your mind only Calman supports the i1 Display Pro/D3 Retail meter. Chromapure only supports the OEM version of the meter. I think, but you'd have to double check, Calman also supports the OEM version of the meter too.

Once you have the disc burned and the HCFR software installed, you can read through this page and learn EVERYTHING you need to know about getting started with calibrating. http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457 This is a super value for getting started and it's one of the most helpful things I've read for understanding the basics. If you have other questions you can post over in the calibrations or here or PM me if you want.
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post #949 of 1379
3/4/13 at 4:34pm
I just wanted to come back and specifically thank anikun07 and others who have put in the time to get these settings right. I have setup everything according to his most recent settings. I popped in the Avengers on 3d BR last night and we were blown away by how amazing it looked. I thought the 3D was going to just be a gimmick that we didn't care about. I've been spending quite a bit of time on ebay looking for 3D BRs today!

Got my harmony one all calibrated, which actually was surprisingly painful compared to how easy it was for my Bravia LED. Now the Bravia is the bedroom tv. hehe.
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post #950 of 1379
3/4/13 at 4:43pm
Not sure which forum to put this under so here goes...


I'm a newbie here and just recently picked up my tcp50ut50. I am currently in the breaking in perios, however....when I run the white scrol bar I notice some fairly faint green tinge (blob?) in the lower middle of my screen...rising up a good 4 inches.... This green is very hard to notice during regular viewing and does not show up during still slides (any colour) - it really (so far) is only noticeable with the white MOVING scroll bar. I have contacted Future Shop and they will exchange it for me. Am I over reacting in getting this exchanged? Should I be happy that this green discolouration is 'hardly' noticeable - in other words, every tv has their own ticks and I should just be happy its not major??

Thank you in advanced!

Updates: returned the tv, got another one...Same greenish cloud in lower middle part of the screen. Could this be because the tv is new and the pixels are 'hot' and need to settle
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post #951 of 1379
3/4/13 at 8:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bwar View Post

Updates: returned the tv, got another one...Same greenish cloud in lower middle part of the screen. Could this be because the tv is new and the pixels are 'hot' and need to settle

I don't know if plasma would be affected like CRTs with other magentic fields, but I think it's very odd to have the same problem like that on two different TVs which isn't actually some room-related issue.

Are plasmas bothered by magnets / magnetic fields / RF interference?
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post #952 of 1379
3/4/13 at 9:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

If you don't want to pay for Calman or Chromapure (depending on your meter) then you'll want to use HCFR. Also, download the AVS AVCHD 709 disc and burn it to a DVD-R and use that for your patters. You'll be able to use windows instead of full field. ABL shouldn't be affecting your readings, the only thing it will affect is brightness. As for X-Rite software, unless they've come out with something new, most calibrators don't recommend it because it is designed for computer display calibration and not home/theater video calibration. If you have an i1 Display Pro/D3 you can use HCFR. As you mentioned you didn't want to pay for calibration software, but if you change your mind only Calman supports the i1 Display Pro/D3 Retail meter. Chromapure only supports the OEM version of the meter. I think, but you'd have to double check, Calman also supports the OEM version of the meter too.

Once you have the disc burned and the HCFR software installed, you can read through this page and learn EVERYTHING you need to know about getting started with calibrating. http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457 This is a super value for getting started and it's one of the most helpful things I've read for understanding the basics. If you have other questions you can post over in the calibrations or here or PM me if you want.

I might break down and buy Calman basic for $150. I notice they had a bundle on their site for an i1 OEM + Calman Basic for $250... I should have gotten it. Oh well. In the mean time I'll fiddle a bit more with HCFR.

Thanks!
Edited by damag0r - 3/4/13 at 9:21pm
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post #953 of 1379
3/4/13 at 9:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff D View Post

I don't know if plasma would be affected like CRTs with other magentic fields, but I think it's very odd to have the same problem like that on two different TVs which isn't actually some room-related issue.

Are plasmas bothered by magnets / magnetic fields / RF interference?


Interesting. Did not think of that. I have a very cheap Philips sound bar in front on the tv. Below it (separated by a glass shelf) are my pvr, blue-ray and the sound bar bass box...
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post #954 of 1379
3/4/13 at 9:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bwar View Post

Not sure which forum to put this under so here goes...


I'm a newbie here and just recently picked up my tcp50ut50. I am currently in the breaking in perios, however....when I run the white scrol bar I notice some fairly faint green tinge (blob?) in the lower middle of my screen...rising up a good 4 inches.... This green is very hard to notice during regular viewing and does not show up during still slides (any colour) - it really (so far) is only noticeable with the white MOVING scroll bar. I have contacted Future Shop and they will exchange it for me. Am I over reacting in getting this exchanged? Should I be happy that this green discolouration is 'hardly' noticeable - in other words, every tv has their own ticks and I should just be happy its not major??

Thank you in advanced!

Updates: returned the tv, got another one...Same greenish cloud in lower middle part of the screen. Could this be because the tv is new and the pixels are 'hot' and need to settle

I had this same problem and it went away after 80 hours or so of use.

Although... I still notice some slight uniformity issues when using the scrolling bar utility or when there is a fully white screen. But it's never an issue while actually watching stuff.

It could be uneven wear from the sources I've been watching stuff from etc. No idea really, but point is... the green cloud/blob did go away in rather short order for me and no panel is perfect.... especially not for this price.

Edit: I have an air conditioner running right behind mine... so if you want to talk about magnetic fields!
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post #955 of 1379
3/4/13 at 9:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by damag0r View Post

I had this same problem and it went away after 80 hours or so of use.

Although... I still notice some slight uniformity issues when using the scrolling bar utility or when there is a fully white screen. But it's never an issue while actually watching stuff.

It could be uneven wear from the sources I've been watching stuff from etc. No idea really, but point is... the green cloud/blob did go away in rather short order for me and no panel is perfect.... especially not for this price.

Edit: I have an air conditioner running right behind mine... so if you want to talk about magnetic fields!

Good to know...I'll update with a bit more time on it! Fingers crossed cause I love this bad boy!!
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post #956 of 1379
3/5/13 at 4:35pm
How high can you safely run the contrast on these without worrying about damaging the panel or negative affecting image quality? I'm at 75 right now, but the panel still seems dim even in a softly lit room at night.
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post #957 of 1379
3/6/13 at 4:30am
So I finally did some calibrations with my i1 display pro and HCFR.

I was too lazy to set my Custom/Normal temp back to Anikun's settings, so I don't know how good they were for my panel... but here is what I got from his Cinema/Warm2 temp settings:





Greyscale DeltaE's are all around 4 or so with no changes to Anikun's settings.

After my RGB drive/cut changes (I might have messed up the gamma slightly???):


(Check the DeltaE on the 90%!!)




I would post settings, but not much point... as you can see... Anikun's settings achieved DeltaE's which were around 4. My panel has about 1500 hours on it if I remember right, so it's more likely Anikun's settings will work better on yours than mine I'm assuming. But if anyone cares, I'll post them later.

Here are before and after on the colors:
Before (with Anikun's settings)


After:


As you can see my changes improved the Red, Green, Yellow, and Cyan a bit, at the expense of the Blue, and Magenta.

If anyone has any tips on how to get my delta E's lower on the colors, please PM me.

Edit: I did not use any plasma correction matrix. If I really should have please let me know. I wasn't sure which one to use, if one at all, with my i1 display pro.
Edited by damag0r - 3/6/13 at 6:10am
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post #958 of 1379
3/6/13 at 6:14am
For gamma you should enter your target value. Gamma is a function of output brightness from the old days of CRTs. It's basically voltage in ^(1/gamma) = voltage out. So the bottom line with gamma is you have a brightness "signal" going into the TV and the gamma function is applied to slightly alter the displayed brightness. What this allows to happen is darker scenes have more detail and brother scenes have better detail. This is where you get that good shadow detail. A minimum of 2.2 is the recommended gamma to ensure good detail in dark scenes, from 2.2 to 2.5 or 2.6 is the accepted range for good gamma. On the UT50 we get good gamma only in cinema mode. All others modes have better vibrance and possibly brightness at the expense of gamma.
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post #959 of 1379
3/6/13 at 6:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

For gamma you should enter your target value. Gamma is a function of output brightness from the old days of CRTs. It's basically voltage in ^(1/gamma) = voltage out. So the bottom line with gamma is you have a brightness "signal" going into the TV and the gamma function is applied to slightly alter the displayed brightness. What this allows to happen is darker scenes have more detail and brother scenes have better detail. This is where you get that good shadow detail. A minimum of 2.2 is the recommended gamma to ensure good detail in dark scenes, from 2.2 to 2.5 or 2.6 is the accepted range for good gamma. On the UT50 we get good gamma only in cinema mode. All others modes have better vibrance and possibly brightness at the expense of gamma.

I'm a bit confused on how to enter my "target" gamma in HCFR. For "reference gamma" in the advanced settings it says 2.22. As you can see from my post above when I used your original 2d mode Cinema settings I got 2.12, and after my changes which brought delta E's below 2 (some well below 1, even 0.1 for 90%), I ended up with 2.10. I honestly prefer custom's "punchier" colors to cinema's better detail in dark scenes, at least for animated stuff... For live action I prefer cinema slightly as the extra detail in dark scenes actually matters much more with that type of content.

I would like to try to get my gamma up to 2.2 or so on Cinema... but maybe it's a good compromise for me to leave it at 2.1 since I do like vibrant colors? I'm also a bit confused as to what to set my "color" setting to... I just left it alone and did not touch it at all.

If we should move this to the calibration forum, or to PM, let me know. I don't want to go too far off topic for this section of the forum.

Thanks again Anikun!

Edit:

Here's the graph of my gamma... seems weird:



The before using your settings... it looks almost identical... except mine is ever so slightly lower overall. Same weird peaks at the end and valleys at the beginning though.
Edited by damag0r - 3/6/13 at 6:47am
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post #960 of 1379
3/6/13 at 10:53am
Gamma is fixed on our sets so cinema is 2.2 and custom will be 1.0 or 1.1. But one thing thing that's important, at least in Calman, is set the proper target gamma because it will affect your Delta E. x,y (red, blue) are important but Y (luminance) is important too in calculating dE.
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