The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 34

Originally Posted by nbnt 

Hi, again

Thanks for the help guys, but just 2 days after using this TV, I think it just broke.

While I was playing on my X360, I heard this sound (it's like the clicking sound when you turn it on) and suddenly, the right quarter of the screen just went black, a big black vertical bar. Just like that.

Originally Posted by damag0r 

Actually... this makes me want to ask a question... the "static" looking noise I see on plasmas and DLPs when I get up REALLY close, is that the dithering? Is it the weird noise I see around movement on plasmas? Or both?

Originally Posted by nbnt 

Hi, I wrote this in the other thread, sorry:
Is there any simple solution to this?

Originally Posted by martyvv 

hi every, Im new here just bought a p55ut50 looking for a good calibration setting thanks, cant find pathofneo settings

Originally Posted by Kris Weatherbee 

So after watching quite a few hockey games on the 60UT50 I just can't adjust to how the screen brightens and dims during play. I have noticed others saying this is from camera flashes in the stadium, and its just how the tv responds to this. My question is, is there any settings on this tv that can at least help reduce this effect?

Hockey next to movies is my main source of viewing on this tv, and if continues to do this distracting bright-dim thing I may just return it. Sad because PQ is the best of any tv i've ever owned.

Originally Posted by JSpectre88 

Reducing your contrast and using normal/cool is your best bet. I'm curious what's so distracting though, I can watch hockey just fine, not that I'm an avid hockey viewer. The ABL is going to cause the ice to appear dimmer or brighter depending on if the shot is mainly focused on just the ice or if it includes a lot of the players and audience, etc. Turning down contrast will reduce that effect, and altering the color temp. will make the ice appear brighter. You won't be able to stop the effects of the camera flashes/strobe lights, but hopefully that will reduce it slightly.

Originally Posted by Kris Weatherbee 

I will try those settings, thanks. I am an avid hockey fan (Canadian), and having over family and friends and they noticed the effect as well without my saying. It's not flashes or strobes that are annoying, rather the screen/ice brightening and staying that way for a few seconds. On my old LCD you would just see camera flashes lasting milliseconds and the screen/ice remains the same brightness which was totally acceptable in my opinion.

What does ABL stand for? Is that what i'm experiencing on the 60UT50; again at least 15-20 time per period the ice and screen brighten quickly and doesn't dim for a second, sometimes more. It's enough time to allow my eyes to adjust to a brighter ice, and in turn when it dims my eyes need to re-adjust again as it almost seems too dim.

Originally Posted by Mr Smith 

Hi guys

I am from South Africa and got my 50UT50 on Thursday based on my research.Up till now I have none of the buzzing or IR after watching lots of sports and movies with logo's on the screen

I have used the settings provided and will agree that's its best at night when its the dark.

I have a problem watching cricket at 50hz.When the ball rolls across the grass there is a flicker when it rolls.

Can I fix this with a setting I might have missed out on?

Originally Posted by Mr Smith 

Bump anyone

Originally Posted by JSpectre88 

I see. You're not really being affected by the brief flashes then, you're just seeing the difference in light output due to the ABL. The ABL stands for Automatic Brightness Limiter, it's built in and can't be turned off. Depending on how bright the overall screen is, it will dim the overall brightness output. The screen can stay bright enough that it's not very intrusive on most content, but if the screen needs to be very bright it's easily spotted. On second thought I would try leaving the contrast alone and altering the temperature first. If that still doesn't work for you then you're going to have to turn down the contrast to the point where the changes due to the ABL are much less intrusive. Of course by doing that you risk viewing a dimmer looking picture so that all views remain consistent, but it might help you adjust better.

Originally Posted by anikun07 

I will need the Panasonic Wifi adapter, although there were posts of a different brand possibly working. I keep my TV connected by cable, it's more reliable. Check on your PS3 for the output settings, make sure it's set to HDMI in case it's not set properly. I don't have a PS3, but I would expect the option to be similar to the S580 and S590 that I own.

Originally Posted by Jeff D 

This is what I was complaining about a couple pages back. I've been complaining, but I'm alone (at least according to panasonic). But I'm trained to notice these things.
My problems are these:
1) the standard mode (out of the box) has this "noise", for lack of a better term. It may be the result of some fancy image processing, but I don't know the hardware on that level. If you reset the TV and bring up the menus to setup the TV these screens show this noise, or movement. There is a fix, change to cinema mode and turn off some of the video processing "features" and these menu images become rock solid in color. This is good for 2D.

2) 3D is a different beast, it has the same pixel movement even with a solid color image (say the menus). It doesn't matter what mode you're in, the picutre always has motion. In the old days this use to be called dot-crawl, and was ususally caused by rf-noise which was collected by the cabling. Good shielded cables would show this less. But, with the TV I'm not sure what's going on. I don't have experience with the new 3d display technologies. But I think it may have something to do with the frame sequental display processing.

Most people won't notice this noise at normal viewing distances. I'm not one of those normal people. I can see this from greater than 10 feet away, some need to get up close to see.
Imagine if your PC screen did the same thing... you eyes would be bothered. (this is one of the reasons original computer monitors were monochorme).

The biggest problem is, unlike 2d mode where a different display mode fixes most of this movement the same is not true about 3d. All 3d display modes are equally bad, although some are worse.

My concern is, I don't think it needs to be there. I'm not sure panasonic is aware this is happening and a simple fix may fix it. This may also be required, but given the way 2d operates, I'd guess otherwise. I'm trying to get to get them to look at it, but I'm only one voice. This voice has a background in video processing, but that just means I know something isn't right.

Originally Posted by Mr Smith 

Bump anyone

Originally Posted by Jeff D 

This is what I was complaining about a couple pages back. I've been complaining, but I'm alone (at least according to panasonic). But I'm trained to notice these things.
My problems are these:
1) the standard mode (out of the box) has this "noise", for lack of a better term. It may be the result of some fancy image processing, but I don't know the hardware on that level. If you reset the TV and bring up the menus to setup the TV these screens show this noise, or movement. There is a fix, change to cinema mode and turn off some of the video processing "features" and these menu images become rock solid in color. This is good for 2D.

2) 3D is a different beast, it has the same pixel movement even with a solid color image (say the menus). It doesn't matter what mode you're in, the picutre always has motion. In the old days this use to be called dot-crawl, and was ususally caused by rf-noise which was collected by the cabling. Good shielded cables would show this less. But, with the TV I'm not sure what's going on. I don't have experience with the new 3d display technologies. But I think it may have something to do with the frame sequental display processing.

Most people won't notice this noise at normal viewing distances. I'm not one of those normal people. I can see this from greater than 10 feet away, some need to get up close to see.
Imagine if your PC screen did the same thing... you eyes would be bothered. (this is one of the reasons original computer monitors were monochorme).

The biggest problem is, unlike 2d mode where a different display mode fixes most of this movement the same is not true about 3d. All 3d display modes are equally bad, although some are worse.

My concern is, I don't think it needs to be there. I'm not sure panasonic is aware this is happening and a simple fix may fix it. This may also be required, but given the way 2d operates, I'd guess otherwise. I'm trying to get to get them to look at it, but I'm only one voice. This voice has a background in video processing, but that just means I know something isn't right.