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Onkyo TX-NR818 "official" owner's thread discussion - Page 30

post #871 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolcat4843 View Post

What does this do and why should you turn it on? confused.gif

Our sensitivity to low frequencies (and high frequencies) changes with volume. See equal-loudness contours. Dynamic EQ applies a master volume control dependent (and program loudness dependent) EQ to maintain the spectral balance of a recording at different volume settings.
post #872 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolcat4843 View Post

I noticed that in the owners manual for the 3009, it suggest that you adjust the volume on the subwoofers to 75db, before running the Audessey calibration.

It's part of the process when running Audyssey. Plug in the Audyssey mic and a wizard will guide you through.
post #873 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by markus767 View Post

Our sensitivity to low frequencies (and high frequencies) changes with volume. See equal-loudness contours. Dynamic EQ applies a master volume control dependent (and program loudness dependent) EQ to maintain the spectral balance of a recording at different volume settings.

But isn't this generally for people who listen at low volumes? It seem like a more sophisticated version of the "loudness" button.
post #874 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by UNICRON-WMD View Post

But isn't this generally for people who listen at low volumes? It seem like a more sophisticated version of the "loudness" button.

It's for any master volume setting that is not at reference ("absolute" set to "82" or "relative" set to "0").

I believe most people don't listen at reference level. It's simply too loud. I'm listening about 20dB lower most of the time.
Edited by markus767 - 7/4/12 at 5:25am
post #875 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by beezar View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by theblademan View Post

Just a quick question for the 818 owners out there, what's the output of this
receiver at 8ohms for all channels driven?
Can't seem to find the answer anywhere
Is this 4ohm ready?
I'm looking to buy a receiver for a renovated room in our house

I asked the same question and I believe someone mentioned (I think on this thread) that he wrote to Onkyo and the reply was that the 818 could power 4 ohm speakers, but all the speakers had to be 4 ohms (ie: it can't power both 4 ohm speakers plus 6 or 8 ohm speakers at the same time).

as the avr has no way of knowing what the impedance of the speaker is, i don't see how that could be true...

also, impedance is not static... it varies throughout the frequency range; in many speakers quite significantly....
post #876 of 9474
I've got my Yamaha A1000 on Ebay this week, so I will be picking up the 818 next week. I need some suggestions on smart power strip/line conditioners that will turn on my Outlaw Audio Model 7500 amp. From what I understand, the 818 does not have a trigger for the main zone. I'm one of the remaining few that prefers to have 5-6 remotes on my ottoman to control my system. So a universal remote is not an option I want to use. Nor do I want to eave my amp on all the time. Nor do I want to manually power it on since it is in another part of the house. So I believe a smart switch is best solution. Thanks!
post #877 of 9474
Are DirectDial, East Coast TVs, or PowersellerNYC authorized onkyo dealers? Anyone done business with any of them?
post #878 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyvaz View Post

I've got my Yamaha A1000 on Ebay this week, so I will be picking up the 818 next week. I need some suggestions on smart power strip/line conditioners that will turn on my Outlaw Audio Model 7500 amp. From what I understand, the 818 does not have a trigger for the main zone. I'm one of the remaining few that prefers to have 5-6 remotes on my ottoman to control my system. So a universal remote is not an option I want to use. Nor do I want to eave my amp on all the time. Nor do I want to manually power it on since it is in another part of the house. So I believe a smart switch is best solution. Thanks!

Here are a few different ideas.

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-BG108000-04-Conserve-Energy-Saving-Surge/dp/B001GQ2W6W

http://www.fullcompass.com/product/421200.html?utm_source=googleps&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=googleps&gclid=CIOOifymgLECFQZtKgodJ3Uq0Q

For me, I bought a battery backup, surge protector, power conditioner combo. With updateing the firmware on my electronics all the time, I thought this was a great idea to protect my equipment.

With a $10 gift card and a $30 discount code, I got it for $185 shipped.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-J25B-8-Outlet-Conditioner-Battery/dp/B003GSLL2E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341268419&sr=8-1&keywords=j25b
post #879 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by markus767 View Post

No, the manual says this about Reference Level Offset:
Reference Level
Audyssey Dynamic EQ Reference Level Offset
0dB:
This should be selected for movie contents.
5dB:
Select this setting for content that has a very wide
dynamic range, such as classical music.
10dB:
Select this setting for jazz or other music that has a
wider dynamic range. This setting should also be
selected for TV content as that is usually mixed at
10 dB below film reference.
15dB:
Select this setting for pop/rock music or other
program material that is mixed at very high listening
levels and has a compressed dynamic range.
Maybe you're confusing Reference Level and Reference Level Offset. RLO shifts the EQ curves of Dynamic EQ up and down.
Huh? http://www.avsforum.com/t/1412714/onkyo-tx-nr818-official-owners-thread-discussion/840#post_22186562
P.S. There's an Audyssey thread on AVS.
So where in the menu is Reference Level OFFSET? How do I get to it and change the setting?
post #880 of 9474
http://63.148.251.135/redirect_service.cfm?type=own_manuals&file=TX-NR818_English.pdf

Page 67
post #881 of 9474
What does the note at the bottom of P67 mean: Audyssey equalizing does not work with DSD sources?
post #882 of 9474
I was so hoping someone would have the 818 on sale for the 4th so i could pick one up but no luck yet!
post #883 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackBarry View Post

What does the note at the bottom of P67 mean: Audyssey equalizing does not work with DSD sources?

it could mean 2 things...

1) if there is a dsd direct mode on the avr (dunno if there is or not), audyssey couldn't possibly be applied, as it operates in the digital domain, and couldn't be applied with a dsd to analog conversion...

and/or

2) there isn't enough horsepower in the avr to do both a dsd to pcm decimation and apply audyssey as well... in which case, let your player decimate the dsd to pcm...
post #884 of 9474
How to connect full-time headphones to the receiver while keeping speakers active?

In previous Onkyo receivers, I would connect headphones to the VCR/DVR RCA outputs, and I'd make sure that every device connected to receiver inputs, has its RCA analog outputs connected to the associated RCA analog input on the receiver. This setup would allow the headphones to always receive the analog signal from whichever input was selected and being viewed by the receiver.

I'll clarify for those unfamiliar with how this worked, that the analog input was ignored by the receiver, when it detected an HDMI or other digital connection between that piece of equipment and the receiver. For example, the satellite box would output video and audio via HDMI, and also audio via analog. Because that's how those devices work (cable & satellite boxes), all outputs are active simultaneously. So the Onkyo receiver gets audio over the HDMI cable and the analog cable, and decides to only work with the HDMI audio. The analog connection is ignored, except that it's allowed to pass through to the TAPE OUT and VCR OUT analog RCA connectors.

OK, that's enough background.

How can I do something like this with the TX-NR818? Do I have to go back to the old external RCA switchbox approach? Have we taken a step foward, and two steps back, with this new generation of receivers, for the hearing-impaired and mobile amongst us?

Surely there's a set-it-and-forget-it way that works for the average Jane & Joe. WAF is critical here.

Thank you,

-John
post #885 of 9474
Direct-Stream Digital (DSD) is the trademark name used by Sony and Philips for their system of recreating audible signals which uses pulse-density modulation encoding, a technology to store audio signals on digital storage media that are used for the Super Audio CD (SACD).There is SACD on this unit I have used it and sound great.
post #886 of 9474
Hey guys, it seems I have bit too much bass in my dialog. How do I fix that?
post #887 of 9474
Turn up the treble to balance it out, or disconnect the woofers.
post #888 of 9474
Thread Starter 
Does anyone know if there is a way to get true HDMI pass-through working with the 818?

I switched from a Yamaha RXV-1800 to the 818 and although I am fairly satisfied with my upgrade, I am being stymied by one particularly annoying problem. I have an HTPC with a Radeon 6450 that runs XBMC. XBMC is set to match the refresh rate to source. With the Yamaha as the AVR, the HTPC would show "panasonic HDMI" as the connected device, which is correct since I've got a 65" Panasonic VT30 TV hooked up to the monitor out on the AVR.

With the Yamaha I got 100% perfectly good 1080p/24 output with no jerkiness and no frame drops.

With the 818, I have the HDMI set up as "direct" for my PC input as well as "direct" under the HDMI setup for the monitor out resolution. The HDMI on the PC now shows "onkyo HDMI" as the HDMI connection, regardless of settings on the 818.

What I am seeing, is no frame drops (fortunately XBMC has a counter to track those) but I see a slight jerk in the picture once every couple of minutes, so it would appear that instead of dropping frames what I am getting is a resync of the video to the audio, which I can visually notice with this setup. I did not experience this with the Yamaha.

Anyone have any suggestions? All I want is to get the 818 to truly pass through the HDMI signal to the TV and avoid this problem. I would prefer not to hook HDMI directly up from the HTPC to the TV, as it would mean giving up HD audio for my movies.

Thanks.
post #889 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmpage2 View Post

Does anyone know if there is a way to get true HDMI pass-through working with the 818?
I switched from a Yamaha RXV-1800 to the 818 and although I am fairly satisfied with my upgrade, I am being stymied by one particularly annoying problem. I have an HTPC with a Radeon 6450 that runs XBMC. XBMC is set to match the refresh rate to source. With the Yamaha as the AVR, the HTPC would show "panasonic HDMI" as the connected device, which is correct since I've got a 65" Panasonic VT30 TV hooked up to the monitor out on the AVR.
With the Yamaha I got 100% perfectly good 1080p/24 output with no jerkiness and no frame drops.
With the 818, I have the HDMI set up as "direct" for my PC input as well as "direct" under the HDMI setup for the monitor out resolution. The HDMI on the PC now shows "onkyo HDMI" as the HDMI connection, regardless of settings on the 818.
What I am seeing, is no frame drops (fortunately XBMC has a counter to track those) but I see a slight jerk in the picture once every couple of minutes, so it would appear that instead of dropping frames what I am getting is a resync of the video to the audio, which I can visually notice with this setup. I did not experience this with the Yamaha.
Anyone have any suggestions? All I want is to get the 818 to truly pass through the HDMI signal to the TV and avoid this problem. I would prefer not to hook HDMI directly up from the HTPC to the TV, as it would mean giving up HD audio for my movies.
Thanks.
Maybe, I'm mistaken, but I thought we have the functionality to pass through using the HDMI? It's in the Home menu. I'll check in about an hour or so.
post #890 of 9474
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Crawford View Post

Maybe, I'm mistaken, but I thought we have the functionality to pass through using the HDMI? It's in the Home menu. I'll check in about an hour or so.

Hi Robert,

What you are probably referring to is the ability to have the 818 pass-through a given HDMI signal when it is powered down. However, that pass-through HDMI functionality (818 acting as a basic HDMI switch) is not what it does when it is powered up and operating.
post #891 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmpage2 View Post

Does anyone know if there is a way to get true HDMI pass-through working with the 818?
I switched from a Yamaha RXV-1800 to the 818 and although I am fairly satisfied with my upgrade, I am being stymied by one particularly annoying problem. I have an HTPC with a Radeon 6450 that runs XBMC. XBMC is set to match the refresh rate to source. With the Yamaha as the AVR, the HTPC would show "panasonic HDMI" as the connected device, which is correct since I've got a 65" Panasonic VT30 TV hooked up to the monitor out on the AVR.
With the Yamaha I got 100% perfectly good 1080p/24 output with no jerkiness and no frame drops.
With the 818, I have the HDMI set up as "direct" for my PC input as well as "direct" under the HDMI setup for the monitor out resolution. The HDMI on the PC now shows "onkyo HDMI" as the HDMI connection, regardless of settings on the 818.
What I am seeing, is no frame drops (fortunately XBMC has a counter to track those) but I see a slight jerk in the picture once every couple of minutes, so it would appear that instead of dropping frames what I am getting is a resync of the video to the audio, which I can visually notice with this setup. I did not experience this with the Yamaha.
Anyone have any suggestions? All I want is to get the 818 to truly pass through the HDMI signal to the TV and avoid this problem. I would prefer not to hook HDMI directly up from the HTPC to the TV, as it would mean giving up HD audio for my movies.
Thanks.

Have you try through instead of direct?
post #892 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmpage2 View Post

Does anyone know if there is a way to get true HDMI pass-through working with the 818?

With the 818, I have the HDMI set up as "direct" for my PC input as well as "direct" under the HDMI setup for the monitor out resolution. The HDMI on the PC now shows "onkyo HDMI" as the HDMI connection, regardless of settings on the 818.

Anyone have any suggestions? All I want is to get the 818 to truly pass through the HDMI signal to the TV and avoid this problem. I would prefer not to hook HDMI directly up from the HTPC to the TV, as it would mean giving up HD audio for my movies.

Thanks.

545c3218-ef6c-d887.jpg

I am confused with the second paragraph - do you mean PC output? And there is NO "Direct" under a Monitor Output > Resolution. Do you mean "Source"?

I would suggest the 818 is set up as :-

Monitor Output > Resolution = Source
And the PC Input selected, then
Source Setup> Picture Adjust> Picture Mode = Direct

Does this work for you?
post #893 of 9474
Had a scare with the 818 this afternoon.

I was playing around with Airplay and the AP Express and had the unit really cranking (well near-reference levels) so it was loud...

I went off to compare it to the Denon 991 elsewhere in the house. The song ended and I came back to find the 818 dead. Hit the power button - click and nothing. Hit it again, click it came up. A few seconds later it was dead again - but it's responding to the app... hmm.... didn't trip the auto protect in diagnostic mode, what gives?

Tapped the "Direct Audio" button, the front panel pops to life again. That will teach me to set "Bright and LED Off" in the dimmer settings (if you do and select Direct Audio, the whole panel & volume knob turn off). rolleyes.gif
post #894 of 9474
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wl1 View Post

545c3218-ef6c-d887.jpg
I am confused with the second paragraph - do you mean PC output? And there is NO "Direct" under a Monitor Output > Resolution. Do you mean "Source"?
I would suggest the 818 is set up as :-
Monitor Output > Resolution = Source
And the PC Input selected, then
Source Setup> Picture Adjust> Picture Mode = Direct
Does this work for you?

Although the device is a 'PC' it has a video card with an HDMI output, so in order to get HD audio, etc, I am using the HDMI output from the Radeon 6450 in the PC and have that connected to the Blu-Ray input on the 818. The Windows PC will show what "monitor" it has detected at the other end of the HDMI connection and in my case, when I switched from the RXV-1800 to the Onkyo I observed that instead of it showing 'Panasonic' for the device name (ignoring the Yamaha in the middle) it now shows 'Onkyo'... which to me seems odd, like the AVR is not truly in a pass through mode.

And you are correct, no "direct" choice under monitor output, I have it set up as you recommend. The monitor output is set to "source" and the picture mode for the BD/DVD input is set to "direct", which from reading the manual implies that the HDMI signal is passed directly through to the TV without molestation.

I've also gone in and turned OFF the lip sync setting as I had been noting some periodic lip sync adjustment problems and anecdotally it seems that it might work a bit better with it off.

The only thing I can chalk up my problem to is that there must be some kind of slight timing issue between the 6450 ATI Radeon card in the PC, the 818 and the Panasonic Plasma (which is in an ISF mode) which I was not experiencing with the Yamaha RXV1800.

I'm off today and have been itching to watch my MKV ripped from my copy of Aliens, so I think I'm going to go and do that now and see what I observe. I believe that the director's cut is almost 3 hrs long and has a DTS-MA audio track so should be a pretty good test.
post #895 of 9474
^^^

if anyone has test disks, it might be interesting to run some video tests....
post #896 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k2ss View Post

I was so hoping someone would have the 818 on sale for the 4th so i could pick one up but no luck yet!

Check the deals forum.
post #897 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmpage2 View Post

Does anyone know if there is a way to get true HDMI pass-through working with the 818?

I switched from a Yamaha RXV-1800 to the 818 and although I am fairly satisfied with my upgrade, I am being stymied by one particularly annoying problem. I have an HTPC with a Radeon 6450 that runs XBMC. XBMC is set to match the refresh rate to source. With the Yamaha as the AVR, the HTPC would show "panasonic HDMI" as the connected device, which is correct since I've got a 65" Panasonic VT30 TV hooked up to the monitor out on the AVR.

With the Yamaha I got 100% perfectly good 1080p/24 output with no jerkiness and no frame drops.

With the 818, I have the HDMI set up as "direct" for my PC input as well as "direct" under the HDMI setup for the monitor out resolution. The HDMI on the PC now shows "onkyo HDMI" as the HDMI connection, regardless of settings on the 818.

What I am seeing, is no frame drops (fortunately XBMC has a counter to track those) but I see a slight jerk in the picture once every couple of minutes, so it would appear that instead of dropping frames what I am getting is a resync of the video to the audio, which I can visually notice with this setup. I did not experience this with the Yamaha.

Anyone have any suggestions? All I want is to get the 818 to truly pass through the HDMI signal to the TV and avoid this problem. I would prefer not to hook HDMI directly up from the HTPC to the TV, as it would mean giving up HD audio for my movies.

Thanks.

I have a TX-NR876 and have a TX-NR818 inbound. On the 876, even if you set the source to direct, if you have the "immediate display" option set to yes so you can see volume changes on the screen, it has to molest the signal to get the overlay on the screen.

I have had mine set to off because the HQV Reon in the 876 was said to degrade the picture if it was on. I understand the HQV Vida is supposed to be much better in this regard. I'm not sure if this option exists to turn off on the 818 but I intend to leave it on with the 818 because I have never been able to see receiver volume levels.

I also have a PC with a Radeon 5570 and XBMC. I just double checked for you and my Catalyst Control Center shows my connected panel as "TX-NR876" and not the name of my Sharp LCD. The TX-NR876 is set for "Through" (there is no direct). I can see my TV report 1080p/24 when I watch a movie in XBMC because I also switch tv refresh to source.

Some of the skips can be attributed to the fact that AMD cards (and CCC drivers) aren't perfect to 23.976. Maybe the Yamaha was converting to 1080/24 somehow.
Edited by AndrewS99 - 7/5/12 at 2:54pm
post #898 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6sj7gt View Post

Check the deals forum.
Thanks!!
post #899 of 9474
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewS99 View Post

I have a TX-NR876 and have a TX-NR818 inbound. On the 876, even if you set the source to direct, if you have the "immediate display" option set to yes so you can see volume changes on the screen, it has to molest the signal to get the overlay on the screen.
I have had mine set to off because the HQV Reon in the 876 was said to degrade the picture if it was on. I understand the HQV Vida is supposed to be much better in this regard. I'm not sure if this option exists to turn off on the 818 but I intend to leave it on with the 818 because I have never been able to see receiver volume levels.
I also have a PC with a Radeon 5570 and XBMC. I just double checked for you and my Catalyst Control Center shows my connected panel as "TX-NR876" and not the name of my Sharp LCD. The TX-NR876 is set for "Through" (there is no direct). I can see my TV report 1080p/24 when I watch a movie in XBMC because I also switch tv refresh to source.
Some of the skips can be attributed to the fact that AMD cards (and CCC drivers) aren't perfect to 23.976. Maybe the Yamaha was converting to 1080/24 somehow.

I don't believe that option exists for the 818, but certainly might be mistaken. It definitely does have the look of "video processing" screwing with the picture.

The Radeon 6450 is considered the most accurate Radeon card available, and the absolute closest to true 23.976, but you are right, these cards are not perfect. There's a good HTPC video card shootout from Anandtech here, that's pretty good for looking at how these cards handle clocking. I believe that the HD6450 gets 23.977 natively which is pretty good and might result in a dropped frame every hour or two during playback potentially but much better than everything else out there.

In watching Aliens, I noticed that the judder I was seeing was almost like 3:2 pulldown "judder" and for kicks I checked the setting on my Panasonic Plasma. Surprisingly, the 24P in setting on my Panasonic had become set to "60fps" instead of the "96fps" that I had it set to earlier.

I'm not sure if this change happened when I unplugged everything to wire up the 818 or earlier... changing it to 96hz has improved things quite noticeably, but I still see just a little tickle of motion judder that I was not seeing with the Yamaha.

in any event, it looks like after this change this is as "good as it's gonna get" and I will just have to get used to it.

Thanks for the advice that's been offered.
post #900 of 9474
Quote:
Originally Posted by UNICRON-WMD View Post

Here are a few different ideas.
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-BG108000-04-Conserve-Energy-Saving-Surge/dp/B001GQ2W6W
http://www.fullcompass.com/product/421200.html?utm_source=googleps&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=googleps&gclid=CIOOifymgLECFQZtKgodJ3Uq0Q
For me, I bought a battery backup, surge protector, power conditioner combo. With updateing the firmware on my electronics all the time, I thought this was a great idea to protect my equipment.
With a $10 gift card and a $30 discount code, I got it for $185 shipped.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-J25B-8-Outlet-Conditioner-Battery/dp/B003GSLL2E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341268419&sr=8-1&keywords=j25b

Thanks, I will look into these. I also got an email today from Monoprice. They have a unit that looks like a clone of a Monster Cables unit. I believe it also has switched outlets. I know Belkin also has a unit that has switches that can be configured.
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