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Dual Opposed Infinity Reference 1262W - Page 3

post #61 of 68
Oh wow I was wrong about the iNuke. Might have to give them a listen as I'll be needing some more amps power soon, was going to just get more XTis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jinjuku View Post

They are quieter but still loud. Think Lawnmower vs Jet Engine smile.gif
Damping factor is tied to the amount of negative feedback employed. So that metric doesn't necessarily apply. The iNuke 1K and 3K are rated 2 Ohm.
I think the best way is use the iNuke 3000 at two ohm on one channel. That will give you 620 watts RMS (I don't know if this is 20-20K). Use the 1260W (not the 62) and wire for a two ohm load. Then you can always add a 2nd sub later on on channel two. That for roughly $700 is a killer combo.
post #62 of 68
Could someone explain to me a little bit about the way this sub is modeled? I say this because I'm new to WinISD but I'm showing 2 drivers in a 4.8 ft^3 box, exceed xmax at 28 hz with just 500 watts of input power. I saw it suggested earlier to run them at 2 ohms for 775 watts per driver which would exceed xmax much earlier. Also, I know the 300W rating is just the power handling of the voice coil but is it safe to put 775 watts into a 300 watt driver? I know box design plays a large part in power handling, but I'm still not clear on what is acceptable and what is not.

I'm mainly asking for my own knowledge as I'm trying to design my own DIY and this looks like a very tempting option.

EDIT: Ok it looks like 775 watts was suggested for a smaller box, but the general question still stands... The modeling shows this design exceeding xmax with 4.5 ft^3, is this a major issue? How does that affect performance?
Edited by Zestforlife - 9/2/12 at 8:37pm
post #63 of 68
I've got two of these subs in a sealed enclosure of almost exactly 4.1 cuft with an available 775 watts. I built a matching pair so i have a total of four subs. I don't listen at reference levels so Im not really concerned about damaging the subs. And even if I do damage a sub, they are super cheap and I'll just buy replacements.
post #64 of 68
Am also interested in this build, and am a newbie at speaker building looking for help. I have an old DBX-SW15 cabinet available to use (internal volume is 16.5"W x 16.5"D x 19"H = 2.99cf sealed enclosure). Removing the old 15" sub from the bottom and cutting out the bottom panel should be relatively straightforward, but am wondering about how best to attach internal bracing (Just use wood glue?).

Also, am looking for LFE accuracy more than high DB. Any idea how this design would fare with lower powered equipment? Power options available without spending $$ include:

Building 1 or 2 100 watt RMS plate type amps pulled from other subwoofers into the box (E:XL-S8 amps pulled from Energy subwoofers)

Using an older 200 WPC vintage SAE A205 amp.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks DBX DB-sw15.JPG 1144k .JPG file
post #65 of 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by squash42 View Post

Removing the old 15" sub from the bottom and cutting out the bottom panel should be relatively straightforward, but am wondering about how best to attach internal bracing (Just use wood glue?).
Also, am looking for LFE accuracy more than high DB. Any idea how this design would fare with lower powered equipment?

Personally, I think that you would be better off just building a new enclosure that is built for specific drivers. With the amount of work involved to make your existing cabinet "work", you're half way to just starting from scratch anyway. Why not just spend $40 on a sheet of MDF and save yourself some potential headaches? Plus, adding internal bracing to an existing enclosure could be a huge pain on it's own. As for using existing amps, that's fine as long as the amps are rated for whatever load you present them with. In other words, don't focus your build around a couple of amps that might not work with a 4ohm load, or whatever the case may be. Be sure that they can handle whatever subs you buy and be sure that you're getting the most out of your build. I wouldn't build a sub that is designed to work well with 200w if you plan to buy a 700w amp in the near future. Save up that money and do things the way you really want from the get go.

While these subs are great for what they are, cheap, you're better served by using multiples with good amounts of power to really get the most out of them in a sealed application. I have two enclosures with two drivers each. Each enclosure is getting 775w. It sounds great but I also started by figuring out what my room would need and what I was trying to accomplish.

You also say that sound accuracy is important to you; the only way to achieve this is with an enclosure designed and built for specific drivers. Anything else is just a craps shoot.

I would suggest that you start a new thread so that we can better address your questions. You would also get better exposure and maybe feedback from a larger audience.
post #66 of 68
These infinity reference subs are in sale at Amazon right now for 50% off retail.

You can buy carpeted sub boxes cheaper than you could build them.


Cheap easily AIY build when coupled with an inuke amp.
post #67 of 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

These infinity reference subs are in sale at Amazon right now for 50% off retail.

You can buy carpeted sub boxes cheaper than you could build them.


Cheap easily AIY build when coupled with an inuke amp.

Actually the 1262w is the everyday price of $66 on Amazon. The 1260w is even cheaper at $60! They sure look like nice subs for the price though.
post #68 of 68
I have a pair of these (1262w, wired for 2 ohm) in two sealed 1.25 cubes, one per cabinet. very happy with them, driven well past rated specs regularly with a Crown XLS 1000 pro amp. Of course it's no LMS, but each cab cost under $100 all in...
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