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Umatic VO-2600 Repair Advice

post #1 of 15
5/31/12 at 8:38pm
Thread Starter 
Hey, thought some old time CRT guys might be able to point me in the right direction. We have an old Umatic VO-2600 that is not responding to any input on the buttons. Have not been able to find any repair stuff online or in the forums. Can anyone point me in the right direction or move this to the best forum area?
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post #2 of 15
6/1/12 at 8:55am
Hello

The best direction is a nearby dumpster; that thing is 30 years old.
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post #3 of 15
6/1/12 at 10:58am
Wow..I used to repair those, but that was a very long time ago as Tim pointed out.

So of course, there's no way I would remember what could possible to the problem. Age just wont let that happen.
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post #4 of 15
6/1/12 at 6:48pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:


The best direction is a nearby dumpster; that thing is 30 years old.

Oh Tim, if only I did not have to convert these stacks of 3/4inch tapes to digital.

Quote:


Wow..I used to repair those, but that was a very long time ago as Tim pointed out. So of course, there's no way I would remember what could possible to the problem.

Hey Mike,
**Guess who found a service manual?***
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post #5 of 15
6/1/12 at 7:56pm
Thread Starter 
Hey, just came up with a potential solution while relaxing and looking at the schematics. Underneath the main chassis is the main power supply board. The board contains several fuses on it. If one or more fuses were to go out, would the entire machine likely refuse to power as a whole or would it just lose certain functions? (i.e. like a car stereo fuse)
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post #6 of 15
6/1/12 at 8:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWill View Post

Hey, just came up with a potential solution while relaxing and looking at the schematics. Underneath the main chassis is the main power supply board. The board contains several fuses on it. If one or more fuses were to go out, would the entire machine likely refuse to power as a whole or would it just lose certain functions? (i.e. like a car stereo fuse)

Yes, but also look at the caps on that board if bulging or leaking they should be replaced.

Nashou
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post #7 of 15
6/2/12 at 6:48am
Thread Starter 
Yes to what? - Losing certain functions or refusing to power on altogether?
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post #8 of 15
6/2/12 at 2:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWill View Post

Yes to what? - Losing certain functions or refusing to power on altogether?

Probably to power up all together.

Nashou
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post #9 of 15
6/3/12 at 6:15am
Check for these two operations:

1, Does the unit load and unload the tape when inserted?

2, If loading, does it pull the tape out of the cartridge and them completes a full wrap-around the spinning head assembly?
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post #10 of 15
6/3/12 at 10:53am
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Check for these two operations:

1, Does the unit load and unload the tape when inserted?

2, If loading, does it pull the tape out of the cartridge and them completes a full wrap-around the spinning head assembly?

Mike,

It does neither. When the elevator is plopped down (just to clarify, this is a top loader) the machine does not respond at all. All belts look okay, but I have spares so can do if need be. I've checked the switches to see if something might trigger the onboard Logic controls but there is no response.

The following is part of an email and pictures I sent to VideoLabGuy yesterday describing the situation. The pictures show the deck without the cassette loader:

Quote:


Which sensor bulb are you talking about? Is it the pilot light that stays on the whole time? Last time that went out, the "STANDBY" light stayed on until I replaced it and then everything was okay. I changed it with a spare this time too, but to no avail. There is no "STANDBY" light at all. I also tried pressing down the two cassette sensor prongs that connect to the AC Motor switch. These do not respond in stopping the main motor.

The cassette-up switch at the front also does not respond. This is circled in red in the picture labled "umatic2". Not sure if these could get things going again, but felt I should mention. As far as I know, all belts seem to be functioning. The whole things rotates like clockwork underneath!

If it is not too much trouble, could you circle any the sensors or points to check within the top level mechanisms in the attached pictures? I've included a couple without the elevator on. If a schematic or blow out diagram would be better, let me know and will scan one in too.

If it helps, the machine had a cold start after sitting dormant in my basement for a couple months. It played a tape fine for a few seconds until I tried to eject it. Now even the eject button does not produce a response. Do you think a bad fuse or cap is at all likely? I came across the power supply board at the bottom and noticed several of these, but did not think to check them at the time. One guy on the AVS forum said it would be unlikely for the entire machine to power up if it was a bad fuse, but felt I should ask anyhow.

Will be in North Carolina this upcoming week so may be slow to respond. Thanks for all the help!
LL
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #11 of 15
6/3/12 at 4:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWill View Post

Mike,

It does neither. When the elevator is plopped down (just to clarify, this is a top loader) the machine does not respond at all. All belts look okay, but I have spares so can do if need be. I've checked the switches to see if something might trigger the onboard Logic controls but there is no response.

If my memory serves me right, once the tape drops, the carousel should automatically pull the tape out of the cartridge and around the rotating video head assembly.

With what you have mentioned, that's the lesser problem. the real problem is the tape being fully loaded around the rotating head assembly, with no response (no play, rew, ff, etc) from the front panel.

So, there should only be a few things that would prevent auto-load (full tape out of the cartridge and around the rotating video heads assembly).

Two things to check, one is a lamp....Ok, I just read where you had replaced a sensor lamp. Was the replacement an original. Because not any lamp will make this circuit work.

Also, and since the unit has been sitting for a long time, I would suspect one of the contact switches being oxidized or not making a good closed contact. You would need a few very small clip-leads to check this out. And once you're able to get your hands on them, you'll need to connect them on each of the switches-one-at-time, and complete the contact yourself once the tape drops.
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post #12 of 15
7/11/12 at 3:10pm
Thread Starter 
Nope, this one's not dead yet! Been away for a few weeks but will be resurrecting this discussion soon.
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post #13 of 15
8/7/12 at 10:09pm
Thread Starter 
Mike, are you still there? I have never really gone in depth on one of these things before but actually having someone walk me through it in person would be an honor. I do understand what you mean about fiddling with the contact switches but going from here may require a bit more of a learning curve. PM me if you can. Thanks!
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post #14 of 15
8/12/12 at 8:13am
PM sent.

I used to be really good with those U matics, but has since moved on to Betacam. I still have a Betacam SP deck, and several Pro cameras. I thought about getting back into repairing the Betacam units because there's not many repair facilities that still do them, but with my hands also being filled with going forward on some other things, I'll not likely go back into doing these decks and cameras.
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post #15 of 15
2/3/13 at 10:42am
Have you solved your dead U-matic problem yet? I have a great deal of experience with those machines. I have a number of pointed questions to ask but I will not waist my time typing them if the problem is solved. Write me at doogie812@yahoo.com
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