Saturday I completed one and on Sunday, completed another. DONE!
Whats left is the roundover, bondo, primer, and paint. For my first build it came out better than I expected. There are some gaps and one does not sit level but its nothing a little bondo and adjustable spikes can't fix
I think I'll connect all four to my computer to have a listen for a few hours tomorrow.
I can't remove the drivers from the enclosures... I tried making a hook from a small screw driver and it still won't budge.
I may be able to push a stick through the terminal plate and push the magnet. Would like any other ideas but for now...go to go to work This is going to bug me all day!
Edit: Phew! I was able to get it out, used a stick to push up on the basket through the terminal plate.
I have a question about the speaker gasket...do you stick it to the driver or enclosure? The driver already has a thin gasket, I assume I take that off and put on the new one I bought from parts express.
I have a question about the speaker gasket...do you stick it to the driver or enclosure? The driver already has a thin gasket, I assume I take that off and put on the new one I bought from parts express.
No, do not take the gasket tape off of the driver - LEAVE that on there.
The gasket tape that you purchased from PE needs to be applied to the box itself, where the driver will sit.
Its been a couple months since I've updated anything. I did run some graphs and I got some pretty nasty dips at 35hz and 80hz IIRC. I tried spinning some of the subs around and it did nothing, not much I can do with placement but Audyssey does flatten it out some. I couldn't be any happier with the sound, when pushed hard it sounds clean. Right now I'm using some old HTIB speakers sitting on top of the subs. I plan to build 3 seos12 speakers in the future.
I did create some videos if anyone cares...
The receiver volume was set to -5 but the subs were running hot, my guess would be +6db. Radioshack meter dial is at 110db. I probably could have gone a bit further but I was too chicken It sounds distorted because the microphone was not designed for such high spl.
The cloth is not jet black so it does kind of look a little tiny bit purple. Its really not that bad in person in normal lighting conditions.
Here is the clamp. I added a piece of USB cable to fill in the gap and the grip is pretty good, no play at all. The clamps were made for woofers that are mounted on top of the baffle, thats why there is a gap. I plan to replace these with some Angled Clamps, I think these will look nicer.
This is what the setup currently looks like. I plan to build 3 slim sealed SEOS Tempest. I was thinking of placing the left and right Tempests in the the corners but I don't know where to put the lamps without it looking weird.
Hi, I started yesterday a thread about finding good void free but also formaldehyde free plywood. PureBond satisfies the latter but I was wondering about your experience about the void-free part. Is it dense enough, and did you notice any voids while you were cutting? I am thinking of the maple variety (shipped only) as I would like to finish it, not paint it. Would you say it is finish quality?
thanks
There wasn't a lot voids in it but I wouldn't use it again because of the thin veneer on the outside. The veneer is pretty nice but its useless in a cabinet if you only plan to use glue and no screws.
There wasn't a lot voids in it but I wouldn't use it again because of the thin veneer on the outside. The veneer is pretty nice but its useless in a cabinet if you only plan to use glue and no screws.
Thanks. It seems that going for Baltic Birch or cabinet grade ply might be a solution for me.
However, I do not understand why a nice veneer is useless with glue..