or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Kinetic River Cinema

post #1 of 597
Thread Starter 

Room Dimensions:  Unfinished:  19'10"L x 15'10"W x 8'8"H.  

Soundproofing:  IB1 Clips / Channel, OSB, Green Glue, 5/8 Drywall

Acoustic Design:  Bryan Pape - GIK Acoustics


Equipment List:





130" Wide -  235:1 Seymour Center Stage XD



LCR's - Triad In-Room Silver LCR

Surrounds:  4  Triad Silver In-Wall Surrounds

Subs:  2  Triad Gold In-Room Power Subs



Emotiva UMC-1



QSC CX168 8-Channel Pro Power Amp

2  Triad Power Sub Amps



Lutron Grafik Eye - QS 8-zone (need to buy)





Edited by fax6202 - 10/29/12 at 12:08pm

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #2 of 597
Thread Starter 

Current Build Status:





Edited by fax6202 - 10/14/12 at 4:40pm
post #3 of 597
Thread Starter 


Edited by fax6202 - 4/13/13 at 7:40pm
post #4 of 597
AT screen at the poles makes sense to me - if you're planning on two rows of seats, second row on a riser, I would think you'll need to narrow down what seats you're planning, so you can plan the depth of the riser, and that will dictate where it makes sense to put the entry door.

Does the alcove have windows? If so, how high from the floor (i.e. would they interfere with the riser)?
post #5 of 597
Thread Starter 
No windows. To use the alcove for the screen wall would be ok also if I could somehow incorporate the poles into the last row, maybe between them.
post #6 of 597
Thread Starter 
Edited by fax6202 - 3/17/13 at 7:30pm
post #7 of 597
Thread Starter 
The room would be 18ft to the screen wall, 20-22ft to the back of the room (under the HVAC) where the LCR will be. Width would be about 16.5'. This would be more than enough for two rows of three with a riser, steps on both sides.
post #8 of 597
Thread Starter 
Does anyone have any suggestions for the size of the star ceiling, I am going to run soffits around the perimeter of the room but would like to have an idea on what size to make them.

My ceiling is pretty decent at 8'7".

Also, I now have two registers servicing the room, straight 10 ft runs right off of the main trunk line. I believe that two will be enough but I do not have a return. Is the purpose of the "dead vent" for the return?
post #9 of 597
You could use the area between the support posts and wall, as an aisle and go with a rear entry at riser level. Have to deal with how to access room 1, but a couple of steps could go in the storage area. (The storage room door could be a hidden door, to get one "less" door in the space.)

Steps in the hallway could allow another seat in the front row....

So what way do those steps go up or down? And exactly what is the function of the room beside the stairs?

The ceiling in the hallway could be at the height of the soffit and hide the ductwork completely.
post #10 of 597
Thread Starter 
That would definitely work. But would I lose some length? I would have 18ft to front and then have to factor in the stage.
post #11 of 597
Thread Starter 
Here are the preliminary floor plans. Any and all ideas/comments are welcome.

This is the general layout with chairs. I like the symmetry of two rows of 3. I could get 4 across and still have steps on both sides but that seems a bit crowded. Not sure on the riser height yet, will plan later.

Here is the layout with columns. I may place the back columns at each corner and make bass traps. I enjoy wood working and am tryiing to figure out a color scheme, probably going to be black and brown(s), the cabinets will be walnut. I have alot of walnut in my father in-laws shop. The stage and screen wall is probably going to be trimmed out in walnut also. Still up in the air. Going with a DIY star ceiling, I am just starting to go thru some threads on folks that have done it and gather some info, soffit will have crown and up lighting. I have two AC supplies which run from the trunk line (to the left of the screen wall) to the back of the room. Dead vent in back right side as a return.

And this is the 1st lighting plan. Not sure yet how I am going to work in the soffit and the can lights up front shining on the stage. To be continued.....

post #12 of 597
It could work if you do a very shallow front AT space and whether you can live without recliners, and on the stairs themselves. It'd be a tight design but could be managed.
I prefer offset seating when it allows for a lower riser. Otherwise, I prefer not wasting money on a chair that will go unused. smile.gif

Won't the support poles in the front stage area have a serious impact on audio? The poles will box the mains and (I'm guessing) they will have an impact
on sound pans and imaging. And won't the support posts will be a conduit for bass to get to the home's framing (and spread)? You also have the seats on the rear wall
and viewers will be right on top of the rear surrounds. Those surrounds will be very distracting to anyone seated nearby.

BTW, where are you planting the av rack? That alcove might work...
post #13 of 597
I like the layout. A few comments:

-You need to make your riser much deeper if you plan on reclining theater seats. 5' deep is not enough. Shoot for at least 6'-6", but more is better as it will pull your seats further away from the rear surrounds.

-HVAC supplies are more common in the front of the room, or on the sides if you can keep air flow from blowing directly on the seats. Seems like you would get better circulation if the supplies were on the opposite side of the room from the return, but I'm not an HVAC expert.

-Be careful when planning the locations of your can lights, supplies and columns. You most likely want a symmetrical look when done, with either your can lights centered between the columns (washing the walls), or centered on each column. Or, you can have them centered on AND between the columns if you need a little more light. However, you don't want your light spacing to seem random relative to the columns or it's going to look funny. Once you figure out the spacing of your lights & columns, locate your supplies in a location that doesn't conflict.

-If you are going with a curved stage, you might consider a curved soffit to hold your lights above the screen. Here is an example from my build.

I don't know if the dimensions would work, but have you looked at flipping the room and hiding your support posts in decorative columns of a rear row bar? I think you would only have room for one row of seats in front of the bar, but it might be an option.
post #14 of 597

I like this plan but you need to be sure the hallway at the bottom of the stairs is reasonably wide, not only for code but for getting things up and down the stairs. It looks like you can sacrificece some width to make it reasonable. The door to the theater should be ahead of the first row and that decorator column may need to be moved. I didn't see mention of your choice of seating but as mentioned reclining HT seats require a riser at least 6 1/2 ft deep even then having your head at the back wall is not the best for surround sound.

Draw that plan more to scale for another review.
post #15 of 597
Glad to have found this thread - was following you on the other one, subscribed.
post #16 of 597
Thread Starter 

I had the same concern. I did not want it to be tight at the bottom of the stairs and to be honest I did not want a hallway at all. So i think I may go with something like this


The two boxes in the adjacent room will be the equipment rack and the blue one is the deadvent. This is an updated room spec


I did not add a door as I was waiting for some guidance on where to place it. Also the seating is still up in the air. I would probably want a couch/loveseat configuration in the rear row and the reclining seats up front.

@Spaceman - The stage looks great. I love the curved look.

Thanks all for your comments. I will continue to finalize plans and post as I do. Please keep the comments coming, there are alot of great ideas garnered from the folks around here.
post #17 of 597
Thread Starter 
While I am moving forward with the new plans I also started a little demo. I took the riser apart, I managed to salvage most of the treated 2x6's. I don't know if I will need them but I didnt want to just toss them. I cant convey how relieved and pleased I am with the changes. I am just glad it was not too late. The demo...........


I did save all of the fiberglass insulation, that will come in handy real soon.



Tearing this down and moving a wall is going to require that I make some modifications to my electrical runs, but nothing major. I will also have to reposition the ceiling fan in the adjacent room.


More this weekend.
post #18 of 597
Thread Starter 
I got quite a bit done today. First I took some chestnut oak to the sawmill that I use. I may use this for my baseboard in the rest of the basement, not sure yet.




A little demo as well....



And then a bit of cleaning. I will be framing the theater wall in the a.m.
post #19 of 597
Thread Starter 
A good long day on the basement today. More demo, taking out all of the A/V cable runs. And I finally have an exact room dimension. HT is 19'10" x 16' x 8'8". I had to do some serious calculating to make it work but I didnt want to fall into that width and 2x the ceiling height bpape warned me about. And this gives me plenty of room for the columns on both sides of the room.

This pile got bigger and bigger.....

These are the archways I had in the original plan, I really loved the look but I just knew that I would regret not having a single dedicated room, with all of the acoustic benefits of that room

And then........

And now.....

This is the back wall of the theater, I still have to frame the right wall.

AT screen will go right in front of the poles
post #20 of 597
Thread Starter 
And now a question....

The two HVAC supplies are running on the outside walls of the HT....
This is the right one

and this is the left

The plan is to drop those into the soffits that will run the perimeter of the HT and run the flex duct to about the middle of the room (at the sides coming out the bottom of the soffit)

Does anyone have any suggestions/comments on how to do this.
the plan is to drop the ducts using flex into the soffits and then make the run to the middle of the midpoint in the soffit and place the register there. I was going to use flex/insulated 8" ducts and then wrap loosely with insulation and wrap with MLV.

Edited by fax6202 - 6/12/12 at 2:19pm
post #21 of 597
replace the metal duct up in the ceiling with flex. Attach the flex to a metal collar and bring through a hole in the drywall. Then attach your soffit flex duct to the end sticking through. Caulk around the perimeter of the metal collar. Build your soffit inside the drywalled room. Not sure I see a benefit of the MLV if the soffit is drywalled.

What I've done in the past is to attach the metal collar to the ceiling duct work and leave hanging up in the joist space. After the double layer is up on the ceiling cut a round hole and reach up and persuade the collar to join the party in the theater. I've also just cut a snug round hole and pulled the flex duct though the hole. Not totally sure which provides the best sound barrier

Don't forget you need a return or all this effort is wasted.
post #22 of 597
Thread Starter 
Thanks Big.

The return will be a dead vent that I am building in the back right corner of the room, the dead vent itself will be in the room adjacent. that is why I wanted to move the supplies to the middle of the room, i didnt want the supplies and return right in the same spot. I dont know if that makes an impact but I thought it might. Again, thanks for the comments.
post #23 of 597
Thread Starter 
A question.....

What are the options of hiding the surround speakers, other than concealing inside of a column. Are there other options and what are their limitations.

This is the theater that I plan to implement, at least very similar to this and I cannot think of how to house the surrounds since the columns will be completely hardwood.
post #24 of 597
Thread Starter 
A small change in plans, all of my beautiful DRY walnut is now going to become our living room and hallway floors! So says the wife... Now I am scrambling around to get all of the oak that I have, dried. I suppose I will end up kiln drying it if I need it sooner rather than later.
post #25 of 597
Originally Posted by fax6202 View Post

A question.....
What are the options of hiding the surround speakers, other than concealing inside of a column. Are there other options and what are their limitations.

Triad will custom match the grills of their on-wall surrounds to any fabric color so you can hide them in plain sight.

You can use in-walls and hide them behind a fabric wall, obviously there are limits of which fabrics you can use.

You can use in-walls and paint the grills the same color as the walls.

You can use In-ceiling speakers
post #26 of 597
Thread Starter 
Thanks Big

That gives me some options.
post #27 of 597
Thread Starter 
Decided that I am going to build the dead vent inside of the room, in the back corner. this will be behind the screen wall here Untitled.jpg

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to put the return in the front of the room so it is inconspicuous.
post #28 of 597
I have one of my two Dead Vents behind the screen wall. It's the return DV. I pull air through the screen wall. Since I have a furnace filter on the supply DV, I don't have much dust collecting on the screen wall fabric.
post #29 of 597
Thread Starter 
Hey Ted-

You have two dead vents? One for a supply and one return.

that brings me to another question, is one return and two supplies good enough for my size room. 20x16 roughly
post #30 of 597
That would be plenty. A lot depends on the size of the ducts and the pressure pulling / pushing. The flex duct increases resistance, so I have a fan in each DV. I run them each at 1/2 speed.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home

Gear mentioned in this thread: