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Kinetic River Cinema - Page 2

post #31 of 590
6/13/12 at 5:02pm
Thread Starter 
Ted-

where would you suggest that I put the intake vent. I would like to make it as hidden as possible with out affecting performance.
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post #32 of 590
6/13/12 at 5:47pm
Well, as I said I have my DV as well as the intake behind my screen wall and I get huge airflow. Another advantage imho, is that the fact that the vent opening is hidden means you don't need a grill cover. Airflow over grill covers are a big noise unless oversized or reduced speed. Mine is a 6" flex and no grill, all behind that screen wall.

In an unfiltered room, that could be quite a dust collector, I imagine. My screenwall is entirely black GOM.

Otherwise you might run the duct over the screen wall and port through one of the soffits. To the left or right of the screen, likely.
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post #33 of 590
6/13/12 at 7:14pm
Thread Starter 
So I take it the return has no issue drawing air through the screen and GOM on the screen wall. I really like that idea. One, it puts it on the opposite side of my supplies and it will be completely hidden. How close is the vent to the back side of the wall?
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post #34 of 590
6/14/12 at 7:09am
I have flex running along the ceiling from the DV to a corner where I wanted the air pulled. No issues.
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post #35 of 590
6/14/12 at 10:32am
Thread Starter 
Ok, thanks Ted. I have a good grasp of my HVAC runs, its all coming together.
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post #36 of 590
6/14/12 at 10:34am
Sorry for being ignorant, but have we sent you any SIMs on the topic of ventilation / mufflers, etc?
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post #37 of 590
6/14/12 at 10:58am
Thread Starter 
Ted-

I do have the SIMs on the dead vent, soffit, and ventilation. I dont think that I have the joist muffler SIM. Any SIM that you think I should have would be great if you could email them to me. Thanks Ted.
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post #38 of 590
6/14/12 at 11:04am
Well then. You have a new email!
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post #39 of 590
6/14/12 at 5:18pm
Thread Starter 
Still planning my HVAC runs..

I now think the way forward will be the two supplies in the rear of the room venting through the bottom of the soffit. I will build 2 dead vents in the front of the room behind the screen wall and the vents will be under the soffit.

A question....

I want to construct a hush box just in front of the rear soffit. Does anyone have a build that goes into detail concerning the venting inside the hush box. I have an idea but would like some more information.
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post #40 of 590
6/14/12 at 5:42pm
I don't have any tips on a hush box construction, but I do have a thought about your HVAC ducting. The traditional option (which probably has a strong argument that I don't know) is to have the supplies in the front, near the screen, and the returns in the rear of the room. The obvious advantage of this to me is that a return can be built into the hush box, so that you remove the heat from the projector without letting it out into the room.
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post #41 of 590
6/15/12 at 5:59pm
Thread Starter 
Fred-

I was thinking the same thing and I think you are absolutely correct. However I wanted to utilize the space behind the screen wall to build my dead vents. Space is limited in the back and I was really trying to avoid the dead vent in the adjacent room.
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post #42 of 590
6/15/12 at 6:01pm
Thread Starter 
QUESTION..............

Lutron grahic eye - I am wiring my HT now. My question is how do I wire the graphic eye. do all of my home runs for the circuits I want to control terminate at the graphic eye or should those home runs go to my panel and then wire the graphic eye reaching back to the panel. I looked up and down on the lutron site and could not find an explanation, and I cannot read wiring diagrams to well. Thanks.
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post #43 of 590
6/16/12 at 7:37am
If you have, say four zones to control, you'll run four load leads home into the GE box. You'll also run one line (supply) lead from the breaker. All five (four load, plus one line) common conductors will get joined in the box and all five ground will get joined in the box. The hot conductors will get connected to the various points on the GE unit. This isn't made terribly clear in the definitive thread - I think they assume you understand this going in. You can find some good pictures here and there of people doing it, and if you buy the unit new, it will come with diagrams in the box that should be clear.

I am not an electrician and am not qualified to give you real advice on the subject, but that's how I've seen it done and come to understand it. Naturally, if you don't have confidence that you are doing it properly and safely, hire someone who is licensed - also experienced, since a normal electrician has probably never done it before either.
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post #44 of 590
6/16/12 at 8:05am
I've taken this image from the installation guide for a 3000 series Grafik Eye unit. http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/032188a.pdf

As I noted in the image, the junctions are normally made with wire nuts, one per combination. With a 6 zone unit, finding a wire nut to hold 7 12 gauge wires can be next to impossible, so some code-compliant ingenuity is in order. Also, even with the deeper masonry box that is normally recommended, the box gets very tight. I've read that some people have mounted additional junction boxes near the main unit, to make combining the neutrals and combining the grounds easier. I believe for code, you need access to any of these junctions, so if you plan to do that, check with someone qualified.
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post #45 of 590
6/16/12 at 9:18am
A red wire connector will join 5 #12. If you have a choice, I would run 14 for the lighting.

You cannot use your panelboard as a junction box for the lighting. You need to run the wiring to the 4-gang box housing the GE, *or* to a separate junction box.

If you use a separate junction box, you run the 4 loads, 1 line, one grounded (neutral) and one grounding (unless you use EMT or FMC <60") conductor from the junction to the GE box.

With the deeper boxes (Mine were 3-1/2" deep) and proper wiring technique you should be able to do it all with one 4-gang box.
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post #46 of 590
6/16/12 at 9:38am
Tim if you use 14 for the lighting doesn't that mean that you need to run a 14 line to the GE and put it on a 15 amp breaker. If you run 12 throughout then you can put in a 20 amp breaker and have a little more headroom for everything you might want to do with GE. My understanding is that you can't mix wire size on a given circuit.
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post #47 of 590
6/16/12 at 10:33am
Thread Starter 
Thanks everyone for the comments and insight. Basically what I am doing is running all the wires throughout the HT myself, a family member who is an electrician will tie it all in. I just needed to get things in place before he comes. So from what I gather if I have a 4 zone GE, then all 4 zones will terminate at the GE and I will have 1 home run from the GE to the CB panel. Is that correct?
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post #48 of 590
6/16/12 at 12:55pm
Thread Starter 
I picked up the rest of my oak today. I will use this for trimming out the rest of the basement, only walnut in the HT.
DSC00023.jpg
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post #49 of 590
6/17/12 at 4:47pm
Thread Starter 
16 hours over the weekend. I actually got a lot done but it sure doesn't look like it.

I finished up all of the electrical runs in the basement, not the HT.
I build the last wall for the theater, now it feels more like a dedicated room, and I know it will even more when the drywall goes up in the next few weeks.
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This is a shot from the back looking at the screen wall
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I am going to build 2 dead vents behind the screen wall, one on each side in the corner. These two will serve as my returns.

I am also trying to finalize my star ceiling dimensions. The plan is for the soffits in the front and sides to run in 2', the rear soffit a bit more because it will also house the hush box. This will give me a star ceiling of 12x10. But nothing concrete yet. My concern is that the only size sheets of MDF I can find are 4x8 and 4x10. I would really like to avoid a bunch of seams up there, but we'll see.

And Lastly....I HAVE got to find a better home for my tools. I dont want to run up in the garage every time I need something, but this is getting ridiculous
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post #50 of 590
6/17/12 at 4:55pm
I used one of these for my basement project and just moved it from room to room, just keep the top clear. I actually now have a couple in the garage, and three in the basement for storage.
So handy and when you need to clean or make more room in a particular area they are on wheels.

387307.jpg

Costco, Sams's club have them.
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post #51 of 590
6/17/12 at 5:06pm
Thread Starter 
thats a really good idea BIG, thanks. It would definitely be nice to just roll it around as needed.
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post #52 of 590
6/18/12 at 5:49am
Sorry I'm late to the party, is the layout in post 16 the one you are going with?
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post #53 of 590
6/18/12 at 8:12am
Thread Starter 
J_P_A -

Yes that would be the layout of the right half of my basement. There will be one door on the left going into that room, but open to the right. I wanted to keep it as open as I could and keep the HT isolated, which I did as there is only one 32" door leading to the HT.
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post #54 of 590
6/18/12 at 12:28pm
Thread Starter 
A star ceiling question.....

How would putting a layer of OSB up before DD help in securing the sheets of MDF for the star ceiling? Also, I know that the OSB and DD have to be fastened to the channel, but would that also include the MDF sheets too. Others have noted the ceiling OSB and that it really helped, I am just unaware of "how". Thanks.
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post #55 of 590
6/18/12 at 6:59pm
Thread Starter 
Got a few things done tonight. Installed my sub panel
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And the UPS man brought me my drywall assistant
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Hope to start dry walling in the next two weeks!
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post #56 of 590
6/19/12 at 7:24pm
Thread Starter 
I got a bit done today. I framed my equipment closet which sits right outside the theater.

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Nothing fancy, I just didnt want a block closet

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post #57 of 590
6/20/12 at 6:00pm
Thread Starter 
Question.....

Does anyone have any recommendations on an In-Line exhaust fan. I need one to vent my hush box. Fan will reside outside the room inside the equipment closet. I would also like to get a fan that could possibly vent both the hush box and the equip room, versus having two.

Thoughts..........
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post #58 of 590
6/20/12 at 7:57pm
The panasonic whisper line of fans seem to be pretty popular here, and are supposedly very quiet. They have several inline fans with various cfm ratings. Here's link to the page with the different models.
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post #59 of 590
6/20/12 at 8:06pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks JPA, you are the second one who commented on those fans. I may have to check them out some more.
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post #60 of 590
6/21/12 at 5:32pm
Thread Starter 
Tonight's issue I had to find a solution for. The two load bearing columns under the I-Beam in this picture
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Now I could have just framed them and tied them into the soffit above, but i wanted to do a bit more. I didnt want any part of the framing to come in contact with the columns. I started by just putting up some blocking above and to the sides of the columns
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I used angle brackets to attach the 2 2x4's to the blocking.
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This enabled me to just let them hang from the soffit with about 1/8 gap at the bottom.
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I then used 3/4 OSB to attach each side
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I stuffed the cavity with fiberglass insulation, but made sure not to compact it.
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And just sealed it up
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This may all have been a bit of overkill, but I am not taking any chances with acoustics. With the column framing just hanging from the soffit there is no contact with the column itself. The insulation inside should keep it from making contact. Next I will hit the seams with some acoustic calk and also around the edges at the bottom.

And then it will get the full treatment of channel, OSB, DD, GG along with the rest of the room.
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