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Kinetic River Cinema - Page 11

post #301 of 590
Thread Starter 
Now some pictures.

Dont know if anyone is following this thread but the lack of pictures is getting out of control. More interesting things coming soon.

This will keep me busy all weekend; all 212 of them


I also got my return done for the most part.
This is the adjacent rooms soffit used to get the return back to the furnace



And the return in the theater. Still have to run the flex to the back of the room

Edited by fax6202 - 8/8/12 at 5:16pm
post #302 of 590
Thread Starter 
One down......Four to go

post #303 of 590
Very nice. Man you are going to be drowning in drywall dust in no time.
post #304 of 590
Thread Starter 
Indeed. I think I am going to go OSB+Drywall, instead of DD. Had a chat with John and Ted and wont lose any noticeable soundproofing going in this direction.
post #305 of 590
Quote:
Originally Posted by fax6202 View Post

Indeed. I think I am going to go OSB+Drywall, instead of DD. Had a chat with John and Ted and wont lose any noticeable soundproofing going in this direction.

Are you using 1/2" OSB and 5/8" drywall or are you going with a 5/8" or 3/4" OSB?
post #306 of 590
Thread Starter 
19/32 OSB and 5/8 drywall
post #307 of 590
Thread Starter 
Took off from work an hour early, got home and worked for about 4.5 hours and.......Clips and Channel are done!

After the ceiling was done it went fairly fast. Once I had the back wall done I just used the laser level and it went flying by.



post #308 of 590
Looks great. You will have drywall up before you know it.
post #309 of 590
Looks really nice. Skinning that room with the OSB is going to make a huge difference.
post #310 of 590
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Looks great. You will have drywall up before you know it.

Thanks Nick
post #311 of 590
Thread Starter 
Tim-

Definitely did not want to be forced to hit the channel for all of the soffits. I didnt feel comfortable with just DD holding up the soffits and columns..
post #312 of 590
Smart move. Really takes all guess work out of your anchor points for everything you attach, including soffits and finish carpentry. I will say that I still always marked by resilient channel locations so I could avoid anchoring to it for anything beyond the initial OSB layer.
post #313 of 590
Thread Starter 
good idea. I will definitely do that.

I have to say, once the ceiling was done w/ having to measure non-stop; the walls flew by using my laser level.
post #314 of 590
Keep in mind that if you only secure the first OSB layer to the channel (Hat Channel, not Resilient Channel), then the drywall is only hanging on the OSB. The screws that you shot into the channel are now doing double duty. You might want to double up on the screws in that OSB layer, and even then, not sure how a building inspector might view that.
post #315 of 590
Thread Starter 
Ok, thanks Ted. I think I will probably do a little of both. More screws and some of those screws into the channel.
post #316 of 590
Thread Starter 
The latest on the IB riser project....below are some thoughts from the IB forum......

You're going to implement a riser enclosed sub, and integrate it into a Triad based system in a 3k cube room. The 89dB sensitivity LCR's have a double 6.5" MTM config, accompanied by a 500watt 12" sub. A nice system however clearly the need for more bottom end is apparent;.... enter the riser sub.

To really achieve the full benefits of an IB alignment (responsiveness, ULF sensitivity, absence of latent/reflected energy) the baffle and backspace enclosing the rear-wave of the drivers needs to be acoustically infinitely large. Or, ideally as large as possible perhaps as large as the listening space itself. The rear wave of the driver needs to be free from the typical air compression effects that are associated with typical small sealed subwoofers.

Now with your riser, I'm not convinced your backspace is big enough to fully benefit from an IB alignment. That doesn't mean this approach is a bad idea. You can still make the backspace as large as possible, kind of a quasi-IB, and likely EQ in the remaining shaping. There are significant caveats though. Typical IB drivers don't have big magnetic motors, and placing them into undersized enclosures and EQ'ing in the difference could become problematic. A full size driver motor, optimized for normal sealed use may be a better option, but I don't know.

After you no for certain the internal volume of the riser cavity that each driver will see acoustically, then you can make that determination. Also, enclosures that large in any one direction can elicit internal reflections/resonances, so properly damped areas with batting/insulation would be in order. This project is not a trivial, typical DIY effort. It's doable,.. certainly, but success will depend on extensive planning, and precise execution.

Now once built and operational, the optimizing process begins. This, as Thomas pointed out, will pose obstacles as well. Thomas suggested the sub be used as a midbass module, keeping the deep stuff out of it and allowing the riser sub(s) to cover that range. This retains upper bass and the associated imaging cues up front and tied to the LCR's. You may find another 12" sub up front would help, but I don't know. Perhaps, if you high pass the 12", it could have the impact and response needed. Placement would be key, as you'd be limited to essentially right up front and center, and if nulls are encountered in it's range (common), it's got little help.

The mains, at 89dB, and single 500 watt 12" sub, definitely need some augmentation as high up as localization will allow. This determination of crossover frequency, unfortunately, will need to be performed after the fact. There's all sorts of opinion, but each room is different, and you're just going to need to experiment upon completion.
post #317 of 590
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Keep in mind that if you only secure the first OSB layer to the channel (Hat Channel, not Resilient Channel), then the drywall is only hanging on the OSB. The screws that you shot into the channel are now doing double duty. You might want to double up on the screws in that OSB layer, and even then, not sure how a building inspector might view that.

My last two theaters were built with the drywall attached to the OSB with 24-32 drywall screws per 4x8 sheet of drywall. However, I did fail to mention that I used 1.25" fine thread screws at 12" OC when attaching the OSB to the resilient channel. Each screw has 281 pounds of shearing force, so given that you will be using about 20 screws per 4'x8' (or 9') sheet, you will have 5620 pounds of force holding each sheet of OSB in place. Given the weight of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue at maybe 75 pounds per total weight....the OSB attached to the resilient channel has 2.5 tons of headroom per board so you do not have to make direct connection through the drywall and OSB into the resilient channel.

Because of this math I have never hung the drywall all the way through to the resilient channel to preserve as much decoupling as possible. And I have proceeded to hang all kinds of finish carpentry, speakers, soffits, lighting, etc. with absolutely no problems whatsoever, so another "don't worry about it" vote from me here. smile.gif

Here's a handy document with the back-up info on the shearing strengths: http://www.scafco.com/stud/loginDoc/pdf/Shear%20Values.pdf

I am sure you are already at 12" OC for the ceiling since it is a true hanging load, but you could go to as close as 8" OC if you go the overkill route, fyi.
post #318 of 590
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Because of this math I have never hung the drywall all the way through to the resilient channel to preserve as much decoupling as possible. And I have proceeded to hang all kinds of finish carpentry, speakers, soffits, lighting, etc. with absolutely no problems whatsoever, so another "don't worry about it" vote from me here. smile.gif
Here's a handy document with the back-up info on the shearing strengths: http://www.scafco.com/stud/loginDoc/pdf/Shear%20Values.pdf
I am sure you are already at 12" OC for the ceiling since it is a true hanging load, but you could go to as close as 8" OC if you go the overkill route, fyi.

Works for me, makes life easier.

On another note....DRYWALL in the rest of the basement. The wife is on me about finishing the rest of the basement so I took off the next two days and bribed my brother and two buddies to come over and hang drywall, then finish. I was originally subbing it out, but the guy called today and said it would be another 4 weeks. Tired of waiting I am just going to bite the bullet and do it myself.

Here we go......

post #319 of 590
I hope you were a drywall finisher over the summers because that is a huge project if you don't do a lot of finish work. I'd be down with hanging it and putting up the corner bead....maybe even doing the taping and first coat but to get the finish to look professional (especially on the butt joints) it just takes me forever. Good luck!

BTW - what did your HVAC guy come back with on the heat loss calculations / dampers / in-line fan stuff?
post #320 of 590
Quote:
Originally Posted by fax6202 View Post

....and likely EQ in the remaining shaping.

Translation - pricey outboard EQ / DSP which typically requires hiring a professional (about $1200) with the right type of measurement equipment to dial it in correctly, blend it with your system and achieve as flat room response as possible. Most built-in EQs (even Audyssey) lacks the fine control needed for this level of audio refinement.
post #321 of 590
The 25 gauge channel is the weak link. Screw a drywall screw into the proper channel, then grab the screw with pliers and pull. The channel will lose. We recommend to screw per local code.
post #322 of 590
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I hope you were a drywall finisher over the summers because that is a huge project if you don't do a lot of finish work. I'd be down with hanging it and putting up the corner bead....maybe even doing the taping and first coat but to get the finish to look professional (especially on the butt joints) it just takes me forever. Good luck!
BTW - what did your HVAC guy come back with on the heat loss calculations / dampers / in-line fan stuff?

I have done quite a bit of drywall, just not close to the scale of what is waiting for me. Fortunately my brother can finish as well. But yes, it will take me some time to finish. But there will be 4 of us, hopefully a fifth w/ my dad joining the fray. We are also borrowing a bazooka and heaters.

NADDA on the hvac. But...I have access to do anything i need to even after the drywall in the rest of the basement goes up. at first I thought that wasnt going to be possible but now it is. Just had to do a little rearranging.
post #323 of 590
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Translation - pricey outboard EQ / DSP which typically requires hiring a professional (about $1200) with the right type of measurement equipment to dial it in correctly, blend it with your system and achieve as flat room response as possible. Most built-in EQs (even Audyssey) lacks the fine control needed for this level of audio refinement.

I am starting to fold on this venture. I may take the safe route and go with a second or maybe third sub in the future.
post #324 of 590
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

The 25 gauge channel is the weak link. Screw a drywall screw into the proper channel, then grab the screw with pliers and pull. The channel will lose. We recommend to screw per local code.

You're absolutely correct Ted. But virtually all of the force of the load for the walls is straight down and not falling away, despite the drywall hanging only on the OSB. Nevertheless, despite local code here of 16 OC, I give myself a bit more "piece of mind" in avoiding the scenario you propose by always using 12" OC on the walls.

Now is the case of the ceiling, that is definitely a place to up things to 8" OC and possibly attaching both layers to the RC at a handful of contact points. The theater I will be building will have 1/2" T&G plywood on the ceiling (attached to resilient channel), followed by Green Glue and 5/8" Drywall. But I am also going to suspend a full-blown fiber optic star ceiling which will use sheets of 3/4" OSB plus my framed soffit skinned with OSB / Green Glue / Drywall. That's going to be a lot of weight and I definitely don't want any of it loosening one bit.
post #325 of 590
You keep mentioning resilient channel. Are you really planning to use resilient channel or are you using clips and channels?
post #326 of 590
Thread Starter 
My wife's 18' x 13' x 8' walk in closet is finished. This is a surprise, she has no idea that I am building this room out for her; I mean where else is she going to put her 200 pairs of shoes (not joking at that number).....closet, bathroom, and two rooms to go!



post #327 of 590
I was thinking about showing my wife this thread for some ideas when we redo our theater, but there goes that plan. rolleyes.gif
post #328 of 590
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

You keep mentioning resilient channel. Are you really planning to use resilient channel or are you using clips and channels?

Sorry - clips and hat track. Not RC-1.
post #329 of 590
Whew! biggrin.gif
post #330 of 590
Thread Starter 
14 hour day today. Six of us got all the drywall hung, everything but the inside corners taped. More mud tomorrow, skim coat Saturday, sand on Sunday. Here is how everything went down......I decided to sub this portion out, and then the contractor who is also someone I know fairly well had to postpone for a month. So I decided to just do it myself. But then my brother, dad, and three buddies decided to lend a hand. None of us does this for a living, but we are all very handy and some of us have worked in various trades in college and when younger.

Today went great....we got a ton finished. The sooner I can get all this done the better. I really want to devote my time to the HT.

Will post some pics when my camera gets charged. Nothing exciting at all just another room w/ drywall. This is more for my own documentation of the entire project.
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