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Reschannel or not

post #1 of 17
6/8/12 at 6:44am
Thread Starter 
Hi,

I am building a home theater room and it is located below two bedrooms in my basement. I was wanting to sound proof the ceiling as much as possible. I was thinking of resilient channel with 2 layers of 1/2" drywall sandwiching green glue. I am not sure about the res channel as I have heard it doesnt help with low frequencies.

Should I skip the res channel as it wont be that effective?

Does light weight drywall have the same stc as the regular stuff?? (regular is getting harder to find around here)

It doesn't look like I can do hat channel and clips as I am in Canada and the channel they sell at local stores is too big to fit the standard clips.

Any suggestions are appreciated. I am not trying to "sound proof" just do my best with the limited budget I have.

Thanks, Tony
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post #2 of 17
6/8/12 at 7:22am
Tony,

Forget the Resilient Channel for many reasons.

Channel manufacturers have almost all gone to a width of almost 2 3/4", so that's what everyone is using with the clips.

The heaviest drywall possible is the goal. 5/8" not 1/2"
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post #3 of 17
6/8/12 at 10:26am
Thread Starter 
As ceiling height (6'8" without floor to ceiling joist) and cost are both factors I am not able to go the full on furring channel, clips, double 5/8" with green glue.

I am probably able to do either double 5/8" drywall with green glue attached directly to the joists. (probably the most expensive option for the cost of the GG and 5/8 DW)

Or I can do the furring strip on clips with a single layer of 5/8 DW. (this is probably the least expensive and leaves me the option of adding another layer of DW in the future with GG if I find the ceiling height is okay and when I have the money.)

I looked into the clips and it seems that most places do not have clips that can hold 2.75" furring channel. I don't mind ordering these from somewhere if I can find the right ones but I would prefer to get some from in Canada as shipping can sometimes be as much as the product just to get things here.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks a ton,

Tony
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post #4 of 17
6/8/12 at 10:37am
Likely the widest width channel you'll find is 1 23/32". I'm not aware of any clip manufacturer that will not accept this channel.
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post #5 of 17
6/8/12 at 2:18pm
Thread Starter 
I have found the materials. I might just bite the bullet and do it right. (double 5/8", gg and furring channel with clips.) It will probably reduce my ceiling height to 6"5" but at least it won't matter when you are sitting down!! ;-)

Thanks for the help, Tony
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post #6 of 17
6/8/12 at 2:32pm
use blocking to preserve head room (one of Teds diagrams)

rasied-blocking-detail.jpg
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post #7 of 17
6/9/12 at 12:43pm
Thread Starter 
My God that's brilliant!! I am definitely going to go with that.

Now a couple of more questions.

What about mounting the projector??
Can I just mount it to the double floating drywall with some drywall screws or anchors??
How much deflection does the ceiling have and will it cause the projector to move and the screen to shake??

What about lighting?
I was going to do recessed in ceiling lighting. But I think that will defeat all the sound proofing I have done.
Should I mount sconces on the wall??
Is there anyway to have recessed lighting and maintain the sound proofing??

Thanks for all the help so far. I am really getting tons of help from this post.

Tony
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post #8 of 17
6/9/12 at 2:36pm
From another thread today:

Other tips for sound containment.

Plan a design that minimizes penetrations in the drywall bunker, locate switches, outlets and light fixtures inside the room using columns, stage and riser as locations for electrical boxes. If you must install an electrical gang box or recessed lighting, plan for backer boxes or putty pads to avoid turning your room into swiss cheese. Bring all your wiring into the theater through small holes and caulk around the holes and wires.

Think about your HVAC. Plan duct work that doesn't transfer sound to the rest of the house. Plan to address the holes you cut into the room to bring the ductwork into the theater. If you can run your duct work and plenums inside soffits running longitudinally and separated from the entrance points you can reduce the sound escaping. Line the soffits with acoustically absorbent material. Plan enough HVAC, you will need to cool the theater in the winter. Be aware that air flow through the ducts and vent grills can be very noisy in an otherwise quiet theater room You need to oversize your ductwork and plenums to avoid this problem.

Frame and drywall a basic box first. Build the stage, riser, soffits and columns inside the drywall bunker

Fill the stage with sand and leave a gap between the framing and the finished walls.

Buy a 1 3/4 thick solid core door on a custom jam to accommodate your extra thick walls. Plan for perimeter door seals and an automatic door bottom. See Ted.

Other things, Use a 4x4 ft (or bigger) piece of 5/8 plywood as the first ceiling layer in the area where the projector will be hung. Put an outlet in the plywood with an old work box and back butter it with a putty pad just before you lift the plywood into place. Run a 1 1/2 to 2 inch electrical conduit from the equipment location to the projector area. Cut a hole in the plywood for the conduit.
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post #9 of 17
6/9/12 at 4:58pm
There's some great tips and advice in this thread, but what is going to be done with the walls of the theater? If you go through the effort of treating the ceiling but leave the walls as a single layer of drywall then sound will enter/exit the room through those surfaces and flank around your efforts on the ceiling.
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post #10 of 17
6/9/12 at 5:23pm
Yes, you need to do all the walls and ceiling or else you are just wasting your money.
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post #11 of 17
6/9/12 at 9:59pm
Thread Starter 
Hmmmmm, I was only worried about sound travelling directly up as there are bedrooms above. The rest of the basement is unfinished and I am not worried about sound penetrating there. Although, I was going to do a solid core door.

I was going to use safe n sound in the one interior wall. The other 3 walls are exterior with 3 feet of it being concrete foundation and then 2x4 exterior wall (insulated). There will be a 2x6 insulated wall in side this wall. Essential a room within a room on 3 sides.

What about the header for the 2x6 wall should it have some type of dampening material between it and the floor joists??



This is what I was thinking about for ducting. There is one duct to each bedroom above the theater room and one in the ceiling of the theater room.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/flexible-insulated-ducting-6-inch-x-25-foot/959965

Thanks for all the great suggestions.

Tony
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post #12 of 17
6/10/12 at 1:58pm
Ok, here goes your home work assignment. Do this in a room with a really nice carpet.

Find a nice piece of plexiglass or piece of glass like what you'd use on the bottom of an aquarium. (The rest of you can see where this is going.)
Get a paper bag ... get two (room within a room and all that). Put one bag inside the other and place that assembly over the glass/plastic plate.
Get some Rit dye ... I suggest purple ... and mix it in a gallon of water.
Pour the gallon of water into the paper bags.
What leaks on to your very nice carpet resembles the amount of sound that will flank out of your room if you do not sound isolate the walls.
If you're married, I suggest you take a long walk.

Here's an article on that ... http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-articles/flanking/

Granted you're on a budget, money is tight, etc. Understand, just doing the ceiling is a waste of money. So if you cannot do the walls, use that money somewhere else.
If you do the walls properly, that may hit your budget more than you'd want. On the other hand, you can get a better projector later, better speakers later; but, you cannot fix the walls later.
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post #13 of 17
6/11/12 at 6:29am
Thread Starter 
I understand. I will see what I can do about the walls. Might just be able to do hat channel and clips. Add al ayer of dw and gg later.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I have learned a lot from this thread and am reading the "what I would have done differently" thread.

Thanks again,

Tony
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post #14 of 17
6/11/12 at 7:46am
Thread Starter 
Another problem I have thought about. All of me speakers are inn wall with two in ceiling rears. How does the furring channel and clips affect the output of the speakers?? I assume the sound will escape the roof through the holes in the wall to house ther speakers. I am going to have to pay special attention to these areas for stopping the sound from travelling up and out. Any suggesions??

Thanks, Tony
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post #15 of 17
6/11/12 at 8:34am
Build back boxes ... www.soundproofingcompany.com has plans (designed for recessed lights) which will work for speakers as well.
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post #16 of 17
6/11/12 at 11:23am
On the ceiling you can also use the Resilmount A96R instead of standard clips. No blocking between joists required to get the same effect of hiding most of the hat channel in the ceiling.
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post #17 of 17
6/11/12 at 11:34am
Extended clips are an option. The cost difference might not be a factor
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