Official Samsung UNXXES7100 Thread. - Page 51

+1, I use Judder 0 and Blur 10 when I use Custom for AMP.

One other place that is excellent in price and quality is www.mycablemart.com. One other advise is that if you are planning on using 3D features your HDMI cables need to be version 1.4 to handle the amount of data. With mycablemart there are 3 different cables (all 1.4 compliant); regular HDMI, HDMI Extreme and HDMI Elite. I recommend the Extreme which is 26 gauge and can handle up to 13.2 Gbps of data. You don't need more than that.

Not much have been said regarding 3D playback. I have the 7150. Is it normal for some headache after watching in 3D? It's not really a headache but more like yours eyes feeling tired. Our kids have said nothing about their eyes getting tired but probably us old folks is harder on the eyes. Also, anyone experiencing this "ghost" or "crosstalk" on 3D title? I have not paid attention to this but I will check it out. Thanks!
Edited by dcontto - 1/17/13 at 12:08pm

Film mode. From Samsung FAQ/How to ..

Film mode is for 1080i also.

not that I can see, set your colors up britness etc in game mode, then copy them down and over to the setting you'd like turn off all the video processing as you saw and turn on the automotion plus, there is only a few games I have to be in game mode for and they are not on the ps3 but the x360, this would be the gears of war series if not in game mode I can not active reload, this was more than you needed to know, sorry.

My settings are usually in standard with AMP set to clear

When buying HDMI cables you may have difficulty buying or finding cables numbered 1.4 and I do not want to add to the confusion

All of the HDMI cables are stamped HDMI and are 1.4

HDMI abandonend the numbering system about 1 year ago, it use to be 1.3 and 1.4.

When they brought out the 1.4 cables they were stamped HDMI and that is now the standard

So all the cables that are stamped hdmi are 3 D compliant
Edited by James T - 1/18/13 at 9:23am

Hey guys how does the micro dimming handle flashlighting? Also how is the input lag?

I got the sony hx850 with no flashlighting and good input lag. It has 1 dead pixel that i can hardly notice ever but still kinda bothers me.

They have no more hx850s to swap so if i returned i was thinking about this set but wasnt sure. Seems like id have to get the es8000 to match my 850s uniformity

My ES7100 is Very uniform, with zero flashlighting.

Also there is no clouding or banding....

I have an October Build US02 panel.

I use Movie mode most of the time, only Standard has micro-dimming.

Yah that bothers me that only one mode has it. Ud think movie where u watch letter boxed material It could be enabled

Micro dimming is zoned contrast processing of the input signal. It cannot compensate for a set with bad flashlighting issues, as there is no way for it to detect this kind of problem.

In my testing, input lag is about 7 frames, or 116ms. I haven't thoroughly tested game mode yet, but its definitely quicker, no more than 2 or 3 frames (33-50ms).
(Edit: this is using HDMI2 in standard mode, and AMP had no effect on overall input lag)


I never thought giving the panel time to work out flashlighting issues would actually work, but it did all by itself. I bought my 55 on black friday, and it had some pretty obvious flashlighting. A month later it smoothed into clouding. Now today, it is more like a slight fade, unnoticeable in normal viewing. Crazy...

Hey guys, lots of information in this thread. I have decided to buy the 60ES7100 tomorrow. I know their are some concerns with firmware etc, update not to update and so on. So here is my question. When I set the TV up what do I need to do to resolve or avoid the potential issues ? Im ok with not having it connected to the internet period. However I would ideally like to use the netflix function and not interested in the other apps

All systems are go no problem with software or firmware

The current firmware is 1025

Thanks a lot. Just did the update actually to 1025 because I was having a problem with the sound bar I purchased and thought maybe the fw update on the tv would fix the issue but it didn't.

I bought this tv with the HW-E551 sound bar and all is good except for this....I turn the tv off and the sound bar turns off which is great but when i turn the tv back on, the sound bar does not turn on. I looked up under the device list for anynet+ and my sound bar is not showing there which I assume is the problem. AnyNet+ is on, on both the tv and the sound bar, so I don't know what's going on. Kinda annoying.

Any suggestions?

I believe when the TV is OFF, the attatched device (My Blu-Rays, the sound Bar I think, etc) will Power On the TV when it is powered on. When you shut the TV OFF when external devices are also ON and attatched, they will also turn OFF if the software is set up as above post for all devices. But not the other way around though as far as I have seen in actual use.

3D watching will cause eye strain, but how much depends on a lot of factors based on the person, but probably the most common denominator is the quality of the 3D material. For example, a movie like Avatar (made specifically for 3D) should cause less eyestrain than say a quick and cheap converted movie.

As for crosstalk I have experienced some, but not a ton, again depending on the movie. For example I can see crosstalk when watching the Avengers, but I didn't see any when watching Avatar.

Overall I think the 7100 is a pretty darn good 3D TV.

Side note: don't quote me on the age, but I believe kids under 4 should not watch 3D as their eyes aren't fully developed.

Take a look at the Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) options in the TV menu. There is a selection that will disable the TV from sending the "off" signal to attached devices.

Note that Samsung sound bars that support Anynet+ can be turned off with Anynet+ but cannot be turned back on with Anynet+. If you disable the "off" command as I stated above, you can just leave the sound bar on. The only way to turn the sound bar on AND off with the TV is to use the optical TosLink connection for audio input from the TV but then you loose the advantages of HDMI ARC (Audio Return Channel). I argued with Samsung support about HDMI turning on the sound bar when the TV is turned on but according to them the current hardware design doesn't allow it so it's not something they can fix in the sound bar firmware.

Technically, the HDMI-CEC standard doesn't have and command to turn on devices from an HDMI output - only from an HDMI input. However, I have seen some manufacturers implement turning on an HDMI connected component when a signal is detected on an HDMI output. Samsung sound bars do not.

The suggestion I have is give up. I have the 7100 with a E450... there is no solution to your dilemma. With HDMI audio return on the soundbar out port with CEC and AnyNet turned on, you have the best of that solution. The next try would be going Optical Input to the sound bar via TOSLink and turn off AnyNet and turn-off sound on the TV (or you will get both and often, out of sync if you use sync control on the sound bar). Here you will be using D.IN only. Then your TV and bar should turn on with the TV on control but the bar won't turn off with the control. It will turn off automatically without an Optical signal after 20 min. But note that you might loose volume control with the TV remote.

Bottom line, Samsung bombed this one badly. Well documented bomb at that. One could hope that a software update for both will allow HDMI-CEC to work as designed. One day. I have decided to simply keep using the HDMI-CEC with the HDMI Port 2 on the TV along with AnyNet. The bar will report TV ARC. Volume with TV remote works... Off works. TV sound works and then goes off when the bar is turned on.

AGE

Hey all,

So Ive had my 55ES7100 since the 9th and I am still within the 30 day return policy at BB. I've been testing my set to the max. Grey tests, DVD movie tests, etc. I loaded up different shades of a full grey screen on my PS3. And can notice a slight banding, not really noticeable during normal viewing. I've also done the "built in" screen test. The picture test with the kids on the beach. The colours are very vibrant and no issues I can see.

I'm new to LED tvs. I know the ES7100 are Edge-Lit. I notice on the top/bottom of the screen. There is kind of a lighter shade when normal viewing. Kinda like a strip of LED's shining through the top/bottom edge, is this normal. Didn't really notice this when I was watvching the demo's at BestBuy in store.

I'm thinking of exchanging my set for a newer manfucatured set to see if these small issues would be resolved. I've updated my firmware to 1025 and my set is manufactured in August.

Good luck with that search, many of us like 7100 like me and others do not it is all in the eye of the beholder.

All side lite sets have problems some worse than others. I have a sony and I have more flashlighting with that compared to to the Samsung.

One way around it is to buy a top end sony xbr which has back lighting depending on the size the price would be 4to $5,000.00.

Not many manufacturers manufacture a back lite set. just because of cost and the current market conditions as related to the sale of the set in the marketplace.

I do not believe Samsung does a back lit set but I stand to be corrected.

If you go to plasma the videofile choice in many cases you are faced with image retention and buzzing,also a picture not as bright.
CNET top choice for 2012 was the Sony 850 but if you check the forum on this website you will see there are compalints and issues.

Many of the sets are fraught with problems and you have to make an informed decision based on all the facts.

The 2013 are just around the corner perhaps they may be something better and newer,of course they will cost more.

Good luck on your search for a better TV.

The 55ES7100 is $1500 at BestBuy now. Same price as the toned down 7003. Pretty sweet deal.

i see the price for this bad boy just dropped; but i only want to purchase it if it is evolution kit compatible; does anybody know for sure??

The 7100 does not support the Evolution Kit. Only the 7500 and 8000 series supports the EK.

UGH not the answer i wanted to hear; so is there any point to buy this tv since the hub is terrible; at least from the reviews in this thread or should i wait for the f7000 or f8000 or is this tv worth the sale price of 1800 via the big river?
Edited by RawisTheGameHhH - 1/20/13 at 11:38am

Thank you for the feedback! Interesting you mention kids under 4. We have a 6 and 7 year old and no problem but our 2 year old refuses to use the 3D glass, so instinctively, I guess it was a good thing!

I do agree that 3D on this set is terrific! I'm on my 3rd set after exchange then because of significant price drops! But it seemed to me the first set 3D was more clear, sharper and 3D perception was deeper. Maybe it was my first impression.

I recently purchased the un60es6100 series. I am debating purchasing the 7100 series. I really do not care that much about 3d. I watch mostly sports and movies. Is there a huge difference in picture quality?

I was able to price match today's price with the original purchase I made for this TV in November at Best Buy. Saved me $100!!

How do I know not having seen your 6100. I have freinds with a 6000 and it had a nice picture.

I would suggest that you get youself into a Best Buy store/Sears and look at the models . It is the end of the season and all the Samsungs are on sale.

Go to post 1447 and you can see what the 7100 has in the way of options that the 6100 does not have if you go to the samsung site you can compare models you can on the Best buy
One of the major differances is the 7100 has local dimming which makes the picture darker

You will have to make an informed decision based on all the facts and prices
Edited by James T - 1/20/13 at 6:39pm

The ES7100 has a brighter picture, 240Hz, Ultra Clear Panel and 3D.

If you like your ES6100 and its problem free...consider keeping it.

So just an update to my #1 issue with my Harmony 650 remote, just incase somebody else has the issue. I found this post that worked for me http://www.avforums.com/forums/5127689-post1.html

Only difference was that my inputs were labeled "InputTV", "InputHDMI1" and "InputComponent"