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Official Samsung UNXXES7100 Thread. - Page 60

post #1771 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tukai Sen View Post

I just bought this TV last night and am pretty excited. I read through a lot of posts and will refer to post 631 for calibrations. My family plays a lot of games on the 360/PS3/WIIU. I would greatly appreciate some advice on recommended gaming settings. We play what most others do; Call of Duty/Halo/Madden/Mario games so any help with getting the most out of first person shooter would be great. I went thru about 400 posts (631-1006) and didn't see anything, but I may have missed it.

My settings:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1414638/official-samsung-unxxes7100-thread/1320#post_22789840
post #1772 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsk116 View Post

I know I will kick myself whoever figures out my small dilemma.
I have my 7100 connected via one HDMI cable to my Yamaha RX-A2000. All other sources connect to the 2000. When I power up my home theater I have audio for a few seconds and then the current 2000 input, for example, input 2 (satellite/pcm) automatically switches to audio 1 which is unused input. Once I press the input 2 button on the Yammy remote it reverts to the correct satellite/pcm mode and I have no further problems until the next power down/up. Not a huge problem but surely it can be fixed, I hope.
I tried both HDMI 1 and 2 on the 7100 thinking maybe it was ARC (which I still do not understand) related, but nothing changed. It is possible that during initial setup of the 7100 I did something wrong but I'm not smart enough to figure it out. I could do a reset, but I will humble myself first and listen to your advice.
I swear I think I'm losing it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by scJohn View Post

Does the RX-A2000 support ARC?

if above answer is yes then do you want the ES7100 to send internal audio down to the A2000. If yes then you must use HDMI2.

This sounds like a possible Anynet+ problem. Is this on or off on the ES7100 and is HDMI-CEC set up correctly for the A2000.

bsk116, you're basically saying that the RX defaults to audio 1 shortly after it powers up, right? It could be Anynet, CEC on the RX, or ARC, and users of these features are better equipped to answer regarding them.

However, I believe it's the RX. Did you use it before with another TV and did it retain the last used input when shut down then later powered up? Or is it a new unit?

I've helped folks four yeas ago with a Yamaha receiver-based HTIB, and three years ago with Samsung blu ray-based HTIBs, and those all revert back to some default input, audio 1, or digital in... never remembering the last used (HDMI) input when powering up again. I had hoped companies would have corrected this by now.

See if the Yamaha has a setting to default to the last used input when it shuts down. Or, if it can be shut down to a standby mode, that may do it. Check for a thread on the RX in the audio section and see if others are having the same problem. Finally, I was able to work around it for them with a Harmony 650. Good luck.
post #1773 of 2641
Thank you very much I will use this setting. Also since i play games a lot can someone tell me how I access the game mode? I cant find it. Should I even use it?
post #1774 of 2641
Thank you very much I will use this setting. Also since i play games a lot can someone tell me how I access the game mode? I cant find it. Should I even use it?
post #1775 of 2641
It's under
Menu > System > General > Game Mode
Funny I had trouble finding it as well. Haven't used it-I think it makes the picture worse.
post #1776 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by EndeaverouX View Post

so by your logic all 8000's have banding? and 7100's dont?

come on....that varies from tv to tv, not from model to model....

besides hd content at most stores dont come from a pure single HD cable...they often use component cables thru and amplifier so every tv can get the same picture....

8000 vs 7100 is like apples and oranges....cant even compare by your logic.....if your tv is not satisfactory to you, return it, and get the same model....sometimes crap hits the fan from the assemby line to you living room...these tvs come from half way around the world....something is bound to happen in shipping..... wink.gif
Can not say all 8000's have banding, but I went to five different locations(big box stores) and the 8000's that I saw had noticeable banding. That's not to say you can't get one without it. In those same stores I did ot see banding on the 7100's. so my statement was just to give a heads up to look out for it, not to say that the 8000 isn't a great set. So I chose a 7100 based on what I saw. As they say YMMV wink.gif . Also, I'm extremely happy with my 7100. Happy viewing.
post #1777 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by scJohn View Post

Does the RX-A2000 support ARC?

if above answer is yes then do you want the ES7100 to send internal audio down to the A2000. If yes then you must use HDMI2.

This sounds like a possible Anynet+ problem. Is this on or off on the ES7100 and is HDMI-CEC set up correctly for the A2000.
There are threads for the RX Yammy's that have tackled that problem, but I don't remember the fix. I would go there and post your question. There are some very knowledgeable posters in those threads. I'm certain someone will help you out.
post #1778 of 2641
Did I get a bad panel?

I returned the first one (7150-60") to Costo due a really bad cross talking and lots of digital noise while watching cable. It got little clouding and minimal flashlighting however SD content was unberable to watch. BD was ok.

This second set does not have the issues of the first and picture looks way better even in SD, however has clouding and some flashliting in all 4 corners, but what is ticking me is the fact that while in a totally dark screen, it has some blue and yellow spots. They are clouding like spots spread around the screen and I did not noticed it in the previous set.

I tried some massaging in circular movements and it helped but the picture looks kind of bad depending of the vertical viewing angle. You must stay with your eyes aligned with the middle of the screen or bellow that in order to get a good picture/contrast; if you watching from an angle above the center the picture looks a little worse almost like the colors are starting to mix or change.
I am using backligt @ 10, brigthness @46 and contrast @75, all other enhancements are off.

Thanks!!
post #1779 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk600 View Post

Did I get a bad panel?

I returned the first one (7150-60") to Costo due a really bad cross talking and lots of digital noise while watching cable. It got little clouding and minimal flashlighting however SD content was unberable to watch. BD was ok.

This second set does not have the issues of the first and picture looks way better even in SD, however has clouding and some flashliting in all 4 corners, but what is ticking me is the fact that while in a totally dark screen, it has some blue and yellow spots. They are clouding like spots spread around the screen and I did not noticed it in the previous set.

I tried some massaging in circular movements and it helped but the picture looks kind of bad depending of the vertical viewing angle. You must stay with your eyes aligned with the middle of the screen or bellow that in order to get a good picture/contrast; if you watching from an angle above the center the picture looks a little worse almost like the colors are starting to mix or change.
I am using backligt @ 10, brigthness @46 and contrast @75, all other enhancements are off.

Thanks!!
wait till the break-in period is over. I had similar issues but after 3 weeks it went away
post #1780 of 2641
Best Ultra Slim, Tilting, Locking Wall Mount

This thread is great - thanks for everyone's help and advice. I recently just bought my Samsung 55ES7100 and am looking for a good ultra slim wall mount that is capable of tilting and has a security lock (or some type of theft/security mechanism). I saw monoprice's ultra slim mount and it looks exactly like the one I need, just not sure it has the theft prevention mechanism on it.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a VESA 400 x 400 pattern, ultra slim tilting mount, with a good lock system? (tumbler and key, padlock, etc.) Hoping it can tilt at least 15 degrees. Is it possible to just use the monoprice mount but buy a generic padlock to secure the TV to the mount?

I haven't taken the TV out of the box yet so don't know if a padlock might be included, how long the power cord is, etc.

Thanks for the help!
post #1781 of 2641
Im in a similar boat. I want to buy a tv stand with a mount as i dont want to wall mount and hide wires behind wall. Do these tv stands come with the right screws or do i need to buy different ones since the tv is so slim? I also noticed there are spacers that came with the tv. Thanks guys.
post #1782 of 2641
Hmmm. I did not think that they made stands with mounts for TV that were larger than 50". I'm wrong. I checked Amazon. Normally you will get several sets of screws and you need to pick the right set for mounting. Checking the user manual, you will need 4 M6 screws (46"-60" size) to attach the mount to the TV. I have heard of cases where people have had to add a washer to get the correct fit. So make sure that what you buy includes at least a set of M6 screws.

AND DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.
post #1783 of 2641
Does the RX-A2000 support ARC?

if above answer is yes then do you want the ES7100 to send internal audio down to the A2000. If yes then you must use HDMI2.

This sounds like a possible Anynet+ problem. Is this on or off on the ES7100 and is HDMI-CEC set up correctly for the A2000.


bsk116, you're basically saying that the RX defaults to audio 1 shortly after it powers up, right? It could be Anynet, CEC on the RX, or ARC, and users of these features are better equipped to answer regarding them.

However, I believe it's the RX. Did you use it before with another TV and did it retain the last used input when shut down then later powered up? Or is it a new unit?

I've helped folks four yeas ago with a Yamaha receiver-based HTIB, and three years ago with Samsung blu ray-based HTIBs, and those all revert back to some default input, audio 1, or digital in... never remembering the last used (HDMI) input when powering up again. I had hoped companies would have corrected this by now.

See if the Yamaha has a setting to default to the last used input when it shuts down. Or, if it can be shut down to a standby mode, that may do it. Check for a thread on the RX in the audio section and see if others are having the same problem. Finally, I was able to work around it for them with a Harmony 650. Good

Thanks guys for the help, you are both right. I THOUGHT I moved the HDMI cable to HDMI2 but it was actually the USB cable that I moved (guess I should study things a little more carefully). I think anynet was primarily responsible for this issue.
Yes the Yammy supports ARC and I actually had everything configured in both the tv and receiver but then changed back.
The problem is solved, and once again thanks for taking the time to help an old analog boy resolve this problem.
Also, I don't know if it's me or not, but the Yamaha manual is thorough, but extremely hard to decipher at times.
post #1784 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by delaAVS View Post

has anyone tested teh new firmware? Upgrade File(USB type) (Firmware) (ver.1026.1)
All OS Jan 28, 2013 ENGLISH
138.51

I updated to FW 1026 Today...everything is normal.
post #1785 of 2641
Firmware Version 1026.1

1.This firmware is for TV Model ES7100
2.The version is 1026.1
3.This firmware update will improve the following:

- Support Verizon Apps

- Support Netflix 3.2 codec

- Resolves picture shaking and line noise on 1080p source.

- Supports Yahoo SyncPlus app..

- Resolves escaping issue while watching movie on VUDU.

- Resolves issue Cinemanow does not play certain title.

- Resolves compatibility issue with DLNA devices.

- Improves picture quality.

- Supports Samsung wireless Audio Dock

- Solves the problem closed caption does not show.
post #1786 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsk116 View Post

Does the RX-A2000 support ARC?

if above answer is yes then do you want the ES7100 to send internal audio down to the A2000. If yes then you must use HDMI2.

This sounds like a possible Anynet+ problem. Is this on or off on the ES7100 and is HDMI-CEC set up correctly for the A2000.


bsk116, you're basically saying that the RX defaults to audio 1 shortly after it powers up, right? It could be Anynet, CEC on the RX, or ARC, and users of these features are better equipped to answer regarding them.

However, I believe it's the RX. Did you use it before with another TV and did it retain the last used input when shut down then later powered up? Or is it a new unit?

I've helped folks four yeas ago with a Yamaha receiver-based HTIB, and three years ago with Samsung blu ray-based HTIBs, and those all revert back to some default input, audio 1, or digital in... never remembering the last used (HDMI) input when powering up again. I had hoped companies would have corrected this by now.

See if the Yamaha has a setting to default to the last used input when it shuts down. Or, if it can be shut down to a standby mode, that may do it. Check for a thread on the RX in the audio section and see if others are having the same problem. Finally, I was able to work around it for them with a Harmony 650. Good

Thanks guys for the help, you are both right. I THOUGHT I moved the HDMI cable to HDMI2 but it was actually the USB cable that I moved (guess I should study things a little more carefully). I think anynet was primarily responsible for this issue.
Yes the Yammy supports ARC and I actually had everything configured in both the tv and receiver but then changed back.
The problem is solved, and once again thanks for taking the time to help an old analog boy resolve this problem.
Also, I don't know if it's me or not, but the Yamaha manual is thorough, but extremely hard to decipher at times.
One of the many complaints about the Yamaha's are their manuals. Tough for just about everyone, but great AVR's.
post #1787 of 2641
Hello! I have the same problem with my Samsung logo flickering on a 55ES7100 regardless of the Light Effect setting. Seems to only do it when the TV is off. I literally trouble shot this to death and have even consulted with a Samsung tech on CNET's forum - they want to send a tech out to take apart my new TV and exchange what they feel is a bad part. I don't like that idea however, since I just purchase it. At any rate, I'm looking for some thoughts on this. Here are two videos:

Television 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NI3w6ajVSc0

Television 2 (returned the first one): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2TEYNxmNXs

It's really annoying and the 1026 firmware upgrade didn't fix it. Do you know what it is or why it's doing this?
post #1788 of 2641
Weird that ifs happening with 2 tvs in a row. Ive heard this is a common problem. I was going to guess your surge protector being weird but since others have experienced it i guess thats ruled out. Hopefully some people will chime in with a fix. Good luck!
post #1789 of 2641
I'm seeing an ocassional set of translucent green lines running across the top of my TV. When I change channel the TV gets stuck, powers itself off and comes back okay. Anyone else experienced this?
post #1790 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by thossessess View Post

Hello! I have the same problem with my Samsung logo flickering on a 55ES7100 regardless of the Light Effect setting. Seems to only do it when the TV is off. I literally trouble shot this to death and have even consulted with a Samsung tech on CNET's forum - they want to send a tech out to take apart my new TV and exchange what they feel is a bad part. I don't like that idea however, since I just purchase it. At any rate, I'm looking for some thoughts on this. Here are two videos:

Television 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NI3w6ajVSc0

Television 2 (returned the first one): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2TEYNxmNXs

It's really annoying and the 1026 firmware upgrade didn't fix it. Do you know what it is or why it's doing this?

Honestly, I leave the Samsung logo light off.

I think the Eco Sensor that is located behind the logo is to blame.

What are your settings for the logo and eco sensor?
post #1791 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackmonkeyhat View Post

I'm seeing an ocassional set of translucent green lines running across the top of my TV. When I change channel the TV gets stuck, powers itself off and comes back okay. Anyone else experienced this?

No...that's major.

Best option is to contact Samsung.
post #1792 of 2641


Has anybody spotted dead/stuck pixels yet? While the set was updating with v.1026 last night, I spotted at least 3 either dead or stuck pixels. Some look blue, some red and some plain white. I tried applying pressure to see if they'll come back to live but they are still either dead or stuck. I think Samsung's dead pixel policy allows for a couple of them before replacing, but 3 is too much. I'm still in my 90 days exchange window with Costco so I'm thinking about exchanging the set. Any body else getting dead pixels? Thanks!
Edited by dcontto - 2/1/13 at 6:58am
post #1793 of 2641
Ok, i feel stupid even asking this, but when i click on Pandora, it does switch to my account, but i still hear the TV channel's audio. I have a Tivo box from RCN, my cable provider. I don't see a power button for the Tivo, so i don't think turning it off is an option. So.....what am i supposed to do to listen to Pandora and not the TV station? The answer is probably right in front of me, but my eyes seem to be closed at this time!
post #1794 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by thossessess View Post

Hello! I have the same problem with my Samsung logo flickering on a 55ES7100 regardless of the Light Effect setting. Seems to only do it when the TV is off. I literally trouble shot this to death and have even consulted with a Samsung tech on CNET's forum - they want to send a tech out to take apart my new TV and exchange what they feel is a bad part. I don't like that idea however, since I just purchase it. At any rate, I'm looking for some thoughts on this. Here are two videos:

Television 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NI3w6ajVSc0

Television 2 (returned the first one): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2TEYNxmNXs

It's really annoying and the 1026 firmware upgrade didn't fix it. Do you know what it is or why it's doing this?

I have the same set and my logo does not flicker. I think I will turn off the logo as it's too much along with all the other "standby" led's from the other components.
post #1795 of 2641
I guess im confused because the CE completely contradicts micro dimming. They should call it frame dimming like the sony hx750...
post #1796 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by axm438 View Post

yeah....I'm just trying to confirm before I go out to buy one. BB said the ssg-3100gb 3D glasses wouldn't work. took a chance anyways and bought a pair and sure enough they worked on the es7100. Just trying to see if its the same scenario with the remote also.

Just be careful about what you expect to do with a keyboard. I am finding that some of the integrated apps are simply not built for alternative entry methods over and above the native build. In other words, just because there is a place where letters show up, it does not mean that a keyboard will work. Before I invested in one, I loaded three different apps on my android phone for simply the use of the SwiftKey keyboard function. All three work very similarly and I started to realize that some of the apps required scrolling over the displayed key pad and finding the god-awful OK button while others simply allowed for raw text input (from any compatible device). To me, it's a travesty of bad code. Not all text based apps are created equal on this bad boy.

AGE
post #1797 of 2641
NetFlix Users on the 7100!!

So, fairly quietly, NetFlix introduces their SuperHD "product." Hastings and his girls and boys continue to tweak their streaming delivery algorithm to shove a ($*)(($_! of packets down your service providers pipe. At it's maximum, the bit rate will be upwards of 8 times the old standard delivery rate. This becomes a burden on the service provider networks so a few have opted to not participate with NetFlix peering via their OpenConnect Network.

So, on your PC, go here https://signup.netflix.com/superhd and see if your service provider does support OpenConnect. You should get a pretty green Your Internet Service providers supports SuperHD message.

Then, of course, you will need to find a decent tool to monitor your actual SuperHD output. NetFlix has some samples. You log onto your account and search for the following video.

Example Short 23.976

You will find a few with descriptions. The first one without the time stamp embedded does provide a bit rate monitor. You may have a different experience of the sample information on your quality PC graphics card and decent CPU than on the TV via the embedded app or even if you have a Roku2 XD or better player. There is a list of CERTIFIED players on the SuperHD page above.

It takes about a minute or two for the stream to find it's way to maximum bit rate and then, of course, it may fluctuate according to your household, local, and regional demand.

If all goes well for you, here are a couple of other videos that should be using SuperHD delivery:

Immortals
Art of Flight
African Wild
Scary Tales
Live Fire
and I think... but am not certain... The Lorax.

If you are able to successfully use the SuperHD content at it's full 5800Kbps and your service provider is Open Connect compliant, can you please report your experience on the 7100 for all to see?

Thanks.
AGE (and no, I don't work for NetFlix but I do work for an OpenConnect compliant communications corporation where NetFlix is hurting us daily. And my ISP does not support OpenConnect so I can't actually see the results at home).
post #1798 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by helvetica bold View Post

It's under
Menu > System > General > Game Mode
Funny I had trouble finding it as well. Haven't used it-I think it makes the picture worse.

yes game mode makes the picture quality crapppy...they even warn you about it...no offense, i never use game mode, why should I? my ps3 is perfect the way it is with my 8000...
post #1799 of 2641
Game Mode makes a real difference for Xbox Live.

Game Mode look "normal" on the Xbox...the picture is still decent.
post #1800 of 2641
Quote:
Originally Posted by PiratesCove View Post

Game Mode makes a real difference for Xbox Live.

Care to elaborate?
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