Official Samsung UNXXES7100 Thread. - Page 7

Also curious, is anyone else unable to find the HBO Go App? Why is this not yet available? Do we know when it will become available?

I'm having issues with my UN55ES7100 when connecting my Xbox360 via HDMI. Has anyone been able to get this to work?

I've reset my Xbox by holding Y while pulling the right trigger - I'm then forced to blindly navigate to the display settings and downgrade the video from 1080p to 480p. For whatever reason, the TV shows no display signal when set to 1080p, but will work with 480p. I've tried all three HDMI inputs and have reset the TV back to factory settings while trying to get this to work.

When I use the component video cables, 1080p works fine. I'm hoping to use the HDMI cable for audio purposes as well as passing 3d content from the Xbox to the TV.

Also, I've attempted to connect my laptop via HDMI as well, but it too will not display. The laptop detects the TV as a Samsung TV and sets the display settings to 1080, but the TV still shows no signal.

I have no trouble connecting anything, MacBook, Xbox, PS3 all work for me. Have you tried using a different HDMI cable? If so, do you know if you have a high speed cable (which is a category 2 cable) as that is required to do 1080p. If you go to monoprice they show they have standard speed and high speed cables, only the high speed handle 1080p (and 3D).

Unfortunately, yes - I've tried three different HDMI cables, one of which is a brand new high speed cable from Monoprice: 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI® Cable w/ Net Jacket.

I tested on a second TV (only 720p capable) - all three cables and the xbox display fine on this TV at 720p. They will not however display a 720p or 1080p signal on the Samsung TV.

I'm going to open a warranty repair but wanted to check here to make sure I wasn't missing something completely stupid.

I've had my ES7150 (same as 7100) for 2 weeks now. I bought it at Costco so I have 90 days to be sure I'm satisfied. I keep reading about other brands an models and think maybe I need to check one of them out. Then I go home and watch my tv and damn that is a good picture! I'll probably do this till my return period is up lol. I rewatched a recorded episode of Mad Men while at lunch and it was a much more vibrant picture than what I saw on the orginal viewing on my Panasonic S1 plasma a few months ago.

I'm still adjusting the settings, now I'm back to a very slightly tweaked standard mode with a dialed in eco-sensor minimum backlight setting.

Same here, just went to my friends house who has the LG 47lm7600 which I bought at first and exchanged for this. I just can't believe the difference. The LG is good but this is just way better, which makes me think how much better is the 7500 and 8000 series?

I think the ES7100 is the sweet spot of the Samsung ES series of models as it has 240hz refresh rate and micro-dimming.
The more expensive ES7500 and ES8000 just add the bells&whistles like voice/hand control that are just gimmicks in my opinion.

Haha...the LGlm7600 is one of the sets I read reviews on and thought I would take a look at.

I also have the LM7600. I love that set too. The sammy pops a little more with it's colors but the LG is great. I'd have been happy with either one, but i don't have to make that choice. When football season rolls around, i'll let you know how sports look between the two.

NASCAR looks great on both. Both tv's show the "skittles in a toilet bowl" really well.

The only thing I didn't like about the lm7600, and it maybe I just wasn't able to set it right or I got a bad set is the contrast and color of some faces specially of news broadcasters. It just seemed off no matter what settings I tried, while with the sammy it was right off the box. Also the vertical banding is just way too much.

Cloudy/flashlite issues on Costco 60ES7150...but fixed by loosening the screws holding the screen.

Hi All,

I have gone through 3 Costco Sharp TVs, 2 70" and then 1 60". The 70" models had stuck pixels, decided to go to the 60" model and it had clouds.

The 60" model was the quadtron, I was able to dial in the color quite well, but the flash lighting was annoying.

Well now I have the 60ES7150. It has severe corner flash lighting. As I am getting tired of returning TVs, I thought I would try the various "Snake Oil" fixes. Well they seemed to have worked. I loosened the screws holding the screen and frame together, and did some gentle screen massaging, nothing worse than if you were cleaning the screen.

I will see how well the fixes hold up. I should have taken before and after pictures, I am quite impressed. Still need to calibrate, it is not looking as good as the Sharp.

I will follow up in week....

wow, now I know I am not alone. Also had too return 5 sets, 2 from costco (es7550) as I had a problem with thunderstorm, then speakers not working. I never knew I would be tired from opening new stuff This set I am thinking of keeping has some clouding, but it's not bad specially after some tweaking.

I am more intrigue about how the micro dimming pro and ultra would be better than the standard the 7500 series has.

7100 = Standard
7500 = Pro
8000 = Ultimate

The difference between Standard and Pro is that Pro adds processing of color and sharpness, they both have the same number of dimmable zones. Adding additional sharpness is just going to add artifacts to your picture and I don't really want my color being shifted depending on the amount of light in the picture. So the 7100 should deliver a more accurate picture than the 7500, thus a better picture.

The 8000 adds a lot more zones to dim, so that would have a better picture.

I guess you looked into this more than I did. The only reason I stayed with the 7100 over the 7500 is because costco doesn't sell the 7500, plus I don't want to pay extra just for the camera. And I don't like the stand of the 8000.

Is it my cable, the TV or me?

I’ve had the UN46ES7100 for about a week now, I did a calibration using AVCHD 709 as suggested in previous posts (followed along the video from HD Net) and still having the same results.

This is my first real LED TV, my previous was a Samsung CRT that could handle up to 1080i HD, but in a much smaller size – 32”. So now that I have 46” inches of awesome, I was expecting to see crystal clear resolution and detail. So far I’m underwhelmed.

I pretty much purchased this TV to watch Olympics coverage. I hemmed and hawed about it for weeks and ended up with UN46ES7100 because the near-zero bezel has such an amazing design. My rationale was 1080p, 240hz, CMR 720 spec on paper so the image quality should be amazing.

I visited it at Best Buy like a puppy at the pound, and PQ was great (in the artificially produced PQ environment of a retail store) but now that its home, instead of fist-pumps and celebrations of finally getting a beautiful 1080p LED, I’m doubting my purchase.

The trouble seems to be content that is not 1080p (which you know, is almost everything aside from BD) so far I see the quality of the full resolution of the screen on Blu-ray over HDMI. But once I switch to another source that should be at least 1080i, the difference is like HD to SD on my old TV.

I’m going to use Olympics coverage as my example since presumably everyone can watch that right now.

People and faces appear too smooth, almost lacking detail. Like everyone has had a facelift or a nose job, with little color detail variation to the face. In some instances, backgrounds almost have an “impressionist painting “effect. The NBC Olympic rings transition between shots is definitely pixilated and lacks clarity, and the pop and color of HD just doesn’t seem there. Again, it feels less like HD and more like SD. Commercials and news spots that have had more treatment appear better or wide shots of London look great, but close zoomed shots, medium shots are not what I was expecting.

Here’s what I’ve done to try to correct this:

Calibration. I used AVCHD 709 and followed along the HD Nation video that accompanies it. I have a professional Best Buy calibration set up in a month (got it free, but wanted great quality before that) I did the complete calibration including color (blue screen and all) contrast and brightness etc.

Upgraded set top box. Got a new set top box from my cable company (Mediacom), connected with a regular HDMI, and now one of the expensive Monster cables (HDMI is HDMI - but wanted to see if there was any difference with the Monster to correct this problem.)

Tried OTA. Ran out and bought a decent quality outdoor antenna, I live only like 15 miles from the transmitter so I could test if this was cable or TV. There was no discernible difference between OTA and cable.

Tried all the HDMI ports. If BD looks great, maybe the HDMI port the cable is connected to is bad. No dice.

Sitting farther away. So reading this forum, I thought perhaps I was sitting to close. So I’ve pulled back the couch to about 6-8 feet distance. It has slightly improved, but not enough! I can’t really put any more distance between my couch and the TV.

HD feed/source. I keep thinking… oh it’s just my crappy cable company, but I’m not sure! I would switch to DirecTV but not sure it’s worth it if it ends up being the TV itself. I know there are a ton of variables… NBC’s original broadcasts from London, the satellite feed connecting to my local NBC station, the quality the local station is passing along the feed, my cable company’s compression of that signal, etc.

I’ve also had clouding in the upper left and lower right corners, that can be mitigated by backlight settings, but it’s still there.

So my question to you Samsung/AV gurus – Is it the TV, my HD feed, or me? Am I just not used to the smoothing effect of 1080 on a larger screen? Should I expect even this TV to pixilate on certain transitions or tight shots? Is this a situation where the TV is too sensitive for less than perfect feeds?

I have played with most of the specs – Auto Motion, LED Motion etc. Nothing has made any real difference. Since there is no custom picture setting, I started with Movie mode. If I had started with Standard or Natural would that have made a difference?

Your help would be appreciated since this awesome TV was supposed to be a splurge that I’m super excited about. And instead, while watching, I’m disappointed with PQ and constantly want to tweak settings.

Here are my current specs:
Picture Mode: Movie
Backlight: 14
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 20-46 (playing with this setting to counter smoothing)
Color: 50
Tint: 50 50
Pic size: Screen fit, no adjustment

Advanced settings
Dynamic contrast: Off
Flesh tone: Off
Rgb off
Color space: Auto
White balance: default
Gamma: 0
Motion lighting off

Picture options
Color tone: Warm 2
Digital noise filter: Off
Meg filter: Off
Hdmi black: Off
Film mode: Auto 2

Auto motion plus: Tried Clear and/or Custom with 10 Blur reduction and 5 Judder
Led motion plus off

System settings
Eco solutions
Energy saver off
Eco sensor: on
Min backlight 6 Max 14

I would try standard mode. Reset the standard picture mode and tweak from there. I have had no luck with movie mode. Natural mode actually is pretty good for sports but needs some adjustments.

HD feed thru your antenna should be outstanding. A BD player will provide the best picture. Also settings are stored per input so keep that in mind if you swap cables inputs etc...

HD is great on my set, SD is middle of the road. Several times I have tweaked standard mode only to reset it and find the picture improved. So now I have learned that very slight 1-2 points can make a huge difference.
Edited by Ticmxman - 7/30/12 at 10:19am

Typical symptoms of overcompressed signals. Since it's happening both OTA and via cable the overcompression is probably happening at your local NBC affilliate and will also be present if you go satellite. To test this theory try setting your BD player to output 1080i instead of 1080p and playing a disc. If the problem is gone you know it's not the set's handling of 1080i. Blu Ray can run up to 40 mbps so overcompression artifacts are non-existent unless the disc is poorly mastered. Your local NBC station is allocated a total of 19.2 mbps by the FCC and uses the relatively inefficient mpeg 2 coding, as opposed to the AVC or mpeg 4 on most Blu Ray discs. That local station most probably has a couple of sub channels that eat into that 19.2 mbps leaving as little as 12 or 14 mbps for the HD feed.

Thanks for your response! This is what I've been dreading, that really its my local affiliate's signal. They do have multiple channels eating up space. I'm not a regular broadcast viewer, and normally stick to Netflix/Hulu and premium channels.

I will test the 1080i/p setting on BD player to test.

So this overcompression thing... how have TV freaks not raised a stink about this? Are these issues present because we're in a weird transitional time?

I'm just curious since I would think folks would be outraged if they can't get crystal clear signal for major sporting events (ala Olympics, Super Bowl etc.)

Is there anything that can be done? Is this TV just really future-proof so that I can expect improvements down the line?

I had to get one as the sound from this tv hurt my ears when I put it up. I got the Panasonic HTB20. I liked this one as you can split it into two and put it in the sides, it is also ARC compatible so you can control it with the tv remote and it turns off with the tv. There is a higher model with bluetooth subwoofer. Sound is good, I only needed a basic speaker to upgrade the tv sound, I already have a dedicated 5.1 system for watching movies, bluray specifically. This fit the bill perfectly for me. I got a good deal from Buydig, as it is lower than everybody else.

I considered a soundbar...but I ended up going with a Samsung BluRay HTIB. I already have a HTIB from Sammy but wanted one that had built-in BluRay to free up one of my HDMI inputs. The spare unit (and TV) will be going in my spare room in 2 weeks when I move.

Why not use your 5.1 system for TV as well? SPDIF out anyone?


I'd consider something like the Denon DHT-1312BA system in that price range. Why do 2.1 when you can do 5.1 with a solid receiver? Onkyo has some decent offerings too.

I don't want to use 5.1 for every show specially for just news and animation for the kids. Not only do I save electricity but also I won't bother the neighbors with my 200w subwoofer every time the tv is on (I live in an apartment).

ha, good point. gotta love the ARC compatible stuff for ease of management too.

I have a 46" on the way. Stoked about it, big Samsung fan.

I'll be upgrading from an older DLP. I should be impressed right?

Moved the DLP upstairs... darn thing wont die. It's been an excellent TV.

You should be impressed. It's a nice picture.

I need help with wireless network connectivity!!!

I have the 60ES7100 and can't connect to the internet wirelessly. I have Time Warner Cable, 20Mbit internet, and wireless router.

I also have 2 note book computers and a Sony TV with wireless capability and all 3 of them connect to the internet with no problems at all.

When I try to set up the wireless connectivity and have it automatically acquire the IP and DNS addresses it never gets a DNS or gateway address and it gets some screwy IP address of 45.127.something or other. My IP address range is 192.168.2.xxx.

So when that didn't work I did an IPconfig /all on my noteook to get it's network addressing information so I could enter the IP, SubNet, Gateway and DNS addresses manually using what my notebook is using, except for the IP which I set to 192.168.2.115. The 115 is not being used by any of my other devices.

After setting them manually, I tried to connect and the TV connected to the router, but it can't get to the internet.

I'd say something is set up wrong in the router, except every other wireless device I have connects to the internet OK.

Any ideas?

Are you too far from the router?