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Official Samsung UNXXES7100 Thread. - Page 65

post #1921 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevreh View Post

Couple questions about this LCD. I currently have the 6900 from best buy (bought it last week). Thinking of upgrading to the 7100 because of the clear panel. Picture seems to look richer, more contrasty. With my 6900 off-axis viewing is pretty bad compared to a plasma (common knowledge). What I'm wondering, is will there be a noticeable improvement of the 7100 over the 6900, when one is ~30 degrees off angle? The info page on samsungs site suggest there will be an improvement.

Kevin

I believe the 6900 is a 50inch model only. I do however notice on my UN60ES7100 that when I am standing off-axis the picture lose contrast and looks a little washy.

If you were to get the 7100, which size were you considering? 46? 55? 60?

I think crossing the threshold above 7000 will yield a nice quality TV. How much of a price change are you looking at?
post #1922 of 2633
Have the 50", would have to bump up to the 55" for the 7100. Looks like the 55" is about $500 more then the BB 6900. Yeah, $500 is a decent chunk of change but the picture is better and we tend to keep our tvs for about 4 years.
post #1923 of 2633
Off axis viewing on a 7100 is about the same as the 6900. But does have a better over all picture and better motion.
post #1924 of 2633
I've been lurking through this thread and possibly jumping on getting the UN55ES7100. It seems to have mixed feelings overall and the latest FW (1027) update has made it worthwhile. I found a deal at a local store selling an open-boxed model for ~$1350. Should I jump on this or go for the 7500? I was hoping to stay under $1500 for a TV. I've had an old 32" Samsung LCD from 6-7 years ago. I'd love to go for the 8 series, but that's way over what I'm willing to spend.
post #1925 of 2633
go for it.
post #1926 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by l0rdbyr0n View Post

I've been lurking through this thread and possibly jumping on getting the UN55ES7100. It seems to have mixed feelings overall and the latest FW (1027) update has made it worthwhile. I found a deal at a local store selling an open-boxed model for ~$1350. Should I jump on this or go for the 7500? I was hoping to stay under $1500 for a TV. I've had an old 32" Samsung LCD from 6-7 years ago. I'd love to go for the 8 series, but that's way over what I'm willing to spend.

You missed out on the un55es7100 selling for $1500 during the pre-super bowl sales at BestBuy. I was able to exchange my un60es6100 that I paid $1500 for the un60es7100 for $1800.
post #1927 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by andyboy View Post

Sorry to ask, but couldn't you connect all of your HDMI cables to your TV and use the optical out on the TV and connect to your AVR? I have mine set that way and all of the audio (from any source including SmartHub) is played through my AVR.
Maybe I'm confused what ARC is suppose to do.

I could do it that way yes, but for me its easier and cleaner to wire everything through my AVR. ARC is a convenience to not have to have the optical cable in addition to HDMI for the TV to ARV connection. It works but the issue between Samsung anynet and Denon is that forces an input switch when I just want to keep my input set to what it was the last time I turned the system off.

With my old Sony TV I didn't have this issue and I was able to use ARC. It is caused by how Samsung set up their Anynet functionality.
post #1928 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by chains007 View Post

Thanks for explaining your setup. So to confirm - your set up requires you to switch the source on the AVR when you want to hear sound from SmartHub app correct? I wanted to do that, but the problem I'm facing is that when I switch to the new source (let's call it TV), i lose the video signal completely because my AVR isn't sending the TV anything from the TV source (since FioS is connected to another source). I'm sure I'm missing something basic here...thanks for your advice.

Correct and I'm not hitting your issue. My Denon AVR is set to the TV source as well for audio from the optical connection from the Samsung. This does not affect my video signal as this is coming through Smart Hub wirelessly. You may need to change a setting on your AVR to turn off HDMI for your TV source and/or to turn off HDMI-CEC functionality. For my Denon, I had to shut of HDMI-CEC in addition to shutting off Anynet (HDMI-CEC) on the Samsung.

In the ideal world I would just use HDMI-CEC and ARC functionality and not have to have the optical connection but Samsung built inflexible functionality that forces an input switch on the AVR to which assumes you always want to watch streaming content when 95% of the time I don't as I have Fios. With my previous Sony TV, this issue did not occur and I used HDMI-CEC and ARC and did not have to have the extra optical connection.
post #1929 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by axm438 View Post

You missed out on the un55es7100 selling for $1500 during the pre-super bowl sales at BestBuy. I was able to exchange my un60es6100 that I paid $1500 for the un60es7100 for $1800.

Thanks - I guess I was asking if I should pony up the extra $400-500 for the UNES7500 model? I've been seeing some of those go for around $1700 and if the price difference between the 7100-7500 is worth it.
post #1930 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by l0rdbyr0n View Post

Thanks - I guess I was asking if I should pony up the extra $400-500 for the UNES7500 model? I've been seeing some of those go for around $1700 and if the price difference between the 7100-7500 is worth it.

It all depends if the smart interaction feature really matters to you or not. Also the 7500 supports the smart evolution option coming out for 2013 where the 7100 does not, but the kit is said to be $400-500. As far as the picture quality goes, both i'm gonna assume to be the same as both the es7100 and the es7500 uses the same panel if you get the TS01 panels in the 55 in version....take a look at the parts links below.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Samsung-Parts/Television-Parts/Model-UN55ES7500FXZATS01/1482/0333600/50039888/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Samsung-Parts/Television-Parts/Model-UN55ES7100FXZATS01/1482/0333600/50040252/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

Here is a full list of the various panels used on the various sizes if anyone else is interested. I know everyone prefers the TS01 panels since its made by samsung. For me, I have the 60 inch es7100 and the only panel version is HS01 which is made by sharp.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/brands-products/Samsung-Parts/Television-Parts?pathTaken=allcat&Category=LCD&sort=modelNumber&dir=desc
post #1931 of 2633
With regards to the flashing Samsung logo, I have found that if you press the smart hub button on the remote the flashing logo problem goes away. This is not a permanent fix, but it stops the logo from flashing.
post #1932 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Angell View Post

I have my BD going to my receiver and TV. It goes to the TV because my receiver doesn't support 3D. It goes to the receiver to feed the sound system. If the receiver supported 3D, I don't know why I would want to connect the BD directly to the TV.

You are correct. I corrected my post to say NOT. I think faster than I can type.
post #1933 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by axm438 View Post

It all depends if the smart interaction feature really matters to you or not. Also the 7500 supports the smart evolution option coming out for 2013 where the 7100 does not, but the kit is said to be $400-500. As far as the picture quality goes, both i'm gonna assume to be the same as both the es7100 and the es7500 uses the same panel if you get the TS01 panels in the 55 in version....take a look at the parts links below.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Samsung-Parts/Television-Parts/Model-UN55ES7500FXZATS01/1482/0333600/50039888/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Samsung-Parts/Television-Parts/Model-UN55ES7100FXZATS01/1482/0333600/50040252/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

Here is a full list of the various panels used on the various sizes if anyone else is interested. I know everyone prefers the TS01 panels since its made by samsung. For me, I have the 60 inch es7100 and the only panel version is HS01 which is made by sharp.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/brands-products/Samsung-Parts/Television-Parts?pathTaken=allcat&Category=LCD&sort=m odelNumber&dir=desc
Most of the 7100 models in my area have the USO2 panel, which seems to get good reviews. But I do wonder if US02 is a Samsung panel. And the 7500s I've seen all have the TS02 panel, which is Samsung. And I have seen 6500s with both TS02 and CS02, which is Chi Mei. But have heard CS02 may not be as good. But has it yet been determined if US02 is a Samsung panel?
post #1934 of 2633
I just updated to the newest firmware 1027 and have noticed the flash-lighting has seemed to improve. Don't know why, but it has. I had noticeable flash-lighting in the upper left corner as well as a couple spots along the top. Was just about ready to pull the plug and exchange for the Panny 55GT50 then this update happened. Is it just me seeing this marked improvement?
post #1935 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerSC View Post

Most of the 7100 models in my area have the USO2 panel, which seems to get good reviews. But I do wonder if US02 is a Samsung panel. And the 7500s I've seen all have the TS02 panel, which is Samsung. And I have seen 6500s with both TS02 and CS02, which is Chi Mei. But have heard CS02 may not be as good. But has it yet been determined if US02 is a Samsung panel?


US02 is a Samsung panel its classified as "A" meaning Samsung in the service menu (DON'T GO into the SERVICE MENU).

Example: Version US02. The Service Menu shows 46A2UF0E

46 (panel size)
A panel manufacturer (A = Samsung; D = Chi Mei ; L = AU Optronics )
2 frequency (6 = 50/60 Hz; 1 = 100/120 Hz; 2 = 200/240 Hz)
U panel (A = AntiGlare; T = TN; U = Ultra Clear)
F resolution (F = Full HD; H = HD; U = UD)
0 1st, 2nd panel and so on (1st = 0; 2nd = 1 ...)
E backlight unit (C = CCFL; L = LED; E = Edge LED)

Version "A" panels: AU Optronics.
Version "S" panels: Samsung.
Version "C" panels: Chi Mei.
Version "HS" panels: Samsung or 60 inches - Sharp.
Version "TS" panels: Samsung.
Version "US" panels: Samsung.
post #1936 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by PiratesCove View Post

US02 is a Samsung panel its classified as "A" meaning Samsung in the service menu (DON'T GO into the SERVICE MENU).

Example: Version US02. The Service Menu shows 46A2UF0E

46 (panel size)
A panel manufacturer (A = Samsung; D = Chi Mei ; L = AU Optronics )
2 frequency (6 = 50/60 Hz; 1 = 100/120 Hz; 2 = 200/240 Hz)
U panel (A = AntiGlare; T = TN; U = Ultra Clear)
F resolution (F = Full HD; H = HD; U = UD)
0 1st, 2nd panel and so on (1st = 0; 2nd = 1 ...)
E backlight unit (C = CCFL; L = LED; E = Edge LED)

Version "A" panels: AU Optronics.
Version "S" panels: Samsung.
Version "C" panels: Chi Mei.
Version "HS" panels: Samsung or 60 inches - Sharp.
Version "TS" panels: Samsung.
Version "US" panels: Samsung.

Anyone know if all the 60 inch 7100 series are all HS (sharp) panels? Reason being is that I have some minor flashlighting on the top left corner and bottom right corner. Not so much clouding though. I'm debating weather I should try an exchange and see if i better a better panel. The only problem is that there is no consistency between the panels so I could end up with a panel that is worse than what I have now. Any suggestions?
post #1937 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick96 View Post

I just updated to the newest firmware 1027 and have noticed the flash-lighting has seemed to improve. Don't know why, but it has. I had noticeable flash-lighting in the upper left corner as well as a couple spots along the top. Was just about ready to pull the plug and exchange for the Panny 55GT50 then this update happened. Is it just me seeing this marked improvement?

Thats quite the opposite on my case when I upgraded. I notice the flashlighting more now than before to the point where I've set the backlight to 8 and still notice it in dark scenes.
post #1938 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by axm438 View Post

Anyone know if all the 60 inch 7100 series are all HS (sharp) panels? Reason being is that I have some minor flashlighting on the top left corner and bottom right corner. Not so much clouding though. I'm debating weather I should try an exchange and see if i better a better panel. The only problem is that there is no consistency between the panels so I could end up with a panel that is worse than what I have now. Any suggestions?


US0x or TH0x or TS0x: Samsung S-PVA panel.- Best

HS0x: Samsung / Sharp ASV panel: -Very Good

A_0X: AU Otronics A-MVA panel: - Good

CH0x or CM0x or CS0x: Chi Mei S-MVA panel: - O.K.
post #1939 of 2633
Good to hear US02 is indeed a Samsung panel. I thought it probably was based upon positive reviews. Now I just hope they drop the price again on the 7100.
post #1940 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by kanti123 View Post

I say mine is perfect!



Anybody on the fence....Behold the Mighty ES7100!!!
post #1941 of 2633
Pirates....what version panel do you have and what size is your tv? Your screen does look perfect in terms of clouding and flashlighting.
post #1942 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by kparonso View Post

I could do it that way yes, but for me its easier and cleaner to wire everything through my AVR. ARC is a convenience to not have to have the optical cable in addition to HDMI for the TV to ARV connection. It works but the issue between Samsung anynet and Denon is that forces an input switch when I just want to keep my input set to what it was the last time I turned the system off.

With my old Sony TV I didn't have this issue and I was able to use ARC. It is caused by how Samsung set up their Anynet functionality.

I have everything going through my Denon AVR-3312ci and then to my TV. Would you happen to know why i can't get the audio to work when i use Pandora through the 7100 smart hub? It shows that it plays, but i keep hearing the TV channel that was on before i switched over. I'm sure it's an input issue, but nothing i've tried has worked. I'm also using a Logitech Harmony One remote, so i don't usually touch inputs for anything. Even so, i did try different inputs on my Denon remote, but still nothing.
I've asked about this in an earlier post, but didn't get a response...
post #1943 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by PiratesCove View Post

Anybody on the fence....Behold the Mighty ES7100!!!
Same here - 60" HS01.
post #1944 of 2633
anyone able to stream hd mkv files? i get an error saying its not supported, divx files seem to work fine.
post #1945 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyddr View Post

anyone able to stream hd mkv files? i get an error saying its not supported, divx files seem to work fine.

Consider using Plex on a server PC and the app for your TV. It uses your PC to decode the video and you'll never have an issue with unsupported file types. It's also quite fancy looking.
post #1946 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by andremal View Post

Sure. Here is the Ticmxman2 config


Pic mode: Standard
Backlight: 10... if you adjust this the Eco-sensor will turn off and you have to turn it back on. So adjust BL first.
Contrast: 75....high settings wash out color and reduce viewing angles
Brightness: 45...less than 45 Ecosensor is off
Sharpness: 30 ...has little effect
Color: 49
Tint: 50-50
Screen adjustment: 16:9 or screen fit
Advanced Settings
Dynamic contrast: high
Black tone : dark
Flesh tone: +2
Rgb: off
Color space: auto
Gamma: -2
Motion lighting: off
Picture options: warm 1
Digital noise filter: auto
MPEG filter: auto
Film mode: auto1
Auto motion plus: clear
LED motion plus: on

System
Eco solution
Energy saving: off
Eco sensor: on
Minimum backlight: 6


Yesterday I tried out the Nitra config from the ES8000 forum and really like it.


Picture Mode Movie Standard <-- Currently 7/23/12 Micro-Dimming is not working in Movie Mode.
Backlight 12*** <--- See notes below
Contrast 80
Brightness 45
Sharpness 16
Color 48
Tint G49/R51
Screen Adjustment Screen Fit
Advanced Settings
Dynamic contrast Off
Black Tone Off
Flesh tone 0
RGB mode off
Color Space Custom
Red: 43,0,0
Green: 0,53,0
Blue: 0,0,59
Yellow: 52,52,0
Cyan: 0,51,51
Magenta: 45,0,50
White Balance: on
R-Offset: 27
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 24
R-Gain: 5
G-Gain: 25
B-Gain: 20
10p white balance off
Gamma -1
Expert pattern off
xvYCC off
Motion lighting off
Black enhancer off
Picture Options
Color tone Warm 2
Digital Noise Filter Auto
MPEG Noise Filter Auto
HDMI Black Level Normal*** <--- See notes
Film mode Auto2*** <-- See notes
Auto Motion Plus Standard*** <--- See notes
LED motion plus Off*** <--- See notes
System/ECO Solution
ECO Sensor ON
Minimum backlight level 5
Tried the nitra setting and so far I like it. The only problem is I can't find the black enhancer setting. Can someone direct me to it or is it only for the 8000 series. I have a 7100. I start looking through this horrible e-manual. Side note, I thought Yamaha's manuals were bad for their AVR's. Samsung, what were you thinking with this manual?
post #1947 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by axm438 View Post

Pirates....what version panel do you have and what size is your tv? Your screen does look perfect in terms of clouding and flashlighting.

Oh No, that's not mine I have the 46.

Its a 55 from another forum member.

He did the massage / wiping technique to get a cloud/flashlight free panel.
post #1948 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by pappaduke View Post

Tried the nitra setting and so far I like it. The only problem is I can't find the black enhancer setting. Can someone direct me to it or is it only for the 8000 series. I have a 7100. I start looking through this horrible e-manual. Side note, I thought Yamaha's manuals were bad for their AVR's. Samsung, what were you thinking with this manual?

Its on the ES8000 only.
post #1949 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by fudsak View Post

Consider using Plex on a server PC and the app for your TV. It uses your PC to decode the video and you'll never have an issue with unsupported file types. It's also quite fancy looking.

does it downgrade the image? is it a transcoder?
post #1950 of 2633
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaa999Pa View Post

I have everything going through my Denon AVR-3312ci and then to my TV. Would you happen to know why i can't get the audio to work when i use Pandora through the 7100 smart hub? It shows that it plays, but i keep hearing the TV channel that was on before i switched over. I'm sure it's an input issue, but nothing i've tried has worked. I'm also using a Logitech Harmony One remote, so i don't usually touch inputs for anything. Even so, i did try different inputs on my Denon remote, but still nothing.
I've asked about this in an earlier post, but didn't get a response...

I think the answer is different depending on if you are using HDMI-CEC/Anynet and ARC or not.

If you are using HDMI-CEC/Anynet and ARC:

Assuming your TV signal is coming from a Fios/Cable/Sat box you have HDMI going through your AVR then on to the TV. Your source for this content on the AVR is likely Sat/Cbl, or something other than the "TV" source on the AVR.

- Make sure your HDMI cable is going to the HDMI 2 input on the Samsung as this port is the only one that has ARC functionality
- On the AVR make sure that your setting for HDMI Control is turned ON
- On the Samsung make sure Anynet is turned on and within Anynet the Receiver is recognized and turned on.
- On the Samsung make sure that Speakers are set to External

With this set up, when you go to Smart Hub, the Samsung should switch the AVR input to TV source and you should hear sound. If it doesn't automatically switch your source then you don't have Anynet/ARC working and you don't have either your cables or settings correct yet. Another thing to check is your input assignments/settings on the AVR to make sure TV source is set to auto and you're not assigning opt or cmp sources or something like that.

I tried this set up and this is where I found the issue of Samsung automatically switching the AVR source to TV every time I turned on the Samsung. The CEC/ARC functionality worked and I got streaming audio to play on the AVR but the automatic switching of source upon power up is a deal breaker for me.

So if you are not using ARC for streaming audio then you must use an optical cable from Samsung to AVR:

- On the AVR make sure your setting for HDMI Control is turned OFF
- On the Samsung make sure Anynet is turned OFF
- On the Samsung make sure Speakers are still set to External
- On the AVR input assignments make sure TV source is set to Opt 1 (assuming you connected your optical to Opt 1 port).
- When you go to Smart Hub and start streaming you need to make sure you switch your AVR to the TV source.

With this you lose all CEC/ARC functionality but you should be able to program your Harmony remote to do all your input switching for you when you go between watching TV and using Smart Hub content.
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