Official Samsung UNXXES7100 Thread. - Page 72

Good info. didn't know that about Standard Sound.

So am I really the only person who's wifi is terrible with this tv? My connection is solid and works everywhere else except the TV. I tried streaming Sons Of Anarchy on Netflix and it just won't work. It gets blurry and then totally stops streaming. I have not tried using ethernet yet. The funny thing is the router is in the same room as the TV so it shouldn't have a signal problem. Like I stated earlier, the PS3 which is on wifi also streams Netflix just fine.

Need some advice on setup for a new UN55ES7100 that is getting delivered tomorrow. I've been beating the net and forums into submission and have gone a bit cross eyed just trying to nail down a few details.

First my equipment in addition to the TV - PS3, HTPC with HDMI, Cable DVR box with HDMI and a Onkyo TX-SR313(3D/ARC capable) and a couple of years old programmable Harmony remote(don't have the model handy) - I'd like to know what others have done that use the receiver for sound from all inputs and also want to utilize some of the streaming apps from the TV out to the receiver. I'm guessing ARC will be involved but looking to understand the nuts and bolts a bit more and the best way to wire the devices - to the TV or all through the receiver etc...

any help is greatly appreciated

-W

I have everything output(apple TV, ps3, wii, DVD player, cable box, iPod dock) to my Yamaha AVR. The AVR is output to hdmi 2(arc)on the 7100. When I use the apps on the 7100, I have to make sure arc(hdmi control) is turned on in my AVR's settings in order to get sound output to my speakers connected to the AVR, otherwise I have to use the tvs speakers. Hope this helps you out. The sound out of the Netflix app is 5.1 Dolby digital. I don't use the other apps much, so I can't tell you much about what type of sound is output from them.

pappaduke thanks for the reply, do you know if there is any issues with Dolby truehd or DTS-HD setup that way...thought I had picked up on that somewhere. Planning on doing Blu-ray out of the HTPC.

Thanks!

-W

Just got the 3rd one dropped off today. Looks good right now, but the real test comes when the sun goes down

I've noticed less flashlighting or bleeding on this one than the previous two, but it literally just got here 30 minutes ago. Manufactured in 01/13, same as Panel #2 with the dead pixel.

No problems that I know of, but I only turn on arc when I need it. Noticed today that when I leave it on, I sometimes have difficulty getting audio that does not use arc. It could be my harmony one, but I'm not sure. Since I don't use it often, it's easier to leave it off til I need it. At some point I may troubleshoot it, but not now. You might want to go to a forum for your AVR. I'm sure someone there will be able to give you more specifics about your denon. Hope I was of some help.

I have a Denon AVR and run everything through it for sound. I initially set up the AVR to 7100 connection using HDMI with ARC functionality. It worked however there is some issue with the way Samsung uses ARC with Denon products. Upon turning everything on, after about 10 seconds, the Samsung forces the Denon to switch its selected source to the "TV" source which is what I would need to have happen if I was always watching streaming content. The problem is that most of the time I want to watch tv through my FIOS box. So with ARC I had to change the AVR back to my FIOS source every time I turned everything on after the Samsung forced the switch. This was annoying.

This seams to be an issue specific to Samsung and at least Denon products. I'm not sure if it is the same with other AVR brands. My old TV was a Sony and I never had this ARC problem with my Denon.

In the end I abandoned the ARC functionality and added an optical audio connection from the 7100 back to the AVR to get the streaming audio to my speakers. Its an extra connection and I lose any benefits of ARC but it works for me.

Same problem with my Yamaha. As stated, I only turn on arc on my AVR when I need it. Fortunately, I have other streaming options(PS3, Apple TV). You are right though, it is annoying.

What EQ settings do you use?

My 2nd one comes tomorrow for the same flashlighting and bleeding.....I'm just hoping its better than the 1st. My 1st was manufactured 01/13 also

I bring up the lower 2 bands to raise up the low end and also bring up the upper 2 bands as well so I dont dround out the high end. I only slightly raise the center bands but the low and high ends are a bit higher up. This adds up to a beefer over-all sound coming from the TV. Just don't raise up the lower end bands to high or you will get distortion from low bass sounds. Also don't go to high on the upper bands or the sound gets to tinny.This is completely a personal prefrence for me as my hearing got screwed up from my rock & roll LOUD concert music days. Just play around with the EQ while you are listening to typical programming and tweak to your personel tastes as well. Thats all there is to it.

Thanks alot... I found these settings by accident. I was just playing around with the various sound presets at the time. I'm really glad I found them because the SRS Tru Surround HD really gives the TV GREAT Surround sound when it is brodcasted. It is so obvious when it is since the room fills up with sound that seems like it really all around you. When not brodcasting, the sound is obviously comming from the TV position in front of you. Since this is not fake surround, It comes and goes depending on the brodcast Sound material. But I do like it alot!

Funny, this HDTV has sooooooo many features and options.... its Crazy.

I don't see how anyone would use all the features or even fully understand each one.

TV delivered today and the picture looks gorgeous - lucked out so far with no clouding/flashlight issues and so far no dead pixels. Did some minor tuning to try to get it where I liked the picture but haven't settled on anything yet...did run it through the Disney Blu-ray calibration and all in all looked good. I was able to successfully get ARC/anynet features setup and functioning correctly so far with no issues. I just bounce between devices using the Onkyo remote or hitting the apps button on the Samsung remote...Amazon prime looks pretty decent as well. I did have to update the drivers on my HTPC HDMI video display to get the Ceton tuner to display live TV correctly....

Only thing I haven't checked out is TrueHD or DTS-HD in the current setup, otherwise very happy with the purchase so far...

-W

Just got my replacement 60 inch.....another HS01 panel. This one still has some flashlighting and clouding but definitely not as bad as my 1st one. I'm just gonna have to learn to live with it. With this one, with the backlight set at 8, the flashlighting and clouding is not visible at all where as my 1st one it still could be seen at that level. This one was also manufactured Jan 2013. No dead pixels as some member experienced with their replacements.

I'm using PiratesCove's settings which is perfect for my viewing. Once I pass the break-in period, I'll try the massage technique to see if it works on this panel.

An ambient light set up behind the TV will greatly diminish flashlighting and clouding if you want to increase the backlight at some point.

Yeah...I was actually planning on doing that as well. This is what I was thinking about getting.....

http://www.amazon.com/Antec-HDTV-51-1-Inch-BIAS-LIGHTING/dp/B007TG5EG8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346258027&sr=8-2&keywords=antec+bias+lighting

AXM438

IMO the break in period is at least 300 hours. Then try the massage. As for ambient lighting this can help but just remember that this is just tricking your brain in what you are seeing and is best used in bat cave environments.

I use this backlighting kit. I used an upside down U pattern. I would recommend that if going with this particular kit you do a custom order and go with a dimmer in place of the standard in line switch.

Hi, I am new to this. I am trying to upgrade my firmware. My version currently is 001015. When I tried to do it online, it searched and came back and said there was no upgrade at this time. But I went to the Samsung site and found that there is and update # 26 something. Anyone know why my TV could not find it?

The latest updateis actually 1027. Since your tv is not finding it, just do it manually with a usb.

I notice you have contrast maxed at 100. Aren't you worried about putting a lot of strain on TV? Also viewing angle suffers terribly with such a high contrast ratio.

Has anyone had an issue where they are watching content with the Custom settings enabled for Auto Motion Plus (in my case judder & blur reduction both set to the max of 10) that the soap opera effect and artifacts during movement are not noticeable but the image is still very smooth yet changing the auto motion plus settings during playback of say a blu-ray disc and setting it to say "off" or "smooth" or "clear" then going back to the custom settings without changing the custom values results in a noticeably strong soap opera effect along with artifacts. This all occurring during the same session with the same disc, same HDMI input, same player, etc...and nothing at all changing other than toggling the auto motion plus settings to something else then toggling it back to custom.

I've also noticed this sometimes occurs if the source devices and/or the TV are turned off and then back on that the strong soap opera effect and artifacts return which I would typically expect when my settings are set to the max of 10 in my experience with previous Samsung sets.

It's quite bizarre that after toggling the power or auto motion plus settings back & forth that the video appears noticeably different and can be confirmed by rewinding what was just played.

I would note that almost all the time the soap opera effect and artifacts are visible and the smooth video without the soap opera effect + artifacts is rare but it does happen.

The video signal is being routed from the sources to an AVR + HDMI passthrough to the TV.

The best way I tried to describe this to Samsung is imagine you are watching a movie with the TV's brightness set to 100 and then you observe the current brightness then you change the brightness to 20 during playback and notice the brightness has clearly been reduced. Then you go back and change it to what it was at 100 and this time you notice that the brightness at 100 is not the same brightness level to your eye as it was before you kicked it down to 20 from 100. However, in this case it is not the brightness...it is with auto motion plus set to custom at the maximum level of 10 where the soap opera effect + artifacts are noticeable.

It's like there is an occasional rare occurance when the soap opera effect & artifacts are not visible and the video is still very smooth (not like when the auto motion plus is set to off) that the auto motion plus is working perfectly? since the soap opera effect & artifacts are side effects of image interpolation?

Anyone else experienced this issue and is it normal for the TV to process video using auto motion plus differently at times even when everything being sent to the TV is identical in terms of the blu-ray disc, source, HDMI input, cables, etc. and no settings changed or is this a firmware issue? I would normally expect that it would behave and look exactly the same if nothing is changed but I don't know enough on how this TV handles image interpolation to say for sure which is the reason for this post. Thanks in advance!

Same one that I have. It works well and turns on and off with the tv.

No dead pixels-that's nice...good to hear that people are able to use the settings.

For new members or anyone who missed them Settings for Movie, Natural, Standard and Dynamic:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1414638/official-samsung-unxxes7100-thread/1950#post_22943484

Thanks for the picture. I might have to get two....top and bottom since it looks like it doesnt spread much.

I use Movie Mode most of the time, the preset values set by Samsung don't allow for white clipping (distortions).

There is no strain on the HDTV, look at settings in the ES8000 thread many calibrators have Contrast at 100 also.

The Contrast set this way gives maximum ANSI (real) Contrast Ratios.

I use Standard for Xbox360 only.

Standard has Micro-Dimming so the Brightness (black) levels and Contrast (white) levels are constantly shifting.

As for viewing angle- its pretty low already...contrast level has little real impact.

My tv is really close to the wall. I believe its only about an inch or so. The light doesnt have alot of room to spread. Moving the tv off the wall some will take car of that.

Thanks for the explanation. By the way, I love the setting. Was just worried that such a high contrast ratio would hurt the tv, or shorten the life. Thanks for posting the settings though

I am having a problem where I can not turn the volume up or down unless I cycle through my sources. Anyone know why?