Official Samsung UNXXES7100 Thread. - Page 33

I thought they both had dual core processors? Though, I must confess I had switched my consideration to the GT50. I am still unsure of whether I will keep the television. I have had a hard time getting a consistent picture that I like. This is most likely a reflection on me as a user and not the television, but it is definitely challenging.

I think the biggest issues I have are white/black balance. My wife liked the "low" setting, which I hate because it compresses the black spectrum, but the normal setting (this is the HDMI black setting), seems to look really washed out/greyish. I am able to eliminate that by playing with gamma/brightness/contrast/"dark" settings, but then the whites look squashed. I may have had some success yesterday evening; I'll try again today and see if I still like the settings.

I found backlight to be the main setting to control light bleeding and/or clouding. Next in line is Brightness but you have to be careful in using this as you can end up clipping your black level(s).

How come when i turn on my tv ( Cox Cable HD/DVR ) using High Speed HDMI when the input box pops up it say 1980/1080/60i. The 1980/1080 might be wrong im trying to remember off the top of my head but im more worried about the 60i because if i remember correctly the other day is was reading 60p? Is it something to be worried about or is the picture quality less because of the 60i?

My Hi-Def COX box only supports up to 1080i, not 1080p. It's probably the same for your box as well. You can check in the settings for your box to see if it supports that feature to find out for sure. By the way for anybody interested... I tried a Microsoft wireless Mouse... Wireless USB Optical Mouse 2.0, model 1008. It works great!

Very few cable boxes offer 1080p... I have comcast...i can switch between 720p & 1080i...all tv programming is offered in those formats anyways...

im home now and it say 1920/1080/60i...what is the 60i and why all of a sudden switch to 60i when it was always 60p? and what is the 60i/p

60i represents 60 fields per second in "interlaced" format and 60p is 60 frames per second in "progressive" format.

Interlaced means the image is sent to the TV in a format where every other line of the image is written to the display in one field, then the remaining lines are written to the display in the second field yielding, in the case of 60i, 30 full images (frames) per second.

With progressive format, all lines of the image are sent to the display in sequence so 60p means that 60 full images are written to the display each second.

Without going into too much detail, modern digital TVs deinterlace 60i input converting it to progressive format for display, and apply sophisticated signal processing to make the image look as smooth and natural as possible. Most television signals are broadcast as 720/60p or 1080/60i and the TV converts the signal for proper display.

About the only sources of true 1080p video are Blu Ray players, some satellite channels, and a few Internet streaming video services like Vudu or Netflix.

If your cable box is capable of 1080/60p, then it is doing the deinterlacing and processing of the signal. You are likely better off letting the cable box output 1080/60i and letting the TV do the signal processing.

im having a major problem. i just got this tv last night and after some research figured out i needed to have everything from my AV receiver [onkyo n414] going into HDMI 2 on my tv for it to be able to get audio to work from the smart hub with ARC.

so now whenever i use my harmony remote, which turns the tv on, turns on directv and then turns on my onkyo and sets source to tv/cbl, which is what i have directv hooked up to on the back of my av receiver. it does all of that and then about 5 seconds after everything cuts on, my receiver turns to TV/CD which is what the receiver needs to be on to get the ARC to work. does anybody know whats going on? i know this may not be directly related to the TV but im sure others have had to do something similar to this? i cant figure out if its a harmony problem, a tv problem or a onkyo problem.

edit: ok it was the tv, disabling anynet+ fixed my issue, sorry! hopefully this helps others if theyre having the same problem, or if its already been covered sorry for being a noob!
Edited by coupey - 12/8/12 at 6:40am

I finally got around to taking a picture of my set at night...basically zero clouding under normal viewing conditions. The only time I see flash-lighting is in 3D mode when the back light is cranked to 20.

Camera info if anyone is interested on the exposure.

Nikon D40
ISO 1600
Shutter 1/20
F-stop 3.5



DSC_4710.JPG 2570k .JPG file

HI everyone. I got a 55es7100 after thanksgiving and finally calibrated it this week using the settings I've found in this forum. Last night I got to sit down for the first time and watch a Blu-ray on it (latest batman movie). Compared to my old 32" Sony HD CRT this set is amazing, except for the black levels. The black levels are so bad it was a huge distraction during this rather dark movie. I've configured both Movie and Standard mode using Nitra's settings and others and still find the black levels to be very grey and not uniform. I do know there is a little light bleed in the right bottom corner. I'm not familiar enough with Clouding to know if that is my issue or not. To get acceptable black levels in my dark room I pretty much have to turn the backlighting all the way down and/or brightness so low that the move is not watchable.

So, my questions to all you discerning and knowledgeable folks are
1) Whether I have too high of standards having come from a CRT and need to just live with this,
2) Do I need to exchange the panel because it should be better
3) Get an ES8000?

My calibration material is very old and I'm going to download what I've found on this site and try them instead. I'm just really bummed about this and am hoping there is a solution to make this otherwise wonderful TV not drive me crazy.

I do have my Standard mode configured to reduce/remove CE Dimming (increased brightness....pull down white level adjustments. I have read about people turning off CE dimming in standard mode in the service menu or making other adjustments but I am not comfortable doing that based on the potential warranty voiding I've also read about.

Thanks in advance!

Hello Everyone

I purchased a UN60ES7100F on black friday and received it yesterday. I have a few question(s) regarding the thin bezel design.

I have read reviews on c.net and some random other ones and they all point to a .2 inch bezel. When I woke up this morning I started to notice that the bezel doesn't look right, looked a lot thinker then the pictures i saw before purchasing. My other friend that recently just purchased a 55 version an its bezel design is a lot thiner then mine (last photo). Can any comment on this? not sure if the 60" has a bigger bezel by standard?!?






My buddy's

Yep...noted that too in the store with the bezel. That's why we went with the 55. Wife liked the smaller bezel.

Wow. I do have some clouding in the middle/lower portion of the screen. I have tried the "massage" treatment and it didn't seem to help. Set is 2 or 3 weeks old. I note a bit of flash lighting from all four corners, but I know these are not Plasma's so won't be perfect. However, wondering if I should try an exchange. I notice the clouding only on darker scenes. Obviously.

What are your set's settings and how old is it? Wonder if clouding will be reduced with time?
Edited by mwunder - 12/8/12 at 10:21am

Anyone else notice apps disappearing on Smart Hub? Last week I noted that Vudu was gone, I know I had it before because I was playing with it, and I redownloaded it. Yesterday...all apps disappeared. Amazon, Hulu, Vudu, etc.

Anyone else experience this? Very odd and is there a fix?

Thanks.

Has anyone tried the Disney WOW dvd to calibrate thier sets?

Thanks for the reply

Now makes me wonder if i should downgrade to 55 for the thinner bezel.

That and the $400 price difference made the decision easy. Though, compared to my old Bravia 52" LCD the 55 looks small in our room even though it is physically about the same size as my old TV. The 5" bezel on the old one didn't help and it being 6" deep either. It also weighed about 30lbs more. Damn these TV's are sleek.

FYI...I assumed thicker bezel is because of increase of physical size and needs more of a sturdier frame or increased number of LED's.
Edited by mwunder - 12/8/12 at 10:41am

Mondrin just watch the picture on the TV Stick with one of the two settings posted in threat 631. Watch it for a week or so then make an informed judgment.There has been a lot of positive feedback about those settings. Now I tweaked those settings myself I ran the tv on cool as opposed to warm did not like all the redness and I adjusted the tint

The fact that you had problems with the black levels on Batman the DVD could be how the dvd is manufactured

Try an other DVD and watch the regular HD prgramming before you go into all the settings on the tv.

Check the settings in the standard mode to make certain that they are the same for the imput from the blu ray player as they are for normal television

Since you have it, watch it carefully and make sure it's OK. If it is, be thankful and keep it.... plus it's certainly larger than the 55". If you return it, you'd be risking a replacement having problems. But, if it has other problems, too, you'll have several reasons to consider returning it.

My set is approx 4 months old...clouding and flashlighting have reduced slightly over time. When it was new, I could see some clouding.

After 2 months, I mounted it on the wall and did the massage treatment - I think mounting it really reduced the initial clouding to where it is today - very hard to notice.

Below are some key settings.

Mode: Standard
Backlight: 13
Contrast: 80
Brightness: 52
Sharpness: 40

Dynamic Contrast: Medium
Black Tone: Dark
R-Offset: 17
G-Offset: 17
B-Offset: 17

AMP: Clear
LED Motion Plus: On

All ECO and light sensor settings: Off

Firmware 1024

Black levels will appear better in Standard mode due to micro-dimming, which should also resolve some of your clouding. I have found setting the brightness to 53+ to reduce CE dimming washes out my picture and makes flashlighting a problem, so I keep my brightness at 47 - this may be why you picture looks washed out even with the white level adjustment. So I tend to just use movie mode if the movie is generally dark like batman with a lower backlight setting rather than having Standard mode dim the screen every 2 minutes, for most other content I use Standard mode.

I would only worry about exchanging your panel if you have obvious issues, such as banding or clouding that is viewable in normal conditions.

As for the ES8000 - If you can afford it get one, a better TV but at that price you might want to also look at the Sony HX950 to compare.

Try calibrating with the Disney WOW bluray or the AVS downloadable disc and see how that works for you. Every TV is different, so while you can copy Nitra's settings you may have to tweak to get your TV dialed in for the best picture quality, especially since the ES8000 is a different TV.

mwunder

Wow. I do have some clouding in the middle/lower portion of the screen. I have tried the "massage" treatment and it didn't seem to help. Set is 2 or 3 weeks old. I note a bit of flash lighting from all four corners, but I know these are not Plasma's so won't be perfect. However, wondering if I should try an exchange. I notice the clouding only on darker scenes. Obviously.

Just wanted to let you know that my 1st 46" 7100 also had bad clouding in the middle/lower portion of the screen looking like a 3 inch circle. After 3 weeks of useage, and a screen massage, the issue diminished in brightness quite a lot but was still noticeable in very dark scenes. I exchanged the set for other software issues and now my 2nd set has a panel that still has a tiny cloud in that same area but hardly noticeable at all. It only shows up in Movie mode or in 3D viewing and is no way like the first set I got. My panel is Ver US02 but so was the other one. I figure in 3 weeks after break-in, it will be entirely gone on this set since in Dynamic and Standard mode you can't see it at all like my last set still showed. I see no flash lighting to speak of like my first set as well so I've got a keeper this time. An exchange may be the way to go if your set is already 3 weeks old but the next one may be better or worse. It still seems like each panel has it's own characteristics as I had discovered with my last 2 US02's being so different in build quality. This is not what a TV manufacture should produce so I say GO FOR IT and get another. Your exchange period should start over along with the Samsung factory warranty. It took 4 TV's for me to get a GREAT one (still has SW bugs like every body else's) but the picture quality is excellent this time. I almost ripped COX a new one with my last TV thinking it was them due to very poor and noisy picture quality but turned out it was the BS firmware update that ruined the set. If you get another, DON'T do ANY firmware updates (it's to risky)!!!! And good luck with getting a great panel next time. They do exist unlike the 6500 series it seems!!!

For most people 2 to 3 weeks is not enough time to see improvement due to 'break in'. Based on my own experience you have to get to the 500 - 600 hour mark.

I found the calibration thread on this site very helpful. I highly recommend following the procedure as outlined.


http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration/3450

The above is not the first page of the thread, you'll want to navigate that. They have software downloadable that you can use to calibrate and a nice and extensive manual with explanations of how and why things are done they way they're done.


I think the big thing to me is that using other people's settings is not a wise approach.

I still am not sure I'm going to keep the television, but I think you should consider using the method as outlined in the thread./
Edited by Myrthin - 12/8/12 at 3:02pm

Here are my main settings for Standard for my bat cave. I still have not found any settings that I like for Movie.

Backlight: 9
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 43
Sharpness: 16
Color Tone: Warm2
HDMI Black Level: Low
Eco Mode: Off
Filmware: 1020
Other: LED back light Kit. This helped overall and especially with black bars.

I have some concerns on trying to disable CE Dimming. What may work for some other model may not be appropriate for an ES7100. There was a chart posted a few posts back showing the features of the ES Line. Pay particular attention to the CMR and Micro Dimming settings of the ES 7100 as compared to the others. Also make sure that the HDMI Black levels are consistent through out you system. You do not want to be converting back and forth as the signal goes from one component to the next.

Do get some current calibration material. I use Spears & Munsil and AVCHD 709(free).

Thanks everyone for the information and advice. The break-in period is something I hadn't considered. I've only had the TV for 2 weeks and we honestly only watch an average of 30 hours a week. Sounds like it will be months before it is properly broken in. I will be downloading the AVCHD calibration material this weekend and see how that is. I will also grab some other material to view. I borrowed my dad's Oppo bdp-83 to compare to the Panasonic I bought so can also do a little comparison with those two. I'll keep watching this thread for more information and post my findings as well.

My 52" A750 weighed about 2.5x as much and was MUCH larger than the 55" 7100. The A750 had like what might have been at least 6" bezel on all sides, ridiculous. (it also had all sorts of flickering issues and all of the official firmware release left it with non-defeatable AMP and DNR which were really bad issues, but it did have zero clouding or backlight bleeding and superb uniformity).

The 7100 even looks a lot smaller than even the C650 series 55".

Black Level needs to be on Normal if you send it PC Levels 0=black & 255=white and Low if you send it VIDEO levels 16=black and 235=white. If you use the wrong ones you either get a washed out and low contrast picture or crushed blacks and blown whites. Most cable boxes send out VIDEO levels. Most game systems can send out either way. PC can send out either way but it is best to send out PC levels (sadly NVIDIA does not provide a toggle and you need to do stupid tricks or changes to the install file to fix it, people have been slamming NVIDIA for years over this and they STILL don't get it, crazy).

If Normal looks super washed out then you are almost certainly using the wrong setting and your wife is probably correct that it should be on Low. If blacks are a little compressed then you need to adjust the gamma setting and 10pt white balance to adjust the gamma curve. A simple move at first might be to change gamma from 0 to +1.

Thanks Elmo, your posts have been killer - and everyone else too for that matter. Great thread!