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Official Samsung UNXXES7100 Thread. - Page 34

post #991 of 2637
12/8/12 at 4:14pm
Here is a quick calibration, firmware 1022.something. 55" model (I noticed that the 60" seem to use a Sharp panel, that is a very different panel and I doubt the calibration settings for 60" sets would be even slightly valid for 46" and 55" sets).

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 3-5 (for a very dark room, I even prefer 3 or 4); 5-6 for a darkish room; 8-9 for an overcast day; 11-13 for a bright day but no direct sunlight straight onto the screen)
Contrast: 98
Brightness: 43 [one quick way to set this is to bring up a screen that is mostly pure black [but a little something somewhere so it doesn't trigger the auto backlight to zero thing and then cahnge brightness starting it low like say 40 and then raising it until you suddenly see the screen get brighter and then one click back, any lower and pure black doesn't get lower and any higher and pure black gets lit up and is no longer pure black] [depending upon where the WB controls are set it will change what brightness setting you need
Sharpness: 0 [do not want to sharpen and digital signal, all you do is sharpen noise and artifacts, this is not an analog input!]
Color: 48
Tint: 50/50
Screen Adjust: Screen Fit
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
Color Space: Custom:
RED (R,G,B): 50,22,0
GREEN: 0,51,24
BLUE: 0,26,49
YELLOW: 50,49,24
CYAN: 0,50,50
MAGENTA: 49,27,49
WB:
Offsets R,G,B: 26,25,24
Gains: 20,25,28
10pt WB:
1(R,G,B): 0,0,0
2: 0,-1,0
3: 0,0,0
4: 0,0,-1
5: 0,1,1
6: 0,1,0
7: 0,1,1
8: -1,1,1
9: 0,2,2
10: -1,0,1
Gamma: +1
Color Tone: Warm2
DNF: Off
MPEG NF: Off
HDMI Black Level: Normal for 0-255 sources and Low for 16-235 sources

My set is very new though so if you have used your set for a while it might differ a bit since mine has not had much time to settle in yet or drift (I don't know if LED drift like CCFL backlights do and if they do if they drift more or less, CCFL sets often need quite a different calibration after a few months compared to say the first week or two). Every set will be a bit different regardless. LED backlighting can be spiky so my i1 Pro spectro might not perfectly read it. I think these were calibrated at BL 6 to give it just a bit more light to read than 3 or 4.
Edited by skibum5000 - 12/8/12 at 4:19pm
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post #992 of 2637
12/8/12 at 4:18pm
Has anyone noticed that if you go to 3D mode and set Movie mode that the default calibration looks truly hideous?? Both flat and blown out at the same time! I need to turn the contrat way down (into the 60s or low 70s) from the default in the 90s in that mode to stop horrendously clipping on some channels. I mean the defaults look utterly god awful and yet the defaults for 2D mode aren't really that bad looking (in movie mode). Is my set messed up? Or did they pick some weird horror show for 3D color defaults?
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post #993 of 2637
12/8/12 at 4:28pm
how many of yall have calibrated your tvs using disneys wow disc? i guess i need to read up on it more but i just purchased it. do you start using movie mode? and use advanced calibration?
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post #994 of 2637
12/8/12 at 5:00pm
I started doing some additional calibraiton of my set today and noticed something interesting. Some of the black level issues I'm seeing appears to be completely backlight related. If I go to an HDMI input where the device is off I get the nice black screen with the input on the upper right and the notification in middle. Looking at this image in a dark room on Standard, Native or Dynamic I can barely see any light coming from the set. If I turn the backlight up to 20 I just start to see some in the 4 corners. In Movie mode, viewing from optimal centered position, The middle of the set is fairly dark but the 4 corners are quite gray. If I move even a few degrees offcenter the far side of the screen lightens up even more. I'm guessing this is the lack of microdimming in movie mode but wanted to see if such obvious backlighting is "normal" for movie mode? Again, this set is very new so perhaps it will improve.

When viewing this screen, most adjustments beyond backlight have no effect on the lighting I'm seeing or black levels.
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post #995 of 2637
12/8/12 at 7:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum5000 View Post

Black Level needs to be on Normal if you send it PC Levels 0=black & 255=white and Low if you send it VIDEO levels 16=black and 235=white. If you use the wrong ones you either get a washed out and low contrast picture or crushed blacks and blown whites. Most cable boxes send out VIDEO levels. Most game systems can send out either way. PC can send out either way but it is best to send out PC levels (sadly NVIDIA does not provide a toggle and you need to do stupid tricks or changes to the install file to fix it, people have been slamming NVIDIA for years over this and they STILL don't get it, crazy).
If Normal looks super washed out then you are almost certainly using the wrong setting and your wife is probably correct that it should be on Low. If blacks are a little compressed then you need to adjust the gamma setting and 10pt white balance to adjust the gamma curve. A simple move at first might be to change gamma from 0 to +1.

Okay, this just solved a bunch of problems. I'm not sure I understand why. So, originally, my wife was playing with the settings and she had set the dynamic contrast on and the hdmi black level at low, among other things. This looked terrible to me. So, I calibrated my TV using the downloadable program from this website, on my bluray player (with all of those settings off and the black level on high). My bluray player appears to have the option to output at rgb or ycbcr 10 or 12 bit. This was set on auto. On the blu ray player the calibration looked great. On the satellite box, it looked okay, but a bit washed out. I use my Denon receiver as a video switch and the settings stay across devices. So, what I've done is set my xbox, bluray player, and satellite box all to RGB output. I then set the TV black level to low and re-calibrated using the disk. Looks much better now on all content. Actually, it looks fantastic. Off-axis, not so much, but straight on, it's just great. Thank you for this tidbit. It seems I'm probably losing a bit of range on my xbox and bluray player by doing this so it looks like I have some more research to do to figure that out.


One annoying feature still on the TV which I'm guessing is related to the edge lighting is that on certain scenes, I can see a thin edge of brighter area right at the bottom of the screen.
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post #996 of 2637
12/8/12 at 8:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum5000 View Post

Has anyone noticed that if you go to 3D mode and set Movie mode that the default calibration looks truly hideous?? Both flat and blown out at the same time! I need to turn the contrat way down (into the 60s or low 70s) from the default in the 90s in that mode to stop horrendously clipping on some channels. I mean the defaults look utterly god awful and yet the defaults for 2D mode aren't really that bad looking (in movie mode). Is my set messed up? Or did they pick some weird horror show for 3D color defaults?

Yeah I had the same reaction with 3D at first as it pushed color saturation hard and maxed my backlight. To set my 3D mode I used the 2D to 3D conversion of the TV and put in the Disney WOW disc. That way I could get the TV into 3D mode and wear the 3D glasses to "calibrate" as the glasses do change how the TV looks.

My guess is Samsung pushed saturation and backlight to compensate for the reduced light getting to your eyes with 3D glasses on.
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post #997 of 2637
12/8/12 at 8:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mondrin View Post

I started doing some additional calibraiton of my set today and noticed something interesting. Looking at this image in a dark room on Standard, Native or Dynamic I can barely see any light coming from the set...In Movie mode, viewing from optimal centered position, The middle of the set is fairly dark but the 4 corners are quite gray. If I move even a few degrees offcenter the far side of the screen lightens up even more. I'm guessing this is the lack of microdimming in movie mode but wanted to see if such obvious backlighting is "normal" for movie mode? Again, this set is very new so perhaps it will improve.
When viewing this screen, most adjustments beyond backlight have no effect on the lighting I'm seeing or black levels.

That would be the lack of micro-dimming you are seeing. I also had significant light bleed (basically clouding) coming from all 4 corners in movie mode. Massaging the screen, very carefully, helped the problem immensely.

Another thing you can do is decrease your backlight of your TV by using the ECO sensor so when you are in the dark the edge lit problem isn't as prominent.

However, it can only do so much as the TV is an edge lit LED set so when sitting off-angle you will always see the lightening up of the edges to some degree - the cost of having such a slim TV.
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post #998 of 2637
12/8/12 at 8:55pm
Ugh. I c,early still don't understand the relationship of the color output (rgb et al) to the range output.
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post #999 of 2637
12/9/12 at 1:07am
Dang my set does have the stupid striping issue, not as bad as my C series had it but it has it. I'm becoming more sure it is not something they do on purpose as some sort of dithering or anti-posterization but a massive production problem they have had ever since they switched to this new panel type starting with the C series since I can slide a solid block of color around the screen and I notice that the difference between odd and even scanlines is very small at the bottom left and large at the upper right, if they did it on purpose why would they only do it on some parts of the screen and not the same way on all. Most sets have slight variations across the screen in many ways, color temp in one region may differ a bit from in another, but to have a starl difference between even vs odd scanlines in the same spot is bizarre. I think they must have made some terrible design decision for the production plant for their newer screens that created odd scanlines and even scanlines each in their own batch, which makes it very hard to align them to respond the exact same way. Just a guess of course.

Something in the process they used to create whatever they need to create to make the screens seems to have lain down the even and odd scanlines separately and they had serious quality control issues in making the even and odd lines respond the same way to the same signal with whatever they layed down.

You can send the SAME color, in a giant solid block of one color and the even and odd scanlines will light up some of the green sub pixels to different degrees, take a close look and clearly see brighter green every other scanline. It tends to show most in oranges. If you use the CMS to add some green into the blue and red primaries then it shows up in more different colors. Absolutely ridiculous. I think they bungled whatever it was they put down the arrays and they are just shipping all the panels out since maybe it would've been costly to redo the manufacturing lines to do it properly. Some sets seem to be all but free of it, others not so much at all. Ridiculous. Can't avoid it by going to SONY either as they share the same panels these days. The sharp panels in the 60" sets never have this issue, although they have their own pluses and minuses in other regards.

It's not super bad on this set but it's ridiculous that any set should have such a thing at all where the same signal doesn't produce the same output and will light up the green signal differently just because it is an even vs and odd scanline. On my C650 it was quite bad and there were fine stripes going across the screen on many, many shades. I've seen it that badly in plenty of display models in stores too, also all but absent or very minor on many as well. Not nearly anywhere as bad on this set as on the other one, but definitely still there. The D series sets seemed to suffer from it by far the most and the C series next most but they haven't fully tamed it for all ES series sets, I bet at least half have it to at least a small degree and a few to a large degree.
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post #1000 of 2637
12/9/12 at 8:38am
@EarlMagnus' tweet on the Smart Hub flash issue was retweeted this weekend and received this response from @SamsungSupport

https://twitter.com/SamsungSupport/status/277810376979144705
Quote:
Hello, our techs are aware of this issue and are tentatively releasing a patch on Dec 20th. Stay tuned, we'll tweet it. TY! ^p
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post #1001 of 2637
12/9/12 at 9:48am
I got a PM on what is a LED Backlight Kit and what it is for. I decided to answer this question here so that others my find this useful.

My 55ES7100 is in a spare bedroom (8.5' X 14'). I have blackout shades and curtains with only a ceiling light which I keep off most of the time. So this room is truly like a bat cave, even during the day. In this kind of environment, one needs additional, low level lighting. Here is a good short article to read.

Here is what I use. I wish this kit came with a dimmer instead of an on/off switch. I mounted the LED lights in an upside down U shape/pattern. I do my calibration with the lights off. If your TV is in a bright room or has additional low level lighting you will probably not need something like this.
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post #1002 of 2637
12/9/12 at 4:14pm
Quick question...

Is there any way you can connect Bluetooth headphones to the TV itself? Or do you have to buy wireless TV headphones? Can a soundbar enable you to use Bluetooth headphones on the TV?
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post #1003 of 2637
12/9/12 at 9:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteamRollerCC View Post

Quick question...
Is there any way you can connect Bluetooth headphones to the TV itself? Or do you have to buy wireless TV headphones? Can a soundbar enable you to use Bluetooth headphones on the TV?

Bluetooth headphones are not supported by the TV. Only way to get them to work is to send the sound to a separate Bluetooth transmitter, like a laptop, or this:

http://www.amazon.com/Miccus-Home-RTX-Bluetooth-Transmitter/dp/B00713RSE0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1355115569&sr=8-6&keywords=bluetooth+transmitter
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post #1004 of 2637
12/10/12 at 8:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by EAnglum View Post

My set is approx 4 months old...clouding and flashlighting have reduced slightly over time. When it was new, I could see some clouding.
After 2 months, I mounted it on the wall and did the massage treatment - I think mounting it really reduced the initial clouding to where it is today - very hard to notice.
Below are some key settings.
Mode: Standard
Backlight: 13
Contrast: 80
Brightness: 52
Sharpness: 40
Dynamic Contrast: Medium
Black Tone: Dark
R-Offset: 17
G-Offset: 17
B-Offset: 17
AMP: Clear
LED Motion Plus: On
All ECO and light sensor settings: Off
Firmware 1024

Thanks...will play with those settings. On the WB...are your gains set at 25?
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post #1005 of 2637
12/10/12 at 8:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwunder View Post

Thanks...will play with those settings. On the WB...are your gains set at 25?

Yes, I left the gains at the factory value of 25.
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post #1006 of 2637
12/10/12 at 1:57pm
And for 3D mode (the default settings in all picture modes are incredibly, horrifically far off-base unlike the 2D mode ones, so these will almost certainly be better than your sets defaults no matter how different your copy is from mine):

these are not 100% fine-tuned yet, the set has less controls and they are finicky and hard to control compared to 2D mode

Picture Mode: Movie

Backlight: use the guide for my 2D modes only you might want to multiple all those settings by two since 3D mode is dim

Contrast: 70 [for some reason using high contrast in 3D mode makes for horrible channel clipping at the upper end, 3D mode is stuck with contrast ratios worse than half of 2D mode and maybe only 1/3 it seems).

Brightness: 45

Sharpness: 0

Color: 50

Tint: 50/50

Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
Color Space: CUstom [make sure to go straight from Auto to Custom and do not scroll past Native first!]:
R,G,B
Red: 50,6,0
Green: 0,69,30
Blue: 0,15,42
Yellow: 50,55,18
Cyan: 0,62,49
Magenta: 50,1,43

WB: R,G,B:
Offsets: 25,26,25
Gains: 19,38,18

Gamma: 0

Color Tone: Warm2

All the DNR stuff: Off

HDMI Black Level: as explained for 2D

I don't know why people say you need special equipment to calibrate 3D mode. Maybe with the non-active shutter, polarized field sets?? Definitely not for these. No difference at all.
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post #1007 of 2637
12/10/12 at 2:02pm
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT CMS CALIBRATION

One curious thing that a European reviewer pointed out is that when you use the CMS it works totally different depending upon whether you scroll across the list of items up vs down to get to it! If you scroll from Auto to Native to Custom vs wrapping around up straight from Auto to Custom the CMS starts with a different default and all the numbers mean totally different things! So if you use someone's CMS settings it is also crucial to know whether they passed through the Native option before selecting Custom! I believe this a very little known but utterly crucial fact.

So in my 2D settings post a few posts above make to keep this in mind.

Color Space: Custom: (I believe I was on Auto and hit the up arrow on the remote to jump straight to Custom and did not hit the down arrow twice to pass over Native first, believe it or not this absolutely matters! I need to go back check to make sure)

If you do not keep that in mind you will use the wrong color space plus settings meant for a different color space and get things doubly wrong. This may, in part, explain why some detailed calibrations involving the CMS had some people saying it made things look much worse, people were scrolling to the custom option from opposite directions and not using the same space as it turns out!
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post #1008 of 2637
12/10/12 at 3:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum5000 View Post

IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT CMS CALIBRATION
One curious thing that a European reviewer pointed out is that when you use the CMS it works totally different depending upon whether you scroll across the list of items up vs down to get to it! If you scroll from Auto to Native to Custom vs wrapping around up straight from Auto to Custom the CMS starts with a different default and all the numbers mean totally different things! So if you use someone's CMS settings it is also crucial to know whether they passed through the Native option before selecting Custom! I believe this a very little known but utterly crucial fact.
So in my 2D settings post a few posts above make to keep this in mind.
Color Space: Custom: (I believe I was on Auto and hit the up arrow on the remote to jump straight to Custom and did not hit the down arrow twice to pass over Native first, believe it or not this absolutely matters! I need to go back check to make sure)
If you do not keep that in mind you will use the wrong color space plus settings meant for a different color space and get things doubly wrong. This may, in part, explain why some detailed calibrations involving the CMS had some people saying it made things look much worse, people were scrolling to the custom option from opposite directions and not using the same space as it turns out!

Really? If this is true, what in the world were they thinking? I hope this is wrong.

I have a question for you. I haven't tried your settings from a few posts ago but it seems like you have the right gear to get a good calibration and I am assuming the knowledge. One thing that I am wondering about is this Micro-Dimming feature. I hear that it is disabled in Movie mode and I note that is the mode you start with. Is this feature not cracked up to be that great? If it is something that is very noticeable, like on my old Sony Bravia when darker scenes played, like credits, the whole set would dim I would want it off. I have been trying to play with different settings and I have noted more visible dimming when I start with Standard mode on darker scenes. I didn't think that micro dimming would be that obvious or something else is going on. I did have brightness set to 52 since I read that helps extreme dimming.

I wish there was better documentation on the features and their affects.
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post #1009 of 2637
12/10/12 at 4:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwunder View Post

Really? If this is true, what in the world were they thinking? I hope this is wrong.

It is true. I guess they wanted you to be able to adjust it starting from two different base points. I suppose that makes sense since you might not have enough ability to adjust otherwise the way it is set up but they really should document that though! I tried entering custom mode both ways and the gamut changed in custom mode depending whether I scrolled to it directly from Auto up to Custom or from auto to down to normal down to custom.
Quote:
I have a question for you. I haven't tried your settings from a few posts ago but it seems like you have the right gear to get a good calibration and I am assuming the knowledge. One thing that I am wondering about is this Micro-Dimming feature. I hear that it is disabled in Movie mode and I note that is the mode you start with. Is this feature not cracked up to be that great? If it is something that is very noticeable, like on my old Sony Bravia when darker scenes played, like credits, the whole set would dim I would want it off. I have been trying to play with different settings and I have noted more visible dimming when I start with Standard mode on darker scenes. I didn't think that micro dimming would be that obvious or something else is going on. I did have brightness set to 52 since I read that helps extreme dimming.
I wish there was better documentation on the features and their affects.

I haven't experimented with that much. On other Samsungs movie mode was always the way to go. On the C650 it was there even to a small degree even in Movie mode. I made sure to do the calibrations with other stuff on the screen at the same time to avoid any possibility of it altering the gamma measurements and such. I do notice that on pure black signal it turns the backlight to 0 even in movie mode. I haven't really noticed it doing anything otherwise but haven't fully checked it out. I think it's pretty mild if it is there in movie mode (other than the sudden BL to 0 when a movie occasionally sends a few pure black frames and then when the signals come back it takes and instant to turn the backlight back on), but for merely very dark scenes in movies like star fields or credits it doesn't noticeably seem to do anything.

What you describe happening in standard mode might be micro-dimming but it also might be dynamic contrast. I honestly leave all of that stuff off, it seems dramatic at first, but you eventually realize it randomly crushes away details and does other weird stuff. People get used to all sorts of sharpening and dynmaic this and Cool tone that but that is NOTHING like what you'd ever see in a movie theater whether film-based or digital and nothing like the movies or TV shows were meant to be seen as. The realistic calibrations might seem dull for the first hour but after that you realize it looks way more like real life or like a real movie theater.

As for HDMI Black Level hpefully all the things to hook to set the explain what level they put out. If not you can run test patterns through them or you could enter all the 2D settings I have above and then flip between HDMI Low or Normal and play some TV or a movie and if flipping it one way makes tons of detail in the shadows totally disappear into large chunks of solid black then that way is bad or if flipping it one way suddenly makes even the darkest parts of scenes look dark gray and if everything looks washed out (and flipping it the other way doesn't make lots of shadow disappear but merely makes it look darker) then you know that is the wrong way. After that you don't have to keep my settings but at least you should hopefully know which HDMI Black Level to use for each input.

Often things like RGB mode are PC levels 0-255 = use Normal but not 100% always. If it says PC Levels output or 0-255 output then use Normal. If it is says video levels or 16-235 then use Low. If it uses other terms them you have to play around. It is true that for some dumb reason many makers each make up their own term which makes it confusing when it really should be trivial, unfortunately.
Edited by skibum5000 - 12/10/12 at 4:25pm
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post #1010 of 2637
12/10/12 at 6:29pm
720 p
Comcast broadcast all their channels in HD in this format in my area.

That what the set tells me when I press the info button........ tells me 720p

The question I have.................................... does the 7100 up convert it to 1080 or 1080p or does it stay 720

Set up Cable into the Tivo.......... then HDMI to the tv

I can find little documentation on this about up converting.
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post #1011 of 2637
12/10/12 at 6:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by James T View Post

720 p
Comcast broadcast all their channels in HD in this format in my area.
That what the set tells me when I press the info button........ tells me 720p
The question I have.................................... does the 7100 up convert it to 1080 or 1080p or does it stay 720
Set up Cable into the Tivo.......... then HDMI to the tv
I can find little documentation on this about up converting.

There might be an option in the set top box settings to auto-switch between 1080i and 720p. It would stink if they force you to all 720p, you lose half the resolution on many channels! (granted one might say cable already compresses things to half of 1920x1080 anyway tongue.gif).
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post #1012 of 2637
12/10/12 at 6:44pm
ski bum
Just a thought I used the settings in post 631 by Ticmxman2 config

I tweaked them a little
temperature cool and

increased the tint 2

I am happy with the results others have used both settings in the post and are quite satisfied with the results.

If you intend to try them make certain that you write your current settings down so you can go back to them if required.

I would suggest that you try the settings for a couple of days and see if you are satisfied with them.
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post #1013 of 2637
12/10/12 at 6:49pm
ski bum

I use the tivo with a cable card as my set top box and I have it set to 1080i

but I am certain that it does not upconvert cause the info button tells me 720 is on the screen
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post #1014 of 2637
12/11/12 at 6:04am
James Tiberius,

If you like ticmans settings, by all means, use them. However, Skibums are very similar to what I've come up with using the calibration disk from this website. I am finally starting to be happy with the picture this way. The color and range look much more accurate to me. I did not like ticmans settings and I think there are a few reasons. 1. Dynamic contrast is high. 2. Sharpness is high. 3. Brightness is high. 4. Contrast is too low. On the test patterns, this TV seems to be able to 100 contrast without shifting color. I've done the calibration in all three modes. I use movie for the most part. But all are acceptable depending content and conditions (daylight, etc...). What I haven't done yet is configure for 3d. I am not sure how I want to approach that. It would've nice to have assignable settings. I think the tv may do that for 3d but I'm not sure. Meaning am I able to adjust my settings in say movie mode for 3d and not have some of it shift over to 2d content?
Edited by Myrthin - 12/11/12 at 6:26am
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post #1015 of 2637
12/11/12 at 6:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by James T View Post

ski bum
I use the tivo with a cable card as my set top box and I have it set to 1080i
but I am certain that it does not upconvert cause the info button tells me 720 is on the screen

I have a TiVo Premier and there is a way to hard set your output resolution. Go into your video settings and set it for 1080i - deselect the other resolutions. Note, if you stream with Netflix via TiVo, you can select 1080P as well...this will allow the full 1080P signal to pass if its available. Keep in mind though, you could see your TV swap between 1080i and 1080P until the Netflix stream is 100%.
Edited by EAnglum - 12/11/12 at 6:20am
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post #1016 of 2637
12/11/12 at 6:34am
The folllowing are Ticman's settings.


As a start, I'd do this (in parentheses)

Pic mode: Standard
Backlight: 10 (keep the eco sensor off. this setting is going to depend on your lighting in the room)
Contrast: 75....(100)
Brightness: 45...(43)
Sharpness: 30 .. (0)
Color: 49 (47)
Tint: 50-50
Screen adjustment: 16:9 or screen fit
Advanced Settings
Dynamic contrast: high (off)
Black tone : dark (off)
Flesh tone: +2 (0)
Rgb: off
Color space: auto
Gamma: -2 (+1)
Motion lighting: off
Picture options: warm 1
Digital noise filter: auto (off)
MPEG filter: auto (off)
Film mode: auto1 (off, because I don't know what it does)
Auto motion plus: clear
LED motion plus: on

System
Eco solution
Energy saving: off
Eco sensor: on (off)
Minimum backlight: 6
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post #1017 of 2637
12/11/12 at 8:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Myrthin View Post

The folllowing are Ticman's settings.
As a start, I'd do this (in parentheses)
Pic mode: Standard
Backlight: 10 (keep the eco sensor off. this setting is going to depend on your lighting in the room)
Contrast: 75....(100)
Brightness: 45...(43)
Sharpness: 30 .. (0)
Color: 49 (47)
Tint: 50-50
Screen adjustment: 16:9 or screen fit
Advanced Settings
Dynamic contrast: high (off)
Black tone : dark (off)
Flesh tone: +2 (0)
Rgb: off
Color space: auto
Gamma: -2 (+1)
Motion lighting: off
Picture options: warm 1
Digital noise filter: auto (off)
MPEG filter: auto (off)
Film mode: auto1 (off, because I don't know what it does)
Auto motion plus: clear
LED motion plus: on
System
Eco solution
Energy saving: off
Eco sensor: on (off)
Minimum backlight: 6

Just Remember this, keep in mind that one's calibaration settings might be ideal for their "OWN" set and lighting/room conditions, it doesn't mean it will be ideal for another person even with an identical set. There are so many varialbles that go into play here:

*Size of the screen
*Viewing distances
*Viewing angles
*Windows/Doors/Curtains (or lack thereof)
*Lighting conditions, natural or artificial

Just keeping it real here, not trying to burst anyones bubble....
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post #1018 of 2637
12/11/12 at 8:45am
I completely agree. Have to calibrate to the room and set. But, odds are that the numbers should be somewhat similar.
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post #1019 of 2637
12/11/12 at 10:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum5000 View Post

It is true. I guess they wanted you to be able to adjust it starting from two different base points. I suppose that makes sense since you might not have enough ability to adjust otherwise the way it is set up but they really should document that though! I tried entering custom mode both ways and the gamut changed in custom mode depending whether I scrolled to it directly from Auto up to Custom or from auto to down to normal down to custom.
I haven't experimented with that much. On other Samsungs movie mode was always the way to go. On the C650 it was there even to a small degree even in Movie mode. I made sure to do the calibrations with other stuff on the screen at the same time to avoid any possibility of it altering the gamma measurements and such. I do notice that on pure black signal it turns the backlight to 0 even in movie mode. I haven't really noticed it doing anything otherwise but haven't fully checked it out. I think it's pretty mild if it is there in movie mode (other than the sudden BL to 0 when a movie occasionally sends a few pure black frames and then when the signals come back it takes and instant to turn the backlight back on), but for merely very dark scenes in movies like star fields or credits it doesn't noticeably seem to do anything.
What you describe happening in standard mode might be micro-dimming but it also might be dynamic contrast. I honestly leave all of that stuff off, it seems dramatic at first, but you eventually realize it randomly crushes away details and does other weird stuff. People get used to all sorts of sharpening and dynmaic this and Cool tone that but that is NOTHING like what you'd ever see in a movie theater whether film-based or digital and nothing like the movies or TV shows were meant to be seen as. The realistic calibrations might seem dull for the first hour but after that you realize it looks way more like real life or like a real movie theater.
As for HDMI Black Level hpefully all the things to hook to set the explain what level they put out. If not you can run test patterns through them or you could enter all the 2D settings I have above and then flip between HDMI Low or Normal and play some TV or a movie and if flipping it one way makes tons of detail in the shadows totally disappear into large chunks of solid black then that way is bad or if flipping it one way suddenly makes even the darkest parts of scenes look dark gray and if everything looks washed out (and flipping it the other way doesn't make lots of shadow disappear but merely makes it look darker) then you know that is the wrong way. After that you don't have to keep my settings but at least you should hopefully know which HDMI Black Level to use for each input.
Often things like RGB mode are PC levels 0-255 = use Normal but not 100% always. If it says PC Levels output or 0-255 output then use Normal. If it is says video levels or 16-235 then use Low. If it uses other terms them you have to play around. It is true that for some dumb reason many makers each make up their own term which makes it confusing when it really should be trivial, unfortunately.

Thank you for explaining that. I also try to keep things off and prefer a more realistic look. Maybe in my messing around I turned on dynamic contrast so will have to check that.

It appears that there is info on how to output either RGB or Video from multiple sources on this site, so that is a good thing. I don't have anything unusual and if I run into a question that I can't find answered, of course, I will ask.
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post #1020 of 2637
12/11/12 at 11:46am
I was wondering what everyone sees if they use Menu->Support->Self Diagnosis->Picture Test?

If you look at the orange soccer ball at the bottom right and then blue bucket to the left of that do you notice that every other 'scanline' going across the soccer ball is brighter orange than the one above and below it and that for the bucket it is every other line is a brighter shade of blue? If you don't notice that from normal distance, what about if you go close to the screen? Trying to figure out the odd vs even scanlines putting out somewhat different shades even when all are fed the same color issue that some sets have. Thanks.

Yes/No:
TV size:
Panel Type (SQ01,HS01,US02, etc.):

My results:
Yes, pretty clearly so. The object seem to have horizontal stripes running across them, every other scanline is clearly a brighter shade.
55" (ES7100)
US02

Someone else's so far:
No, not at all.
60" (ES8000)
HS01 (Sharp panel, apparently used in all 60" models)
Edited by skibum5000 - 12/11/12 at 1:51pm
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AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung UNXXES7100 Thread.