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The "Official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A1020, RX-A2020 and RX-A3020 Thread - Page 38

post #1111 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Have you tried syncing them with the AVR settings?

Not sure I understand which setting in the AVR. I turned off the 24p in the Oppo 103 and It synched. Others say it's a problem with the display. There is no sync issues with ATT cable TV .... it's with DVD & BR Disc's.
post #1112 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by howlinrock View Post



Not sure I understand which setting in the AVR. I turned off the 24p in the Oppo 103 and It synched. Others say it's a problem with the display. There is no sync issues with ATT cable TV .... it's with DVD & BR Disc's.
Cant you sync each input individually with the AVR? On my 675 its Menu > Setup > Sound > Lipsync
Edited by Bond 007 - 9/9/13 at 8:17pm
post #1113 of 1654
Hello.

I am thinking of replacing my existing pioneer lx83/sc37 with yamaha a2020.
I don't consider it an upgrade, but hopefully it will be at the same level.
I want to know if there are any issues (hardware,malfunctions etc) i should know ...
post #1114 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by vadergr View Post

Hello.

I am thinking of replacing my existing pioneer lx83/sc37 with yamaha a2020.
I don't consider it an upgrade, but hopefully it will be at the same level.
I want to know if there are any issues (hardware,malfunctions etc) i should know ...
Nothing in particular that I am aware of. It would serve you well to read this thread.
post #1115 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by vadergr View Post

Hello.

I am thinking of replacing my existing pioneer lx83/sc37 with yamaha a2020.
I don't consider it an upgrade, but hopefully it will be at the same level.
I want to know if there are any issues (hardware,malfunctions etc) i should know ...

Works well but I'd suggest doing the firmware upgrade by USB and not online. I had to factory reset and then ended up having to do it by USB anyway. Same problem reported by others.
post #1116 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by sutton8 View Post

Works well but I'd suggest doing the firmware upgrade by USB and not online. I had to factory reset and then ended up having to do it by USB anyway. Same problem reported by others.
+1 Its a good idea to keep copies of previous firmware anyway in case the update gives you problems. Something that seems fairly common at Yamaha lately.
post #1117 of 1654
Hi All, I have a quick question maybe someone can answer. Am I better off not B-Amping my mains with my 3020 due to the fact that the power output goes down as more channels are being used. Meaning if I don't Bi-Amp I'm only using 5 channels compared to seven when Bi-Amped.

Thanks
post #1118 of 1654
There is no advantage to biamping with any AVR. Its a marketing gimmick. Seriously...
post #1119 of 1654
What is the reference level Yamaha sets up with YPAO?

If I play -12dBFS pink noise (from a digital source) at a -30 dB level on my RX-A1020, it will after calibration measure a SPL of 75dBC. I thought the intentions was to have 0dB on the AVR to correspond to 105dBC, but apparently the Yamaha wants it +12dB louder.

Have I missed something here?
post #1120 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by sveinse View Post

What is the reference level Yamaha sets up with YPAO?

If I play -12dBFS pink noise (from a digital source) at a -30 dB level on my RX-A1020, it will after calibration measure a SPL of 75dBC. I thought the intentions was to have 0dB on the AVR to correspond to 105dBC, but apparently the Yamaha wants it +12dB louder.

Have I missed something here?

TBH I always thought 0db on a typical receiver was around 75db. If they set zero to reference level it would be searingly loud in a typical domestic listening environment.
post #1121 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by sutton8 View Post

TBH I always thought 0db on a typical receiver was around 75db. If they set zero to reference level it would be searingly loud in a typical domestic listening environment.

No, not Yamaha apparently.

So here is what I think reference levels are (AFAIK): The level should be calibrated to either give 75dBC on -30dBFS pink noise, or 85dBC on -20dBFS pink noise. Both are thus the same level.

When the AVR is calibrated to reference level, playing 0dBFS on level -30dB should yield 75dBC. Given a source, e.g. a movie with -30dB dialogue level, setting the receiver on -30dB will then give the same reference 75dBC dialogue level.

Yet my YPAO calibrates it such that when I play a -12dBFS sound on -30dB it gives 75dBC and not 63dBC like it should.
post #1122 of 1654
Yes my idea of reference is 105 plus 10 more for the sub. But the test tones played through the amp are way lower than that, usually 75-85. So perhaps that is roughly correct.
post #1123 of 1654
Sorry I dont understand. You are saying that 0 is actually not reference. But if I play at 0 am I actually playing above or below reference?
post #1124 of 1654
Sigh...I wonder maybe I have some bad karma with Yamaha...
YPAO is driving me nuts again.
I got my 2020 on August 28th, but I didn't have time to upgrade my audio system until tonight.
It was meant to directly replace an Onkyo HT-RC370. I packed up my old Onkyo.
Attached my previous working 5.1 speaker set to the Yamaha 2020, inserted YPAO mic, and I thought I could sit back and relax and call it a day.
But no, YPAO keeps saying it can't detect my front speakers, so it refuses to move on.
Then I tried to set it up manually, and turned on my HTPC.
Apparently Windows is reporting the front center channel, subwoofer, and both surround speakers are being detected properly, but not the two front channels.
The Yamaha error guide only suggests me to check the cable, which I did. I also reattached the banana plugs and secured all wires, but still nothing changed.
I will talk to Best Buy Magnolia tomorrow and hopefully they can send someone over and if it still doesn't work, I would have no choice but to return it and get an Onkyo 828 instead.
Atleast Onkyo's Audessey implementation never gave me these headaches.
post #1125 of 1654
Make sure you've hooked up the front speakers to the front speaker terminals and not to either of the EXTRA SP terminals.

Also make sure that the power amp assign setting is set to "Basic": [On Screen] -> Setup -> Speaker -> Manual Setup -> Power Amp Assign.

If it's not either of these problems then your receiver is almost certainly defective and needs to be exchanged or replaced.
post #1126 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Sorry I dont understand. You are saying that 0 is actually not reference. But if I play at 0 am I actually playing above or below reference?

0 can't be reference if set by room correction software. It would be deafening at 105db (+10), The test tones that YPAO or audyssey play are usually -20 to -30 below reference. So 0 equates to 75-85db dependent. You can use a sound meter to confirm that. It doesn't matter much as long as all speakers are outputting the same level.
post #1127 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Sorry I dont understand. You are saying that 0 is actually not reference. But if I play at 0 am I actually playing above or below reference?

That is my point. Playing a 0 would far louder than reference level. With the levels I got calibrated out-of box from my RX-A1020 I need to set the receiver at -12dB to reproduce at reference levels. I don't know if other Yamahas use other reference levels.

(If -12dBFS and -30dB on receiver I get 75dBC SPL, then I when playing -30dBFS and want 75dBC SPL I need to crank up the volume the amount which -30dB is lower than -12dB = +18dB. -30+18 = -12dB)

Personally I find that loud. When watching movies quietly, I tend to balance on -20dB - -22dB, while when showing off the home theater I'm at -15dB or so.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sveinse View Post

Yet my YPAO calibrates it such that when I play a -12dBFS sound on -30dB it gives 75dBC and not 63dBC like it should.

I was wrong here. The -12dBFS sound should be played at 93dBC SPL when calibrated to reference levels.
post #1128 of 1654
I wouldn't necessarily assume that YPAO makes any attempt to calibrate the volume control to any sort of reference sound pressure level in the room.
post #1129 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Ridge View Post

Make sure you've hooked up the front speakers to the front speaker terminals and not to either of the EXTRA SP terminals.

Also make sure that the power amp assign setting is set to "Basic": [On Screen] -> Setup -> Speaker -> Manual Setup -> Power Amp Assign.

If it's not either of these problems then your receiver is almost certainly defective and needs to be exchanged or replaced.

Thanks, I am sure they are hooked up to the front speaker terminals and not the extras.
post #1130 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Ridge View Post

I wouldn't necessarily assume that YPAO makes any attempt to calibrate the volume control to any sort of reference sound pressure level in the room.

It does I believe. This is where you have the per speaker level setting which ranges from -10dB to +10dB. These levels compensates for variances and differences in sensitivity among the speakers and thus the calibration.
post #1131 of 1654
I agree with Ross. Obviously YPAO uses the level trims to balance the SPL for each speaker, but I think it's only a relative calibration. i.e. all speakers will produce the same level, but there's no attempt at absolute calibration so don't necessarily expect 0dB on the master volume to produce 75dB with the test tones.

Yamaha doesn't have any processing algorithms that rely on absolute calibration (e.g. nothing like Audyssey Dynamic EQ), so they had no reason to do it. I could be wrong as I haven't used the latest models, but if you have very sensitive speakers you're not going to see YPAO set all the trims to large negative values (for example). Certainly YPAO on the older models balanced the speakers without regard for the absolute level.
post #1132 of 1654
Really, really hoping you guys can help me. I just received the A3020 today to replace my Onkyo TX-NR3009 because I really like the DSP on the Yamaha. I hooked everything up, and now I'm having numerous HDMI problems. My Blu-ray player and PS3 won't even pass video through the receiver 75% of the time, my Roku throws up a green screen, and my Dish receiver keeps sending back an HDCP error message. The Dish channels will play for awhile, but then the screen will throw up a green tinted, corrupted version of the Yamaha background. Did I get a lemon? Thanks for any advice you can give.
Edited by ShakeMan - 9/13/13 at 4:20pm
post #1133 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by carageuw View Post

Sigh...I wonder maybe I have some bad karma with Yamaha...
YPAO is driving me nuts again.
I got my 2020 on August 28th, but I didn't have time to upgrade my audio system until tonight.
It was meant to directly replace an Onkyo HT-RC370. I packed up my old Onkyo.
Attached my previous working 5.1 speaker set to the Yamaha 2020, inserted YPAO mic, and I thought I could sit back and relax and call it a day.
But no, YPAO keeps saying it can't detect my front speakers, so it refuses to move on.
Then I tried to set it up manually, and turned on my HTPC.
Apparently Windows is reporting the front center channel, subwoofer, and both surround speakers are being detected properly, but not the two front channels.
The Yamaha error guide only suggests me to check the cable, which I did. I also reattached the banana plugs and secured all wires, but still nothing changed.
I will talk to Best Buy Magnolia tomorrow and hopefully they can send someone over and if it still doesn't work, I would have no choice but to return it and get an Onkyo 828 instead.
Atleast Onkyo's Audessey implementation never gave me these headaches.

BB convinced me to fork over $181, they are going to send some techs next weekend to attempt to do a "professional installation"
If it turns out to be a lemon, the techs will haul the unit back to the store and install a replacement for me when it comes.
In theory I shouldn't be charged twice or see additional charges, fingers crossed. LOL...rolleyes.gif
post #1134 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShakeMan View Post

Really, really hoping you guys can help me. I just received the A3020 today to replace my Onkyo TX-NR3009 because I really like the DSP on the Yamaha. I hooked everything up, and now I'm having numerous HDMI problems. My Blu-ray player and PS3 won't even pass video through the receiver 75% of the time, my Roku throws up a green screen, and my Dish receiver keeps sending back an HDCP error message. The Dish channels will play for awhile, but then the screen will throw up a green tinted, corrupted version of the Yamaha background. Did I get a lemon? Thanks for any advice you can give.

Usually problems like these are caused by problems with HDMI cables, in particular long cables.
post #1135 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Ridge View Post

Usually problems like these are caused by problems with HDMI cables, in particular long cables.
I switched out cables, and my longest one is 6 feet. From what I've read, HDMI is finicky with that kind of stuff, so that what was I was hoping was the problem. Still no go. But after hooking the Onkyo back up, everything is fine again. I just really wanted the Yamaha to work.
post #1136 of 1654
After reading some very helpful posts here and elsewhere, it's obvious there is an HDMI issue, whether it's from a faulty receiver itself or the cables being used. I've done an RMA on the receiver I have now, and I've ordered another A3020. I've also ordered some Monoprice Redmere HDMI cables to replace all the ones I have now. I'm just going to hope for the best. Thanks for all the advice and opinions.
post #1137 of 1654
Is there any limit in reproduction of flac files via lan/dlna?
Most of my flacs are 24/192...
post #1138 of 1654
Hi!
Just been happy owner of an Yamaha RX-A1020.

Yesterday I activated the ARC in the setup menu. So far it seemed to work. TV sound went through the amplifier.

But then I would watch a blu ray movie on my PS3. The first 2 hours of Saving Private Ryan went smoothly. Then the image disappeared and only the sound was still there.

Tested to switch the HDMI cable but it did not help. It was black on ALL inputs of the amplifier.

Restarted the amplifier. Then I had the picture but now was the sound gone insted. Went into the ARC setting again and turned off the ARC and then put it back on. Then everything went back to normal.

Now every time when start the amplifier, the sound is completely gone on all inputs (no speaker icons lit on the amplifier) and I have to go in and disable the ARC and then enable it again to get sound.

Is my brand new amplifier already broken or am I doing something wrong?

Can add that I run it with Supra HDMI cables and a Panasonic G20
50 ".




Edited by robswe - 9/15/13 at 5:39am
post #1139 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlatinumSV View Post

Hi All, I have a quick question maybe someone can answer. Am I better off not B-Amping my mains with my 3020 due to the fact that the power output goes down as more channels are being used. Meaning if I don't Bi-Amp I'm only using 5 channels compared to seven when Bi-Amped.

Thanks

According to these measurements:
http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article/yamaha-rx-a3020-av-receiver?page=0,3

You might expect around 63 W/ch with 7 channels driven vs 69 W/ch with 5 channels driven before the amp starts to clip. So adding the 6th and 7th channels will decrease the volume output of the other channels by about 0.4 dB.

If you have a true bi-amp configuration for your L and R front speakers, you'll go from about 69 W/ch with 5 channels driven to about 126W for L and R fronts with 7 channels driven, or a max volume increase of about 2.6 dB. Bi-amping is also likely to present a less complex load to you amplifier, and if so, could create some audible benefits.

You are the one who can decide whether or not you are better off with either configuration, so try both.

I personally bi-amped the front L-R and thought there was an improvement. In the course of getting to that point I configured the receiver for 6 ohm speaker loads and tested various brands of speaker wire.
post #1140 of 1654
Is the center foot structurally necessary? I have an AV cabinet with vents in the shelves. The vent grills are raised about 1/8" so the 1020 can't sit completely stable because the center foot is resting on the vent grill. My thinking was to get a thin layer of Sorbithane or something to place under the corner feet to elevate it. If the center foot is supposed to support weight, will this be a problem?
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