The "Official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A1020, RX-A2020 and RX-A3020 Thread - Page 6

My 3020 showed up yesterday and the update via network also failed with "ERROR! 2000". Fortunately, the USB recovery/update worked fine, if rather slow.

Also of note, I had actually tried the USB update first and got a "device error". The thumb drive was formatted NTFS and there were a few other files on it not related to the .bin firmware file. I reformatted the drive to FAT32 and loaded only the firmware file. Worked fine after that.

As for the receiver itself, I replaced a A3000 for the extra amps, improved amp assignment function, and I was able to get a very good price for the A3000. I use a 5-channel Sunfire with the A3020 and have a second zone. I am extremely pleased with the refinements of the 3020 so far and am looking forward to wringing it out a bit more this weekend.

Anyone have any info on the recent FW update with respect to whatever it did with YPAO? I'm curious to understand what was done with YPAO so I may know what to expect when I go back through my setup.

What kind of difference are you noticing? Could it be because the 20xx models have YPAO with reflected sound control and the 10xx don't? I am asking because I have right now a $960 RX-A2010 (last year's) and would be served as well by a $400 RX-A1010 zones-wise, but one of the main differences is the YPAO features. It seems like the YPAO with RSC is the one that maps reasonably well to the Audyssey MultiEQ XT in terms of features. That one can be had in a $400 Denon, but the Denon's amp assignment compared to Yamaha sucks, so make that a $550 solution compared to the $400 Yamaha...

Would you rate the sound difference worth doubling the price of the receiver (I know... 3 zones vs 2; 2 more amps; but I am asking about just the sound). And if you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the 2020?

Hi - I am having an issue with AirPlay on my rx-a1020 receiver and having difficulty finding any support information on the web. I have the receiver on the network and connecting fine using dhcp (Internet ration or playing audio with server input both work fine). All devices including iphone4s on ios6, new iPad on ios6, and windows notebook with iTunes are on same network in same subnet.

I find that I cannot consistently get airplay working. If I turn the receiver to AirPlay input the airplay icon will often appear briefly on any of my devices but then simply disappears. Occasionally I have gotten audio to play through AirPlay but if I let an album stop playing for any reason, AirPlay icon disappears on all devices and I cannot get it to re- appear reliably. One trick I have found that works most of the time is to change the receiver network settings to static IP, let receiver connect this way (and AirPlay icon appears, I can connect device but no audio will play at all). I then change receiver back to dhcp and sometimes, AirPlay will then work but again once album finishes, icon disappears and I can't get it back. I do not have firewall turned on either on router or notebook.

Has anyone heard of this and does anyone have any advice? I have tried adding router and device mac addresses to the receiver and this made no difference.

I would appreciate any advice. I bought this model specifically as it had airplay and other than this have loved it's quality and usability so really hoping i can get this sorted out.

Thank you in advance.

Still haven't seen an update available for the 2020. Maybe my unit has the most recent version already loaded.

Have a legacy component connected to my 1020 - get audio but no video.

Laser Disc connected to A/V 2 as coax for audio and s-VHS for video.

Thought the s-VHS video would be upconverted and then sent back to the TV via my HDMI out.

Must I also have an s-VHS out back to the TV, if so what is the benefit?

I would try this but am out of s-VHS cables.

Looked in the PDF but don't see any other settings that affect this.


TIA

Hi there,

Can somebody please help me ...

I have a Yamaha AVENTAGE 2010 receiver and I'm wondering if this is possible ?

I want to be able to use different **speaker levels** for different inputs

e.g. when I choose AV-input1 ... I want the center speaker to have the volume as -2.5 ( which is the av-input for my XBMC )
but for my Av-input2 I want the center speaker volume to be +3 ( which is the av-input for my DreamBox, used for football ... e.g. Sky Sports )

Is this possible ?

If this is possible ... please describe how I can set the different level of the center-speaker for the different inputs ...
I don't want to go to the manual-setup each time and tune the center-speaker manually !?

Kind regards,

It should work. Make sure you don't have anything connected to the other AV2 video inputs, HDMI, component or composite. You can try turning on video video processing ([On Screen] -> Setup -> Video -> Processing). You can also check the video signal information screen while you've got the LaserDisc player on and AV2 selected ([On Screen] -> Information -> Video Signal).

Hey, just got my 3020 today and am having trouble figuring out if something I am looking to do is possible. I would like to use the optical audio output to send signal to my wireless headphone setup. I have 3 hdmi and one component/rca audio input. I've been going through the manual and can't figure out if I can get the audio out over this output simultaneously.

I'll be able to validate for you in a couple days, but I'm fairly confident the answer is no. Page 46 on my manual says that "The AV OUT jacks cannot output video/audio signals input through the HDMI or COMPONENT VIDEO jacks" in the notes, so I'm confident you'll have to run optical from the HDMI devices to inputs as well to get an optical out. I've had to do this from my DVD players in order to record to Minidisc recently, optical signal is not created by the AVR from HDMI.

Yamaha receivers don't translate between digital and analog audio internally for any reason, if we've wanted analog outputs we'd always have to run them in. So your Component/analog RCA pair is mostly likely only going to come out of your analog outputs.

I believe the latest is 1.41 if memory serves me correctly. You can see the version level in Options/Information

Ross Ridge

My problem turned out to be a faulty S-VHS cable, replaced it and everything worked.

Just an FYI also connected a Blu-Ray player to the same input A/V2 and both the Blu-Ray and the Laser Disc components work off the same A/V2 input.

Rcvr recognizes input based on which is turned on.

Ok, I can run optical from all of the sources I am looking to use, that isn't much of a problem, but will it output those optical sources simultaneously while I am using an HDMI/Component source for the video? Can I configure it so HDMI1 and Optical 1 are always on simultaneously. HDMI2 and Optical 2 simultaneous etc.?


:edit: Other question. Does the HDMI out to my TV send audio as well, even though I am listening to it via receiver speakers? If that is the case I am probably better off using the 1 Optical Out on my tv to send audio to my wireless headphone receiver.

The RX-A3020 is actually the one exception to this to rule. It can convert HDMI and SPDIF optical/coaxial digital to analog and output it through its zone 2 pre-out (or speaker terminals).

However it can't convert HDMI digital audio or analogue audio to SPDIF optical digital audio.

Yes. If you have, for example, your Blu-Ray player connected to both the AV1 HDMI jack and the AV1 coaxial digital jack (and this jack is assigned to AV1), then when you select AV1 you'll hear HDMI audio over the speakers, and the audio from the AV1 coaxial jack will be output through the AV OUT optical jack.

However, while your receiver can do this simulataneously, your Blu-Ray player (or other device) may not. You may have to choose whether it outputs HDMI or coaxial/optical audio.

The receiver can send HDMI audio to the TV through HDMI, but this will limit you to simple 2.0 stereo becaiuse that's the lowest common denominator between the TV and the receiver. Also, your TV may not be capable of passing HDMI audio through its audio output jacks.

Sure, just the next time the S-Video input on your reciever doesn't appear to work, make sure you've got your Blu-Ray player turned off.

The RX-A1020 has a lot of inputs so you should be able to connect both the Blu-Ray and LaserDisc players to different inputs. This can save you some confusion down the road. The coaxial, optical and component inputs are all reassignable so let their default assignments limit you.

Good to know! The two sources I really care about at all are my HTPC and Xbox 360. I'm pretty sure the 360 will send audio via both hdmi and optical. The PC I will have the change the "Default Device" in Windows 7 to switch over to optical or back to hdmi I would imagine. I don't get why Windows 7 can't have audio out to multiple sources.

Some newer TVs, my Sony 55" XBR, is capable of receiving Dolby Digital 5.1 over the HDMI input and then putting out 5.1 on optical. It won't touch DTS or other formats though. YMMV, I don't know how common that is, I came from a XBR970 tube which didn't do anything of the sort. The TV does advertise over HDMI as supporting DD. It won't even support MPCM at 5.1, strictly DD, probably for compatibility with some of their sound bars or something.

In fact, that's what allows me to run my game systems directly to the TV -- HDMI from a PS3, Xbox360, and a Japanese Xbox360 directly to the TV through an automatic switchbox on an HDMI input in game mode for no delays in gaming. The PS3 gets its optical to a receiver audio input dedicated to PS3, the two 360s are set to Dolby Digital and then my TV sends that DD out the optical to the Receiver on a 'TV Output' labeled audio input. The 360s strictly put out DD5.1 so that's OK for them, some of the PS3 games are DTS or MPCM 5.1, so I can't pull that audio from the TV.

The Oppo BDP-93 definitely can do simultaneous outputs, and I have used my Yamaha receiver this way -- HDMI, Optical, and analog simultaneously -- HDMI for general movie watching, Optical for dubbing to Minidisc, and analog for supporting a zone on analog outputs. Not that I wanted to, I've just always had to if I wanted the flexibility.

I wish I had looked at this thread earlier today, my A3020 was out of the box (did the firmware update and inspected it) but I'm not tearing down the theater area until this weekend, so it went back in the box before I tested what you described. The conversion from digital 2 channel audio to analog is interesting to me and I want to test different scenarios. My Zone 2 will be HDMI video and powered speakers off one of the speaker outputs, and I pretty much abandoned any thoughts of anything else but maybe I will play with the possibility of a Zone3 over analog preamp outputs. Will have to see what it does with various types of signals that the Blu-Ray player puts out.

Hi everyone, I am new around here so please forgive me if this is the wrong thread for this post.

A couple of months ago I purchased 2 RX-A820's and had them up and running and was pretty happy. The HDMI Controls were working really well where I could use the cable remote to control power and volume on the 820's then about a week ago I upgraded one of the units to the newer Firmware 1.64 adding Pandora and SiriusXM functionality which was great. The Firmware upgrade went without a hitch but then I noticed that I no longer have HDMI control functionality??? I tried everything, made sure all the HDMI Control's are turned on for all the devices, I powered them down, I unplugged the units to clear any memory....etc. But I still cannot get HDMI control to work again?

Does anybody have any suggestions or experience with the same problem? I want to upgrade my second 820 into the newer firmware so that I can get SiriusXM but if this upgrade is going to kill my HDMI control again, I hesitate.

I have emailed Yamaha support but have not received any reply yet. Any help would greatly appreciated.

I am considering the A2020, which seems a very good amp. But do I understand correctly that on the A2020 if you bi-amp the front speakers there is no way to have a zone 2? See page 26 of the manual. Older and cheaper Yamaha receivers such as the RX-V863 allowed to toggle between zones A-B with zone A bi-amped. I do not get why this much better and recent model does not allow that. Then there is the eternal question if anyone hears a difference with and without bi-amping on the 2020... Thanks for any input.
Edited by tritur - 11/7/12 at 6:09am

It is true, You are unable to bi-amp and have a second zone, it forces you to use the remaining amps for surround back speakers, which is what I ended up doing... So far they are kinda cool but I don't get too much out of them during xbox360 games. I have extended surround set to prologic 2x movie but it is still a minimal effect. Anyone with 7.1 experience have a suggestion for surround modes? Back to the Bi-amping. Yes, I did notice a difference in clarity with my Paradigm Monitor 7's when I bi-amped.

I need some input from those of you that own the RX-A1020. I have an issue with my current Sony STR-DA3600ES which is annoying. Every once in a while, I get a sound drop out with a random blu ray disc. I have a Sony BDP-S790 paired with the receiver using a Panasonic GT30 50 inch plamsa tv. Everything is connected with good quality HDMI cables. It doesn't really matter what title I throw in, but it does it it during random parts of a blu ray disc. It never does this with DVDs. Usually within the first 20 minutes is when the sound cuts off and it does it only ONCE. If the movie passes the 20 minute mark, that's an indication that the rest of the movie will play fine and I will NOT get any audio drop outs after this. I know this sounds weird, but it's true. Yes, I've switched out the HDMI cables with expensive ones, cheap ones and everything in between. Yes, I've swapped the blu ray player for an older S780. Audio drop outs still occur. Look at the Official Sony str-da3600es thread. A couple of guys complained of the same problem with their ES receiver, so I'm not alone. Make a long story short. I want a good receiver that is equivlent or better than the Sony ES receiver i got now. I really don't want anything to do with Sony receivers anymore, on the other hand, I've never had any issues with their blu ray players. The RX-A1020 is at the top of my list, but I need to know if any of you have experienced audio drop outs with this receiver. Would you say it's of better quality than the ES receivers from Sony?

Hi all! Heavily considering an A1020 or A2020 but had some questions:

First, my needs are kind of specific: I want a receiver with tons of HDMI inputs with ample analog (composite/s-video/component) ins to boot. Seems to me like Yamaha is one of the only companies out there still supporting legacy connections, at least on their high-end models. I plan to do a good deal of classic gaming on my setup, so the ability to hook up things like an SNES, N64, Saturn, etc, in their highest quality is important to me. Piggybacking on that, how important is the HQV Vida for image processing? I have no plans (nor space) to support anything over 5.1, so not sure if the $500 price bump is worth it. I'm extremely open to other receiver options / suggestions too, provided anyone has any! I'm feeling a little out of my gourd here, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

For your gaming needs, you should seriously consider a DVDO Edge or Duo.

Are there any receivers that incorporate those chips and feature the legacy connectors I'm looking for? Does the HQV Vida not match up with them? Willing to explore separates, absolutely, but not well-versed in what that will take.

I think Yamaha is the only company whose current North American models include S-Video inputs.

I don't how much of an improvement the HQV Vida chip would make for standard definition console gaming, but I don't like quality of the analogue to HDMI conversion that my HQV-less Yamaha receiver does. I just have it convert all my analogue video to component and use the component input of my TV when I want to play SD games.

One to thing to watch out for regardless of what sort of solution you end up getting is that modern equipment frequently isn't compatible old video game consoles. I wouldn't suggest buying any equipment you can't easily return if necessary. I suspect Yamaha receivers are better than others in this respect, but the oldest console I own is an original PlayStation. It works fine with my receiver and it's supposed to be an old enough console to have problems, but it's not as old any of the consoles you mentioned.

It certainly seems that way re: s-video. I'd like to use it, but my TV (PRO-101FD) doesn't have an input, so I'd need to do the same thing you are. If the Vida is an improvement I'd consider it worth the modest price-bump, but if it's negligible then I'd just go with the lower-end model.

I definitely agree regarding the modern components with my dinosaur-era gaming habit, which is why I'm not wedded to the Yamaha part. I just don't really know where to turn and am open to anything! I'd love some sort of all-in-one component that met all my needs, but my needs are pretty specific and it just simply might not exist.

OK... my 2020 updated to 1.41 tonight without incident.

I'd also note I have not had any more sync issues since replacing some problem HDMI cables.

I was just talking to someone today who said his NES worked with his Denon AV receiver, but I'm not sure what model it was. Last year's models (AVR-xx12) still have S-Video connectors, and are still available in some stores so that maybe something else to consider.

New member..

I purchased a A2020 this past Thursday and am just really getting it configured...One of the things I have noticed is at high volume the receiver is shutting gown. This is happening at about -15 during movie playback. I purchased monitor audio silver series 8 front speakers and the monitor audio center speaker. The front speakers are 4 ohm and the center is 6 ohm. I have the 2020 set to 6 ohm.

Two questions; 1) Is anyone else having this problem? 2) The A3020 is not rated much higher in WPS, do you think if I moved to the A3020 I would avoid this problem?
I assume this problem is power related and the A2020 is having problems handling the 4ohm speakers.

Thoughts/Ideas/Suggestions???