The "Official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A1020, RX-A2020 and RX-A3020 Thread - Page 12

There should be a Contact Us link on the support section of the website, with email and telephone number (but that might vary from country to country). I would ask Oppo if they are actively pressing Yamaha for a fix, since they seem to know the technical reason why it's not working.

HDMI as a standard fails in many ways, but unfortunately we have to live with it and sometimes find our own workarounds. By using a programmable remote instead of relying on CEC you're no longer dependant on multiple manufacturers all getting it right. Even if you find a brand of receiver where CEC works for you, things might break if you change any other device (or even if you just update the firmware on any device).

One would think so. But sadly it is not so. (There is not even a link to the web master...)
I did. And they aren't. It seems that the Oppo guys don't have any direct contacts with the Yamaha engineers. Although they would very much appreciate it if anyone could make an introduction...

Assuming you're in the US: http://usa.yamaha.com/support/contact/audio_visual/

Hope someone can help me...

I just hooked up my RX-A2010 and so far so good. But.... I am unable to get sound from my sub??? I've had an old school Yamaha for years that I just replaced with this and the sub was plug and play. But on this 2010, I've tried both sub inputs with no luck.
Your help is greatly appreciated...


BigMarcus ~ EVO 4G LTE

Need more info. How did you set it up? What are you playing to test the sub? What if you force the sub to turn on rather than rely on the auto-on?

Make sure a subwoofer is specified in the configuration menu, make sure your speakers are all set as SMALL (or the sub won't be used for 2 channel sources).

Many thanks. But I am not ... (in the US) ...

Actually I am in Switzerland, where Yamaha seems not have its own operation, but rather has a national distributor (apparently in Liechtensein too). And therefore they seem to be warding off all kinds of direct contact from customers. And the national distributor's web site is also not exactly helpful either...

You might try asking on avforums.com (without the 's'), an unrelated web forum that gets more traffic from European users.

I definitely have the sub "on" in setup. My front and center are large. I also tried the "extra bass" and nothing.
This sub, like most, has it's own amp but when you power it on, it's on.
I've tested DirecTV, (dolby digital) also 5.1 movies from my external drive. I hadn't hooked yo my blu ray player yet as I'm remodeling my HT setup.
Again, my old school RX V1600 rocks like a champ! Here I am think I've upgraded.. #not



BigMarcus ~ EVO 4G LTE

Set it up manually, which I'm pretty competent with electronics in general.


BigMarcus ~ EVO 4G LTE

Many powered subwoofers have a feature where they turn on and off automatically depending on whether or not they're receiving audio. If your does then try disabling in and force it to be always on.

Set your front and center speakers to small, like kriktsemaj99 suggested, otherwise your subwoofer will go largely unused in many recordings.

Make sure that you've connected your sub to the subwoofer output on the receiver, not the sub input like you said in your original post.

Turn up the volume if you want your receiver to sound louder. The volume numbers on the display are not comparible between receivers.

Thanks for these helpful tips that I will surely try!
Will post up results...


BigMarcus ~ EVO 4G LTE

Hello,

Yes I am using Adaptive DRC . No the Adaptive DSP. But I find it does not work, I had no such issues with my RXV1800.


Thanks,

I can't think of any reason why the 3020 would behave differently than the RX-V1800. The 1800 does not have a volume levelling function either.

I also had an RX-V1800 and now have a 3010. What I remember the 1800 having is the option to adjust the level of compression. The options if I recall are:

Low
High
Auto

I'm wondering if that's the difference you witnessed with the 1800 as I don't see any selectable options on my 3010, which I'm guessing would be the same as the 3020. In which case, based on the ADRC description in the manual on my 3010, the net effect would be the equivalent of the "Auto" ADRC option of the 1800, which is a relative setting based on where you have the master volume set to. Thus, if I'm understanding correctly how "Auto" works, the DRC effect becomes less (i.e., more dynamic range) as you increase the volume. On the other hand, the "High" option is an absolute setting regardless of volume, which I remember on my 1800 was much more effective at limiting dynamic range at higher volume levels than the Auto setting. So if you were using "High" on the 1800, that might be the difference you're hearing with the 3020 which is technically using "Auto" only.

Ok.... Success... Sort of.

I actually just received my new sub which is powered as well. I went into the setup menu and indeed changed my other speakers to small.
Another thing that is a huge difference is that the new sub has a single RCA input whereas my old sub has two: red and white.
What is the best method to increase volume on the sub:
The sub volume controls?
Or the receiver level increase?

But I am still concerned about the overall punch this receiver is lacking until I turn it waaaaay higher than my previous Rx v1600???
Anyone know why this is the case?
I also noticed it's set to PCM. Should this be changed if so how do I?

Thanks again!


BigMarcus ~ EVO 4G LTE

Like I said before you can't compare the volume control numbers on the display. They don't reflect the "punch" of the receiver, they're just arbitrary numbers. You'll have to get used to setting the volume control to a differnt postion for your prefered listening level.

This indicates that the source is sending audio in the PCM format. It doesn't normally indicate a problem. Either the source material is PCM or the source device is doing decoding. You can usually configure your source device to bitstream the audio to receiver rather than decode itself, but this rarely makes a difference in sound quality.

The sub with two inputs might have worked better if you used a Y-splitter to connect the receiver sub output to both sub inputs. But since you have a new sub I guess this doesn't matter.

For the sub volume, I would initially adjust the control on the sub until the bass sounds about right with the receiver sub level at 0.0 dB. Then you'll be able to do any fine tuning (up or down) with the receiver sub level alone.

Does anyone know the answer to this video processing question relative to the 1020 vs the 2020? My question is how conventional 2K video processing is upscaled to 4K in both receivers. Crutchfield says, after speaking with their video expert, that the higher end video processor in the 2020 is not used for this task and the upscaling of 2K to 4K is the same in both receivers. They claim the better chip of the 2020 is used for 480>2K upscaling.

Yamaha actually didn't seem to know the answer to this, giving me a cryptic answer "each receiver has a different video processor and it's handled differently in every one". That just doesn't seem accurate.

I actually don't need the additional power of the 2020 and if the 2K>4K processing has nothing to do with the higher end video chip in the 2020, then I can simply go for the 1020. Truth be told, if I get a 4K display, my gut says I'd probably use the upscaling in the display anyway and simply set the Yamaha to 4K pass-through. I also don't anticipate using any 480p content.

Thanks for the suggestions and assistance. It is very appreciated and what makes AVS such an awesome place!
Out of curiosity, what volume level would some of you say your receiver is at a loud but enjoyable level?


BigMarcus ~ EVO 4G LTE

Oh... So should I look to upgrade firmware like immediately or if it ain't broke...?
Is the download down via wireless network or USB?


BigMarcus ~ EVO 4G LTE

i have what i think is an HDMI handshake issue. i have a yamaha rx-a1020. firmware 1.1

my panasonic bluray player when hooked directly to my LG projector works great. but when i run the hdmi through my yamaha i don't get any picture. not even the yamaha background screen.

my movie computer (hdmi), my wii (component), both work fine.

if i plug a tv into the second HDMI output and turn on both the tv and projector the picture magically works on both.

any ideas?

Plus, I see another CSA Group Certification Record (link) that includes the text "AV Receiver, models RX-V675, . . . RX-A730, RX-V775, HTR-7066 and RX-A830" . . . which further suggests that the AVENTAGE model numbering sequences for Yamaha's 2013-2014 AVRs will be RX-Ax30 (also as expected.)
_

I think the HQV Vida (at least the VHD1900 referenced here) tops out at 1080p. It would be used for de-interlacing and scaling lower resolutions to 1080p, but the final step of 1080p to 4K would have to be done by Yamaha's own chip (FPGA).

Also note that there are quite a few other ways in which the 2020 is better than the 1020, it's not just a power difference. e.g. more than 7 channels, 2 DSPs so it has sub EQ and no limitations on decoding bitstreams and processing at the same time. Independant crossover frequency for each speaker instead of just a global one.

This could actually be true. I don't think they upgraded to a new HQV Vida chip this year, so unless it already supports 4K resolutions they would've had to fall back on their custom FPGA based video processor. FPGA stands for "field-programmable gate array" which means the chip is fully programable and so each chip could have different a program depending on model and firmware revision. That said, I believe the same poor quality video scaling is used in the FPGA program for all models of Yamaha receivers.

I wouldn't buy any receiver based on its 4K capabilities today, unless you're also planning to get a 4K display to go with it at the same time. It's too new technology with too many potential incompatibilties that wouldn't show up until 4K TVs actually became reasonably common. Like you said, you'll probably be using your TV's scaler anyways.

Try lowering the resolution and/or disabling Deep Colour on your Blu-Ray player. It maybe that your gone over the bandwith limitations of your cabling (or maybe your projector) and connecting the TV would automatically lower it if it has lower capabilities.

It's also possible the either the receiver isn't detecting that presence of your projector or isn't able to get its EDID information (a description of the displays capabilities). Try using the cable you used to connect the TV to the receiver to connect the projector to the receiver.

Good info and thanks Ross & Kriktsemaj99.

I am seriously considering one of the new 4K displays in the not too distant future. So for me, the more important aspect of the video end of the receiver, is the simple ability to have 4K pass-through, which not all receivers do.

I consider holding off on getting a new receiver then. You don't want to find out that by the time 4K TV are affordable, say under $5000, that you need a receiver with HDMI 2.0 support for it to work properly.

Ross, I thought the current 4K displays (or those scheduled for imminent release like the Sonys), can utilize HDMI 1.4a for 4K?

Sure, the current $25,000 85" models support 3840×2160 24p with HDMI 1.4 equipment that support 4K resolutions. But future equipment might need 60p or something else that requires HDMI 2.0. Or maybe they'll require DisplayPort or something else entirely if it turns out that HDMI isn't up to the task. A lot people's problems here seem to be related to their equipment and/or cables not being able to handle 1080p video, especially over longer distances.

When 3D TVs first came out there was no support in HDMI for 3D, so they had to work without it. These days a lot of 3D devices require 3D HDMI support, and so aren't compatible with these older TVs.

There is no "Auto Leveling program" that is on by default is there?
Should I be looking to upgrade my firmware immediately?


BigMarcus ~ EVO 4G LTE