The "Official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A1020, RX-A2020 and RX-A3020 Thread - Page 15

Yamaha doesn't need PL II z,
Yamaha invented the presence/height channels,
Why pay a licensing fee for a technology that you do better anyways???

I read that some people are interested in comparative reviews between the Yamaha-3020, Denon 4520, and so on.

If you understand German there is a very comprehensive comparison between Pioneer SC-LX86, Onkyo TX-NR 5010 und dem Denon AVR-4520.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEnkJhDvmxg
The Yamaha is unfortunately not included here.


There are some more reviews in German below. If you need you can use Google translate to get a good indication of what is being said.
The Yamaha RX-A 3020 is reviewed here: http://www.areadvd.de/hardware/2012/yamaha_rx_a3020.shtml
And the Pioneer SC-LX86 here: http://www.areadvd.de/hardware/2012/pioneer_sc_lx86.shtml
Onkyo 5010 here: http://www.areadvd.de/hardware/2012/onkyo_tx_nr5010_test.shtml
The Onkyo Article also discusses the competition to the 5010 from the 3020 and LX86.

Going back to English:
What Hi-Fi have also reviewed the Yamaha 3020 http://www.whathifi.com/review/rx-a3020
As well as the LX-86: http://www.whathifi.com/review/pioneer-sc-lx86 <-- They think that the LX-86 is the best buy although they warn that it sounds "bright" and needs careful pairing with speakers.
Sound and Vision Mag writes this about the 3020: http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article/yamaha-rx-a3020-av-receiver

Here is a French test of the 3020: http://www.audiovideohd.fr/tests/332-Yamaha-RX-A3020-0.html

Billmich ... Exactly. That's what I am looking for ... Someone who has used these height features Yamaha invented and can give me their impressions and or opinions.

Can anyone confirm if these receivers have a "Night Mode" like my old RX-V1600??? Really is useful as it turns down the bass and punch of films when my fams is asleep.

~ Big Marcus

They don't have that exact feature any more, but "Adaptive DRC" is something new that should do what you want (it reduces the dynamic range more as you turn down the volume).

That's presumably Yamaha's thinking too, but when I replace my current receiver I'd like access to all the latest Dolby and DTS technologies so I can compare them for myself. There are more and more of them that Yamaha decided not to license (Dolby PLIIz, Dolby Volume, DTS Neo:X for example).

well that's good to know

i loved Night Mode as well

Hello to all on the forum

I have been using the RX-A2020 and am so far fairly pleased with the unit with one minor exception and was curious if anyone else was experiencing the supposed bug that I am. FYI My additional gear is a mitsubishi DLP WD-73837, PS3, and a mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D convertor box.

The units video processing seems to only engage at random, I do belive the problem is with the unit and not any of my other devices based on hooking up other rcievers as a double check. Anyone else experience this same issue or amy know of a simple fix to correct it? At first I thought it may have something to do with HDMI CEC control but it is turned off, and is turned off on my other devices as well. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

In respone to a previous post regarding video direct & procssing for different inputs you could also use the video adjustment presets under the options menu as that serting is input specific.

Not sure exactly what you mean. What are you seeing that makes you think the processing only engages at random?

you can see a visual difference in the contrast / brightness etc. etc. settings when the hdmi kicks in from turning the unit on or switching hdmi inputs. It is not however anything to do with screen resolution or upconverting, that has remained constant.

Are you sure it's not just that the video settings are remembered per input, so switching inputs can select different settings?

Adaptive DRC is okay, but i actually created a nighttime and daytime Scene setting with customized speaker levels (pattern 1 and pattern 2), sub off at night, among other adjusts. I really like it and all manageble via the webgui. Works great for me.

Interesting....


BigMarcus ~ EVO 4G LTE

thanks for the reply, it is not an issue of switching the inputs, as i can turn the unit on and off or the tv on or off and get a different looking picture.

I also have the a3020 and the oppo 103 and I'm having the same issue. It's pretty frustrating.

Dts neo X is again a height/wide channel situation, and Yamaha has pretty much done that on their own

Just a quick update: I have been in contact with both Oppo and Yamaha tech support guys, and they are both very polite and helpful. The Yamaha guy sent a modified firmware release for me to test out, hoping that it would solve the issue. However, unfortunataly the new firmware did not solve the problem. I have sent extensive feedback both to Yamaha and to Oppo concerning my tests results with the new firmware, but I have not yet received any further response from them...

My test results are as follows. (As others have said, the interim fix is to set the Oppo to output LPCM (or Auto) rather than to output Bitstream).

Setup

• Player is the Oppo BDP-103EU, firmware 1220, HDMI 1 Out to Receiver BD HDMI In
• Receiver is the Yamaha RX-A820, test firmware, HDMI 1 Out to TV HDMI 1 In (ARC)
• TV is the Sony KDL-46HX855
• Sources are the test audio tracks, and sample audio-plus-movie tracks, on the AIX sampler disk.

Test Case #1: Player audio output mode: Bitstream

1.1 When playing the test audio tracks only: => Receiver audio decoder switches to correct format for all source formats (Dolby HD, DTS, Dolby SD, LPCM), channel depths, and sample rates.
1.2 In case 1.1, on selecting a compressed audio track: => Receiver decoder switches to correct format, after delay of about 2..3 seconds.
1.3 In case 1.1, on selecting an HD audio track: => Receiver decoder switches to correct format, immediately.
1.4 Sometimes, when switching from a test audio track to a sample audio-plus-movie track (on the same disk): => Receiver decoder switches to “off”.
1.5 In case 1.4, use the receiver’s remote to toggle it to another input channel and back again: => Receiver decoder switches to correct format.

Test Case #2: Player audio output mode: PCM

2.1 As for case 1.1 => Receiver decoder switches to correct format for all source formats (LPCM!!), channel depths and sample rates.
2.2 As for case 1.2 => Receiver decoder switches to correct format, immediately.
2.3 As for case 1.3 => Receiver decoder switches to correct format, immediately.
2.4 As for case 1.4 => Receiver decoder switches to correct format.
2.5 As for case 1.5 => Not applicable. No problem.

Test Case #3: Player audio output mode: Auto

3.0 All cases: In the Auto mode, the player apparently selects PCM mode; so all test results are exactly the same as for cases 2.1 thru 2.5 above.

Conclusions

• Tests 1.1 thru 1.3 => when only the source audio format changes, the Receiver can always detect the proper audio format.
• Test 1.4 => when both the source audio & video formats change at the same time, the Receiver (sometimes) cannot detect the audio format.
• Test 1.5 => when the Receiver input channel is changed, it can detect the audio (and video) format.
• Test 3.0 => Receiver may not be not sending its EDID codes; or the Player is not seeing them.

Question.. Just setting up my 2020 today. When I run through YPAO I know that it says to turn the sub crossover all the way up or off.. But is there a way to see what it set the crossover point to or do I neefd to go back and manually set the sub crossover point back? Oh and I cannot bypass my subs crossover. Just seems like to high of stuff is being sent to it.
Edited by gsamples - 2/24/13 at 6:54pm

Hi All,

My question is regarding streaming Apple Lossles files through media server.

I am using a RXA1020 to play the audio files stored on my PC through a media server. The media server, I am using is a Plex Media server. My audio files are stored in the PC in either FLAC or M4A (Apple Lossless). However, when I try to play the files, only the FLAC is playable. The Apple Lossless files are shown, but they are grayed out. These files are playable on ITunes (through Airplay), which unfortunately does not play FLAC. I was interested in a solution which could do both FLAC and Apple Lossless. Has anybody had any success streaming Apple Lossles through a media server. I wished to know if the problem is with the Plex media server, or the RXA1020 is not able to decode M4A. I read somewhere that the RXA3020 is able to do so. Thank.

Yamaha's presence channels can't be compared to Neo:X

Hi everyone

I have this great offer to purchase a pair of KEF 203/2. I am currently using a Morel 5.1 SoundSpot MT2 on a Yamaha RX 673.
My little Yamaha is WAY too small for the KEF's and I'm considering getting a new AV amp.
I know that a dedicated stereo amp will do a better job with the KEF's but all in good time

Will the Yamaha RX A3020 be good enough to drive the KEF's? Or will it be an utter disappointment?
Can my Morel 5.1 coexist with the KEF's?
I would use the KEF's as the front speakers and the extra Morel satellites as front presence speakers

Hope there is someone out there that can provide me with some advise

Thank you very much

Regards from Singapore

Marcus

The KEF 203/2 is a relatively efficient speaker, rated at Sensitivity (2.83V/1m) 89dB. The A3020 should not have any trouble driving these, even with their slight impedance dips. If you decide you want more power, you can always tap into the pre-outs and hook up an external amp. But, unless you have a very large room, or listen at very high levels, you should be fine.

As far as integrating the Morels, that might be a little tougher. The satellites, while quite decent in their designed operating range, really only play down to 140 Hz or so [-3db at 160 Hz]. If you plan on using them for surrounds and/or front presence, they're probably ok. You'll have to play with the sub crossover, and see what's best in your room.

I'd start shopping for a good center speaker that can timbre match the KEFs. If the budget is tight after buying the A3020 and the KEF 203/2s, KEF makes a center in their Q series, the Q600C, that should be a fairly decent match with it's similar sized drivers and similar coaxial design; it should tide you over. I've not heard the 203/2s, but I have heard the Q900 matched up with the Q600C and some Q300s in a well set up room, and the sound was quite impressive. The center Q600C had particularly good dispersion, almost no sweet spot. I've read very good things regarding the 203/2 model, so they should be even better. At $10,000 / pair retail, they better be!

If your RX-V673 is way to small, then a RX-A3020 or any other AV receiver won't be much better. The 150W RX-A3020 offers only about 2dB more power than the 90W RX-V673. You'll need to get an external amplifer if you want more than a barely noticible increase in volume.

In reality your RX-V673 should be just fine for your new speakers. You'd only need something bigger for unusally large rooms.

Just purchased the RX-A 3020BL for myself, can't wait to drive my old Def tech. BP2000's I love the Yamaha sound..and features.. Just like old DSP 3090

Does anyone know how to change the rear USB port to turn on and off with the AVR? Right now it is on all of the time. Either that or a way to change the 3.5mm "trigger" into a female USB. I found an adapter plug, but I am nut sure what kind of power (amps) the "trigger" supplies. Is it enough to run a small fan? I have a USB powered fan behind my AVR drawing cool air from behind the entertainment center blowing over the AVR. Right now I am using the front USB jack, but would prefer to use something in the rear.

The trigger output should be 12V and 100mA, although the manuals don't always include the specs. You can find 0.1A fans, but they are usually fairly small. And I'm not sure if it's a good idea to run a fan off the trigger output (the startup current of the fan could be quite a bit more than its rating for continuous operation).
Edited by kriktsemaj99 - 2/26/13 at 8:22am

Agreed, I doubt I would want to take the chance. I am trying to find something like a power strip with a "trigger turn on" feature that is cost effective. I found a Craftsman power switch ($20), but it will not turn on until it sees a certain load, which my A820 does not draw until the volume is turned up a bit. So that plan is scrapped.

They make auto-sensing "smart" power strips that are meant to be used with consumer electronics. I'm guessing that one of those wouldn't require as much current to activate as something with a brand name used to sell power tools.

I don't know if it is the same in the US but in the country where I live, I was able to buy an empty "wall-wart" box with a mains socket on one side and a mains plug on the other (see photo). And inside the box I stuck in a small relay having a 12V DC coil and a mains voltage switched contact. So basically I had to buy three parts: the wall-wart, the relay, and the 3.5mm jack socket.

hello,
just got my 3020 and going through a quick set up. just curious i was thinking of running an external amp for my fronts and center but dont see an option for that in the amp configuration, does anyone know if there is a way to individually select amp assignment? secondly i have been playing around with the input names and assignments, is there a way to eliminate/ turn off all the extra sources that arent being used, i.e. av 5, av6 etc.? thanks in advance for any help