Time to buy some tools, I think

Don't need much a miter saw, or you can use a saws all. framing hammer and nales and a circular saw to cut the plywood. If you plan to carpet it you will need a stapler and carpet tape and a razer. I would avoid Harbor freight like the plage for the power tools, the hammer and knives it is a good resource. Goto the local home store and see what they recomend that is cheap. Last inexpensive miter saw I bought was a dewalt and it is still going but there mighet be something cheaper.

You could probably do without the miter saw and get by with just a circular saw to cut both your framing members and plywood. If you aren't real handy with a hammer (like me), use a drill with a screw bit to secure everything with deck screws. I don't have a router, so I also used the circular saw to chamfer the front lip of the plywood (where your carpet will wrap).

Or use this as the perfect excuse *to* buy some tools like a mitre saw! It's why I've got a Sawzall now!

And yes, use screws - easier for us non-trade-skilled guys and also avoids potential squeeks...

if doing mouldings- get a mitre saw- get dual bevel compound if you ever think you will do crown. I bought a hitachi 12" refurb for 199.
Table saw- picked up a lowes turkey day special for $69- it wont last a lifetime but it got the job done and still works.
Jig saw- picked up a display model <$100 after discount.
Circle saw
Framing Nailer craigslist $100 with 1000 nails.
FInish Nailer
Staple Gun

I do own a few harbor freight tools- some are very good and others are crap! I'd stay away from their electric tools.
HF Air tools I dont have a problem with them- have owned a few for a # of years, no issues.

Please don't buy cheap tools. You can buy a $30 dollar saw at walmart or HD that might get you through the project. If it breaks you can waste a couple of hours exchanging it in the hopes that #2 will get your project done. A $50 saw most likely won't break. But it'll be hard to adjust. It will be noisy. It will have a cheap cord. It might last a few years. A $90 saw will last for the rest of your life.

I have all the tools and the best tool for cutting plywood for the decking is the guy in the orange apron at home depot. When working at client sites I plan how the stage and riser are going to be covered and get the guy at HD to rip and cut the plywood/OSB on the panel saw for an exact fit. It is a real time and finger saver. I then bring it in from my pickup and install. If you are making a 7 ft deep riser buy 8ft framing lumber and have them cut a foot + 3inches off each board. Slap a board on the front and back (also cut at HD) and you are done. I usually cut my own framing lumber because I can do it quicker but there is no reason if you have the time, first cut is usually free. Being your own tape and a marker. Measure each piece as it is cut and if he screws up don't buy it.

Word of caution, if you have to go on the weekend go early on Sunday morning. Never go 6-9 am on a weekday.

There's some awesome tips in this thread!

I'll add that if you will be driving a lot of screws then an impact driver may be a better option than a power drill. I'll never regret purchasing mine as it makes putting in 3" deck screws a breeze.

Home depot is selling a Rigid 18v drill and impact driver set for $179, I always use star drive deck screws and the impact driver. So easy you will laugh the first time you try it.

Stage and riser to go, three carts. The sand was delivered separately.



it fits



click Bacon Race in my signature for the final product.

Big, isn't that the stage kit where they even provided pre-bent plywood?

Not in this country, they're always out by ~2-3mm at Bunnings (the equivalent shop in Oz)

I'm a beleiver in buying the best tools you can afford, assuming you're going to use them again. I like Festool, but if not Makita who make a great track saw, as good drop saws (the Japanese made line) and really good cordless gear (batteries are nearly as good as Panasonic (who make the best) but fit into a lot more tools)

Bosch make the best Jigsaw on the marke (they invented it)

Cheap tools can be dangerous (under powered, less torque) are often less accurate and difficult to maintain accuracy once calibrated.

Get yourself a good impact driver and cordless drill - you'll not beleive how you got through life without them once you own them

IMHO if you're not going to use them again for other jobs, then I'd hire a contractor and forget about it.

Oh one other thing - nail guns are dangerous, I've never used a cheap one but I'd google around for ones that might jam easily

As we used to say in Minnesota, ya-betcha

You wouldn't believe that I actually had people seriously ask me what else they could use because they couldn't find the pre-bent variety.

I was given a Harbor Freight drill/driver as a birthday present. Chicago brand I believe. The battery life on that thing is amazing. Compared to my hitachi impact driver, the battery last longer and does not seem to discharge when I don't use it. The down side is that it doesn't seem to have much power (torque). Long story short would I buy or have someone buy me another Harbor Freight tool?.....thanks but no thanks.

I'll bet the orange apron guys are still laughing about that question.

hmm.....there must be a clue here somewhere....hmmm

If we are still just talking about riser & stage construction, I would move a circular saw up the list and a Sawzall down the list. And like you said, a good drill or impact driver should be at the top as well.

Sawzall (recipricating saw) are only really good for demolition type work or something that requires little to no accuracy. Circular saw and drill are your basic power tools. Impact drivers are nice, but not necessary. My cordless drill drives screws just as easily (Ridgid). The only problem is that the drill is heavier and not balanced as nicely. Much quieter though. A good hammer is a must. I stay away from the ones that have the head and handle made from different materials. Sooner or later they loosen. A good utility knife, measuring tape, framing square and 2 and 4 foot levels are also ideal. Those few simple tools will go a long way.

Then I suspect you've never screwed 3 1/2 inch deck screws with a quality impact driver because there is a HUGE difference,

*admitted tool junkie and accomplished woodworker

There are a few tools that I wouldn't want to be without while doing my HT construction (or a lot of other construction):

DeWalt 18v Drill
DeWalt 18v Driver (SCREWS! I don't have a single framing nail anywhere in the theater room. A good driver is invaluable)
Dewalt 18v mini circular saw (with a good sharp blade, this dude will cut very well. I cut out ALL of the components of my 8 columns with it and it worked well.)
(They all take the same charger and the batteries interchange)
Tablesaw. I have the big one in the wood shop but in the basement is a used portable. I snatched it off craigslist for $100 and that is a lot better than up and down the stairs all the time.
Kreg pocket hole jig kit. Simply the easiest and fasted joining method around. I started with the cheap single hole one and immediately ordered the large kit for the large bench jig. LOVE IT
Fein Multimaster. Forget jigsaws and sawzalls. This tool is unbelievably awesome. For example, I cut 9 recepicle box holes through 2x6's on my riser in less than an hour and they were straight!
(this tool is expensive at $250, but since I started using it, I wouldn't want to be without it)
Framing square, 2' and 4' level, utility knife, hammer
Speed square
Power miter saw. I use a el cheapo Ryobi for framing lumber. Cost me $99 a long time ago and it works pretty good for basic cuts. The $500 Hitachi Compound miter saw in the shop is A LOT better, but again...its up the stairs and in the shop!
Small compressor, upholstry stapler, brad gun (for wood trim)


There are a multitude of other specialty tools that I own and use but I didn't buy them just for the HT, I just have the fortune of using them. (for example a plywood edge bander)

Used or reconditioned tools can save you a ton. I have bought a lot of recon/used tools from eBay and craiglist.

Amen to that! My DeWalt driver will pull lag bolts into a 4x4 deck post, super quickly! (and snap off the heads if you aren't carefull)

I really think a miter saw would be worth it for something like this. Circ saws and sawzalls are nice and all, but if you're cutting much to length, the miter saw would be so much easier (and more accurate) that it'd make you mad

I agree. I bought a Ryobi 18v battery powered miter saw a long time ago. The thing is indestructible and keeps on going. It is pretty handy not to have to run a power cord and the miter saw has plenty of power. I pretty much have the entire line of Ryobi power tools. They again are pretty much indestructible. I have dropped them several time off of a 6 foot step ladder on to concrete without any problems. A lot of the contractors have gone to using Ryobi in Michigan. Even if you have to replace the tool, you can do it almost 3 times and come out ahead of what you would pay for a major brand name. I have driven lag bolts all day long with both the Ryobi drill and impact driver and have drilled all kinds of holes for running wiring. Also, the drill works great with a hole saw or mixing paint. I know there are people who put the Ryobi brand down but this is the same company that makes Rigid and Milwaukee. BTW, they are on sale at the big orange this weekend. I first bought Ryobi when I went to replace the batteries for my Dewalt drill and found out I could buy the whole Ryobi starter set for the price of one Dewalt replacement battery. I am not going to pay that kind of price for a fancy Black and Decker battery for a drill that has plastic gears inside and is known for transmission problems.

No need to countersink screws with the impact! I swear that mine will send the screw all the way through the board if you keep going.
Edited by aaustin - 6/15/12 at 10:29am

Au contraire Monsieur Grande.... I've driven thousands of 3" screws (I assume deck screws are the same as construction screws etc...) with my impact when sistering joists, installing subfloor, walls etc... When I switch to my drill, it's pretty much just as effortless, but without the noise. I'm just saying that an impact driver isn't "necessary" if you have a good cordless drill. Better to get another tool in the mean time. If I had to choose between a cordless drill and a driver or a cordless drill and a circ. saw, I'd go drill and saw. Good quality basics is all I'm saying.

I actually bought that Ridgid combo pack yesterday. My 10 year old Dewalt drill doesn't seem to make it as long between charges, and I've got a few projects coming up (yeah, I'm trying to convince myself, not you guys ). I tried out the impact driver, and it is nice. It's also louder than I expected, but I use ear plugs most of the time anyway. I can see where it will be really nice for driving screws at odd angles where you can't really get behind it, or driving screws into hard lumber.

However, now that I've got one, I'll second what advertguy2 said. If you've already got a cordless drill, you're probably better off putting your money into another tool. If you don't have a cordless, I'd spend the extra $50 or so and get the combo pack with the drill and the impact driver. It's hard to argue with a cordless being at the top of the list of must haves, and the impact driver is a nice bonus!

Easier? Perhaps. More accurate? That depends on who's putting the 'Skil' in Skil Saw...I can cut 45s and 90s all day with my 6.5" DeWalt Cordless and a speed square for a guide.