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Monoprice RedMere HDMI cables - Page 8

post #211 of 323
Which redmere cables is everyone having problems with? I see two different versions.

I just bought this one for my projector setup to do 1080p 3d.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9432&seq=1&format=2

Should I cancel that and buy a bluejeanscable?
post #212 of 323
I don't think there is an "everyone", so I'm not sure your question is valid. There are just some situations where the chips in the Redmere aren't compatible with some components. But, I haven't been able to see a pattern and the amount of complaints seems relative small. If you have doubt, check the Monoprice website and look at the user comments for the Redmere cables.

If you really have doubts and don't need over 25 feet, then your other choice is a passive High Speed cable. It will be thicker than the Redmere but won't have the active components. Just make sure it is a High Speed cable.
post #213 of 323
I will say that I've used the 22 AWG cables from Monoprice at lengths to 75' without a single hiccup. They do not work if I add wall plates or couplers in line, but at 75' I can get a full 1080p image with HD audio no problem. Realistically, I need to run a test with 3D content playing to ensure that works as well, but I think that the longer length cables really cause headaches when people don't buy a thick enough wire gauge and don't properly support the cable into the device.

My biggest concern with Redmere is that they are integrated active electronics, and electronics have a tendency to fail. In fact, that's what a great number of the negative reviews state - that it looks like the chip set may have some issues, for some people, on some products, which can cause them to fail. While Monoprice gives excellent warranty support, if that 35'+ cable is tucked away behind drywall, then it becomes a $1,000+ replacement issue, which is simply unacceptable to me.

Thick gauge passive cables, plus multiple cat-5/6 runs to cover my bases is the only way I feel secure with any cables which I would ever put in place behind drywall.

If you have easy retro access to put in or remove a cable, then by all means, go with Redmere as the flexibility is excellent.
post #214 of 323
I've tried using a 35' Monoprice HDMI cable from an Anthem D2v to my JVC RS20 projector and I've also tried the Redmere. I get sparkles from both types of cable. Is there a cable that won't produce sparkles at 35"?
post #215 of 323
Quote:
Originally Posted by alk3997 View Post

I don't think there is an "everyone", so I'm not sure your question is valid. There are just some situations where the chips in the Redmere aren't compatible with some components. But, I haven't been able to see a pattern and the amount of complaints seems relative small. If you have doubt, check the Monoprice website and look at the user comments for the Redmere cables.

If you really have doubts and don't need over 25 feet, then your other choice is a passive High Speed cable. It will be thicker than the Redmere but won't have the active components. Just make sure it is a High Speed cable.

I guess Ill just have to try it out and see. I have a solid 40' run so I got the 50' for a little spare. Luckily I live in a single story house with a big attic so it's not that big of a deal for me.

I'm going from a sony DN1040 to a Epson 5030UB. Hopefully those two are up to snuff for the job.
post #216 of 323
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

I've tried using a 35' Monoprice HDMI cable from an Anthem D2v to my JVC RS20 projector and I've also tried the Redmere. I get sparkles from both types of cable. Is there a cable that won't produce sparkles at 35"?
That's a really nice piece of gear!

Have you tried bypassing it?

Seriously, have you tried running straight from your source to the projector? I am quite serious that in the testing I've done I regularly use the JVC RS series projectors with 25' to 50' runs of Monoprice 22 AWG HDMI cables and I have never had a sparkle appear. So, I would double check that you aren't running to close to a wire which may introduce interference, and I would try a direct source to destination to ensure that something 'elsewhere' isn't introducing the interference.

I think if it was still happening I would scream, then use a 6' HDMI cable and put a source right next to the projector. It is possible that the projector itself is introducing the noise.

So frustrating! I feel you on that one. Nothing worse than stuff that is hard to track down.
post #217 of 323
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

I've tried using a 35' Monoprice HDMI cable from an Anthem D2v to my JVC RS20 projector and I've also tried the Redmere. I get sparkles from both types of cable. Is there a cable that won't produce sparkles at 35"?

You probably want to start a separate thread and not post on the Redmere thread (since it also happens with a passive cable).
post #218 of 323
'Is there a cable that won't produce sparkles at 35"?' - the cable doesn't work in isolation (esp. so with active cables).

I see lots of 'high end' AVP's which don't provide enough voltage to drive long passive or active cables.

Have you tried a powered Extender (usually positioned close to the Sink (your Projector) - http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI%20extender.htm

Joe
post #219 of 323
Monoprice has 2 powered extender and one unpowered using power on the cable.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041914&p_id=7700&seq=1&format=2
and
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011012&p_id=8120&seq=1&format=2.

I have yet to have a monoprice product fail to do what they say.

I think using an unpowered one is not a great idea but this is what monoprice has
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041914&p_id=2849&seq=1&format=2

I also like the idea of push verse pull because with pull the problem in the case a weak underpowered signal
and the possibility that there is some sort of interference being added to the signal because of a lack of power
will just be amplified.
post #220 of 323
‘I also like the idea of push verse pull’ – works well in analogue signals, with HDMI the ‘extenders’ ‘recover’ a signal which has dropped below the required voltage and are most often best placed close to the Sink (Display) rather than close to the Source.

Joe
post #221 of 323
Just wanted to post my setup and that everything worked, for future newbies:

3ft from Directv Genie to Oppo 103D
3ft from Oppo 103D to Onkyo 818 AVR (using Oppo as a video processor for Directv feed)
6ft from Tivo Roamio to 818 AVR
6ft from Onkyo 818 to VT50 Plasma

All works like a charm.

Also using two 6 footers in the bedroom, one from a Roku 3 and the other from a Mini Genie to a Panny LCD. I love how easy this things are to deal with and how snug they plug into the HDMI port. My BJC cables are great, but they always fit a little loose.
post #222 of 323
Thanks Joe,

I ordered through Amazon since I had some promotional $$. I don't have any dropouts just sparkles. Hope this cures them.

Ken
post #223 of 323
Hi all, got a question and this seems like the best place to ask.

With the new generation of video game consoles coming out, my HDMIs are already stacked, but I have the powered Monoprice 5x1 switcher. From what I've read here it sounds like it'd work but I'd just like to make sure before I spend the money.

Will the Redmere cables work fine with the switcher? Both from the Switcher to TV and from the Switcher to the components?

I don't have long runs, the main appeal of the Redmere's to me is to make cable management easier. The corner where all this is is very tight and the thick 24awg cables I have are hard to maneuver at times. Plus some port stress maybe. Having the Redmere's will make it all a lot easier but just want to make sure it's actually compatible.

thanks so much!
post #224 of 323
Hmmm, the Redmere cables are active cables in that they draw a little power from the sink end. That's why the actual cable wire can be so small and the runs can be longer than 25'. I use Redmere cables but not with a powered switcher. I don't think using an active cable with a powered switcher would make a difference because the power draw is so small but I don't know for sure.
post #225 of 323
First, is thee anything in between the 15ft and 30ft Redmere cables on Monoprice? I couldn't find anything.

Second, if I had to use the 30ft, do you think two would work with the upcoming XBox One? I have a projector and the kinect won't reach the screen so I think my only option is to put the Xbox One by the screen and run long HDMI cables from the cable box to XBox and XBox to the receiver.

Thanks in advance!
post #226 of 323

Hi All,

 

I am new here and have a question or two.  I am considering redemere, in large part b/c of the flexability of them.  I also want to take the stress off of the ports.

 

I have a Sharp Aquos 70" 240mhz (don't have the model number right this second).  I have a Denon AVR3312CI receiver.

 

I know I can use the Redmere from the receiver from the Denon to the TV.  My question relates to connecting my PS3 to the reciever.  Can I/Should I use a redmere from the PS3 to the receiver? (It is pretty short distance, it's mostly that the plug puts a lot of pressure on the HDMI port on the PS3.  If I can, I assume that the "TV" end would go into the receiver?

 

Thanks all.  I apologize if the question has already been asked.

post #227 of 323
Basically you are trading the complexity of an active cable (Redmere) for taking stress of the ports. The electronics in a Redmere can fail.

If the cables are indeed short, there are thin certified High Speed cables that you could use instead. I thought I saw that Monoprice had just released a new line of passive High Speed cables.

There have been some complaints about using two Redmeres in the chain. Others have not reported problems. So, I suspect you may have to try two Redmeres to know if it is going to work. It will depend upon whether the electronics in the cable can get sufficient power.
post #228 of 323

Thanks.  The one from the receiver to the TV is quite long.  It goes into the wall, up the ceiling, over a few feet and then back down and out behind the TV.  I think the one I have in there right now is around 25 ft.  The other one, from the PS3 to the receiver is short, maybe 6 ft. so I will probably leave that one alone.

post #229 of 323
Quote:
Originally Posted by alk3997 View Post

Basically you are trading the complexity of an active cable (Redmere) for taking stress of the ports. The electronics in a Redmere can fail.

If the cables are indeed short, there are thin certified High Speed cables that you could use instead. I thought I saw that Monoprice had just released a new line of passive High Speed cables.

There have been some complaints about using two Redmeres in the chain. Others have not reported problems. So, I suspect you may have to try two Redmeres to know if it is going to work. It will depend upon whether the electronics in the cable can get sufficient power.
To add to your information. I've switched to 36 AWG passive HDMI cables for input to my AVR, and to a 36AWG Monoprice active Redmere 15' cable to my TV.

I bought the passive cables here.

I made the change out of concern for strain on the HDMI ports. I was using 28 AWG cables, but was worried about gravity and weight pulling on the ports.

It turned out that a couple of weeks ago I had to modify a family members 28 AWG cable connections to relieve strain that had developed over a four year period. His situation was made worse because right angle adapters had been used due to the very tight space available in his converted linen closet.

My 36 AWG passive input cables have been working for several months. The 15' Redmere cable has been in use for a little over a month.
post #230 of 323
I'm looking to get a HDMI cable for a 4K projector located about 40' away from the source
I saw a 50' Redmere from Monoprice (approx. $60)
The source will be an AVR ---> Powered Switch ----> Projector (and Monitor)
Will this set up works ?

Are there other similarly priced options that I should consider instead (better value/performance)
Can I install these in wall?
Do you recommend a different approach?

(from a quick read of the thread it seems like this will work- but wanted to check)
post #231 of 323
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgott42 View Post

Can I install these in wall?

I'm wondering the same thing - I have a relatively short run, but it is in-wall (through a grommet) so I do need in-wall rated cable. Monoprice steered me to some of their Redmere cable, suggesting that it's VW-1 rating means it's acceptable for in-wall residential use. However, they also market and sell CL rated cable, and all information I can find is that, while VW1 rated cable meets flammabiliy requirements, it is NOT rated for in-wall applications. It needs to have that CL rating. Despite this, they include the "approved for in-wall" bit it in the information on their product page and their product support reps insist this is correct. However, cursory information from installers that I see indicates otherwise.
post #232 of 323
Quick update: these Monoprice Redmere cables, despite the information on their website, are NOT acceptable for in-wall applications. Ultimately, as I indicated earlier, you need one with a CL rating. However, if you ask them they do insist that you'll be fine with VW-1, which is incorrect.
post #233 of 323
Urghh I already ordered 1
post #234 of 323
I've been meaning to respond to this for a few days but couldn't get enough time. Sorry it took this long.

Blue Jean's Cable website has a number of good articles on it (besides selling cable). One discusses in-wall ratings. In the following article the ratings are discussed:
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/inwallrating.htm

The article states that,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Jeans Cable 
"So, if a cable isn't marked CL2 or CL3, is it suitable for in-wall installation? It may be. The NEC allows cable of a higher rating to be substituted for a lower rating, and therefore, any of the following may be used: CM, CMP, CMR, CMG, CL2R, CL3R, CL2P, CL3P, PLTC. CMX also may be used where CL2X or CL3X is required."

But, VW-1 is not listed in the above. CL2 (and the associated ratings) were developed as part of the National Electric Code (NEC) as guidelines for protecting structures and people. While the NEC code is not mandatory, many municipalities have adopted it as their requirement making it mandatory in that municipality for all building inspections. Why was it developed? Well, in part, it was developed to prevent in-wall fires from spreading or at least reducing the spread. It was found that cables could provide a path for flames to propagate through walls. So, the guideline/requirement protects the building, the people and the buildings/people nearby.

Because you can never have enough standards, Underwriters Laboratory (UL) in the USA and the Canadian Standard Association (in Mexico, no they are in Canada) came up with their own flammability test and standards. VW-1 is their lowest residential allowed in-wall cable with restricted use.

Based on a few charts I've read this is equivalent to an NEC CL2X. In NEC 640.21(C), it states the following for in-wall use:

• (1) CL2 and CL3 are always permitted;
• (2) CL2X ("X" is a residential suffix, signifying a lower grade than plain CL2) or CL3X may be installed in raceways;
• (3) CL2X or CL3X, if under 1/4 inch in diameter, may be installed in a 1 or 2 family residential dwelling without a raceway; if nonconcealed, it may also be installed in multifamily dwellings.

So, is VW-1 acceptable for in-wall use? It may be, depending upon the usage and the dwelling. One possible problem could be that many municipaltities would not accept VW-1 as an acceptable substitution for the NEC code.

I used the following conversion chart between UL/CSA and NEC.
http://www.hca.hitachi-cable.com/products/hcm/faq/data/NEC-UL-hierarchy.pdf

The bottom line is VW-1 provides some flammability protection, so Monoprice may have been at least partically correct in what they told you. Does a VW-1 cable stand as an equivalent substitution for CL-2X from a legal standpoint if something were to happen? I don't know the answer to that.
Edited by alk3997 - 11/25/13 at 3:50pm
post #235 of 323
Quote:
Originally Posted by alk3997 View Post

The bottom line is VW-1 provides some flammability protection, so Monoprice may have been at least partically correct in what they told you. Does a VW-1 cable stand as an equivalent substitution for CL-2X from a legal standpoint if something were to happen? I don't know the answer to that.
Thanks for the very informative response! I will acknowledge they were correct about VW-1 indicating flammability protection. However, also using that specification to indicate in-wall approved use is just incorrect and misleading.. If their reasoning was other national codes, they certainly don't disclose this nor would those codes carry any weight in most municipalities, as far as I'm aware (I can't imagine local inspectors deferring to a national code other than the NEC).

That said, many installers will tell you, "if it's not printed on the jacket it isn't rated", regardless of what you're told. Considering they need to stand behind the quality of their work and equipment, I'm apt to agree.
post #236 of 323
It really does go back who is doing the install. If I'm a contractor or installer working on a home, I'm going to make sure that 1) I'm meeting flammability requirements because I don't want to get sued (and don't want someone's house burning down) and 2) I want to be able to pass whatever inspections come through since failing an inspection costs money. So I'll be sure I'm going to use cable that shows CL2 (or CL2X where permitted).

However, if I'm a homeowner in an already built and inspected house, maybe I'm just worried about flammability since it would never require an inspection. If two cables provide equal flammability protection, then maybe I'm comfortable with a VW-1 label since it is equivalent to CL2X. I guess it just depends upon who is doing the installation and their goals.
post #237 of 323
In terms of diy installs, I'd be just as concerned with insurance inspection as municipal.. If the structure was insured, anyway. Regardless of it's flammability protection, VW-1 is NOT rated for in-wall use. An insurance inspector will look to the NEC to determine code for an installation.

Can you go ahead and use VW-1 in that install? Sure. Is it going to cause any problems on it's own? Not at all, likely and VW-1 would be better than one without flammability protection but this still doesn't mean it's an approved use, should it ever be inspected by anyone. I wouldn't want to have to try to convince someone otherwise, when there isn't anything definitive that suggests it.

Monoprice is pushing Redmere as an in-wall solution, even before they mention CL, and even before non-Redmere products when redmere isn't neccesary (shorter runs) which is what caused me to double check.
Edited by AKA - 11/26/13 at 12:21pm
post #238 of 323
Yes. It's because they don't have a Redmere product that has CL ratings - not a good reason. Which brings up the question, why don't they have a CL-rated Redmere cable? It should be just submitting it for testing, waiting for approval and then adding CLxx to the print. Of course, that also takes money.
Edited by alk3997 - 11/26/13 at 1:25pm
post #239 of 323
If they consider VW-1 sufficient for in-wall (even though it's not), there is likely little reason for them to consider a CL one, unfortunately.
post #240 of 323
I had this same issue when we installed Cat-6 cables during a remodeling project. I followed this:

Residential:

Residential rated cables are rated for use in homes, though they may be used in commercial buildings if conduits included with the installation.
Residential Cables are held to a lower standard than any of the other 3 types. Plenum, Riser, and General Purpose rated cables may be substituted for
Residential rated cables.

Signaling - CL2x
Communications - CMx
COAX/Ant - CATVx

I used CMR rated Cat-6 cable in a conduit. From my understanding, a VW-1 cable is considered a flame retardant cable which is designed to only restrict the spread of fire by inhibiting combustion.
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