Originally Posted by Carnut12
Thank you that is exactly what I was looking for, now the question is what type of Amps does my Theater system and chairs take? My Jack wagon Electrician labeled all my breakers, but seems like he did it quick because they are not all accurate. Looks like I will need a 20 AMP, I will have to see what I have, think it might be a 15 AMP. 15 AMP will do it, but it would also be running the Home theater so I wouldn't want to take the chance.
Two things: First, popcorn machines are essentially electric heaters (same basic category as a hair dryer or electric range, really), and will suck up the juice when cooking. For example, my Paragon machine has a faceplate rating of 1200W. Most circuits in your house will be 15A, giving a max of 1800W - so you can see how close you're getting just with the popcorn machine running. I'd be wary of putting a popcorn machine on the same circuit as any refrigerator - as the fridge compressor will come on randomly - if it does while you're popping corn, I think you'll trip the breaker... Note that the 80% load rule is meant for static load (lighting, etc.) planning - your popcorn machine won't be running all the time, and your A/V equipment will never consistently consume anywhere near their faceplate ratings at the same time. (My rack + projector + sub draws a total of ~7A at high volume, for example)
Second (this is very important): The breaker on each circuit in your house is sized according to the wiring gauge of the circuit. You CANNOT safely replace a 15A breaker with a 20A to "get more power" to a circuit. At least, not without having someone qualified to check that the wiring would support it. The only practical way to bring more electrical capacity to a room (after the fact) is to add more circuits, perhaps a dedicated 20A circuit for your equipment rack, or for the popcorn machine. Or one for each!