AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Screens › DIY Screen Section › Best paint so existing conditions don't worsen
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Best paint so existing conditions don't worsen

post #1 of 13
6/29/12 at 11:17am
Thread Starter 
Hi all. I spent some time reading on this forum about 6 years ago when I first was thinking about a projector, but I've only now decided to paint a screen - have moved and hate the color of the walls in the new "movie room", which is also a rec room. I've got an InFocus IN72 projecting a 44x80" image in an 11.5'x11.5' room (hung from the inside of a closet), with 4 darkish sage walls, 1 window on the left wall, medium wood floor with dark purple rug, dark brown tall piano against the right wall. It actually looks pretty impressive, to me anyway, except for the colors being off. I've been thinking about how to cheer up the room, esp for winter, and hope I don't have a worse picture quality as a result, although I'm a bit pessimistic on that score.

I don't know what brand the existing paint is, but I've got a Ben Moore color fan and this is what I'm thinking:
The existing walls are close to Garden Path #466 LRV 42.8. I would like to replace the 3 non-screen walls with the color in the rest of the house, close to Linen White INT.RM. LRV 84.7.
The wall with the screen would have the background Cabot Trail #998 LRV 28.5, which is a lovely darkish grey-brown and the screen whatever would be the best choice. I assumed just a basic white. I think a light grey might look alright also, but not sure. I could also use the linen white color. And I could use a darker shade of the cabot trail family that reflects a lot less light, up to LRV 9.9, as a painted frame around the screen if that would help.
My main questions would be white or greyish screen (if so how dark) and then type of paint, flat or satin, for the screen. I assume I would want flat paint for the wall around the screen.
thanks very much for any suggestions.
Reply
Reply

AVS Top Picks

post #2 of 13
6/29/12 at 3:15pm
Thread Starter 
I could also use a much lighter shade of the brown @ LRV 61.1 instead of the linen white on the other 3 walls to help limit the light bounced back onto the image. And then the Glidden Diamond 450 Titanium White for the screen.
Does that sound like a good (easy) solution? or could it be improved with some more tweaks? I have no skills and will be rolling the paint and hoping for the best.
thanks.
Reply
Reply
post #3 of 13
7/2/12 at 10:39am
Lots of posts on wall paint in this forum. You should consider preparing the wall first via skimming and sanding (search for skimming and wall prep in this forum). You should also consider a frame for your "screen". A velvet wrapped frame (3.25" wide, composite baseboard for instance) would help "set out" your screen, improve picture quality and allow you to be a little less careful with masking when painting your screen a different color.

Others can better provide advice on specific screen colors. They'll need to know other details such as the rooms size, seating distance, distance from PJ to screen, extent of light control, and the type of viewing (i.e., do you watch television or sports with distant or dimmed lights on).

In terms of wall colors, your second choice sounds like a better choice. The side walls are more important for smaller rooms. The ceiling color is particularly important. Mississippi Man discussed this in a recent reply to Bama Boy, if you haven't seen this thread already.
Reply
Reply
post #4 of 13
7/2/12 at 11:02am
Thread Starter 
thanks for the reply StreamLover. I was starting to worry that my old pj and interest in simplicity was not going to inspire anyone to comment!
I have read so many threads on this forum about paint and room conditions. I had initially been ambitious with paint mix ideas, but realize that I need to be realistic about what my (lack of) skills can handle. I was also inspired by biglyle's experience and think I will be happy with something 95% awesome.
I've got some flexibility with which walls are which color, but do want the overall room to be pleasant when I read or play the piano. (Details of room in 1st post - it's a spare bedroom with the pj hung from the top shelf in the closet, closet doors removed)
The image is not centered on the wall (closet is not centered) - it is very close to the left wall and closer to the floor than the ceiling, so I'm now thinking that the left wall should be the darkest in the room. My ceiling has to stay white. The left wall also has the one window, so having it dark would be the least disruptive for sunlight reflection for other activities. If I only have that left wall dark, would that also be the best for projection? I read somewhere that the actual projection wall doesn't need to be so dark as long as there is a dark frame contrast with the image. I don't like the idea of black velvet, but could possibly accept dark brown, but that would require making a frame since sticking an adhesive one on the wall wouldn't be up to standards. I don't think I want to make a frame - would like to paint one if that would help, knowing that even flat paint will reflect light. Of course, I could do 2 dark walls and not paint a separate frame. Would compromise the daylight when I want it, but I could do that if it's really worth it.
I can black out the window and close the door for viewing, so really the white ceiling and lighter color on the right and back walls (and maybe projection wall) would be the only reason to consider a grey screen (N8.5) instead of white.
Also not sure about whether to add the Minwax and water, and exactly which brand and type of base to choose. The Glidden Pro Diamond 450 sounds ideal but also seems hard to source - I could do a Behr if I'm not losing out too much on east of application and end result. I will prep the wall properly before attempting any paint.
Would really love some quick comments since my indecision is starting to drive me nuts! I know there's no 1 *right* solution, but would be reassured with some advice on what's preferable. thanks.
Oh I should add I only watch regular DVD movies - no TV, Blueray or 3-D or anything fancy. :-)
and also want to clarify that I don't mean to obsess about details that might not be important, I just don't want to make any obviously (and easily correctable) bad decisions. thanks again.
Edited by kim smith - 7/2/12 at 11:31am
Reply
Reply
post #5 of 13
7/2/12 at 12:45pm
Quote:
I can black out the window and close the door for viewing, so really the white ceiling and lighter color on the right and back walls (and maybe projection wall) would be the only reason to consider a grey screen (N8.5) instead of white.

Kim,

The use of a Gray surface for your screen would benefit your PJs effort to reproduce the best blacks possible. A white surface would not do so even in the darkest environment.

The ONLY time a white can be construed as perfect for ANY occasion is when you have both an ideally set up room with totally non-reflective surfaces, AND your "digital" Projector can produce Black levels on par with or exceeding the depth of blacks produced by CRT projectors.

Sadly, the InFocus72 does not fall under that heading, and the room's wall / ceiling surfaces certainly do not address the former specifications.

So stop questioning the need to go Gray....as it is in your best interests to do so.

The IN72 is bright (w/a new bulb) so overt attenuation via the use of a light Gray won't be a concern. You needn't worry so much about using the absolute best paint either....just a good quality paint. Use a Behr Interior UPW Enamel "Flat" mixed with your choice of a neutral Gray. That will do it.

However, if you want more than the silly 95% level (...that always was just a "tossed out there figure, you know....) and want to shoot for a painted surface that would both enhance Blacks, make colors really "PoP", and have just enough gain to allow you to run the IN72 on Low Lamp (...which will further lower Black levels...) then decide that is what you want and ask for the advice needed to get there and getter' dun.


BTW, your comments seem to indicate your really not aware as to the entire list of reasons for the use of a Black border.
Simply stated, it serves to both mask any slight light overspill around the edges, and provides a valuable reference for the Brain to adjudge Black levels within the image content. You can absolve yourself of the need for such by painting the wall a very non-reflective color...but that only will go so far. And selecting a paint for use as a Trim coating is "very" haphazard if any real performance gains are to result from having such trim.
Reply
Reply
post #6 of 13
7/2/12 at 6:09pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Use a Behr Interior UPW Enamel "Flat" mixed with your choice of a neutral Gray. That will do it.

Thank you! In some circumstances it's nice to just be told what to do. :-) I thought that might be a good solution, but confirmation is so reassuring.
I was thinking about RS-MaxxMud LL v2.1 for a long time, and I imagine you would recommend that as a better paint mix. If I'm not pleased with just the tinted Behr, I will be open to trying that. But I don't think I'm actually that picky. I've been pretty happy with my pj for several years in different non-ideal conditions, I don't even have HD, and I've been watching movies on my dark sage green wall for a few months now without really noticing too much. I'm painting because I hate the color of the walls during the day! So basically I don't know what I'm missing pq-wise and that's ok with me, for now anyway!

So just to re-state what I plan to do:
- screen of Behr UPW flat enamel with 8.5 neutral grey tint, no addition of Minwax or water.
- 2 darkish brown walls (projection wall and left wall) with no extra frame around screen.
- 2 light brown walls (right wall and behind)

That's simple enough for me. once again, thanks MississippiMan for taking the time to reply. I just need to wait for less humid weather to getter done. :-)

Edit: well, I re-read the Beginner's Delight thread again and changed my mind about the Minwax - think I will add it (4:1) and the water and try the 2 roller method. Would like to get the depth that was discussed as well as the consistency for a smooth finish. And I'll use the 1750 base...
Edited by kim smith - 7/2/12 at 7:14pm
Reply
Reply
post #7 of 13
7/3/12 at 9:12am
Sounds like a good beginning for you. It's not very often I encourage anyone to haul up short of the very best solution they can attempt....but your choice (w/ Minwax-water) is at least the next step toward achieving something better than just splashing on some paint.

You might not be able to find the "1750" designation. If not, simply ask for a Behr Interior Latex Enamel "Flat" "BASE" (probably best to use what is called "Pastel Base") Try hard to not let them persuade you to get a Primer/Paint combo. You don't need nor want it.

Use good quality rollers, and while you do want to work the wet edge, don't overwork the paint. Lay it up evenly and wet and then go away. DO NOT rush to put on the next coat, but rather allow for as much drying time as you possibly can.

Good luck!
Reply
Reply
post #8 of 13
7/3/12 at 3:28pm
Thread Starter 
thanks for the encouragement, I'm feeling much more confident and motivated to start. The HD here does have Behr 1750, so I'll go with that when the time comes. I had wanted to do an 8 oz sample of the 8.5 neutral since no one has neutral grey paint chips and I'd like to adjust the exact brown wall colors so that the room is as harmonious as possible, but they couldn't adjust the quart formula that I gave them to the small size. I looked around at the chips they had and absolutely fell in love with a color that I'm pretty sure is a bit too blue, Glidden Arctic Stone. It would be gorgeous for just a rectangle on a brown wall, but I probably can't use it for a screen. It looks to be the right darkness and I'll get an RGB reading on it in any case. Found another very similar, Glidden Shaded Ice, that appears to be more neutral, but it's hard to tell. If the readings are too far of from true neutral than I guess I'll just go with the formula, but that grey is certain to not be the most appealing of them all... It's actually amazingly complex to find a happy solution when room aesthetics are given as much weight as technical projection requirements.
I will definitely post back with end results, but it could get delayed for maybe another month or so given current atrocious weather and summer plans...
Reply
Reply
post #9 of 13
7/3/12 at 4:44pm
Brown and Gray is a tough match-up. I'd suggest something that is still "Earthy"...but in a Greener way. Take a look at Grays that have a degree of noticeable green in them....but not too much...or as much as you can stand. No matter. Even "Blueish Grays" work great in the Decor scheme of things. Browns simply posses too much "Red", or too much "Yellow" depending on their depth of hue, and so they contrast...(clash) with a dark, cooler color. And Brown tends to create the illusion of a smaller space. (...a main peeve of many Decorators...)

Sadly, but only darker Browns or deep Reds (...or lighter "Tans"...) seem to compliment a mid-toned Brown.

Dark Blues and ultra deep Flat Reds get the job done, but are of course a personal preference...or not.

Of all this I'm certain you are all too aware, based on your comments above. But all I can add is that with my having had to deal with this sort of issue quite a bit, if I'm given the opportunity to do so, I try to steer anyone away from creating a room that doesn't look as good when the lights are up as the Screen looks when the lights are down. And I especial voice warning oi the Room's color composition might work against the Screen / PJs performance potential. Fortunately, there is usually some pliability.

Now....that is not to say I haven't worked with Browns, but unless the shade was extremely dark, and the sheen almost but not quite non-existent, almost any degree of light that hits it gets reflected as a "color"...most often a light reddish brown, which in turn creates a yellowish brown cast on the area of the screen closest to that source. mad.gif

All that pertains to Screen performance and not cosmetics, I know. But I'd be remiss not to point out what is at least as important a consideration as any other to bear in mind when making a color selection for a room where there is to be a huge, light producing display. cool.gif

Give the aforementioned color suggestions a look on some color chips, and if something untold regarding your Furniture or Carpet isn't holding you back, you might find a pleasing alternative that makes the room truly beautiful, light on or off. smile.gif
Reply
Reply
post #10 of 13
7/3/12 at 7:30pm
Thread Starter 
very helpful, once again. :-) Colors are fun and exasperating! I'll be very happy when it all feels just right!
Reply
Reply
post #11 of 13
7/24/12 at 7:24pm
Thread Starter 
Well, the weather's still too humid for painting but I've made some adjustments to the color scheme. I'll probably keep tweaking it until I actually go buy the paint!
So I think the walls will be a tan color around 63% reflective (Almond Wisp, Behr UL170-16u or similar) but the left wall that is the closest perpendicular surface to the screen will be a dark grey-blue 25% reflective (River Tour, Behr UL240-7m or similar). For the screen I checked the formula for the Glidden Shaded Ice and it's got black (80 384ths) and Yellow Iron Oxide (20 384ths) so I guess that's neutral. It appears to be about 77% reflective. I think I prefer the look of a slightly warmer grey - Valspar Tempered Grey 4004-1A or Ben Moore Shoreline 1471 which are both about 70% reflective. Is there really such a huge difference in picture quality to require going with the most neutral? I suppose if I'm not satisfied with the warmer grey I could paint over it... I'm leaning towards the black trim too...
no responses needed to this post, I'm just musing publicly... :-)
Reply
Reply
post #12 of 13
7/25/12 at 8:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kim smith View Post

.
no responses needed to this post, I'm just musing publicly... :-)

Too late!eek.gif

Neutrality in color, be it White or Gray, helps avoid any resultant "color push" that strays away from an accurate depiction of the color output of any given PJ.

Of course, not all PJs are themselves perfect in rendering color. But a screen surface can have a noticeable...if indeed a deleterious effect if it's not well suited to the job.

That being said, there have been a great many postings by newcomers to the PJ scene who have related how fantastic their new PJ's image looked simply projecting on any ol' White - Tan - Beige - Light Blue - Gray wall. That's because of two important reasons.

1. With today's brighter, more color accurate / higher contrast /higher resolution PJs, when a NOOB sees the "Big Picture" the first time, and it impresses them with it's size and the simplicity of using a available wall, whats not to love?

2. Being NOOBs, and without having seen the differences that are patently obvious under any direct (...or even a "remembered" ) comparison, there is no benchmark of expectation to detract from No#1.

So.....if you decide to paint a wall for a screen, and you get close to using a neutral Gray, then yes, it's a strong likelihood your gonna be happy with your results. But............if you do not like the end result, expect to have to re-prime the wall a bright whiite, as painting over a darker underlying surface will all too often result in reduced gain (reflectivity) and a duller image.


You can reply if you want to...................................biggrin.gif
Reply
Reply
post #13 of 13
7/25/12 at 9:37am
Thread Starter 
ok fine. I'll start with the neutral and repaint with a warmer grey if the daytime colors bug me. But that probably won't happen - the Shaded Ice color is actually very nice for a ~neutral grey. :-) I need some dry weather so I can just get on with it!
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Screen Section

AVS Top Picks

AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Screens › DIY Screen Section › Best paint so existing conditions don't worsen