Pioneer VSX-1122-K OWNERS Thread - Page 12

Hi all, noob here so be gentle!

Picked up 2 Cerwin Vega XLS-215 towers a few weeks back and just ordered this receiver. For some reason I can't get the 2 woofers to produce any sound while hooked up. The tweeter/mid play sound but nothing from the big guys.

I know for a fact that they work because I had the speakers hooked up to my dad's almost 30 year old amp/receiver and they were playing just fine. Does anybody know what I'm doing wrong? Have tried connecting speakers to F/L terminals as well as surround back and trying all different setups in the menu system but still have not had any luck.

I know it is something probably super simple and I imagine that this receiver should work just fine.

Right now I'm running 2.0 as well. I have to finish the home theatre room set up before I go to 7.2. It definitely runs 2.0, use the iPhone/iPad app sound balancer, and tilt it full forward. Massive difference

That's funny, I have to finish my new room also before I set mine up 7.1. My room is not a theater room, it's den/sunroom. Right now I'm trimming out the skylights. I wanted to be ready for the Super Bowl but I'm not going to make it. How close are you?

Not 100%, but I think the fronts have to be set as large for it to send lows.

Have you checked to see what they're set as? (Small/large)

You must like it LOUD! Did you check that the Jumper straps between the binding posts on the back are in place? The top two posts drive the tweeters and mids only. Bottom posts drive bass. If you don't have them, you can use a short piece of speaker wire to connect the posts (vertically, red to red, black to black). http://www.cerwinvega.com/manuals/home/xls-manual.pdf

Other than that, did you go through the setup steps using the software? Make sure that they speakers are set to Large. I'm not in front of the amp, but I believe you can also tell it that you have no sub, and/or reduce the crossover/turn it off to prevent the bass signal to be sent to the (non-existent) sub.

F.

Sorry guys...

I'm sending my VSX-1122-K back. I like the unit and all, but I just couldn't totally solve the HDCP Errors and related issues I was having. When the HDCP Error occurred, it would totally blank out my display. When I didn't get this, it would blamk the screen every from time to time for a few seconds (very annoying). I know some people say the HDMI cable doesn't make a difference. But in my case, I did swap the HDMI cables around and it did make a significant difference on how often and how bad this problem showed up. So there was some effect there between two brands, but both where low cost HDMI cables. Picture quality didn't look any different switching the cables around. Maybe a more expensive high quality brand cable would have totally eliminated the problem (but again maybe not).

On a good note, I seemed to have found that the SC-1222-K that I decided to try hasn't shown this issue at all.

I wish that Pioneer did a better job talking about the difference between their products. From just the website, I can't find anything that would have led me to believe their would be a difference for my issue. I just searched hard on the web to find anything about others having issues with HDCP on the SC-1222-K. I couldn't find hardly any mention of it as compared to what I could find on the VSX-1122-K. It is also very likely that I not have seen this issue, if I had a newer HDTV model. I have an older Pioneer PDP-5070HD Plasma HDTV. I could not find any firmware for this TV. It sounded like I'd have to pay to have the firmware installed even if there was firmware version that would have helped my issue. I'm am convinved that the issue was between the handnshaking between the Pioneer Plamsa HDTV and the receiver. :-(

I got a good deal online, while not as good as the VSX-1122-K. But it was close enough. The SC-1222-K is a bigger unit for sure. it was at least 3" deeper and weighed 10 lbs heavier.

Both sounded good to me, but I think that the SC-1222-K sounds a tad better. It sounds smoother and not as harse to me. Mind you; if I didn't have this HDCP issue, I would have been more than satisfied with the VSX-1122-K. While there is some additional features on the SC-1222-K, they were not anything that I needed for my particular use, I can't tell any difference in the picture quality other than the issue I was having with the HDCP is gone. What a waste and bother for the consumer to having to deal with this HDCP. Like how many other ways are there to make copies of HD material. Using the HDMI signal would not be the best way or the easiest. Why should all the consumer market be punished by having stupid issues like this. lol

For those of you that are not having my HDCP issue, this is a great little receiver. I hope that my comments here helps, in some small way, someone seeing the same issues has I have.
Edited by Klips - 2/4/13 at 2:29am

Hello,

I am considering purchasing a VSX-1122-K, though I suspect my standard usage mode will be non-standard. The main things I am interested in are:

• Stereo output
• Ability to play the same stereo output to either or both of two sets of speakers (A, B, or A+B)
• AirPlay support

When looking for an AirPlay-enabled receiver, home theater support seems to be standard. But all I have are two sets of stereo speakers (inside and outside). So it is pretty clear that this receiver is overkill for me. Some of the bells/whistles seem pretty nice, though (like an iPad app).

One thing I want to be clear about: can I set it up (initial configuration) without attaching it to an external display? Any other things I should be aware of?

Thank you,
Tom

I have no experience with stereo output (mine is hooked up to a 7.1 speaker configuration). Setup can be in several ways. I did mine through my PC (AVR connected to LAN), and the wizard walked me through the speaker setup as well as the calibration. Afterwards you can log into the receiver through a browser to set the Pandora and Sirius passwords. The PC interface (through the software) also has ways to adjust the calibration parameters.
However, I still think this is much easier through the display interface. Can you not temporarily attach a small screen?
BTW, have a look through this forum, some people have had issues setting up a 2.0 (not a 2.1) configuration, I'm not sure if that was ever resolved.

F.

Frank,

Thanks for this info - just what I was wondering. Temporarily attaching a small screen sounds like it would be worth the extra hassle. I will also look back for info on 2.0 setup issues, now that I know what to search for!

Tom

Is there a way to initiate airplay streaming to zone 2 without interrupting zone 1?

''Afterwards you can log into the receiver through a browser to set the Pandora and Sirius passwords''

Can you explain this to me?

Just ordered mine ;):o

I have a 2007 Samsung Plasma that this receiver will be connected to. I have never done a firmware update on the TV and just checked the Samsung website and there is one (back from 08). Should I do this now, or just let it roll. I am worried about there being a HDMI handshake problem with such an old TV. Any suggestions?

I entered my Pandora and Sirius passwords through the OSD interface on the attached TV. However, if Yotommy has no TV attached he will not be able to do that (unless he finds a screen to temporarily use). Alternative is to use the web interface to the Amp.

When the amp is connected to your LAN it will receive an IP address through DHCP from your router (unless you have set up manual IP addresses, in which case you already know what the Amps IP address is ). Log into the router and look at the list of clients. Figure out which one is the Amplifier (this may take some trying, my router did not show the Amps 'friendly name' - you may want to try an app like Fing that can interrogate all devices on the network so you know which is which). Enter the IP address in the address bar of your browser and you'll get to a webpage for your Amp. Enter your Pandora credentials (someone reported that the Amp would not remember the credentials until he installed the latest firmware).

I used the OSD interface which was a pain, having to scroll through the alphabet many times to enter my (long) email addresses and passwords. Try the web interface first.

F.

Can someone give me some information on this? My receiver will be here tomorrow and I am ready to get busy (not with the receiver, I dont like it THAT much), but dont want the TV firmware not being updated, to cause me a problem. Thanks in advance.

Why the 1122 over the 1022? Looks like the price difference is $100. I am running 5.1, book shelf speakers and will probably go wired.

Do you have to buy the as-bt200 to use the iphone app, as well as the as-wl300 to connect to your network wirelessly? Since my computer is a laptop and of course has a wifi connection, can I just plug the laptop into the receiver using the Ethernet connection on both devices, or do I need to plug the receiver directly into the router? Which will be problematic because they are so far apart. Thanks.

Jonathan

You should connect the receiver to your router, either with a physical cable (best solution), the Pioneer Wi-Fi adapter you reference above, or any one of a number of bridges you can get at BestBuy that will bridge your AVR's ethernet connection to your router via Wi-Fi. Then, your laptop uses Wi-Fi to talk to your router and, hence, the AVR.

Directly connecting will technically be possible, using a cross-over cable, but the AVR will not be able to resolve an IP address or any of the other settings it will try to get from your router (i.e. DHCP) and who knows how the AVR will respond to that.

Really, just get an inexpensive ethernet to Wi-Fi adapter and be done with it.

I have an old linksys router, this is probably a dumb question, but can your run two modems and two routers in the same house or will that confuse all the equipment. I could possibly have the cable company put a line in behind the receiver, put a modem there, and wire it to the receiver.

Sorry to be uninformed, but I'm not quite picking up the bridge concept. Is it pretty much the as-wl300, but a generic one? I plug it in the back of my receiver and then my receiver can read my laptop. Or well, the router actually, which in turn is reading my receiver. That's the same thing that piece from pioneer does correct? Never messed with bridges before.

Yes, you can run two separate routers and modems, but for simplicity, keep them physically isolated and make sure the Wi-Fi configuration for each router is on a separate set of channels and using different SSIDs. I am trying to imagine why you want two modems and two routers, so there is probably something I am missing with your setup. You should head over to a BestBuy and talk to the GeekSquad guys. Write down what you have and how it's all connected and tell them what you want to do and they can help.

But, based on what I've read from your previous post, I think you just need an Ethernet to Wi-Fi adapter for your AVR and use the one modem and one router you already have.

Good luck!

Ok, I got the concept. The cheapest I found was $45, but if it isn't going to work worth a darn, I don't want to use it. Have you guys had much success using a bridge? Any particular brand that isles reliable than others? Thanks for the help. I learned something today. The as-wl300 is $100 right now on sale also. Just for comparisons sake. Thanks again.

You're right. I Just have an old router here I was hoping to use as a bridge. Just trying not to spend the $100 for the Ethernet adapter. But I'll get a bridge. My cousin works for the cable company and I was just going to ask him to put me a line in right there by the receiver. But then i need a modem also. I was just trying to get out on the cheap is all. Thanks for your help today.

Your cheapest option is to run an Ethernet cable from your router to the receiver. You should consider that your best, most reliable choice. Adding a modem would only increase your monthly bills.

you could buy a cheap wifi router, install ddwrt, and run it in bridge mode. So you would use it to connect to your wireless network, and then connect an Ethernet cable from the router(bridge) to the receiver. I paid under $20 for mine...
Edited by wilkcards - 2/9/13 at 10:13pm

The OP already stated that he can't reasonably run a line, but you are right that an ether-hose is the best solution.

And, you are kidding with the DD-WRT stuff, right? If the OP had the technical acumen for that solution, he wouldn't be on this forum asking basic questions about networking.

I also get a pretty good lag when I'm changing channels. I'm running the hdmi to the receiver from the cable box and out to the TV. I'm probably just gonna run audio to the receiver and the hdmi from the cable box to the TV directly. The only thing it could possibly be is an older hdmi cable that might not be high speed which is causing the lag. Any thoughts on this?

You are right about that. I'm pretty smart (I think) and think I can handle what he's talking about, but will probably just buy the bridge. I found a bridge on amazon for $25 and it has pretty good reviews. I was just tossing out ideas in case I wasn't thinking about something that would be simple. I don't have the original disk from the linksys router, and did find out I could set it to bridge mode, but that has to be done through the set up disk correct? I think the $25 is the way to go though considering the above poster is correct and I probably don't want to get into that much technical stuff when I could just buy the $25 part and really don't know what I'm doing.

Unless you have a really old / poor cable it's hard for me to imagine that the HDMI cable is the problem here; it's more likely a handshaking issue between the cable box and the AVR. You might try configuring the HDMI connection on the AVR to force it to 1080p (or whatever your TV can handle), instead of AUTO and see if that makes a difference during the handshaking process, which might address the delay issue.

When I was considering my next AVR purchase, I spent a lot of time reading the Yamaha and Denon owners threads. Everyone seems to have problems with cable boxes and HDMI. It's hard not to think that the cable boxes are the problem, but if you have Comcast, for example, you are sort of stuck with whatever they make you use (TiVo and CableCard solutions aside).

Personally, I don't have a cable box - I unplugged years ago and never looked back