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New Home Theater Speaker Build - Page 3

post #61 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathu126 View Post

So WinISD told me I needed to tune it to 20hz and the box should be about 4 cu ft. So, here are the specs of the box:
21" cube- 19.5" internal dimensions
2 round ports at 3" and 21.54" long

How deep will the box be, and specifically how much space between the rear of the ports and the read of the cabinet?

I seem to recall to rule of thumb is that the space between the rear of the port and the read of the cabinet should be at least the same as the diameter of the port, so you would want at least 3" between the rear of the port and the rear of the cabinet.
post #62 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathu126 View Post

This would be without the final brace that is up front near the driver. I'm looking for ideas on the shape of this last brace if anyone input.

With a double thick baffle you will not need a brace on the front baffle. I would simply go with what you have drawn.

BTW - what amp are you using again?
post #63 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

How deep will the box be, and specifically how much space between the rear of the ports and the read of the cabinet?
Thanks for the reply BeerParty. You are correct. My box will not be deep enough to put the 21.5" port straight back. I am thinking that I will put a 90" turn up in it just past the second brace. It would have to go about 3 to 4" up.
post #64 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

With a double thick baffle you will not need a brace on the front baffle. I would simply go with what you have drawn.
That's good to know. That makes me feel better. Didn't want to have to put another one there. And, I won't have to calculate the volume of another brace.
Quote:
BTW - what amp are you using again?
It has been recommended that i use the Crown XLS1000 or the Behringer Inuke 1000 with fan mod. I am not familiar with amps and have no idea at this point what to use. Do most of these kind of amps have the ability to apply a high pass filter? Could you use a car amp and adapt it to AC? Lot's of questions I have about this project.
post #65 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathu126 View Post

It has been recommended that i use the Crown XLS1000 or the Behringer Inuke 1000 with fan mod. I am not familiar with amps and have no idea at this point what to use. Do most of these kind of amps have the ability to apply a high pass filter?

Since you a porting your sub, you will want some sort of high pass (HP) filter to protect the driver from frequencies below tuning. You have two options, buy an amp with a high pass filter or buy an amp and another item to provide the HP filter. You'll get proponents from both sides, but realistically the choice comes down to do you want two boxes or one?

For example, the Behringer Inuke NU1000 you mentioned does not have a high pass filter, so you would need to buy another component to do the filtering. The Behringer Inuke NU1000DSP has built in DSP, which means that it has a configurable HP filter, equalization, and other stuff. The DSP is a 'one box' solution, but it also costs about ~$100 more. You could likely get a separate box for ~$100 (the Behringer BFD comes to mind) to go with the NU1000 to provide the same features.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathu126 View Post

Lot's of questions I have about this project.

You are in the right place, ask away! biggrin.gif
post #66 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

Since you a porting your sub, you will want some sort of high pass (HP) filter to protect the driver from frequencies below tuning. You have two options, buy an amp with a high pass filter or buy an amp and another item to provide the HP filter. You'll get proponents from both sides, but realistically the choice comes down to do you want two boxes or one?
For example, the Behringer Inuke NU1000 you mentioned does not have a high pass filter, so you would need to buy another component to do the filtering. The Behringer Inuke NU1000DSP has built in DSP, which means that it has a configurable HP filter, equalization, and other stuff. The DSP is a 'one box' solution, but it also costs about ~$100 more. You could likely get a separate box for ~$100 (the Behringer BFD comes to mind) to go with the NU1000 to provide the same features.
You are in the right place, ask away! biggrin.gif

Hey, thanks for the information. I was in a guitar shop today and talking to the owner, he seemed to be very high on Crown amps for their warranties and their reputation for being some of the best amps. So, investigating them more, everywhere I look, the reviews are almost always perfect for the XLS1000. I think this may be the one for me. Since this is my first experience with subs/ amps, I will need some help with the hook up/ wiring/ etc..
So, on the back of my receiver (Denon AVR1912), I have a single output (pre out). I currently have a Polk 10" sub in my living room that I run just an rca cable to from the receiver with a y adapter. So, if I use this amp, what type of cable would I use from the receiver to the amp? Also, I wired the room with 14 gauge wire. Would this be sufficient from the amp to the two subs? Also, the drivers can be wired at 2 ohm or 8 ohm. I need 300W so how do I wire them? If I wire them both at 8 ohms and bridge the amp, would that be considered 300W at 4 ohms? Sorry for the obvious ignorance here but it's something that I need to figure out now.

Thanks.
post #67 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathu126 View Post

So, if I use this amp, what type of cable would I use from the receiver to the amp? Also, I wired the room with 14 gauge wire. Would this be sufficient from the amp to the two subs? Also, the drivers can be wired at 2 ohm or 8 ohm. I need 300W so how do I wire them? If I wire them both at 8 ohms and bridge the amp, would that be considered 300W at 4 ohms? Sorry for the obvious ignorance here but it's something that I need to figure out now.
Thanks.

The Crown amp has rca inputs, so use the same cable that currently goes to your existing sub. If you want to use both channels of the amp just get a Y adapter to split the signal. 14g wire should be fine unless you have really long runs (>50ft) going to the subs.

Regarding speaker wiring, go here and select the option that fits your need.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fyGQlndCxSv/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html
post #68 of 105
Thanks for sharing your build. Have you had an opportunity to compare the Stentorians to any of the Polk RTiA series?
post #69 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayHRC51 View Post

The Crown amp has rca inputs, so use the same cable that currently goes to your existing sub. If you want to use both channels of the amp just get a Y adapter to split the signal.

Acutally if he gets the crown XLS1000 he won't need a Y-Adapter as the crown has a setting in it called Y-Mode which duplicates the input on input 1 and sends it to input 2. I have a Crown XLS2500 but haven't had the need to use it yet but do know that it's there.
post #70 of 105
Thread Starter 
Hello everyone, sorry for the long delay in my build. I have been working on my basement (wiring, plumbing, sheetrock, etc....). I am now to the point that I am ready to start painting so I have to get all of my speakers ready as well. So, just so recap, I am building 3 Stentorians (already built and in this thread) for my front L/R/C speakers that will be placed behind an AT screen in my HT. For the rear and rear surrounds, I am building 4 Sten II's (now complete with the build- see following pictures). I am also building 2 subs from the Infinity Reference 1262W's. I designed the boxes using WinISD Pro and drew it up in Google Sketchup (all earlier in this thread).

I've already posted the Stentorian part of the build earlier so I'll start with the Sten II's here. I did not take that many pictures unfortunately but here they are:

The typical wood stack- for 4 Sten II's:


The glue up and clamping:



Sorry, as mentioned, I forgot to take alot of pics of the Stenn II build so here is the finished product (minus paint):


The inside with the braces/ crossover mounting pads:


The back with the vent hole and hole for the terminal cup:


All 4 Sten II's:



Ok, and now for the subs. I did go ahead and purchase the Crown XLS 1000 to power the 2 subs. We can get into that later when I am ready to put them together and power them up. For now, let's get to the build. I have got 1 of them to the point of clamping the front baffle (done today). I'll show pics to this point.

Cut list and once again, wood pile:



Brace (I made 2 of these per sub):


Front panel marked up for driver hole and port:


Glued up left side panel, back panel and port. Also, painted the inside of the port black:


The 2 braces installed and glued. I messed up and cut them too small so you can see the makeshift shims I used to fill the gap to the right side panel:


The front panel glued up:


And the front baffle glued and clamped up:



So, that's my progress right now. I will be working to get the other sub to this point the next couple days. Then I need to do some roundovers on all speakers. I am looking for ideas here on what size roundover to use.

Passing Interest, if you read this, I would like to know what size roundover you used on your Stentorian build? I know you used a small bearing to get the cool cut line but not sure what size bit you used. Someone said on your thread that it was a 1/2" but it looked like a much bigger one than that.

After rounding over the edges on all speakers, I will be heading to paint. I am still looking for good ideas on paint. My plan is to use the same primer as I am using on my walls in the basement (I'll spray with my Graco sprayer). Is this a good idea? Has anyone used this type of primer on speakers? Need some advice here. Then I need some more ideas on paint. I want to do black on all of them. Not a piano finish but not a dull finish either. And not a textured paint like bed liner or Duratex.

That's it for now. Matt.
post #71 of 105
having lived with them for a while, how do you think the Stents compare to those onkyos you were originally looking at? :P
post #72 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eternal Velocity View Post

having lived with them for a while, how do you think the Stents compare to those onkyos you were originally looking at? :P

So far, I am impressed. I just took them apart and am getting them ready for prime/ paint. I still think they should have a bit more mid/ high range to them. Maybe it's the fact that I had them in my living room and didn't get them set up that well. I'll find out more once I get them in the theater, run some measurements, etc.. I guess if I'm not happy then, I could always look at making some changes to the drivers (maybe different tweeters). Not sure right now. I definitely don't want to discount them without having them completely finished (including paint) and set up with the rest of the system.

Thanks.
post #73 of 105
Mathu126- if I were you, I would purchase some sort of EQ devise for your main LCR's, as I believe that with the proper EQ, they will sound much better. I would assume that with some EQ, you could bump up the mids and high frequencys to better suit your taste. Good thread!
post #74 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Mathu126- if I were you, I would purchase some sort of EQ devise for your main LCR's, as I believe that with the proper EQ, they will sound much better. I would assume that with some EQ, you could bump up the mids and high frequencys to better suit your taste. Good thread!

Thanks Marty. I have a Denon AVR 1912 that I will be using for the system. It has the Audyssey MultEQ. I ran it when I put the speakers in my living room but it just didn't turn out that great. Of course, as I mentioned earlier in the thread, there were lots of sounds in the house and other factors so I definitely don't want to use that as my benchmark. Should I use additional EQ on the mains, center and surrounds? Also, I will power the subs with the Crown XLS 1000. Should I buy some EQ for them as well?

Thanks
post #75 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathu126 View Post

Thanks Marty. I have a Denon AVR 1912 that I will be using for the system. It has the Audyssey MultEQ. I ran it when I put the speakers in my living room but it just didn't turn out that great. Of course, as I mentioned earlier in the thread, there were lots of sounds in the house and other factors so I definitely don't want to use that as my benchmark. Should I use additional EQ on the mains, center and surrounds? Also, I will power the subs with the Crown XLS 1000. Should I buy some EQ for them as well?
Thanks



If I were you, I would just get a MiniDsp for the sub and LCR mains. That would be a great way to EQ, and should bring up the SQ by quite a bit. I am no expect on EQ'ing but I do know, based on personal experience, that EQ'ing a sub(s) makes a fairly large difference, as should EQ'ing your LCR's.
post #76 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

If I were you, I would just get a MiniDsp for the sub and LCR mains. That would be a great way to EQ, and should bring up the SQ by quite a bit. I am no expect on EQ'ing but I do know, based on personal experience, that EQ'ing a sub(s) makes a fairly large difference, as should EQ'ing your LCR's.

Thanks Marty. I guess that means that my AVR with MultiEQ would not be the best choice. Can you tell me what version of MiniDSP I would need? I was looking on the MiniDSP site and there are several options. Not sure which one I would need and really how it works/ how I would hook it up with my system.
post #77 of 105
Thread Starter 
Ok, I am almost ready to put some primer on all these speakers. Got the 1/2" roundover on everything and it looks pretty good. I did it on all sides of the subs and only the front left and right sides of the mains and surrounds. Here are the subs with roundovers and 1 coat of wood putty and sanding.


Now I'll just have to do another round or two of puttying and sanding. I'm going to try to primer them this weekend. Then, I just need to figure out what I'm going to paint with. Anyway, once I get them all puttied and sanded, I'll show a pic of all 9 before primer/ paint.
post #78 of 105
Mathu126- what kind of wood are you using?
post #79 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Mathu126- what kind of wood are you using?

Martycool007, I am using Baltic Birch for the two subs. Of course, the rest are MDF. I got both subs sanded a ready for primer tonight. All that's left is sanding the 3 Stentorians. Hope to have them ready tomorrow night. I've got a bit of sanding left to do on my sheetrock and hopefully will be ready by Saturday to have a primer party.

I asked earlier but didn't get a response. From any of you speaker finishing experts, is it ok for me to primer the speakers with the same primer that I am using on my sheetrock? Also still looking for a good idea on paint. Thanks.
post #80 of 105
Thread Starter 
Here they are. All 9 cabinets ready for primer/ paint.


Plan on applying primer this Saturday.
post #81 of 105
I've always enjoyed a picture of a bare cabinet. Those look great! Keep up the good work.
post #82 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by deewan View Post

I've always enjoyed a picture of a bare cabinet. Those look great! Keep up the good work.

Thanks alot deewan. I am really looking forward to getting them painted, installed and hooked up as a system in the theater. Maybe another 4 to 6 weeks probably to have it all complete. Well, at least I can sit and look at the completed speakers while the rest gets finished.
post #83 of 105
Just read through most of this thread. Really great write up and even better build. Can't wait to see them all painted up and finished. I just got my room somewhat finished. I went with the sealed Aviatrix from Curt as well. They sound awesome. I've considered building the stentorians also. Any chance you're located near DFW TX? I'd love to hear these speakers.
post #84 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patzig View Post

Just read through most of this thread. Really great write up and even better build. Can't wait to see them all painted up and finished. I just got my room somewhat finished. I went with the sealed Aviatrix from Curt as well. They sound awesome. I've considered building the stentorians also. Any chance you're located near DFW TX? I'd love to hear these speakers.

Thanks for the compliments Patzig. I am not in Texas. I actually live in Alabama. I've been impressed so far with the Stentorians. As mentioned in earlier posts, I am not really sure at this point how to set them up correctly but I'll do this once they're in place. I got all the equipment to do REW. I'll have to learn how to do it. I think all the speakers and subs are going to sound really good. I'll post all the measurements at that time.
post #85 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

You have done such a fabulous job on the build I wouldn't take short cuts on the finish. MDF cut edges soak up paint like a sponge. I don't believe the drywall primer has enough solids to adequately seal the edge. Google MDF edge priming and you will come up with several solutions. One cheap solution is here, though I haven't tried it myself.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4698442_seal-mdf-edges-painting.html

Thanks DavidK442. I have thought alot about "sealing" the edges on the MDF. I have sanded them with 400 grit sandpaper and they are very smooth at this point. I was hoping getting them extra smooth would help. Maybe they will still soak up alot of primer/ paint. I ended up buying some Sherwan Williams oil based primer and paint to do the finishing. I did check out the link you posted. This is a good idea. I'm thinking I can just mix my Tightbond II with water and apply to the edges.
post #86 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathu126 View Post

Here they are. All 9 cabinets ready for primer/ paint.

Plan on applying primer this Saturday.

Great family shot.
post #87 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathu126 View Post

I'm thinking I can just mix my Tightbond II with water and apply to the edges.

That's what I did, about 2 parts water to 1 part Titebond, worked great.
post #88 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

That's what I did, about 2 parts water to 1 part Titebond, worked great.

Thanks Brad. I think I'll try that. By the way, did you ever get your theater completed? I'm about ready to build my false wall you inspired me to go with. Just got to get the walls painted and then I'll build it. Trying to figure out if I want to build the false wall before flooring or do it afterwards kinda as a "temporary" type wall that I can take out if needed later on. I plan to make the structure out of 2x4's and then use velvet covered panels to fill it all in.
post #89 of 105
What is this "finished" you speak of? tongue.gif

I actually never put a "tada, finished" in my build thread, because it seems there were always more things to do - maybe I should at least put a "95% finished, the last 5% will have to wait until I'm done watching movies" stamp in it though, and add some final(ish) photos.
post #90 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

What is this "finished" you speak of? tongue.gif

I actually never put a "tada, finished" in my build thread, because it seems there were always more things to do - maybe I should at least put a "95% finished, the last 5% will have to wait until I'm done watching movies" stamp in it though, and add some final(ish) photos.

Cool. That would be good. By the way, I just realized under your avatar that you live in Torrance. I've been there several times for work. Usually stay there at the Doubletree. I like it out there. Just couldn't afford to live there.
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