RobZ's Cozy Theater Room - Page 2

One thing that drives me crazy is the mess these guys leave!

I was going to opt for tray ceilings with rope lighting, etc. However, this room may eventually convert to a different use (if I build a detached theater). We opted for four cans divided by wood beams to continue with the theme of the home.

The further we move into the build the more I wish I went with a detached area for the theater, game room, and gym. Then every time I consider it I think of two things: property taxes (3.3% here) and the possibility of losing the mortgage interest deduction. I'll post some pics of the exterior as soon as they clean up some of the storage, etc. in front.

Today the uninsulated wallsof the room (screenwall, entry wall) will be stuffed with R13.

Here's the color scheme I'm considering:

I'll be using a combination of Ralph Lauren Suede, Suede acoustic panels, and stained wood (beams and riser trim).

I'll only be using one sconce in the middle of the room on the column. Here's the light (already purchased)

21 in high by 11 wide

...
Edited by RobZ - 10/19/12 at 10:19pm

Also ordered some of the plates, plugs, etc for the room.


(7) black Leviton single gang plate covers (blank): will drill and use for surround speaker cables, cover unused Cat5e and RGG.
(5) black Datacomm low voltage plates: front speaker cables and all three sub cables, HDMI & Cat6 on ceiling to projector
(11)black Leviton T5320-E 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Tamper Resistant, Duplex Receptacle, Residential Grade, Grounding
(11) black Leviton 1 gang wall plates
(1) black Lutron MIR-600T-BL Maestro Preset Smart Dimmer: for canned lights (4) (IR remote control)
(1) black Lutron MAW-600H-BL Maestro 600 Watt Single-Pole Dimmer: for wall sconce and rope lights (not remote controlled)
(1) black Lutron CW-2-BL Claro 2-Gang Wallplate for the two dimmers


Also ordered a bunch of Lutron Maestro occupancy sensors for the home's closets, pantry, and laundry

R13 finishing off the room insulation







Whole house Cat5e & RG6, approx. 15 or so runs each



Edited by RobZ - 10/10/12 at 8:17pm

My wife didnt find it amusing though everyone laughs that my theater room and closet are smaller than everything else in the home. oh well.....

Green Glue tubes and 5/8" drywall (Lowes) come in today. I'm going with 1/2" and then 5/8" on top for the walls and ceilings. Do I need to tape n float the first layer or maybe caulk with silicone, GG sealant, etc? Maybe something I can find locally (Lowes, HD, etc)?
Edited by RobZ - 10/23/12 at 10:29am

"You do not have to tape/mud or caulk the first layer of drywall. Just make sure that the second layer overlaps the joints of the first layer. As long as the joints don't line up between layers you will be fine. And the joint between the ceiling and walls should be stair stepped. What I mean is first layer on ceiling, first layer on walls, second layer on ceiling, second layer on walls."

Great thanks.

Was gonna order the Love Bagina..........





Here's a drawing of the home. Since this there have been a few cosmetic changes including all dark mahogany windows, dark trim and corbels, and a taller front door.




One of the two front doors was just finished (except for the finish). These are 11 ft tall handmade with swing-open wrought iron grills to allow for glass cleaning. The guy that made these is also going to make the 3ft x 8ft solid wood door for the theater entry.


Edited by RobZ - 10/12/12 at 12:53pm

So...moving away from the subject of Baginas and sacs, our recesses lights are already mounted and I hadn't accounted for the double 1/2". Will I need to move these or does the coil spring retention mechanism that holds the cover usually have enough play to accomodate the added thickness (1/2 to 2/3" extra)?
Edited by RobZ - 10/12/12 at 11:10am

Thanks.



Received an Amazon box of goodies today.

Also received four cases of Green Glue. Thanks again Ted (SoundProofingCompany.com).

Went by the house this evening to inspect the drywall. About 15-20 guys drywalled the whole house (half of the areas as high as 20-25 ft) in less than four days. Theyre 95% done. So far there have been minimal issues with the exception of a few errors (including a covered can light). Only AV casualty was a 10ft monoprice HDMI in my daughters room had its head severed. Thankfully I have more than 500-600 photos of the guts so I should have no issue fishing in a new cable.


Walking through the home:

"Wow look at the size of that closet!"
"Wow look at that shower"
"Aww, thats gonna be a cute little TV room"

I'm trying to decide on my projector combo. Throw limitations, viewing distance, format, etc. are all factoring in to the decision.


Option 1:
Keep my low hour calibrated RS20 and opt for a masked Monoprice 120in 1.78:1. The RS20's throw will limit me to less than 110" wide.
Pros: minimal cost, already have mount plate, great contrast ratio
Cons: limited screen size, no lens zoom memory, no 3D


Option 2:
Panasonic AE8000u & a 128in Carada 2.35:1. Shorter 1.35:1 throw will barely let me squeez this screen into the room. 117in wide, allows for a 103in 1.78:1 image
Pros: brighter, more flexibility with lens memory, big scope image, 3D
Cons: increased cost even after selling RS20, native CR doesnt approach the RS20, no sealed optics, not a JVC

I'm thinking the same. Gut feeling that I'd miss the deep blacks of the RS20 more than I'd appreciate the additional screen size. Its too bad Epson didnt implement the lens features of the Panny. Its short throw would have been an option. Unfortunately manual controls would rule it out as my seating row will be wall to wall not allowing for me to easily get behind to dial in the zoom. Another option I've been looking at is the mirror trick using the RS20 but that seems like a short term fix.

The riser will likely be 6 1/2 to 7 feet, which will allow enough room to bring the seating forward placing the viewing distance at around 12 ft. Hopefully the 104in wide screen doesnt feel too small.
Edited by RobZ - 10/14/12 at 9:58am

Thanks. I'm closer to Bjorns than you are.