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Good Lamps Won't Light

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
Got a friend with a Mits DLP, WD-62525, his pic went out while watching it. Lamp LED came on, error code is 'lamp abnormality'. Tried two new bulbs, still won't turn on. I have verified that at least one of his lamps is good. Any suspects? I'm guessing the ballast, assuming the ballast is also what keeps the lamp on. There are no diag codes for ballast malfunction, so hard to tell. I plan to try the lamp that went bad while he was watching, to see if it's good. I think a bad color wheel also leads to the same error code, does it not? TIA for any thoughts and ideas.
post #2 of 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by garciab View Post

Got a friend with a Mits DLP, WD-62525, his pic went out while watching it. Lamp LED came on, error code is 'lamp abnormality'. Tried two new bulbs, still won't turn on. I have verified that at least one of his lamps is good. Any suspects? I'm guessing the ballast, assuming the ballast is also what keeps the lamp on. There are no diag codes for ballast malfunction, so hard to tell. I plan to try the lamp that went bad while he was watching, to see if it's good. I think a bad color wheel also leads to the same error code, does it not? TIA for any thoughts and ideas.

Are they OEM lamps? Many people have had trouble with aftermarket sellers. Also, did he swap out the lamp cartridge as well?

Also to which error code are you referring? Which LEDs are on or blinking?
Edited by Augerhandle - 7/17/12 at 8:12pm
post #3 of 5
Thread Starter 
The replacement lamps are Osram, just like the original. With this tv, it's and easy swap of the bulb into the housing. When the tv fails to power up, there's is a button sequence to press that will reveal a diag code. In this case, I believe the code is 34. But that's just 'lamp abnormality', which can be anything that leads to the lamp not lighting.

I tried the lamp that shut off on him while he was watching tv. And it works fine in my tv (I have a spare I picked up on CL years ago and rebuilt the chassis). So I have no idea what can fail during tv watching and cause the tv to shut off. I'm suspecting the ballast or something in the power supply. He will try a ballast from shopjimmy....after that he's giving up on it.

I hope it's not the color wheel, and that's potentially the item most under stress during operation. I don't know what code the tv gives when the color wheel is shot and it fails to power on. I'll ask him to look for pieces of it when he removes the covers for the ballast replacement.
post #4 of 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by garciab View Post

The replacement lamps are Osram, just like the original. With this tv, it's and easy swap of the bulb into the housing. When the tv fails to power up, there's is a button sequence to press that will reveal a diag code. In this case, I believe the code is 34. But that's just 'lamp abnormality', which can be anything that leads to the lamp not lighting.

I tried the lamp that shut off on him while he was watching tv. And it works fine in my tv (I have a spare I picked up on CL years ago and rebuilt the chassis). So I have no idea what can fail during tv watching and cause the tv to shut off. I'm suspecting the ballast or something in the power supply. He will try a ballast from shopjimmy....after that he's giving up on it.

I hope it's not the color wheel, and that's potentially the item most under stress during operation. I don't know what code the tv gives when the color wheel is shot and it fails to power on. I'll ask him to look for pieces of it when he removes the covers for the ballast replacement.

I've only heard of color wheel problems with Samsungs.

From page 16 of the service manual http://www.scribd.com/doc/40256222/Mitsubishi-WD-62725
Quote:
III. Lamp Troubleshooting Procedure

If a Lamp Abnormality is indicated and a replacement Lamp Cartridge does not correct the problem, the problem can be due to either the Lamp Ballast or the Electrical Chassis.

•Connect a DVM across pins 1 and 3 of connector CN2 on the Lamp Ballast (See Page 9).
•When the set is first powered On, check for 340 VDC.
•If voltage is good, suspect the Lamp Ballast
•If the voltage is bad, suspect the POWER PWB in the Electrical Chassis

Note that they mention the lamp cartridge being replaced before moving on to the ballast, not just the lamp. Don't get ahead of yourself when troubleshooting.
post #5 of 5
Thread Starter 
Thanks, that's very helpful. I hadn't looked through the sm myself, was just going to send him a copy.

The 52725 that I got from CL did have a shattered wheel, which I know is rare for these sets. I just never checked the failure code on it before I repaired it. I asked him to check for pieces of wheel in the set before attempting the ballast replacement. Now I can point him to your helpful tips as well.
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