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Replacing HDMI Capacitors on Onkyo 605

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
I found a video on how to change some 100uf 4v capacitors on an Onkyo 606 to solve the exact problem I'm having. The symptoms were: green/colored bars flashing across the bottom half of the screen for the first 10+ minutes after truning everything on. When I changed projectors, I had no picture at all until the AVR "warmed up" for 10 minutes or more. Now, I get nothing, period, which is why I'm at this point.

The video is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gj0x5S9ez5U

The problem is, I have a 605 which only has 2 HDMI inputs, not 5. I have no idea which capacitors to replace on this board. I'll probably go ahead and change all the 100uf caps (about 9) since they're cheap, but this could take a while since they're tinny fiddly things. Does anyone know the schematics of these two models and which ones were replaced in the video and which ones should be replaced on the 605 board? I'll post back with the results of my major surgery.
post #2 of 11
general rule of thumb about replacing caps, dont do 1, do all of them. The last thing you need is for a different cap to blow, requiring you to disconnect everything, reopen and re-solder.
post #3 of 11
Here's another tip...replace them with highest temperature and voltage rating that will fit. Once you figure out the physical size (footprint), find a replacement with these upgraded specs. Two things affect cap life...charge voltage and ambient temperature.
post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 
well, these are all surface mount caps and there appears to be lots of room around the board (top and bottom). how big should/could I go without being stupid?
post #5 of 11
I followed that video to repair my HT-R960, and it worked just fine. I bought the capacitors at Radio Shack.

100uf 35v electrolytic capacitors from Radio Shack (P/N 272-1028) for $1.29
post #6 of 11
make sure they are rated for 105 degrees c... the radio shack ones are 85 degrees, same as the OEM. Otherwise you will repeating the process down the road... Get the right parts and do it only once.
post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
I picked up some 100uf 50v from a local electronics shop for .65 each. Rated for 105 C. Fingers crossed!
post #8 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon S View Post

make sure they are rated for 105 degrees c... the radio shack ones are 85 degrees, same as the OEM. Otherwise you will repeating the process down the road... Get the right parts and do it only once.

It's rated to -40 to +85 Celsius, which is equivalent to 185 Fahrenheit. I haven't had any issues since I did the replacement almost 1 year ago. If it happens again, I will have an excellent excuse to get a new one biggrin.gif
post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
Failure. frown.gif way too impatient and rammy for this delicate work. The first one I tried to remove ended tearing the board. Nothing to solder to = busted ass sh!t. Guess I'm buying a new receiver.
post #10 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevonS View Post

Failure. frown.gif way too impatient and rammy for this delicate work. The first one I tried to remove ended tearing the board. Nothing to solder to = busted ass sh!t. Guess I'm buying a new receiver.

Well, at least you can buy a better AVR. It only took me 10 min. to do this, but then again I've done things like this before so it helped.
post #11 of 11

Worked. Replaced all 10 on mine with Mouser 10V 100uf (Mouser P/N 661-PSA10VB100M) and all works again.

 

THANKS TO ALL !!!!

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