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LG HW350T - problems already

post #1 of 20
7/18/12 at 8:12pm
Thread Starter 
Minutes out of the box and there are already problems.

The LED Mode setting is all screwed up. After switching between NORMAL, ECONOMY, and/or PRESENTATION. the HW350T does what it wants.

Example:

1. You start out in ECONOMY. Kill-A-Watt indicates a power consumption around 50W
2. Switch to NORMAL, picture gets brighter, power consumption jumps to 67W.
3. Few seconds later, without changing anything, brightness goes back down, and power consumption goes back to 50W - eventhough the menu shows it's set to NORMAL.
4. Select PRESENTATION, picture gets brighter, power consumption jumps into the 80W range.
5. Few seconds later, and without changing anything, brightness goes back down, power consumption goes back to 50W - eventhough the menu shows projector is still in PRESENTATION mode.

Now, things get even more frustrating - the HW350T stops responding to the remote control. First time it happened I thought maybe the supplied batteries where bad, so I tried some different ones - no joy.

So, now the HW350T has to be shut off via the power button on the projector itself.

After a restart the projector fan goes into hair dryer mode - it's not until the fan speed reduces that the remote control starts working again.

Then, all the above steps are reproducible.

Here is a YouTube video of whats going on. Projected small image over and around my Kill-A-Watt:

http://youtu.be/k4T1BEiIBzU
Edited by danceswithgeckos - 7/18/12 at 10:06pm
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post #2 of 20
7/18/12 at 9:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by danceswithgeckos View Post

Minutes out of the box and there are already problems.
The LED Mode setting is all screwed up. After switching between NORMAL, ECONOMY, and/or PRESENTATION. the HW350T does what it wants.
Example:
1. You start out in ECONOMY. Kill-A-Watt indicates a power consumption around 50W
2. Switch to NORMAL, picture gets brighter, power consumption jumps to 67W.
3. Few seconds later, and with no user input, brightness goes back down, and power consumption goes back to 50W - eventhough the menu shows it's set to NORMAL.
4. Select PRESENTATION, picture gets brighter, power consumption jumps into the 80W range.
5. Few seconds later, and with no user input, brightness goes back down, power consumption goes back to 50W - eventhough the menu shows projector is still in PRESENTATION mode.
Now, things get even more frustrating - the HW350T stops responding to the remote control. First time it happened I thought maybe the supplied batteries where bad, so I tried some different ones - no joy.
So, now the HW350T has to be shut off via the power button on the projector itself.
After a restart the projector fan goes into hair dryer mode - it's not until the fan speed reduces that the remote control starts working again.
Then, all the above steps are reproducible.
Here is a YouTube video of whats going on. Projected small image over and around my Kill-A-Watt:
http://youtu.be/k4T1BEiIBzU

Please tell me that at some point you tested the projector as it is designed to be used: with an input signal. If you did then did you get the same results?
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post #3 of 20
7/18/12 at 10:00pm
Thread Starter 
Yes, same problem with an actual video signal.
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post #4 of 20
7/18/12 at 10:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by danceswithgeckos View Post

Yes, same problem with an actual video signal.

So if I understand you then the HW350T will not change output modes that is it appears to change them but does not actually change the output brightness (except temporarily), is that correct?
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post #5 of 20
7/18/12 at 10:26pm
Thread Starter 
When you go from ECONOMY mode to NORMAL or PRESENTATION the image will get brighter for a few seconds, but it won't stick - after few seconds the increased brightness of those modes reset to what looks like ECONOMY mode. This happens by itself. After that the HW350T won't respond to the remote control any longer.
It has to be shut down with the power button on the projector. The remote aslo won't turn the projector back on again after that happens - that can only be accomplished with the power button on the projector. Then the fan gets noisey at startup, after it settles down the remote starts working again until you go through the same sequence of steps.

A few seconds after NORMAL mode is selected you can see the brightness drop (at the 1 minute 41 seconds mark in the video)

A few seconds after PRESENTATION mode is selected you can see the brightness drop (at the 2 minute 7 seconds mark in the video)
Edited by danceswithgeckos - 7/18/12 at 10:44pm
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post #6 of 20
7/18/12 at 11:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by danceswithgeckos View Post

When you go from ECONOMY mode to NORMAL or PRESENTATION the image will get brighter for a few seconds, but it won't stick - after few seconds the increased brightness of those modes reset to what looks like ECONOMY mode. This happens by itself. After that the HW350T won't respond to the remote control any longer.
It has to be shut down with the power button on the projector. The remote aslo won't turn the projector back on again after that happens - that can only be accomplished with the power button on the projector. Then the fan gets noisey at startup, after it settles down the remote starts working again until you go through the same sequence of steps.
A few seconds after NORMAL mode is selected you can see the brightness drop (at the 1 minute 41 seconds mark in the video)
A few seconds after PRESENTATION mode is selected you can see the brightness drop (at the 2 minute 7 seconds mark in the video)

Did you post two videos because the one without an input signal is NOT very helpful? I would expect the signal to drop back (to its lowest level) without an input signal to conserve power and intelligently manage resources.
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post #7 of 20
7/18/12 at 11:36pm
Thread Starter 
No, I only did the one video. I understand what your saying and makes sense for the unit to drop back for the purpose of power saving. The strange thing is that it starts to ignore the remote control when doing so. I just checked my HS201 (2009 model) - I guess it's not smart enough and won't drop to the lowest setting even when there is no input signal.

I just moved the HW350T to another room so I can hook up the tv tuner. I wonder if it got stuck in some kind of self diagnostic loop at startup, because right now with the tv tuner as the signal source it's not producing the above described behavior.

Maybe being unplugged for a while reset something.

Thanks for your help.
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post #8 of 20
7/19/12 at 12:22am
Thread Starter 
Just checked HDMI signal from my lenovo thinkpad. When the HW350T's fan starts rev up it will no longer respond to the remote control.
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post #9 of 20
7/19/12 at 2:15am
Thread Starter 
I'm done with this thing. It's going back.
Maybe I received a defective unit and it's an isolated case.

If it's a more widespread issue: BUYER BEWARE - the one I received has a manufactured date of June 2012.
Edited by danceswithgeckos - 7/19/12 at 2:36am
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post #10 of 20
7/19/12 at 9:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by danceswithgeckos View Post

I'm done with this thing. It's going back.
Maybe I received a defective unit and it's an isolated case.
If it's a more widespread issue: BUYER BEWARE - the one I received has a manufactured date of June 2012.

So far you have given me more questions than answers before I could for me to make reach any negative conclusions about the HW350T.

1. You said that you tested video. Okay, but then you said that you have not connected the tuner and just connected the HDMI to your laptop. So what was the video source you used?

2. If it is still available then did you use the controls on the unit to see if the brightness mode changed?

3. Did you check the controls on the unit to see if they work in the control without any source?

4. Did you try "fresh" batteries (not just different ones) in your remote control?

5. What was the video material you used when you tested it with kill o watt to check the power consumption (I guess)? I would be interested in the power usage on bright scenes on full panel (1280x800) mode in a cool room.

My HW300Ts act like your HW350T when I select the LED power mode and I have "NO SIGNAL".
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post #11 of 20
7/19/12 at 10:32am
The fan in my unit does rev up on high like a hairdryer when it first start up, and it is responding fine with the remote (tried to navigate the menu, going to NetCast....) before it slows down.

Your case can be an isolated one, as LG does have inconsistency with their quality control process. Totally understand your frustration. I even have to go through about 6 different HW300T and HW350T to pick out one that has the least issue...rolleyes.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by danceswithgeckos View Post

Just checked HDMI signal from my lenovo thinkpad. When the HW350T's fan starts rev up it will no longer respond to the remote control.
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post #12 of 20
7/19/12 at 12:47pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by obscuro View Post

So far you have given me more questions than answers before I could for me to make reach any negative conclusions about the HW350T.
1. You said that you tested video. Okay, but then you said that you have not connected the tuner and just connected the HDMI to your laptop. So what was the video source you used?
2. If it is still available then did you use the controls on the unit to see if the brightness mode changed?
3. Did you check the controls on the unit to see if they work in the control without any source?
4. Did you try "fresh" batteries (not just different ones) in your remote control?
5. What was the video material you used when you tested it with kill o watt to check the power consumption (I guess)? I would be interested in the power usage on bright scenes on full panel (1280x800) mode in a cool room.
My HW300Ts act like your HW350T when I select the LED power mode and I have "NO SIGNAL".

1. First videos I tested where movies from a usb thumb drive, then I did the tv tuner and HDMI .
2. The controls on top of the HW350T are not the issue - they work..
3. The controls on the HW350T work with or without a video source present.
4. Of course the different batteries where fresh - a pair of freshly charged and tested Eneloops.
5..The LED power mode behavior with signal/ no signal is not the issue - it's the HW350T failing to respond to the remote control until a complete restart.. Imagine you had a car with an energy saving feature, and everytime that feature kicked in your steering stopped working - and to get it working again the car needs to be restarted.
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post #13 of 20
7/19/12 at 5:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by danceswithgeckos View Post

1. First videos I tested where movies from a usb thumb drive, then I did the tv tuner and HDMI .
2. The controls on top of the HW350T are not the issue - they work..
3. The controls on the HW350T work with or without a video source present.
4. Of course the different batteries where fresh - a pair of freshly charged and tested Eneloops.
5..The LED power mode behavior with signal/ no signal is not the issue - it's the HW350T failing to respond to the remote control until a complete restart.. Imagine you had a car with an energy saving feature, and everytime that feature kicked in your steering stopped working - and to get it working again the car needs to be restarted.

1. You are asking the reader to judge information not presented: the first videos YOU SAW. Posting those videos could help others see the problems in the LED power output!

4. Please try a pair of fresh 1.5v batteries like the ones supplied (at least with my HW300T). I believe the batteries you are trying to use are not supplied with the HW350T. I think they are 1.2v. If so you MAY NOT be properly powering the remote.
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post #14 of 20
7/19/12 at 5:34pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenshin2b View Post

The fan in my unit does rev up on high like a hairdryer when it first start up, and it is responding fine with the remote (tried to navigate the menu, going to NetCast....) before it slows down.
Your case can be an isolated one, as LG does have inconsistency with their quality control process. Totally understand your frustration. I even have to go through about 6 different HW300T and HW350T to pick out one that has the least issue...rolleyes.gif

Speaking of the NetCast feature - why did LG even bother to include it? Maybe I overlooked something but there were only 6, I guess they call them services, like Vudu, weather, Facebook - no netflix, no youtube, no pandora, etc - yet LG calls the HW350T a Smart TV projector.

You're right about the inconsistent quality control. LG is the same with their repair service. When my HS201 had som discoloration in the lower right hand corner of the image, the LG repair service center was a smooth, fast, and a painless process - and that's from Hawaii. Others, on the other hand had completely different experiences with LG repairs.
Edited by danceswithgeckos - 7/19/12 at 6:01pm
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post #15 of 20
7/19/12 at 6:13pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by obscuro View Post

1. You are asking the reader to judge information not presented: the first videos YOU SAW. Posting those videos could help others see the problems in the LED power output!
4. Please try a pair of fresh 1.5v batteries like the ones supplied (at least with my HW300T). I believe the batteries you are trying to use are not supplied with the HW350T. I think they are 1.2v. If so you MAY NOT be properly powering the remote.

The batteries that were supplied with the HW350T were fine, and the Eneloops were powering the remote with no problem as well. Regardless, of what set of batteries were in the remote at the time - after changing LED mode and/or just bringing up the LED mode menu, would make the HW350T stop responding to the remote.
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post #16 of 20
7/20/12 at 9:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by danceswithgeckos View Post

The batteries that were supplied with the HW350T were fine, and the Eneloops were powering the remote with no problem as well. Regardless, of what set of batteries were in the remote at the time - after changing LED mode and/or just bringing up the LED mode menu, would make the HW350T stop responding to the remote.

Unless you use the proper batteries (2x 1.5v alkaline) you can not expect the remote to work properly.

My HW300T remotes do not have power indicators.

YOU are underpowering the remote by .6v and that is significant.

My speculation is that you are able to send a partial command stream to the projector because that is all the signal that the remote can transmit.

If you power the projector off and then use the remote you are simply repeating a flawed process. It may LOOK like the remote is working because there are batteries installed but the batteries are NOT the right kind so they do not let the remote work properly.
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post #17 of 20
7/20/12 at 12:32pm
Thread Starter 
What part of the the supplied batteries were fine do you have trouble comprehending? The supplied batteries are alkalines and your magic 1.5V.

I also use 1.2V AAA and AA Eneloops in all kinds of remote controls, xbox wireless controllers, wireless mice, wireless keyboards, etc. without problem and none send your so called "partial command stream"due to being underpowered.

You make a good apologist for LG's flawed products - enjoy them.

LG = Life's Good. Well, as long as you don't end up with one of their defective products, it might be.
Edited by danceswithgeckos - 7/20/12 at 12:54pm
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post #18 of 20
7/20/12 at 2:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by danceswithgeckos View Post

What part of the the supplied batteries were fine do you have trouble comprehending? The supplied batteries are alkalines and your magic 1.5V.
I also use 1.2V AAA and AA Eneloops in all kinds of remote controls, xbox wireless controllers, wireless mice, wireless keyboards, etc. without problem and none send your so called "partial command stream"due to being underpowered.
You make a good apologist for LG's flawed products - enjoy them.
LG = Life's Good. Well, as long as you don't end up with one of their defective products, it might be.

So I take it that YOU DID NOT INSTALL A FRESH PAIR OF ALKALINE BATTERIES. Okay, fine that is your option. It is a very basic trouble shooting step.

I have had the very problem you describe and simply replacing my rechargeable batteries with ALKALINE batteries solved the problem. (Oh, I have a LOT of remote control units so rechargeables would have been a welcomed option so now I buy bulk from Costco.)

Choosing to ASSUME that you are right without testing that assumption is not my fault. Based on the information that you have presented your logic and trouble shooting skills seem lacking because your conclusions about flaws are inconsistent with the info you present e.g. your power consumption tests.

It is possible that I do not comprehend but not probable because you refuse to try something so simple. The mere fact that you continue to mention rechargeable batteries illustrate a flaw in your reasoning.

According to your post (up to this point) the only problem is the remote. So why do offer an ad homenim attack and the claim of defective product(S)?
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post #19 of 20
7/20/12 at 3:48pm
Thread Starter 
The alkaline batteries that came with the HW350T as well as the Eneloops both worked fine Step 1 through 4 - as outlined above. After that it does't matter what type of batteries happen to be in the remote - after Step 4 the projector stops responding to the remote and that's why you can hear the repeated clicks a the end of the video with nothing happening to the on-screen menu or my attempts to shut the projector off via the remote.
Edited by danceswithgeckos - 7/20/12 at 10:01pm
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post #20 of 20
12/17/12 at 9:19am
I just got the HW350T and I am experiencing the same issue with the unit not responding to the remote. The unit responds to the remote for a few minutes then stops responding. Just like the other user, I have to manually press the power button on the projector which makes this unit useless. I have programmed other remotes and they work just like the OEM remote. They work for a few minutes then the unit stops responding to signals. I have not experimented with trying to isolate exactly when this happens, it may be when the fan goes into hyper mode.

This is really annoying. I am returning mine and getting a replacement.

Is there anyone out there with this unit who hasn't experienced this problem? I'm hoping my replacement will be issue free.
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