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Klipsch RW-12d Subwoofer - Only $299 - Save 70% - Page 6

post #151 of 656
I looked at all the drivers at Parts Express but I don't know which would work best with the Polk, BIc and Klipsch amps EQ ? Nobody as posted anything, everyone is happy with these subs( as-is ) once they set them up, The hell is in choosing which one.
As for Bic or Polk they both use foam surrounds, I think to polk is better, it has a larger port, less chance of port noise.
As don't know the amps power range 2,4 or 8 ohms, nobody posted,so most are happy with what they have..
post #152 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyqureshi View Post

So I opened my rattling box today and found a few things:
1. The box is made of 3/4 inch MDF.
2. Lots of hot glue used inside.
3. Driver magnet is not shielded.
4. There is no acoustic dampening material inside.
5. Whoever assembled this piece lacks marksmanship.
...
Hopefully, people will find this post useful.

Only thing missing was duct tape! Great photos- thanks!
post #153 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by vivatech View Post

Only thing missing was duct tape! Great photos- thanks!

Not arguing but isn't that duct tape on the left, in picture two? tongue.gif
post #154 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

What would you recommend? The least expensive drivers at Parts Express have what I consider to be very short Xmax throws. confused.gif
Any driver that I've found in 8 Ohm with a decent Xmax, individually costs more than a complete RW-12d. eek.gif

This doesn't look bad with decent xmax for $150: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-445

Now, how can we confirm if the RW-12D's amp is 4 or 8 ohm
post #155 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

What would you recommend? The least expensive drivers at Parts Express have what I consider to be very short Xmax throws. confused.gif
Any driver that I've found in 8 Ohm with a decent Xmax, individually costs more than a complete RW-12d. eek.gif


In time as these subs start to age and fail, people will post what replacement drivers work best.. So just enjoy them as- is for now !
post #156 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyqureshi View Post

This doesn't look bad with decent xmax for $150: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-445
Now, how can we confirm if the RW-12D's amp is 4 or 8 ohm

As you can easly SEE the build quality is 4x better !!
I would guess 4 ohm would work best...
post #157 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by joehonest View Post

In time as these subs start to age and fail, people will post what replacement drivers work best.. So just enjoy them as- is for now !

Thanks. Currently I'm enjoying the benefits of a pair of eighteen year old Klipsch, SW12 II subs and so far, they're running strong. I was curious about upgrading the drivers as I wait to acquire the monies to upgrade to Funk Audio subwoofers.

-
post #158 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by joehonest View Post

As you can easly SEE the build quality is 4x better !!
I would guess 4 ohm would work best...

From reading, the Klipsch amplifier is an 8 Ohm amplifier. The Xmax on this driver must be less that the Klipsch driver as when the Xmax is put into the calculator, it comes up very anemic.
post #159 of 656
Eighteen year old subs, god bless you !
post #160 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by joehonest View Post

Eighteen year old subs, god bless you !

cool.gif
post #161 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

From reading, the Klipsch amplifier is an 8 Ohm amplifier. The Xmax on this driver must be less that the Klipsch driver as when the Xmax is put into the calculator, it comes up very anemic.

D class amps work well in low ohm ( 2-4) loads.
post #162 of 656
Ive got one coming this week also. Hows the quality of speaker wire used inside, Ive read somewhere online that the subwoofer benefits from upgrading the wiring from the amp to the driver?
post #163 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sold Out View Post

Ive got one coming this week also. Hows the quality of speaker wire used inside, Ive read somewhere online that the subwoofer benefits from upgrading the wiring from the amp to the driver?

I've seen many high-end hyped-up speakers with 16-18ga wire being used. If you replace the wire in a powered sub keep it as short as you can, as the amps damping factor is greatly affected. A .25 of a inch can make a differance in the way it sounds !!
post #164 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by joehonest View Post

I've seen many high-end hyped-up speakers with 16-18ga wire being used. If you replace the wire in a powered sub keep it as short as you can, as the amps damping factor is greatly affected. A .25 of a inch can make a differance in the way it sounds !!
I am not EVEN going to ask why you think a .25 inch of wire would make a differance (sic)...
Nope, not gonna do it! Yep, I am firmly absolutely NOT going to ask!
post #165 of 656
No need to beg, Crown has white papers on the topic, the data is hard fact, if YOU can hear it is another story
post #166 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by joehonest View Post

No need to beg, Crown has white papers on the topic, the data is hard fact, if YOU can hear it is another story
I did not ask....
post #167 of 656
16-18ga wire when they can use Monster cable? I've heard the best subs use Monster hot glue too!
post #168 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by TooLittleTimeZZZ View Post

16-18ga wire when they can use Monster cable? I've heard the best subs use Monster hot glue too!

Bah hahaha!

Seriously though, I need an opinion on upgrading:

I currently have a pair of Polk 111's, and $50 in newegg dollars... 111's sound great, but are lacking for games & movies. Is this a no-brainer upgrade? What are my changes of selling the 111s?
post #169 of 656
Put the polks on craigslist @ the right price they will sell, it helps to live in a metro area, the chances are better for getting your price, but bargains are what most are hunting 4..
post #170 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyqureshi View Post

I received mine on 12/05, and as soon as I moved the box, I heard something rattle frown.gif .. not good. I took the Klipsch box out from the shipping box, still rattling .. i thought may be the grill is lose. I took it to the basement where I would set it up with my Statements over the weekend.
So today (12/08/2012) I took the woofer out of the Klipsch, put it down tilted it back and saw the port tube lose...I will RMA it though.
Anyone else received a rattling sub woofer?

Got mine a few minutes ago. I heard the rattling immediately upon bringing it inside. Un boxed and yes, it is indeed the sub rattling. (SOUNDS like what others have described- like a big piece of plastic rattling inside)

Guess I have an RMA in my future today, unless this is a quick fix. mad.gif
post #171 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by MBRICHARD View Post

Got mine a few minutes ago. I heard the rattling immediately upon bringing it inside. Un boxed and yes, it is indeed the sub rattling. (SOUNDS like what others have described- like a big piece of plastic rattling inside)
Guess I have an RMA in my future today, unless this is a quick fix. mad.gif

Well, I've decided to keep mine and I fixed it by using electrical tape. I did other things too to it though

Two ways to put the tube back in the port:
1. Take out the driver, then put one layer of electrical tape on the tube's outer surface, only on the area that will be inserted into the front port, may be 1 cm away from the edge. Then put one layer on the inside flange of the front port.

2. Without taking the driver out, put two layers of electrical tape on the inside flange of the front port.

#2 will require you to pull the tube from within it and only if your arm can go through all the way in and you can grab the other end of the tube and only then you can pull it in place.

This actually made a very tight fit.

Hope this helps.
post #172 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyqureshi View Post

Well, I've decided to keep mine and I fixed it by using electrical tape. I did other things too to it though
Two ways to put the tube back in the port:
1. Take out the driver, then put one layer of electrical tape on the tube's outer surface, only on the area that will be inserted into the front port, may be 1 cm away from the edge. Then put one layer on the inside flange of the front port.
2. Without taking the driver out, put two layers of electrical tape on the inside flange of the front port.
#2 will require you to pull the tube from within it and only if your arm can go through all the way in and you can grab the other end of the tube and only then you can pull it in place.
This actually made a very tight fit.
Hope this helps.

Thanks for the advice- here's the funny thing...

When I decided to inspect it, the tube seemed in place, and wasn't rattling anymore. I stuck my arm in and low and behold, it came loose again- as of the moment, it's back in place (i was able to pull it back in place...)

I have hooked it up in my living room, where my ML Dynamo is living at the moment, to test it out. I may indeed try your fix, as it sounds easy, and will keep me from having to deal with the re-pack and RMA stuff.

I'll update once I get some more testing done. (SO FAR, it sounds OK- I haven't yet gotten to my "reference levels" yet, but nonetheless it appears to be OK otherwise...)
post #173 of 656
Shipping 50+ pounds is going to cost you big time !!!
post #174 of 656
The sub literally arrived a few hours ago- I haven't looked into the Newegg RMA procedure, but do they not cover shipping back to them if an item is "DOA"?
post #175 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by joehonest View Post

Shipping 50+ pounds is going to cost you big time !!!
It will cost him NOTHING if it is doa. Newegg is very easy to deal with if an item is doa and you do NOT have to pay to ship it back.
Let's get back to the discussion about how changing the wire inside is going to alter the sound...
post #176 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by comicguy View Post

Let's get back to the discussion about how changing the wire inside is going to alter the sound...

Little known fact about myself:

I'm actually a super-villain. I sneak into audiophiles' basements at night, and swap their speaker cables with old extension cords. Or sometimes insulated coat hangers, if I'm in a weird mood. Then I see how long it takes them to notice... cool.gif :: maniacal laugh ::

In other news, mine shipped just now. I have two days to come up with a plan to explain a gigantic box on the doorstep to my wife confused.gif
post #177 of 656
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bendrexl View Post

In other news, mine shipped just now. I have two days to come up with a plan to explain a gigantic box on the doorstep to my wife confused.gif

It's Christmas, aren't packages supposed to show up on your doorstep? Of course, the 'ol "Santa must have left it there" excuse won't work when she sees it in your living room, but that's another story... tongue.gif
post #178 of 656

bosoxfan tried that six days ago and hasn't been heard from since. 

post #179 of 656
Ive been hiding in plain sight, but remember, i had it sent to a neutral location. Not my house. So far so good. I told her i did some " rearrainging". New sub up front, noone sees the old sub beind the seating. All going to plan. My master plan.
post #180 of 656
Received mine today with the rattle everyone is talking about. I knew before I even opened it up that the port had been dislodged from its mounting point. I set it up in the theater by just placing my arm inside the port and putting it back in its place for the time being. I opened the box up later on in the evening by removing the speaker and amp . I used a bunch of hot glue to secure the port back in place. Im really liking the sound this thing makes and for $300 I couldnt be happier even if it did arrive kinda broken. I believe at this price point you cant buy a better subwoofer. Sometime in the near future I do plan on replacing the factory speaker wiring. I was also very surprised to see 2 pages of buttons show up on the Harmony, again a remote control sub at this price point is unheard of.

Also wanted to add that it looks like you could easily add small blocks of wood to the inside of the box then securely attach the port to those blocks. There are 4 screw holes that look like they have been designed and placed there for just that purpose but have been left out of the production process.
Edited by Sold Out - 12/12/12 at 10:55pm
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