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Klipsch RW-12d Subwoofer - Only $299 - Save 70% - Page 8

post #211 of 656
Sale and code are still good. Just ordered one. I am glad I checked here, I thought I had set up an email alert for the sale and it did not show up.
Thanks guys.


JOe
post #212 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by waltah View Post

interesting. you have your ducks in a row. curious to see what the problem turns out to be. keep us posted.

Will do. So it's definitely true that I should not be hearing anything out of the fronts for the HSU tones below my crossover point using the "downward glide" mp3s found here?: http://files.hsuresearch.com/downloads/Hsu_Test_Tones_mp3s/
post #213 of 656
i did the same hsu test and my crossover cutoffs are right on with my fronts, center, and sub. i get slight noise/distortion (for like a millisecond) right at the 70-80hz crossover by the fronts and thats it. definitely no sustained frequencies that shouldn't be there
post #214 of 656
Huh. Well, that's interesting. And I assume it is not helping my sound.
post #215 of 656
Thread Starter 
For the people getting defective units, which seems like just about everyone now... have you been alerting both Newegg and Klipsch? If not, you might want to consider doing it. This seems more like a manufacturing issue to me, and it's probably a good idea that both companies know just how prevalent it is.
post #216 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

For the people getting defective units, which seems like just about everyone now... have you been alerting both Newegg and Klipsch? If not, you might want to consider doing it. This seems more like a manufacturing issue to me, and it's probably a good idea that both companies know just how prevalent it is.

I'd be interested in knowing if anyone received theirs with the port totally detached as opposed to still attached in the rear and just hanging. The latter problem is a 30 second fix, just slip back in and secure if desired (though mine fits snugly and probably needs nothing, I'm wrapping with gorilla tape just in case). A totally detached port is a huge deal imo, and would seem to require opening the case to repair. I don't think the first issue is any real issue at all, Klip could not have expected that bead of glue to do much to prevent any degree of forced separation. I'd return a unit with a totally detached port for fear of voiding warranty by opening the box up.
post #217 of 656
OK now that the sale is over I can wine a little. I just set up a home theater in my basement and bought an Onkyo Box system with decent 5.1 speakers for a box system. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882120191 (Paid $399 on cyber monday, just couldn't pass up the deal)

I figure with this sub, two decent surrounds to make the system 7.1 and a really nice center channel replacement I'd have a really nice setup. Because I just dumped so much cash into my theater (Surround, 65" Vizio, bluray, couches, dry bar with fridge, etc...) I just couldn't pull the trigger even though I don't see a deal like this jumping in my lap again any time soon.

OK, I have no point to make hear, just venting a little. It broke my heart a little to pass on this deal but in the end I know it was the responsible fiscal move.
post #218 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

For the people getting defective units, which seems like just about everyone now... have you been alerting both Newegg and Klipsch? If not, you might want to consider doing it. This seems more like a manufacturing issue to me, and it's probably a good idea that both companies know just how prevalent it is.

It's probably the reason for the fire sale. Unload the bad product as fast as possible, cut your losses and move on (from the companies perspective that is).
post #219 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by scipper77 View Post

It's probably the reason for the fire sale. Unload the bad product as fast as possible, cut your losses and move on (from the companies perspective that is).

Bad product? Don't kid yourself.

I'll fully admit it is somewhat of a design flaw that there is no bracket to bear the load of the top of the port tube, I mentioned that before. With that said, anyone with even a fraction of handyman in them can fix this. Yank the woofer out and reseat the tube with epoxy (or tape in a snag). I picked up some loctite plastic/abs specific epoxy and it would take an act of God or a sawzall you remove the tube now. cool.gif Calling it a bad product for a minor design flaw that has no effect on performance is ignorant. Sorry.

I was peeved even knowing this might be an issue on delivery. I was actually questioning my purchase. After the epoxy set in about 30min I hooked everything up, set my crossovers and eq on my receiver, then finished up on the LCD on the klipsch itself....WOW. I was up until 2a watching snips of my favorite movies and finally just sitting back to some music. This thing has nothing short of blown me away, pun intended. No exaggeration on that either. I was worried going from my CV 15" to this smaller 12" from a pure power/pressure standpoint. I knew the accuracy and quality of sound would be better. I was not expecting it to outperform the CV in power. Frankly, the two cant even be compared in any category. Couldn't be happier with this purchase. biggrin.gif

what I enjoy most so far with the kilpsch is the quality of sound at ANY volume level. I dont need to crank it to get good response out of it. I had to crank the CV to get it to respond. The klipsch is quite sensitive and as it loosens up ill have to continue fine tuning it. No complaints there though.
post #220 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by scipper77 View Post

It's probably the reason for the fire sale. Unload the bad product as fast as possible, cut your losses and move on (from the companies perspective that is).

I don't remember seeing this problem til just recently and it has been selling at $300 off and on for quite awhile.
post #221 of 656
Age of the glue would make sense. Not to mention Whoever glued mine used hot glue and only gooped it on one side. They didn't even put a bead all the way around the connection. It was destined to disconnect.
post #222 of 656
Easy guys. I'm not saying the product is bad based on design or performance. I'm saying that from the manufacturing standpoint, if the item has a high rate of defect resulting in a high rate of return you are loosing profit and your companies reputation will take a hit as well. If you have already produced and distributed a bunch of a defective product what choice do you have?

A great product when working, A mess if you are a company who just realized you sent out a few thousand broken speakers.
post #223 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

I don't remember seeing this problem til just recently and it has been selling at $300 off and on for quite awhile.

I got mine a couple weeks ago and it did not have the this problem. It does seem like somebody dropped a recent batch or something.
post #224 of 656
Ehh, dont be so sure. Mine was fine until after I unboxed and had to lay on its back for a moment....since I was prepared for this issue I looked inside and saw the slightest gap. In putting my hand in I dislodged the port tube only to pull it back down in place. Given the poor design, I'd wager if anyone put their hand in the port with any force, the tube would come loose. The glue was intentionally put on thin for whatever reason. My guess is that the design relies on friction to hold the port in place (my understanding is that a well-fitted port does not require any additional glue or support). The glue was probably used as belt and suspenders, but age and a trip across the country (in my case, at least), took its toll.
post #225 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

I don't remember seeing this problem til just recently and it has been selling at $300 off and on for quite awhile.

Just did a quick search and I found at least one thread re a loose port from over a year ago. I suspect that many would not even notice an issue if not alerted to it in advance.
post #226 of 656
Anyway, my other issues aside, the sub sounds great. Huge step up from my Velodynes run from my stereo receiver.
post #227 of 656
At what point should I be concerned about damaging the speaker? I have it at -14 now, and that really puts out some bass with the rest of my system at a decent volume. But if I turn up the system as a whole for real "movie watching volume", I'm a little concerned about the sub. How rugged is this thing?
post #228 of 656
Thread Starter 
Unless you have the sub's gain cranked all the way up -14 is not too high. Let 'er rip!
post #229 of 656
To clarify, my sub is at -14. Receiver gets pretty high, not sure exactly but I want to say closing in on 0.

By the way, a kind soul in the Yamaha thread, as well as Yamaha customer support, said that my receiver has a gradual decline below the crossover rather than a cutoff.
post #230 of 656
I unboxed mine today. Heard some rattling and immediately was nervous. But when I opened the first box the rattling was from hard cardboard "corners" that were loose. No rattling from the sub itself. Haven't turned it on because I don't have anything set up...waiting for TV to be delivered Tuesday. I'm still surprised at how big this thing is. Wowzerssss
post #231 of 656
Just got mine apart and applied the loctite epoxy as suggested. Hope this does the trick. (it hasn't come completely off yet under testing, but I don't like the idea of it being "kind of in place...".)

I'll update tomorrow once I get it back together and tested.
post #232 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by MBRICHARD View Post

Just got mine apart and applied the loctite epoxy as suggested. Hope this does the trick. (it hasn't come completely off yet under testing, but I don't like the idea of it being "kind of in place...".)
I'll update tomorrow once I get it back together and tested.

If you used the Epoxy it will do the trick and that's for sure !!! It will not come loose again. biggrin.gif
post #233 of 656
Got mine delivered this afternoon two days after ordering it (the Onkyo TX-NR818 hit less than 24 hours after ordering it from Amazon lol), sure enough the port was loose. For the life of me I don't see what all the complaining is about, literally took me 10 seconds to figure out how to and then reach up and "reseat" the port. Will probably epoxy it as others have to avoid future issues.

The rest of the system is due in tomorrow, can't wait to piece everything together this weekend, VERY STOKED!!!


Do you guys think I would be well served to utilize the "HSU has nice test tones (http://files.hsuresearch.com/downloads/)" previously mentioned? Or will the Onkyo TX-NR818's Audyssey MultEQ XT32 software / program take care of that?
post #234 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreseller View Post

Got mine delivered this afternoon two days after ordering it (the Onkyo TX-NR818 hit less than 24 hours after ordering it from Amazon lol), sure enough the port was loose. For the life of me I don't see what all the complaining is about, literally took me 10 seconds to figure out how to and then reach up and "reseat" the port. Will probably epoxy it as others have to avoid future issues.
The rest of the system is due in tomorrow, can't wait to piece everything together this weekend, VERY STOKED!!!
Do you guys think I would be well served to utilize the "HSU has nice test tones (http://files.hsuresearch.com/downloads/)" previously mentioned? Or will the Onkyo TX-NR818's Audyssey MultEQ XT32 software / program take care of that?

Agreed- I knocked out the entire process in about 30 minutes, let it sit overnight, and fired it back up today. Feels WAY more solid now, of course. Will be watching Newegg, as now I need a 2nd one to balance out the aesthetics... biggrin.gif
post #235 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by MBRICHARD View Post

Agreed- I knocked out the entire process in about 30 minutes, let it sit overnight, and fired it back up today. Feels WAY more solid now, of course. Will be watching Newegg, as now I need a 2nd one to balance out the aesthetics... biggrin.gif

Did you disassemble the unit to reglue the port? If so did you remove the 12" driver or remove the lower plastic molded portion of the casing? From what I remember seeing it looked like I could simply smear some glue / epoxy around the fixed tube that the port slides into then remove excess glue after it's fully seated.
post #236 of 656
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreseller View Post

For the life of me I don't see what all the complaining is about, literally took me 10 seconds to figure out how to and then reach up and "reseat" the port.

The fact that a person spends $300 on a brand new product and it gets delivered needing a repair - regardless of how easy it may or may not be to fix - seems like a valid reason for all those folks to be complaining. That's akin to taking delivery of a brand new car with a flat tire; minor fix, perhaps, but shouldn't be required.

I'm not sure if simply "reseating" it will be sufficient for the long term. There's going to be a lot of air coming out of that port. If you don't add some type of epoxy or sealant it may end up falling out again, or rattling.
post #237 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreseller View Post

Did you disassemble the unit to reglue the port? If so did you remove the 12" driver or remove the lower plastic molded portion of the casing? From what I remember seeing it looked like I could simply smear some glue / epoxy around the fixed tube that the port slides into then remove excess glue after it's fully seated.

I took out the driver to make it easier to smear the stuff- I am glad I did, as it was easier to spread the stuff around where it connects for a more even attachment. (as a previous poster pointed out, there wasn't a real efficient way to get 100% all the way around the lower molding- I just smeared around what I could reach with a flat wooden stick, i.e. a pair of takeout chopsticks biggrin.gif, to get it as even as possible.)

It seems ROCK solid now. There is no "give" any more when I press on it from the inside as there was before.
post #238 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

The fact that a person spends $300 on a brand new product and it gets delivered needing a repair - regardless of how easy it may or may not be to fix - seems like a valid reason for all those folks to be complaining. That's akin to taking delivery of a brand new car with a flat tire; minor fix, perhaps, but shouldn't be required.
I'm not sure if simply "reseating" it will be sufficient for the long term. There's going to be a lot of air coming out of that port. If you don't add some type of epoxy or sealant it may end up falling out again, or rattling.

I hear what you are saying Jim, but my comment was made with all practicality in mind. Short of buying used from Ebay or Craigslist, I could not find anything close to this deal for anywhere near $300, maybe someone else has.

That said, as I see it, here are your options if you purchase this and receive it with the port detached:

1. Spend a minute or two to fix it by sliding the port back into place.
2. Take #1 a step further and spend $5.49 plus tax (bought mine this morning from Meier) on Loctite Plastic Epoxy and a half an hour or so disassembling the unit and reglueing the port.
3. Call Newegg, get a return authorization code, repackage the sub, drag it (anyone else notice it's nearly the size of a small appliance) to UPS or wherever to ship it back
4. Start your search for another Sub......or..............
5. Get your replacement Sub from Newegg and likely start over at step one.

Just my 2 cents and likely worth both.
post #239 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman123 View Post

I'd be interested in knowing if anyone received theirs with the port totally detached as opposed to still attached in the rear and just hanging. The latter problem is a 30 second fix, just slip back in and secure if desired (though mine fits snugly and probably needs nothing, I'm wrapping with gorilla tape just in case). A totally detached port is a huge deal imo, and would seem to require opening the case to repair. I don't think the first issue is any real issue at all, Klip could not have expected that bead of glue to do much to prevent any degree of forced separation. I'd return a unit with a totally detached port for fear of voiding warranty by opening the box up.

I got mine in November and did not have a rattling or loose port. There is one thing that rattles and its my entire house. Yeah sure the house shakes from the powerful sub but all of my wife's annoying nicknacks are pissing me off. I absolutely love this sub so far.
post #240 of 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman123 View Post

I'd be interested in knowing if anyone received theirs with the port totally detached as opposed to still attached in the rear and just hanging. The latter problem is a 30 second fix, just slip back in and secure if desired (though mine fits snugly and probably needs nothing, I'm wrapping with gorilla tape just in case). A totally detached port is a huge deal imo, and would seem to require opening the case to repair. I don't think the first issue is any real issue at all, Klip could not have expected that bead of glue to do much to prevent any degree of forced separation. I'd return a unit with a totally detached port for fear of voiding warranty by opening the box up.

I wish I would of taken pictures a day or so ago of what I did to permanently repair the loose port situation. When I removed the 12" driver (it is held in with 8 T20 Torx type screws) I got a good close look at the port tube, an oval black plastic tube ~ 18" to 24" long that extends diagonally from the front bottom of the sub cabinet to the upper / top portion of the rear. The port tube in mine had a generous amount of glue around it ending just above where it fully seated into the female section that it went into. It looks as if the tight tolerance between the male / female sections simply pushed the glue "up" the tube when they assembled it OR they put the glue around the joint after they were put together, either way there wasn't any trace of glue where the surfaces met.

How I dealt with mine; remove the driver, pull the port tube completely out of the hole where it should be seated, mix the Loctite Plastic Epoxy (2 part resin / hardener), place the sub on it's back with the driver opening facing up, use a throw away artist brush to "paint" the glue inside the female part of the joint from outside the sub cabinet, reach in and reseat the port into the female base, wipe off excess / squeezed out epoxy, wipe again with a towel soaked with mineral spirits to remove glue residue, turn the sub cabinet over 180 degrees with the driver opening facing downward and let sit overnight. The next day reattach black / red wires to driver (they're different sized spade connectors, can't mess up) and secure the driver in cabinet with the 8 screws.
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