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FP1000oq clone issues

post #1 of 101
7/20/12 at 5:37am
Thread Starter 
Hey guys. I have had some issues with my 220v FP 10000q clone amp intermitantly clicking off and on since I got it. I have been trying to contact Johnson Tang about getting it fixed, and he stopped replying to my emails a few days ago. Has anybody else been corresponding with him recently? Perhaps on vacation? Just a little worried he's ignoring the issue. I found a video on you tube of the same problem, just mine clicks on and off about every 20 to 30 seconds, and will sometimes go days with working perfectly. Of course the video is in spanish.lol. Sounds like maybe the power supply?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0p29rkY6T6Y&feature=player_detailpage
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post #2 of 101
7/20/12 at 6:50am
Did you check your wiring first? What is it plugged into?
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post #3 of 101
7/20/12 at 9:08am
Thread Starter 
Yeah, the power at the plug is steady and it is pluggged into a relay box. The relay in the box is turning on and staying on. Bypassing the relay changes nothing.
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post #4 of 101
7/20/12 at 2:30pm
Thread Starter 
The last email Johnson sent m, he wanted to know the voltage of the large red wire that is soldered to the top of the large circuit board on the left. It said in his diagram 153.5v. All I could measure was about 85v pulsing rapidly. I was just using a cheap multimeter.
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post #5 of 101
8/4/12 at 8:21am
Thread Starter 
An update on the issue I have had with this amp. I have used it daily and the problem has not shown up for over two weeks, Johnson got back to me to check some resitors that they suspect could be causing the problem. I took the amp apart this a.m. and of the six resistors, only two of them showed resistance. All the other were 0 ohms. I replied to Johnson, but he is probably sleeping. I'm no electrician, but, shouldn't resistors show SOME resistance at all times? The other fact that I am wondering about is, if the reistors are bad, why does it work perfectly 99.9% of the time? I wouldn't think it would be a intermitant thing. hmmmm.
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post #6 of 101
8/4/12 at 9:09am
Interested to see how this plays out, I am close to ordering one of these myself.
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post #7 of 101
8/4/12 at 9:21am
Thread Starter 
yeah, I am VERY impressed with this amp other than the three or four times it acted up. And it is much more infrequent now. So hard to troubleshoot when it isn't broke, but I don't want to completely ignore it and have Sanway think I did something to it after a lot of time has passed. I'm open to ideas and suggestions
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post #8 of 101
8/4/12 at 11:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by keager View Post

yeah, I am VERY impressed with this amp other than the three or four times it acted up.

eek.gif

Best of luck, for sure. Your statement just got me though ...

I realize when you're right in the middle of something, your perspective is entirely different than what it may be otherwise. But a big power amp should be essentially bullet-proof, and offer years and years of trouble free service.

Not being interested in purchasing one of these, I've not followed the threads discussing them very much, but have there be a lot of issues? Power amps should be the last component one should worry about.

Well, best of luck.
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post #9 of 101
8/4/12 at 11:46am
Thread Starter 
I know its like saying " my car is great when its not broke down" lol. I guess since it has not ever failed when I wanted to listen to it and The issue is so infrequent, I just gotta do what I can. I understood before buying that there is no replacement warranty, and I'm glad Sanway at least is returning my emails and shows some interest in taking care of it, even if I have to be the one to change the parts. Getting upset about it will do no good. I always respect your comments FOH, thanks for your thoughts. In the mean time I'm lovin the insane IB sound.
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post #10 of 101
8/4/12 at 12:52pm
Please, no disrespect intended. I see and can appreciate the conundrum of buying it, realizing it's a killer performance/price,.... with grey area value (at least my take) I get it, they are intriguing.

----

Car analogy; Seems like they could back the tune off a bit and get a bit more reliability.

You know, ... nope, let's walk down and **** 'em all.

Just sayin'
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post #11 of 101
8/4/12 at 2:08pm
Thread Starter 
Absolutely no disrepect interpretted. I agree with your point! I reread my post and realized it sounded kinda defensive even though that wasn't my intent. It's all good!
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post #12 of 101
8/12/12 at 4:04pm
Thread Starter 
well the amp acted up briefly yesterday for the first time in about a month. was fine the rest of the day. Johnson at Sanway wants me to unsolder and test some diodes that he says the engineer is quite certain the culprit. I Emailed Johnson today to tell him that I wanted him to send me the diodes before I completely disassemble and unsolder things. i don't think this is asking too much since I'm sure the diodes cost them next to nothing and the could be shipped in an envelope. I feel it is a good test of customer service for others how he handles this. I will be the chinese knock-off amplifier customer service test dummy. I also am telling him that many other potential customers are reading this thread because of concern for this very incident.
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post #13 of 101
8/13/12 at 8:51pm
Thread Starter 
Finally got my amp to do its thing while filming it. I know its a boring thread, but important to see how sanway handles this for future customers. Very intermitant and sound cuts out when lights flicker on amp.
th_2012-08-13_20-32-46_71.jpg
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post #14 of 101
8/14/12 at 5:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by keager View Post

Finally got my amp to do its thing while filming it. I know its a boring thread, but important to see how sanway handles this for future customers. Very intermitant and sound cuts out when lights flicker on amp.

I for one am VERY interested in the outcome and DO NOT find this thread boring!
Thanks so much for sharing and hope Sanway does the right thing.
I'm sorry your having problems with your amp.

Thank you.
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post #15 of 101
8/14/12 at 5:35am
Thread Starter 
Thanks, I'll keep updating
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post #16 of 101
8/14/12 at 6:00am
Thread Starter 
Just recieved email that Johnson is shipping the suspect diodes etc. He attached an invoice in the email that had an amount of 10 dollars. I replied aking him if he expects me to pay for them and have not heard back. I certainly hope he doesnt want me to pay for them.
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post #17 of 101
8/14/12 at 10:13am
I just pulled the trigger on five 10000q amps ( four for use, one as a spare)... I too will be checking in here to review the issues, and fixes as they arise... I literally got an email back from johnson as I am writing this to say he saw my payment come in ( it's 1:11 AM there) . I mentioned that I learned about thier product on this forum, and that I hope he continues to "support" his customers. Photos to come once I have these bad boys lined up in the rack smile.gif
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post #18 of 101
8/14/12 at 3:26pm
Hey Wood,

You bought more clones after selling you first clones?
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post #19 of 101
8/18/12 at 9:44am
Thread Starter 
Johnson sent the components in question via DHL and will be here in a few days. He said he will provided instructions and specs for testing/replacing
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post #20 of 101
8/18/12 at 9:45am
Thread Starter 
Oh, and he said I dont have to pay anything for them despite the invoice saying 10 dollars
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post #21 of 101
8/23/12 at 6:14am
Thread Starter 
Here is the components Johnson sent to fix my amp. The parts are tiny, and will be a challenge to solder onto the board without damaging anything else. Waiting for him to send instructions and some specs to test the old parts.
C360_2012-08-22-19-28-15.jpg
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post #22 of 101
8/26/12 at 8:28am
Thread Starter 
Well, I am in the middle of surgery with my amp. I have all the diodes in place and ready to solder, but I'm stuck and need a suggestion. The ast componet to replace is a little mini circuit board with several pin terminals soldered into the main circuit board. it is a very congested area on the board from above and hard to get my hands on the top of it. What I am having trouble with is desoldering and removing the old part. I don't have a way of heating up all the connections at once to pull it out when the solder is molten. I tried "wicking" the solder with some copper speaker wire and have not had any luck. These are very tiny terminals. Would I need to go get a desoldering bulb, or any other suggestions. See pictures.
C360_2012-08-26-08-15-34.jpg
C360_2012-08-26-08-18-31.jpg
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post #23 of 101
8/26/12 at 11:23am
You should be able to pick up some de-soldering wick at an electronics store. Radio Shack should have it. There is also something that looks like a little syringe that is a little vacuum device, it will pull up the solder with a click of a button. I usually just hold the part on component side of the board with a small pair of needle nose pliers and heat the solder. Important not to move the part around to much when unheated as you can damage the trace circuits on the board.
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post #24 of 101
8/26/12 at 12:04pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tip!
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post #25 of 101
9/3/12 at 8:40am
Thread Starter 
I'm still at a standstill trying to remove this last part. I got some desoldering braid and it just doesnt quite get all the solder out. I ordered a desoldering sucker outer "gun" which looks like the only other option. I tried holding a thick piece of copper across all the pins to heat them at the same time and it just wont get them hot enough. They are really tiny pins. I'm open to other suggestions.
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post #26 of 101
9/4/12 at 7:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by keager View Post

I'm still at a standstill trying to remove this last part. I got some desoldering braid and it just doesnt quite get all the solder out. I ordered a desoldering sucker outer "gun" which looks like the only other option. I tried holding a thick piece of copper across all the pins to heat them at the same time and it just wont get them hot enough. They are really tiny pins. I'm open to other suggestions.
since you already got the pcb out i would really suggest you to bring it to someone that has a desoldering station.

an electronics repair shop that deal with surface mount component should have the station. i see quite a lot of handphone repair shop have some sort of SMD rework station that will have desoldering capability integrated.

with a desoldering station it'll take 15-30 seconds to cleanly desolder and remove any and all solder lead to all the pins.

desoldering with a sucker will also get the job done. but heat the pins too much and you could easily lift up the trace. and some pin are dead hard to remove by just using a sucker.

if desoldering sucker outer "gun" that you mentioned is indeed a self-heated desoldering tool then just wait till that arrive and use that. beats having to rectify lifted trace.
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post #27 of 101
9/5/12 at 6:16am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by paskal9 View Post

since you already got the pcb out i would really suggest you to bring it to someone that has a desoldering station.

an electronics repair shop that deal with surface mount component should have the station. i see quite a lot of handphone repair shop have some sort of SMD rework station that will have desoldering capability integrated.
with a desoldering station it'll take 15-30 seconds to cleanly desolder and remove any and all solder lead to all the pins.

desoldering with a sucker will also get the job done. but heat the pins too much and you could easily lift up the trace. and some pin are dead hard to remove by just using a sucker.
if desoldering sucker outer "gun" that you mentioned is indeed a self-heated desoldering tool then just wait till that arrive and use that. beats having to rectify lifted trace.

The PCB isn't "out". Its just accessable by removimg the top, bottom, and front covers. The thing I ordered is not self heating, but it looks similar to the blue tool you have in your last post. Not an ideal situation, but I believe I can make it work. Thanks for your advice and expertise.
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post #28 of 101
9/15/12 at 8:59am
Thread Starter 
Well I finally got the last component replaced. It wasn't pretty, but I am able to measure with an ohm meter that there is continuity from the respective printed circuit to each terminal. That was the good news. The bad news is, I plugged it in and the relay in the photo below just clicks continuously. About one click per second and the front panel lights come on just like its powering on each time it clicks, along with the fans. The pcb that the relay is mounted to goes straight to the power cord, fuse and switch. I carefully examined everything I can see, and doen't see any bad solder connections or things connected that shouldn't be. Another email to Johnson....C360_2012-09-15-08-44-04.jpg

C360_2012-09-15-08-55-05.jpg
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post #29 of 101
9/16/12 at 1:54pm
Thread Starter 
And here is what the amp is doing after replacing all the parts provided for repair.
th_2012-09-16_07-40-02_548.jpg
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post #30 of 101
9/16/12 at 3:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by keager View Post

And here is what the amp is doing after replacing all the parts provided for repair.

Keager, that's really unfortunate and it hurts to see that..I really hope you get it going cause the amp is really worth it.

Good luck!
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