Official Samsung UN75ES9000 Thread - Page 7

Sorry for thinking you were in North America, you know what they say about assuming LOL So yes yours should be set to 50 then. North American electricity operates at 60 Hz, and in Europe and I think Asia is at 50 Hz. I could be completely off, but if I recall correctly it syncs the lighting in the set to the electricity you are feeding it, if both are at the correct frequency no flicker. Hopefully someone more techie than me can explain it better. I know what I mean to say in my head, but am having difficulty explaining it in a technically proficient way.

Congrats!

A spinnin wheel on a blackscreen I guess you mean when the disk was loading? You do get (i do at least) a lighter area around when there is a text box or whatever over a non signal black screen. But when a movie is playing or something else I dont get it att all over dark or black screens. So I guess is normal.

Yeah, its a little disappointing that the whole screen kind of "pulsed" as the wheel spun. I know that it is the limitation of the technology (edge lighting) trying to maintain a completely black screen while having a light colored wheel spin in the center of the screen. I am sure the folks over on the Elite thread will feel pretty smug, as the full array backlighting with local dimming doesn't have that issue. Honestly, other than that one minor quibble, I stand by my opinion that the PQ is highly comparable to the Elite's. I tried to show in my photo's that even in a completely darkened room (and my room is really dark with the deep red walls, and even my ceiling is painted a bronze/gold to get rid of any light reflecting off of the ceiling) the black bars are about as indistinguishable as they could be, and I sure a full on calibration will only improve the PQ further.

I threw Prometheus 3D on for about half an hour to check for ghosting and crosstalk (the Sharp 80LE844 I returned was unwatchable in 3D, the crosstalk and ghosting were really evident) and even the 20th Century Fox logo looked spectacular. There was a very slight amount of crosstalk on text, but was periodic, and not very noticeable unless you were paying attention to it specifically. I did notice moments where there was ghosting in a couple of backgrounds, but again, unless I was actually looking for it, it was not very apparent and only in one instance would I say it took me out of the moment.

This is an odd thing to be impressed about, but the speakers on this tv defy logic. How can a tv less than an inch thick sound as good as this ?! As you can see in the photo's, it is hooked up to a decent sound system (OnkyoTX-SR805 receiver, Monitor Audio Silver series speakers in a 5.1 setup), but I did try the tv channels just on the tv speakers and while there is no comparison between the two, the tv speakers were actually very listenable if you didn't want to turn on the whole system. Balanced and not at all tinny, and again, this is the amazing part...the tv is less than an inch thick !

yes the sound is very good. And the looks impressive. Best out there no doubt in my opinion.

The screen will get better, a bit, with some time of use. You can play with the settings to make the effect be less evident. But the screen gets less dark on a total black screen, when there is a white text on it. Like a sign of input over a black screen or even when the credits of a movie are shown at the end of a movie. However for some reason, you do not get that effect at all when a movie is playing on dark or black scenes and there is a bright object on it. Strange. For that reason it does not bother me.

I think the perfect does not exists. I use to have the, for me, legendary Kuro 6090H. Blacks where best I have seen to date. No matter what current model you mention. But in other areas was not close to the Samsung. I would have bought a 4K tv if it wasn't for the lack of content. Until then, I do not think overall it gets better than this set. In some areas others may be a bit ahead and in others behind. All things together, for me, this is the best choice.

I just wish there were ore users sharing experiences. Also more (some?) reviews. But I guess price is an obstacle. Please share your setting experiences once you have some time playing with it.

So just a quick update regarding the 3D quality. The included SSG3550 glasses are the culprit for the ghosting and crosstalk. I had purchased 2 additional pair of glasses with my tv so as to have 6 pairs. I had thought that as it is the newest tv the glasses would also be the newest ie. the SSG4100, so those were the ones I bought extra. As I was cleaning up the box, and packaging I noticed that the model number were different from the extra's I had bought and the ones included, so checked them out. The SSG4100 are a little more comfortable, and although I don't like that they use a button battery as opposed to being rechargeable, they removed just about every instance of ghosting or crosstalk I had noticed before. I verified this by watching about 10-15 minutes of Avengers 3D with the SSG3550's and then ended up watching it all the way through with the SSG4100's.

Not sure if anyone else has tried the SSG4100 with their tv yet, but from my experience, they are noticeably improved over the included SSG3550 glasses. They also seemed to allow a touch more light through because the picture did seem to be slightly brighter as well.

For those hoping for settings, please be patient, I WILL post my settings, I just want to see how the tv settles over a few days. I am struggling to get the color dialed in, its good, but not great right now, and that is without adjusting HUE at all, and no adjustments to the 10 point scale. I may experiment a little there to try and find something in-between warm 1 which seems a touch too cool (blue) and warm 2 which definitely has bit too much red. That being said, I am very confident than a professional calibrator adjusting the 10 point, and using a more reliable instrument than my eyes will be able to dial them in perfectly. This is not to say in any way that I find the color lacking, just that coming from Panasonic 55GT30 model plasma, I do notice that they are not quite as natural looking...YET. The saturation/depth of color is really impressive for how little time I have spent tweaking the settings, now its just to try and get them accurate.
Edited by pred1973 - 1/27/13 at 8:25pm

Pages, and pages of talk. All I need is the professionally calibrated settings other owners can share! Help!

For those of you who are following my comments, I spent about an hour or so today dialing in the colors. I would say I am now about 90% of what I am capable of using my own eyes and the patterns I have. At this point the only thing I have not made any adjustments to is the 10 point scale, and I may leave that to a professional calibrator as there is a lot of things to tweak and I would want some means of reliably measuring the results. When I test the grayscale using the patterns I have, it becomes evident to me that getting it right is something I could burn a lot of hours on and still not get right.

Some additional thoughts at this point, I have noticed a bit of flashlighting on images with a moving bright center on dark backgrounds. As I have stated before, I am aware of the limitations of edge lighting, but would be interested in hearing from others on how noticeable it is on their sets. It doesn't seem to bother my wife, and it is borderline for me as far as being acceptable or not, so I look forward to hearing others experiences on this. The set I demoed in-store did not show this amount of flashlighting, and had excellent uniformity. To be fair, I can't recall it being noticeable during viewing of actual content, and primarily shows itself with the backlight set to higher numbers than I use for normal viewing. Like I said, I am kind of on the fence as to its acceptability.

I am unsure how much interest there is for additional screenshots, as some dislike the bandwidth they consume, and consider them useless in assessing the true PQ of the set. Others do seem to appreciate them, so I will wait for feedback before posting further screenshots. If anyone is interested in specific titles or shots, shoot me a PM and I may be able to accommodate ( I have over 1,000 movies, although they are not all Blu-Ray ).

Yes, the setting is complicated with all the alternatives. I keep coming back and forth adjusting but do not seem to get ot a point where I am confident.

The effect you describe, I notice it basically with credits at the en of a movie or per instance when you get the no signal message over a black screen. On movies I don't really get it unless the scene is very very dark, and it is much less noticeable. I was able to get rid of it using the ES8000 settings of CNET, but then I felt I lost a bit of detail and at the end preferred to go back to the standard settings and twiking backlight and other options. If you set backlight to 10 or bellow, in Cinema, you should not notice it that much.

I am interested in sharing settings. Not only colors and the like, but also what options we are using with all the alternatives in the menu.

Also, in your BD or source (and processor if you are using one). THe color space you have it set to RGB extended, or component (YCB)?

7? Seems too low no? Don't you loose too much detail?

Would you mind sharing rest of set up options?

I am finding that something between 8 and 10 is ok on a dark room, but even 12 works fine on Movie mode.

+1. Don't even bother.

I haven't had a chance to see this TV in person, but from what you guys are saying it must be good. I had a few questions when you have the time:

1. Has anyone had a chance to measure the black level on these TV's?

2. Have you guys seen any banding?

3. Is there a significant improvement when you have the micro dimming turned on vs. turned off?

The only reason I ask is because I plan on buying the new F8000 LED later this year and it seems like Samsung used the same dimming tech from the ES9000 for the F8000. Currently I have a C6300 which is a pretty good TV for the most part. However, as soon as you turn the lights off, the C6300 is plagued with clouding and greyish blacks. I have been wanting to replace that TV for over a year but nothing good has come out until now.

1) As far as I know there has been no measurement of the black level published anywhere I can find. That being said, I feel pretty confident in saying that as far as an edge lit tv goes, this is as good as it gets. I will concede, grudgingly, that the Elite does have inkier blacks, but you give up 5" of real estate and a bunch of features you may or may not find useful.

2)So far on mine screen uniformity is pretty good, I will say that this tv does show slightly lighter black left and right edges on full black test patterns if you are off center by about 20-30 degrees, but during viewing of 4 by 3 material it doesn't at all. The software for making letterbox bars or the side pillars blacker works extremely well.

3)This one is tricky to answer because "significant" is very subjective. One of the challenges in describing aspects of this tv is that it behaves somewhat differently on test patterns vs actual viewing. There may be multiple options in the menu that seem to address the same things and in some situations its hard to know which of the options you have engaged are contributing to the image you see. Our eyes tend to adjust to differences, so setting something and then changing a different setting and going back and rewatching the last section you were viewing has limited benefit. I think they call it "video memory". For me, on my tv, it has been a little challenging to dial this tv in, because there does seem to be some magic with the software when it comes to static images like a test pattern vs actual content.

1,- No sorry. But the blacks are, in my opinion very deep and good. Almost as good as the Kuro's. Maybe not quite there but close enough not to miss them. You can tweak them with all the options available. Problem is, the menu of Samsung is a bit confusing to me. Hard to tell for me what each particular option does. For best black in my case, if source and processor is set to RGB extended, is to place HDMI black to low. If you set it to high, the blacks actually become less deep and more to the gray side of things. If you do not select RGB, this options is not available. So that makes me think that it has to do with setting the TV's color space to 0-225 or 16-225, being 0-225 HDMI black low.

You can also play with other settings to get deeper black, but not really necessary. These are as black as I would want them, in a total dark room. (with the exception of black screens with white text like the credits of a movie, where the screen behing the white text gets a bit lighter as the text moves on from top down). But as said, this does no occur on otherwise totally black movie scenes with a bright object on screen. Not sure why that is the case, but it is. In movie playing black is uniform and deep regardless of what's on screen.

2.- Can you please define banding?

3,. I guess micro dimming is the option called smart led? If so, I leave it on all the time. I would need to check.

One thing I do notice is that some movies have, specially at certain scenes, too much grain. Only happens with some movies and within, on certain scenes. Wonder why that may be and best way to solve it. With the setting given by CNET for the ES8000 this is much less evident.

Overall I do agree is hard to adjust by just using your eyes. Too many options. and memory is short, and I am getting too lazy to play one same scene over and over testing the zillion different alternatives...

I would happily pay for a pro calibration but I don't know any close to my place. So if someone gets one would be of great help if they shared.

1,- No sorry. But the blacks are, in my opinion very deep and good. Almost as good as the Kuro's. Maybe not quite there but close enough not to miss them. You can tweak them with all the options available. Problem is, the menu of Samsung is a bit confusing to me. Hard to tell for me what each particular option does. For best black in my case, if source and processor is set to RGB extended, is to place HDMI black to low. If you set it to high, the blacks actually become less deep and more to the gray side of things. If you do not select RGB, this options is not available. So that makes me think that it has to do with setting the TV's color space to 0-225 or 16-225, being 0-225 HDMI black low.

You can also play with other settings to get deeper black, but not really necessary. These are as black as I would want them, in a total dark room. (with the exception of black screens with white text like the credits of a movie, where the screen behing the white text gets a bit lighter as the text moves on from top down). But as said, this does no occur on otherwise totally black movie scenes with a bright object on screen. Not sure why that is the case, but it is. In movie playing black is uniform and deep regardless of what's on screen.

2.- Can you please define banding?

3,. I guess micro dimming is the option called smart led? If so, I leave it on all the time. I would need to check.

One thing I do notice is that some movies have, specially at certain scenes, too much grain. Only happens with some movies and within, on certain scenes. Wonder why that may be and best way to solve it. With the setting given by CNET for the ES8000 this is much less evident.

Overall I do agree is hard to adjust by just using your eyes. Too many options. and memory is short, and I am getting too lazy to play one same scene over and over testing the zillion different alternatives...

I would happily pay for a pro calibration but I don't know any close to my place. So if someone gets one would be of great help if they shared.

I think I have a faulty HDMI input. HDMI 2.

I get when playing movies red lines and little bright dots shining. First I thought it was the HDMI cable. I changed it and it worked for a while. But then when I adjuted to 24p they came again. Then thought it was the processor HDMIs; updated firmware. The HTPC since I only got it from it for a while and not from the Dune player. Updated drivers. Same. Than it also started happening with the Dune.

Decided to buy better HDMI cables than the stock cheap ones. Not going crazy at all like audio cables, but spenfding 70 to 100 euro on shielded HDMI. Same thing... And then I decided to cahnge the input of the processor from HDMI 2 to HDMI 3. Nad the problem was gone... Strange. I don't know if it is a hardware problem or a software problem. will ask Samsung.

in any case HDMI 1 and 3 work fine so who knows.

As a side effect, I do strongly recommend expending a little money in decent HDMI cables. Again nothing crazy like high end audio. But decent shielded witn good gold plated connectors. The difference for the good is there both in picture quality but specially in sound if you have a decent pair of speakers and a good processor.

Anybody out there? No new owners / cureent owners willing to share experiences?

I hope for Samsung the activity level of this forum does not reflect sales amounts... :-)

I think many have moved on to the F8000 thread...

Bump

Hi guys
I'm champing at the bit to buy a new TV, and I'm hoping some more opinions will drop in. Does the sticker price of the 75" justify what your getting in the box? My fingers are crossed that it will drop in price once the 2013 models are released

We have had our UN75ES9000 since last October and it has been perfect.  Yes it was expensive but worth every penny!  If you want a big TV with a great picture and features (and have the dough) I would not hesitate taking the plunge.  The MSRP has not dropped since we bought but I was able to get a great deal on the unit ($7,800).

If you can wait till June, the F8000 75 inch model will be available, with a supposedly better picture at a slightly lower price.

See the F8000 thread.

What country did you purchase the TV in?

Thanks, ill have a look. I can definitely wait (although I would prefer not too
It will be interesting to compare PQ between the 9000 and the F8000

Purchased in Ontario, Canada.

The salesperson at the store told me that there is no flexibility in price at all on this set. He said Samsung is very strict about pricing on this model. Does anyone know if there is any truth to this?

Well, if you just read through this thread you will see various posters mentioning different prices...

Check out what Robert Zohn has to say at Value Electronics. He's the one who conducts the annual flat panel shootouts. He says the new models are better.

http://www.un65f8000.com/Samsung_UN65F8000.php
Edited by moonhawk - 2/15/13 at 10:21pm

I think hemis giving you..... I bought mine with a big discount too. Although in europe, but retail was 6900 euros, and I paid for mine 5600 euros.. Minus a samsung discount of 500 euros of a promorion. So shop around..

He mentions the F8000s are better than the E8000s. I dont see any mention as to how they compare to the E9000. In general people with the 9000 dont get any of the things he mentions as an improvement of the Fs vs the Es. So I think he sis not have the 9000 in mind when writing that.

In my,case, I do not really care. From the 9000, I think any material change for the better will have to come from a breaktrough new technology, like 4K or OLED, and we still are far away from that. I feel farther improvements from the fantastic 9000 based on evolution of same technology will be marginal at best, so I think the 9000 will yield top PQ for a long time in my view.

Will aslo be interesting to see the 75 inch F performance. It is a very different ball game to get right a 55 or even 65 inc edge lighted screen than a 75... They got it mostly very right with the 9000. So it eill be interesting how they implement the f at this size.

Having said that, if they are similar in PQ (and well could be since they have exactly the same technologies, at least on paper and specs), but cheaper than... You will have to wonder in that case what Samsung had in mind by releasing the 9000 and what advantadge it yields to customer for expendimgmthe extra, besides saying I have a 9000 series... Which for me that alone is worth 0.