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15" DVC385-88 Vented Build

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 
I picked up two of these 15" drivers when they were on sale. Driver #2 will be going into a F-20 (some pieces for that box cut already, that's the next build!).

I really just wanted to try my hand at making an enclosure. I sized it to fit behind my screen wall, but it will also tuck in nicely to my living room.

Overall outside dimensions will be 18"W x 35"D x 29"H.

Total volume is 7.86 cu.ft., less the driver which I guessed at .5 cu.ft. (7.36 cu.ft. net)

Two slot ports 2.125H x 7.125W x 32.75D (~18 Hz)

This is what it modeled at (500W):




I build the ports as a completely separate unit. When I put the baffle on I wanted 1.5" at the bottom rather than just a skinny .75" piece of MDF between the port opening and the floor:


IMG_1003.JPG

I used half-lap joint on the braces, which are biscuited into the walls of the enclosure:
IMG_1004.JPG


Mounting the ports in the enclosure (I remembered to paint them before I glued them!):
IMG_1005.JPG

Caulk on there is Green Glue sound dampening stuff:
IMG_1007.JPG

All glued and clamped:
IMG_1009.JPG

That's it for today. I cut the back too short (miscalculated by .375" when I forgot to account for a rabbit joint), but I have enough to cut it again. Hopefully I'll get it wrapped up and ready for paint tomorrow.

Tim
post #2 of 25
Thread Starter 
Tools used:

Portable table saw
Circular saw
Plunge router
Plate jointer
Paslode finish nailer
Titebond on the biscuits, Gorilla glue on all the other joints

Lot of clamps!
post #3 of 25
Thread Starter 
I need some help mounting the driver.

I had originally planned on mounting the driver flush with the front. Upon examination of the driver, it has a cork gasket applied to the face-- presumably for mounting the driver to the back of the baffle.

Is one method preferred over the other? I can obviously just pull the gasket off and mount from the front as originally planned. However, it's not much more trouble to mount to the backside of the baffle.

Thanks!

Tim

edit: gasket now removed. Hole OD 15-3/16", ID 14". Rabbit depth 0.355", which should allow for the gasket tape.
Edited by Mr.Tim - 7/22/12 at 9:44am
post #4 of 25
Thread Starter 
Got the front baffle done:


Here you can see the rabbit joints:
IMG_1012.JPG

Unfortunately I don't have a 3/8" roundover bit, so I'll have to wait to finish out the corners. The rabbit joints are 3/8", so it should make for some nice corners. I also need to order a terminal cup.
post #5 of 25
that is looking great.

in this case, rear or front mounting the driver provides no difference in performance. choose whatever looks best.

btw, biscuit joinery isn't necessary on something like this.

the 1x2 and 2x4 inside the belt to focus the pressure on the middle of the board is clever. i'll keep that one in mind.
Edited by LTD02 - 7/24/12 at 3:53pm
post #6 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

that is looking great.
in this case, rear or front mounting the driver provides no difference in performance. choose whatever looks best.

Thanks, LTD.

I went with the front mount. I modeled the 15" HF in this enclosure and it looks good, so I may swap it out if I decide to build a second F-20 with this driver. Front mount will make that a lot easier!
Edited by Mr.Tim - 7/24/12 at 3:57pm
post #7 of 25
Thread Starter 
After I dry fit the front baffle and trimmed to size, I had to unscrew the plywood from the MDF so I could Green Glue it.

While the two pieces were screwed together I drilled 1/4" holes through the plywood and about 3/8" into the MDF. I used 1/4" wood dowels as witness pegs so I can line things up again perfectly:
IMG_1014.JPG

IMG_1015.JPG

Used a 3/8" roundover on everything, looks great! I was going to use 5/8" on the front baffle (vertically), but I had some tearout on the MDF with the 3/8 (note epoxy filler in top left).. so I figured why press my luck. It won't be seen anyway:
IMG_1024.JPG

As expected, there was some tearout on the plywood from the 3/8" roundovers. I used West System two part epoxy with polyester filler to fill the imperfections. The epoxy will soak into the corners and harden them up. Not sure if I am going to hit them with a sanding sponge or hit them with the router again.. will have to see how hard it gets:
IMG_1025.JPG


Tim
post #8 of 25
Thread Starter 
Moving right along...

Experimented on the bottom of the box. Mixed some filler in with the epoxy and tried troweling it on. Didn't work that great:
IMG_1032.JPG

On this side I applied straight epoxy with a foam roller. More even, but there is still some filling to do. You can also see the front has a second coat of epoxy. When the epoxy is sanded, it is smooth as glass:
IMG_1037.JPG

Hopefully I'll be ready to shoot some finish next weekend. In the meantime I need to order the terminal cup. I think I'm also going to order a speaker grille.

Tim
post #9 of 25
I like how you have the slot vent separated. That looks like a good design. Do you have it up and running now? If so, how does it sound?
post #10 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_B View Post

I like how you have the slot vent separated. That looks like a good design. Do you have it up and running now? If so, how does it sound?

Hi Jon,

No, It's not up and running yet. It needs a coat of paint and everything after that. I got some speakon connectors and rubber feet from PE.

I also got the "noname" HVLP sprayer, which I used the other day... and it rocks.

I had to order General Finishes Black Underbody and Satin Polyurethane, which I just tried out with the HVLP on some wainscoting I am making. The sub is next in the queue for spraying.

I think I will probably paint this weekend. I try to line up a bunch of projects to be sprayed... being in the middle of my home theater build as well.. it looks like I will have plenty to spray on Sunday. I also have my F-20 that has to be painted but I have some bracing and sanding to do first.

Tim
post #11 of 25
Thread Starter 
A little bit of progress.. put the speakon connector in the rear of the box. Dunno what size hole it required (edit: yes, I do, actually.. it mic'd out at .92"), it needed more than 7/8 but less than an inch. I drilled a 7/8 hole then used the dremel to make it a little bit bigger, which worked well.

I also put 3 coats of General Finishes Black Underbody on:
IMG_1314.JPG

It looks like you can't see any detail.. but it's really just smooth.. there's nothing to see. I wasn't going to get crazy doing the finish on this, but after the underbody went on it was almost perfect.. I filled the few blemishes and blocked the whole thing again. Going to spray the underbody again and finish with a satin poly. Next weekend.. hopefully.

Tim
Edited by Mr.Tim - 9/16/12 at 5:01pm
post #12 of 25
Hi Mr. Tim!

These look very nice. Did you ever get to finish 'em?
post #13 of 25
Thread Starter 
Cabinet is finished, but I don't have the room to install it yet. I also built an F-20 and have been using that smile.gif Too many projects going on!

Thanks for inquiring biggrin.gif

Tim
post #14 of 25
Tim - that cabinet looks great, some really nice work there. Looking forward to reading your impressions when you get it hooked up.
post #15 of 25
Thread Starter 
Thanks! It will probably be a while yet.. The F-20 is in my living room (yes, the wife is thrilled!). When I move the F-20 into the theater I'll replace it with this one.

Tim
post #16 of 25
Any update on this? Listening impressions, final pics, etc?
post #17 of 25
Thread Starter 
No, sorry, it is still aging (like fine wine) in the basement. I am finalizing my sub choices (which determines what driver I am putting in there.. looks like it will be the dvc385 as originally planned) for my theater so it shouldn't be long now. I purchased a u-mik so I will get some measurements when I get it online. I would say another month or so.

Tim
post #18 of 25
Thread Starter 
Okay, so you shamed me into finishing it up. It came out at 7.36 cu.ft and tuned to 17.5Hz. I'm a real beginner at measuring (these measurements are taken inside), but regardless of how I am screwing up the measurements I figured having the F-20 to compare to would at least give you some sense of how it performs:




(this is how it modeled)


Yeah, the F-20 is the reigning king in my house, but for the size this one is not bad at all. No EQ on these, mic was 3' away.

Think I should stuff it or put some insulation in there?

Tim
Edited by Mr.Tim - 4/24/13 at 5:40pm
post #19 of 25
Not sure. Need finished pics to determine that.
post #20 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

Not sure. Need finished pics to determine that.

I knew I couldn't get away without photos biggrin.gif

IMG_1680.JPG
post #21 of 25
That looks very nice. Good work
post #22 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_B View Post

That looks very nice. Good work

Thanks smile.gif

Looking for input on whether or no I should stuff this or put some insulation in there.

Tim
post #23 of 25
Finally done huh? biggrin.gif

Looks great!


I partially lined mine with denim insulation, would have lined to whole thing but because of all the bracing I put in them I could not reach the back half of the enclosure.
post #24 of 25
Have you got a chance to enjoy this bad boy yet ?
post #25 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Have you got a chance to enjoy this bad boy yet ?

Other than to run the sweeps, no. I have both it and the F20 in my living room. It doesn't hold a candle to the F20. The sweeps might not look too different, but 7dB at 20Hz is a lot. In person the F20 rocks the house.

Tim
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