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SEOS-12 / DNA-360 / JBL 2226(J) build - Page 3

post #61 of 233
8/20/12 at 6:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Bracing:
photo.JPG

Looking bootyfull biggrin.gif
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post #62 of 233
8/24/12 at 11:58am
Excellent build Brad. I'm building a test box this weekend. What did you use to cut your slot port? A jig and router? Very clean cuts!
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post #63 of 233
8/24/12 at 12:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Here are the three washing machines - boxes glued up with PL, except the baffles, which are still just screwed on until I have the mounting holes drilled.
photo.JPG
Woofer and waveguide held in by gravity:
photo.JPG
A closeup of the slot (shelf?) port.
photo.JPG
Also shown are the markings for the mounting screws - boy they're close to the edge, front mounting drivers is kind of annoying. rolleyes.gif I ordered these, thinking they'd work better than T-nuts/hurricane nuts, since they don't need as much space:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WC8TU2/ref=oh_details_o01_s02_i00
51-W5n-iShL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
...but still not much room to operate. The holes may (will) hang over the edge, and I'll have to bury them in epoxy. Or angle the screws, not sure which is worse. No space on the back to be able to do a roundover either.

Great build, Brad!!

I haven't updated my build thread yet, but I wanted to give you a quick heads up on the screw inserts. I used them on my last two boxes, but had to ditch them. Short story is they work great going in, but not coming out. If you don't ever care about removing the drivers, then go ahead and use them. If you think you will ever want to remove the drivers, you may want to try a different approach.

The longer story is that on my first box, I used lock washers and wing nuts. Given I'm used a removable back panel, that worked fine. After installing my speaker spikes with screw inserts, I thought I may want to use them on the drivers so I don't have to open up the box to potentially tighten in the future. I used a little wood glue on the threads and all seemed good, but I realized that my screws were too long (at least the non-threaded area) so I started backing out the screws. Or should I say tried to. 7 out of the 8 inserts spun out. It makes sense (now it does, at least) that the threads work in one direction (hold it tight going in) but not the other. Hitting the non-threaded part of the screws didn't help matters...

Anyway, just a heads up. A barbed knock-in insert should work fine, given they aren't thread in a certain direction. I couldn't find any local for my screws.
Edited by Java - 8/25/12 at 8:16am
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post #64 of 233
8/25/12 at 11:02am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by robotbunny View Post

Excellent build Brad. I'm building a test box this weekend. What did you use to cut your slot port? A jig and router? Very clean cuts!

Thanks rb - I originally created a template for both the waveguide and slot port - but I after I created the template, which was 2" high, I changed my mind on port size, and wanted 1.75" high. So I used the template for the waveguides, but for the slot ports, what I did was lay a baffle sideways butted up against the bottom of the baffle I was going to route, and then clamped a guide (spare piece of MDF) over it to guide the router base against. So I had to reposition for each of the four sides of the slot ports, but it worked out well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post

Great build, Brad!!
I haven't updated my build thread yet, but I wanted to give you a quick heads up on the screw inserts.

Thanks Java, yours look great and have the advantage of being finished! ;-)

I'm going to use wood screws for the woofers, but I've already committed to the inserts for the waveguides. My screws are threaded the whole length, so hopefully I'll have better luck.
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post #65 of 233
8/26/12 at 6:59pm
Cool. Thanks for the explanation on the port cutting, Brad. I ended up creating a jig where I can slide the baffle in between two aluminum saw guides with a stop at the end. Then I ran a t-square along the guides to set the stops for top and sides. Our builds are almost identical! biggrin.gif I cheated though...I ordered one of Erichs blank seos baffles and cut the woofer and port myself. tongue.gif

-Nate
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post #66 of 233
9/2/12 at 2:33pm
Thread Starter 
Post vacation update (I could get used to that place!)

photo.JPG

Cutouts for binding posts, edges sealed with thinned PVA glue and sanded, patched some boo boos, primed:

photo.JPG

photo.JPG
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post #67 of 233
9/2/12 at 4:16pm
Oh man. Looking good. Nice stage to be at too. You can almost hear the music.
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post #68 of 233
9/2/12 at 6:47pm
Awesome! At that stage, I'd be very tempted to install the drivers and go to town! I'm still in mdf dust land...getting close though. You're build thread is motivational. biggrin.gif What will your final finish be?

Beautiful picture. Is that Hawaii?
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post #69 of 233
9/2/12 at 7:32pm
Looks great. Whatsize round over is that on all the corners?
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post #70 of 233
9/2/12 at 11:24pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys - definitely getting antsy to get the drivers in and measure one, start getting my crossover lessons. smile.gif

The picture is from Kauai - Wailua Canyon. The finish will be basic black, in eggshell.

The roundovers are 3/8", except 1/4" on the inner edge of the slot port.
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post #71 of 233
9/3/12 at 10:11am
Looks great - and so do the SEOS boxes smile.gif
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post #72 of 233
9/3/12 at 11:03am
Sorry if this is a noob question, but are seos speakers for front and centre speakers only or can they be used for surround sound also?
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post #73 of 233
9/3/12 at 11:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BloodFX View Post

Sorry if this is a noob question, but are seos speakers for front and centre speakers only or can they be used for surround sound also?

Yes they work fine for surrounds, if you have the space to fit them in.
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post #74 of 233
9/3/12 at 11:13am
They can be used as surround also. They're a fairly new product so most people are just getting on with their LCR right now.

Brad, Kauai is beautiful. Don't tell people or it'll go tourism and not be as nice!
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post #75 of 233
9/3/12 at 12:01pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Brad, Kauai is beautiful. Don't tell people or it'll go tourism and not be as nice!

Did I say Kauai? I meant Mauritius. tongue.gif
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post #76 of 233
9/3/12 at 4:43pm
Brad, I know how much you liked your SHO-10's, but you are stepping into another class (maybe two steps smile.gif ). Looking forward to your impressions.
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post #77 of 233
9/3/12 at 8:00pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks Mike! Nothing wrong with the CHT speakers - but nothing wrong with trying to kick it up a notch with the old spice weasel either.
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post #78 of 233
9/4/12 at 5:03pm
How much better do you think the SEOS are than the SHO-10's? What sort of comparison would give me an idea? I was pretty much set on going with the SHO-10's until I saw the SEOS designs. They look fantastic.
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post #79 of 233
9/4/12 at 5:20pm
SHO-10 are pretty theater geared, the crossover is like 1500-1600hz... they play loud and clean, thats about it. Im sure their directivity is mediocre. For the sake of 2 channel the seos-12and delta lite would be way nicer.
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post #80 of 233
9/4/12 at 5:36pm
Looks great Brad! Good Work.
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post #81 of 233
9/4/12 at 6:55pm
Hi Brad,

Would you consider ABing SHO-10s against your SEOS speakers when ready? It seems like you are uniquely positioned for the task with the AT screen to hide the speakers behind. What do you think?
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post #82 of 233
9/4/12 at 7:10pm
That's a great idea. I would really like to hear your impressions Brad.
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post #83 of 233
9/4/12 at 7:42pm
Very nice! Please show us some plots when you can.

John
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post #84 of 233
9/4/12 at 9:25pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_B View Post

Looks great Brad! Good Work.

Thanks smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by zheka View Post

Hi Brad,
Would you consider ABing SHO-10s against your SEOS speakers when ready? It seems like you are uniquely positioned for the task with the AT screen to hide the speakers behind. What do you think?
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyng_fool View Post

That's a great idea. I would really like to hear your impressions Brad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbomb View Post

Very nice! Please show us some plots when you can.
John

I was thinking about that too - not sure quite how I could set them both up though, without one or the other being at a disadvantage in terms of position - one shifted left, the other right? little ones on top of big ones? one outboard, the other inboard? At the very least though I'll do some comparative measurements, outside and in room.

civic: re: the measurements you suggested to support crossover design - is elevated the only / good way, or would half space (on its back) work as well? Kind of worried about putting a 75 (?) pound box up on top of a ladder.
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post #85 of 233
9/4/12 at 9:49pm
All you need is about 5 or 6' high and you'll be doing good. Any means necessary. I've been using an old fridge.

You could try the on it's back method. I've never done it to be honest. There may be reflections below about 500hz though. I've done mirrored ground plane without much success above 500hz.

You could even stack all three speakers with the top turned 180 degrees towards the mic. How tall would that be? The "baffle" changes by doing that, but likely manageable. I turn mine so the corner of the fridge reflects sound away, like this...

954D88E0-F82E-40C1-A6F6-2B65BAC2B8BC-992-0000018FAEEC68CD.jpg
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post #86 of 233
9/5/12 at 8:57am
Nice tux, you haul that out ever time or is it a permanent yard fixture?

I usually stack some tables on top of each other to get mine about 5-6 feet off the ground as well.
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post #87 of 233
9/5/12 at 9:22am
Well, we're renovating right now, so it's semi-permanent. I'm not that trashy redface.gif
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post #88 of 233
9/5/12 at 11:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

I was thinking about that too - not sure quite how I could set them both up though, without one or the other being at a disadvantage in terms of position - one shifted left, the other right? little ones on top of big ones? one outboard, the other inboard? At the very least though I'll do some comparative measurements, outside and in room.

Thank you.

I think the way this was approached in a recent shootout at carp's is a good one. However if there is a way to easily store and load EQ settings in your AVR I'd definitely use the feature. I think had they allowed EQ and room correction the results may have been different and probably more relevant.
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post #89 of 233
9/9/12 at 12:52pm
Thread Starter 
Got the boxes painted, and one assembled without crossover, for measurements to help with crossover design, per civic:

IMG_0864.jpg

For mounting the woofers, I used screws from Home Depot, and spray painted the heads black:

IMG_0857.jpg

Here is my lovely measurement setup - not ideal, the yard isn't that open, but it will have to do (getting that box up on the tower of terror was a real pain - hope I don't have to redo the measurements!):

IMG_0861.jpg

IMG_0862.jpg

IMG_0863.jpg

Here are a couple raw measurements - will send REW .mdat file to tuxedocivic for assistance on the crossover design.

woofer and CD measured separately, on axis:

on-axis-separate.png

on axis, 15 degrees off axis, and 30 degrees off axis, woofer and CD in parallel:

on-and-off-axis-combined.png
Edited by Brad Horstkotte - 9/9/12 at 1:04pm
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post #90 of 233
9/9/12 at 2:13pm
I'm giving you the big thumbs up for trying to tackle this design. The speakers look great! Keep those pictures handy because they'll be going up on the new site once it's done.
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