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1000W into 8 Ohms - What amp would you choose?

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Making a move to increase the power delivered to my TD18H+ AE drivers. They are in 100L sealed cabs and operate from 23Hz (highpass 2nd order) to 300Hz

If I was just operating from 80Hz and down I wouldn't be thinking too long about it; just give them the power in whatever form is cheapest (which is class D or some variant). However, I want to drive them cleanly up to 300Hz so I'm calling out to experienced members here who have tried a few pro amps. My current amp is an AM1200S which is 2 channels of 800W into 8 Ohm bridged. It's class AB and is doing duties driving my 2 MaelXs. While it has the power, I found it a bit harsh when used driving higher frequencies.

My available options are (In Australia we don't have all the choices you might think of):

Crown MA-3600VZ - 965W into 8ohm
Camco Tecton 38.4 - 1136W into 8Ohm
Clone LG FP10000Q - 1300W into 8Ohm
Generic 1RU Class D (these are skinned in a variety of brands) - 1050W into 8Ohm
Powersoft DIGAM D4002 - 650W into 8ohm

They are definitely not all the same price and some of these are only accessible to me second hand (due to price!) but it's what I have dug up with a bit of research. There may be some other amps I am overlooking so please feel free to enlighten me wink.gif
post #2 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Antripodean View Post

Making a move to increase the power delivered to my TD18H+ AE drivers. They are in 100L sealed cabs and operate from 23Hz (highpass 2nd order) to 300Hz
If I was just operating from 80Hz and down I wouldn't be thinking too long about it; just give them the power in whatever form is cheapest (which is class D or some variant). However, I want to drive them cleanly up to 300Hz so I'm calling out to experienced members here who have tried a few pro amps. My current amp is an AM1200S which is 2 channels of 800W into 8 Ohm bridged. It's class AB and is doing duties driving my 2 MaelXs. While it has the power, I found it a bit harsh when used driving higher frequencies.
My available options are (In Australia we don't have all the choices you might think of):
Crown MA-3600VZ - 965W into 8ohm
Camco Tecton 38.4 - 1136W into 8Ohm
Clone LG FP10000Q - 1300W into 8Ohm
Generic 1RU Class D (these are skinned in a variety of brands) - 1050W into 8Ohm
Powersoft DIGAM D4002 - 650W into 8ohm
They are definitely not all the same price and some of these are only accessible to me second hand (due to price!) but it's what I have dug up with a bit of research. There may be some other amps I am overlooking so please feel free to enlighten me wink.gif


difference between 80hz and 300hz isnt much ... not to mention class d amps work just as well as ab if not better these days.
post #3 of 8
In this order: K20, FP14K, iT8K, PL380, 5002VZ, FP10KQ, XLS5000, EP4K

Mono Bridged would be best; maybe even get two, for stereo operation.

Not sure about the others...
post #4 of 8
bth, what is your ordering based on?

the o.p. wants 1000 clean watts in to each of his two subs. you have amps on your list that deliver 10X that amount and cost accordingly.

a behringer inuke6000 will do the trick for an order of magnitude less cost...add dsp for a hundred buck or so in order to fix the extreme rolloff of that sub sealed.

1100 watts rms per channel stereo.
http://www.behringer.com/assets/NU1000_NU3000_NU6000_NU1000DSP_NU3000DSP_NU6000DSP_WebBrochure.pdf
US$499 should be reasonable down under.
Edited by LTD02 - 7/28/12 at 1:46pm
post #5 of 8
"It's class AB and is doing duties driving my 2 MaelXs. While it has the power, I found it a bit harsh when used driving higher frequencies."

you are probably clipping the amp because the 2 maels are soaking up all your current.
post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cookieattk View Post

difference between 80hz and 300hz isnt much ... not to mention class d amps work just as well as ab if not better these days.

Appreciate what you say but I've heard good and bad designs in class AB and class D
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

In this order: K20, FP14K, iT8K, PL380, 5002VZ, FP10KQ, XLS5000, EP4K
An impressive list of amps that you have tried. Have you run and compared your subs up to 300Hz with these? Probably not enough power in the grid to drive a K20! biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

bth, what is your ordering based on?
the o.p. wants 1000 clean watts in to each of his two subs. you have amps on your list that deliver 10X that amount and cost accordingly.
a behringer inuke6000 will do the trick for an order of magnitude less cost...add dsp for a hundred buck or so in order to fix the extreme rolloff of that sub sealed.
1100 watts rms per channel stereo
Thanks, I will have a look at the 6000 as they are becoming available here. I really want to audition them but it's not easy to do that. I have a DCX so EQ duties are covered wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

you are probably clipping the amp because the 2 maels are soaking up all your current.
Good point! Something I need to keep in mind when chosing an amp is also having enough power to feed them too!

Found this review on PSW which is interesting.
post #7 of 8
LG clone 10,000Q gets my vote if the Behringer EP2500/4000 is not available. The clone gives you the option to power both (or more in the future) and power the Mal-X's with one amp. smile.gif

Also, consider removing the high pass filter altogether and control excursion by filling the box with bricks or something to lower the net airspace. Add that extra displacement to the <20hz. Let them contribute, I say.
post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

LG clone 10,000Q gets my vote if the Behringer EP2500/4000 is not available. The clone gives you the option to power both (or more in the future) and power the Mal-X's with one amp. smile.gif
Also, consider removing the high pass filter altogether and control excursion by filling the box with bricks or something to lower the net airspace. Add that extra displacement to the <20hz. Let them contribute, I say.
Yes, the FP10000Q is the obvious choice for many reasons. Right now the TD18s have a Q of 0.5 so I can fill them up to increase that and control excursion. The more subs the merrier! smile.gif
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