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The Big Bay Home Theatre - Page 7

post #181 of 315
The projector box could be red. Also you can turn your soffit into a plenum and box in an area, line it with linacoustic and put your diffuser size of choice, larger than a 6 inch round on the bottom. I've securred larger soffits than those to just the drywall. Use lots of screws and liquid nails. It will work. If you can't sleep at night throw in a couple of toggle bolts. But I wouldn't bother.

On the projector postion the fans in the equipment room, Pull air from the front of the projector box through a pathway in the 5 inch soffit you create.
Edited by BIGmouthinDC - 1/10/14 at 5:15am
post #182 of 315
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

The projector box could be red. Also you can turn your soffit into a plenum and box in an area, line it with linacoustic and put your diffuser size of choice, larger than a 6 inch round on the bottom. I've securred larger soffits than those to just the drywall. Use lots of screws and liquid nails. It will work. If you can't sleep at night throw in a couple of toggle bolts. But I wouldn't bother.

On the projector postion the fans in the equipment room, Pull air from the front of the projector box through a pathway in the 5 inch soffit you create.

Great idea about turning the soffits into plenum. Could something this "simple" conceivably work?

post #183 of 315
I do that with ducts all the time. Into the soffit at one location then move to the side for the register. Gives you a chance to slow the air speed. Now as far as using the return duct for the projector box I'm not certain there would be enough draw and I worry about you over heating your projector.
post #184 of 315
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I do that with ducts all the time. Into the soffit at one location then move to the side for the register. Gives you a chance to slow the air speed. Now as far as using the return duct for the projector box I'm not certain there would be enough draw and I worry about you over heating your projector.

Yah, this is going to be tricky.

One option I could possibly try is to make the plenum box on the left side smaller (less wide). I'd then cut a 4" hold in the side of the PJ box and connect some 4" flex. The flex would run a very short distance in the soffit (2-3 feet) and then connect to the backside of one of the cool components fans (http://www.coolcomponents.com/Cabinet-Vent_p_195.html) which would simply spit out the warm air into the equipment room. The nice thing about this is that it would be temp controlled.

Thoughts?


Edited by memmo - 1/12/14 at 2:47pm
post #185 of 315
Thread Starter 
Had some free time this afternoon, so I go the decking on the stage. First layer with PL, Second layer with Green Glue. It's incredible how much more solid it feels with the second layer -- anyone on the fence -- do it!

First layer done:


Green Glue!



Second layer done. All thats left to do is run the router around the edges to trim flush. I purposefully left an overlap of 1/8" -- figured it would be easier and quicker to get a more accurate curve with the router and a flush trim bit.



Also went to the local granite place today and managed to find some Carrara marble off-cuts for 4 of our basement doors including the theater all for about $100. The theater threshold alone is 36" x 11" so it was a good value. The Carrara is neutral enough that it should "play nicely" with the light grey carpet we have planned for the basement and the dark grey carpet we're going to use in the theater.

post #186 of 315
Nice work on the stage .... is the stage going to be carpeted if so you will want to keep a lip on it

looks like you taped off a 120" screen ? i have the same size and we sit just over 10ft but when you recline some you end up being about 12ft to me if i went any bigger i think i would feel that it would be hard to watch fat moving action scenes just my opinion
i think others have bigger screens and sit closer
Edited by snickers1 - 1/12/14 at 3:53pm
post #187 of 315
Thread Starter 
I'm going to clad the stage fronts in hardwood veneer and add some trim bullnoses. The carpet will run on the stage top, the top of the step and then continue on the floor. It will not wrap down.
post #188 of 315
Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post

I'm going to clad the stage fronts in hardwood veneer and add some trim bullnoses. The carpet will run on the stage top, the top of the step and then continue on the floor. It will not wrap down.

can't wait to see it going to look great keep up the progress smile.gif
post #189 of 315
Read your thread from the beginning this evening. Thanks for making the effort to post your build thread. Good luck completing it, I am sure you will have a space you can be proud of when it is completed.
post #190 of 315
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

Nice work on the stage .... is the stage going to be carpeted if so you will want to keep a lip on it

looks like you taped off a 120" screen ? i have the same size and we sit just over 10ft but when you recline some you end up being about 12ft to me if i went any bigger i think i would feel that it would be hard to watch fat moving action scenes just my opinion
i think others have bigger screens and sit closer

Yah, a 120" wide 2:35 screen. We'll be at about 11 ft seated upright and a bit further back when reclined. I thought about going smaller but just couldn't smile.gif
post #191 of 315
Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post

Yah, a 120" wide 2:35 screen. We'll be at about 11 ft seated upright and a bit further back when reclined. I thought about going smaller but just couldn't smile.gif

no no never go smaller if anything go bigger lol! smile.gif
post #192 of 315
Thread Starter 
With the stage done, focus is going to turn to screen wall and soffit framing.

Some questions for the soffits:

1. I'm wondering the best way to frame the soffits. I was thinking of building 2x2 ladders and hanging it from the ceiling. Then simply attaching a 2x2 horizontally on the wall, then connecting in a few spots. Finally just covering with drywall. The other option seems to be using a couple of 2x2 cleats and some MDF which gets covered in GOM.

2. Are the soffits large enough to even consider leaving the bottoms open on the side walls to use from some bass absorption?

3. I'm thinking about making the front soffit a bit deeper since I'd like to use some lights for a screen wash effect. Question is -- how far should the lights be placed from the screen. I'm thinking 4" cans.
post #193 of 315
Thread Starter 
So I'm thinking of taking this approach:



I would cover the MDF in GOM. Stapling to the on the underside is no problem as it will be hidden by the fabric frames on the walls, but what would I do about the top where the MDF meets the ceiling? Given the slim soffit height, another piece of moulding is unlikely to fit.

EDIT: Debating if it worth the extra cost to build these out of MDF + GOM vs drywall + paint? I have lots of extra drywall so it wouldn't cost me anything. The MDF and fabric approach would cost $200 (GOM) + $160 MDF (4 sheets). I guess it saves me from bringing out the drywall compound again! I'd have to tape the top corner which I hate doing...
Edited by memmo - 1/14/14 at 12:23pm
post #194 of 315
Thread Starter 
More progress this weekend:

Trimmed the OSB on the stage. Got to play with a new toy.



Smooth as butah.



Got the surface mount electrical boxes mounted behind the screen wall.





Got the riser lights wired. This is full brightness, without the face plates. Used these cheap ones from Amazon.



Got the soffit framed. 5.5" tall, 10" deep.





Got the screen wash lights wired.


Edited by memmo - 1/20/14 at 4:32pm
post #195 of 315
Good progress
post #196 of 315
How did you mount the soffit framing to the ceiling? Is It going into a dedicated hat channel or just screwing through two layers of drywall with some glue? Nice job, looks great so far.
post #197 of 315
Thread Starter 
As per some advice from Big, I simply used Liquid Nails and some coarse thread drywall screws up into the double drywall. I can't believe how strong they are.
post #198 of 315
Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post

As per some advice from Big, I simply used Liquid Nails and some coarse thread drywall screws up into the double drywall. I can't believe how strong they are.

Storing that bit of advice in the old memory bank.
post #199 of 315
obviously the bigger the soffit the more you need to think about making them secure this is pretty small.
post #200 of 315
Sure, I'll make post #200.

Big thanks to Memmo (Mike). On Sunday, the GF and I made the 2 hour drive out to check out this room. Mike and his wife spent about 3 hours with us going over his setup. Interestingly, almost to the INCH, his room is the exact dimensions of mine so it was good to see it at the current stage. More so for the GF to be able to see what I've been going on about for months.

Can't wait to start the framing tomorrow at my place. Mike, prepare yourself for some emails over the coming 2 months!!
post #201 of 315
Thread Starter 
Ha! Was nice to have you and your GF over. My wife said it was like 2 kids in a candy store smile.gif At least now she knows I'm not the only SOB with crazy ideas.

More progress.. spent some time last night and drywalled the soffits. Ughh, how I detest drywall. I'll have a local taper who lives near by come and finish it early next week after I finalize the projector box on the rear wall. Some crappy pics snapped with my phone:

Insulated with Roxul





Boards up



post #202 of 315
I thought you would want that insulation in the soffit open to the room for bass damping.
post #203 of 315
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HFGuy View Post

I thought you would want that insulation in the soffit open to the room for bass damping.

I figured that since the soffits were so small, it wasn't worth the effort (mdf, covering with fabric etc).
post #204 of 315
I dunno, but considering it's wrapped around most of the room its likely alot of cubic feet.
post #205 of 315
Thread Starter 
Now, the question is.. what color to paint the soffits?

Same colour as the ceiling (undecided)? Same colour as the MDF columns + Wainscotting (black)?
post #206 of 315
assuming the ceiling is going to be dark I would match it to the ceiling so it fades away during a movie
post #207 of 315
Thread Starter 
Ok, so my Cool Components stuff for venting the PJ box is scheduled for delivery today and so I'm going to start framing the rear soffit/PJ box tonight.

Here's my plan so far... any suggestions would be amazing.



Notes:

1. Projector will "straddle" the rear 2x6 wall that is shared with the adjacent equipment room.

2. I'm planning on using some 5/8" OSB underneath the projector box framing as a shelf. Then simply applying drywall to the underside of that for the finished look. This is to minimize the height required for the box and providing a shelf that is flush with the 2x6 cutout in the wall. The rear feet of the projector will essentially sit on the wall framing, the front feet on this OSB. Should I be concerned about this from a support perspective?

3. I'd build the projector box first and then use some drywall on the sides before continuing with the rest of the rear soffits. This gives me an easy way to seal (using Silenseal) the projector box.

4. A 4" Cool components fan would be installed in the left side (at the top) and some 3" duct would run in the soffit and back into the equipment room.

5. I will put in a bit of framing in the front piece so that I have a spot to cut-out the drywall for the lens to fire through. The only question is, how can I attach some Edmunds glass without taking up much vertical space? I don't want to make the opening larger as I'll have my crown moulding for the rope run flush with the top of the opening.

Any tips would be appreciated smile.gif
post #208 of 315
Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post

So I'm thinking of taking this approach:



I would cover the MDF in GOM. Stapling to the on the underside is no problem as it will be hidden by the fabric frames on the walls, but what would I do about the top where the MDF meets the ceiling? Given the slim soffit height, another piece of moulding is unlikely to fit.

EDIT: Debating if it worth the extra cost to build these out of MDF + GOM vs drywall + paint? I have lots of extra drywall so it wouldn't cost me anything. The MDF and fabric approach would cost $200 (GOM) + $160 MDF (4 sheets). I guess it saves me from bringing out the drywall compound again! I'd have to tape the top corner which I hate doing...
mine is out of drywall and made with 2x2 check my build in signature
post #209 of 315
Quote:
Originally Posted by HFGuy View Post

Storing that bit of advice in the old memory bank.
My soffits and coffers are a little larger so I used first layer of OSB/GG/DW on my walls and ceiling that way you can put a 3” screw through the 2x2 and always hit wood. I also marked the location of the hat channel and insured my soffits on the sides and coffer down the middle hit the channel. I also tried to hit the channel when they were perpendicular. Just snap lines on every layer as you go to locate the channel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

obviously the bigger the soffit the more you need to think about making them secure this is pretty small.
Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post

As per some advice from Big, I simply used Liquid Nails and some coarse thread drywall screws up into the double drywall. I can't believe how strong they are.
Really good work you will catch me in no time. Three reasons 1. hung projector and screen 2. bad back which acts up from time to time. 3. I have been real sick the last few weeks.
post #210 of 315
Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post

Now, the question is.. what color to paint the soffits?

Same colour as the ceiling (undecided)? Same colour as the MDF columns + Wainscotting (black)?
My walls and ceiling are all really dark gray (SW Mount Etna) including the soffits. It looks really nice. I made my coffers red to match the carpet. All theaters have red carpet don't they?
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