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The Big Bay Home Theatre - Page 2

post #31 of 121
11/14/12 at 3:55am
Could the stack be cut when it comes down through the first floor, then a long sweep elbow installed so it was pointing toward the foundation, then a short sweep against the foundation pointing down.. that would bring the piping into the joist bay until it was against the foundation. You could then maneuver over to the hub at the floor.

Is that vertical 2" pipe just connecting back into the 3" horizontal at the ceiling? If so, it serves no purpose and can be eliminated.

Lastly, the sewage ejector piping should not be run under the electric panel like that. No piping can be run under the panel. The pit itself looks like it's in the dedicated panelboard space, but there's no easy way to fix that.
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post #32 of 121
11/14/12 at 4:32am
Thread Starter 
That is a great idea Tim. I will get a plumber in for a quote. Shouldn't be a big job. The 2" pipe is from the laundry room directly above the theater and the 3" is from a bathroom on the second floor. I suppose I could have the plumber connect the 2" into the 3" in the joist cavity so that only one pipe needs would come down and connect into the main pipe. Here are a couple photos:





I guess I should also consider raising the clean out since right now it would be under the riser slightly.

Lastly, yes the sump pump is located directly below the electrical panel (go figure!). The previous owner had it plumbed so the output from the sump connects into the waste pipe. The sump will stay where it is, but the pipe will be moved to the side as I believe we are supposed to be pumping the water outside rather than into the municipal system.
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post #33 of 121
11/14/12 at 4:48am
How far off the wall does the horizontal section of pipe run? Could your soffits run between the columns and hide the pipe? You probably won't be walking there anyway. Also, while your plumber is out, you might ask if he can rework the pipe to keep it in that joist bay until it comes out right next to the wall. That would save you a couple inches as well from the looks of things.
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post #34 of 121
11/14/12 at 5:04am
Thread Starter 
Here is the initial soffit design I had. 5" tall, 14" wide. I purposely put the stair to the riser next to the column so people would be "pushed away" from the wall giving more clearance from the soffit above.

In the current drawing, the soffit extends 2.5" past the end of the column, but it would extend a bit more in order to conceal some rope lighting.

Keep in mind, this design only uses an 8" riser. There would have to be another small step up for the rear seats to get them at an appropriate height, but I thought that would be better given the height limitation. Looking at this again now, at 8", I probably don't need a step???


Edited by memmo - 11/14/12 at 5:15am
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post #35 of 121
11/14/12 at 5:40am
Correct no step needed for 8 inches.
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post #36 of 121
11/14/12 at 6:27am
Thread Starter 
I had a plumber in this morning and he said it was no problem to re-route everything and had some good suggestions.

He would cut the main stack near the bottom, install a 4" coupler and raise + rotate the cleanout 90 degrees (which would shave 1.5-2 inches off my column depth) then run straight up. The pipes up top would be rotated so they could run in the joist cavity, bringing them as tight to the wall as possible. A "Y" would then be installed to connect the 2" to the 3" main pipe.

I think this would clean it up nicely. He would also re-locate the pipe coming out of my sump pump and also move some minor PEX stuff that is currently hanging below the joist.

His quote was $350 for everything including materials. Does that sound fair?
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post #37 of 121
11/14/12 at 6:41am
Yes
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post #38 of 121
11/14/12 at 7:23am
Somehow I missed Mr. Tim's post earlier, but it sounds like you guys already had the plumbing issue figured out. I also think $350 seems reasonable.

Also, once your pipes are moved closer to the wall, would you still need to have a soffit 2.5" deeper than the column, or could you use that 2.5" inches to hide your rope lighting? Also, I'm not sure what your rope lighting budget is, but have you considered something like an edge lit LED? I think they're pretty pricey, but you could probably come up with a creative way to get the effect you want without losing much room in your ceiling. IIRC, Mogey used edge lit LED's around his columns.

EDIT: You mentioned that you were hoping to use the soffit to house can lights, have you considered sconces instead? You could surface mount them on the wall between your columns if you are trying to save width, and hide the conduit behind your fabric panels.

Also, have you considered some sort of arch detail for your columns to potentially hide the pipe. You'd have to add the same detail to all the columns, but it would eliminate the need for the soffit. That may be a little more work than it's worth, though.


..
Edited by J_P_A - 11/14/12 at 7:33am
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post #39 of 121
11/14/12 at 7:34am
Thread Starter 
After your comments this morning, I called in a plumber and was given the quote of $350 which seems OK to me.

The pipes up top will be moved to the joist cavity and will run down close to the wall. This is ideal, but I still need a 8-9 inch deep column as I need to box around where the pipe enters the concrete floor and this is about out from the wall that distance. The plumber this morning indicated we could move it closer to the wall, but that would involve smashing the floor to move it over which could cost more than I'm willing to spend.

With the pipes moved into the joist cavity, It gives me options... I can limit the depth on them to the depth of the column (9-10 inches) though that might look odd, or I could skip the soffits all together and go with some sort of molding detail with rope lighting behind. Only bummer about that is that I'd have to put lighting in the ceiling which means backer boxes etc.
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post #40 of 121
11/14/12 at 7:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post

........ Only bummer about that is that I'd have to put lighting in the ceiling which means backer boxes etc.

Have you considered wall mounted sconces? You could also supplement this with screen wash lights at the front of your room by "mirroring" you stage on the ceiling. That would give you a place to house cans lights at the front. I've read that you get quite a bit of light in the room from light reflected off the screen. Probably not enough to read a book by, but between that, sconces, step lights, etc., it'd probably be enough for a dedicated theater. I'm no expert on lighting, just throwing ideas out there.
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post #41 of 121
11/14/12 at 8:39am
Thread Starter 
Yah, I'll use cans in front of the stage for sure. I suppose sconces would be OK. I suppose I should have a look around to see what sconces are being used .. I'm usually not a fan of their appearance.
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post #42 of 121
11/14/12 at 8:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post

.........I'm usually not a fan of their appearance.

Now that can be a problem! if you don't find some you like, then I suspect cans it will be. If you run a 10" wide soffit around the room, does that put the cans far enough away from the wall to provide enough light into the room?
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post #43 of 121
11/14/12 at 11:56am
Thread Starter 
Tonight I should finish scrapping the obnoxious carpet clue up. There is still a lot of sticky residue, but it is pretty smooth. Should I leave it as I plan to carpet over it anyway or should I pay to have someone come in and sand the floor? I'm hesitant because my wife suffers from Asthma and it sounds like it would be a very messy (read: dusty) job.
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post #44 of 121
11/14/12 at 4:52pm
$350 sounds reasonable to me for the work to be performed. While he is there it might not be a bad idea to ask him if he sees anything else funky.

As for the carpet, I would have somebody come out and measure for the carpet.. then ask them while they are there. I personally can't see why the glue would be a problem, but the installer could tell you for sure.

Tim
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post #45 of 121
11/15/12 at 1:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post

The pipes up top will be moved to the joist cavity and will run down close to the wall. This is ideal, but I still need a 8-9 inch deep column as I need to box around where the pipe enters the concrete floor and this is about out from the wall that distance.

A suggestion - make your columns in multiple layers. The bottom box would be 9" deep and about 18" high to cover the pipes but the upper parts could be, say 6" deep to cover just the pipe running along the wall. That will cover the pipes without overly large columns in you room. You could go with squares, or you could taper the columns. Try a couple of different designs in Sketchup to see what you think.

Come to think about it, if you were planning a chair rail you could make the lower box height match your chair rail and the over-sized bottom boxes would look like a design element.
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post #46 of 121
11/15/12 at 1:45pm
Thread Starter 
Feel like i'm making some progress with planning. Had the HVAC guy in last night and we came up with this plan that I think might just work.



The jist:

The theater will not be connected into the main HVAC system, but rather a Mitsubishi Mr. Slim split (9000 BTU) will be installed on the theatre's rear (west) or side (north) wall. We would use the heat-pump version to to also heat the room. When it gets too cold outside for the unit to run, we would rely on electric baseboard heating -- though I suspect it wouldn't be required too often.

At the front of the room, we would exhaust air into an adjoining room (which will remain unfinished) using a dead vent system. There will be a cold air return (which ties into the main HVAC system) in the hallway outside.

Finally, for the equipment room, the tech suggested that we place vents in the ceiling right above the rack and projector, which would be connected to flex duct that would run in the joists and then join together right before a temp controlled fan. This fan would simply blow warm air out into the hallway. He suggested that I could buy the two-zone Mr. Slim condenser and only one wall unit now (for the theater) and if cooling was required in the equipment room, we could simply stick another on the wall in there.

Make sense?
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post #47 of 121
11/15/12 at 1:46pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

A suggestion - make your columns in multiple layers. The bottom box would be 9" deep and about 18" high to cover the pipes but the upper parts could be, say 6" deep to cover just the pipe running along the wall. That will cover the pipes without overly large columns in you room. You could go with squares, or you could taper the columns. Try a couple of different designs in Sketchup to see what you think.
Come to think about it, if you were planning a chair rail you could make the lower box height match your chair rail and the over-sized bottom boxes would look like a design element.

Nice idea, and yes I will be using chair rail. Only problem is, I'd like to use some DIY speakers for the surrounds (SEOS Waveguides) so I need the column depth in order to conceal them.
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post #48 of 121
11/16/12 at 4:26am
Thread Starter 
I'm planning on heading to Lowes tomorrow to pickup lumber for framing. Trying to decide If I should frame the entire theater/equipment room with Bluwood or just use it for the sil plates and use regular lumber for the rest. Doing it entirely in Bluwood ads about $115 to the job... doesn't seem like much. Thoughts?
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post #49 of 121
11/17/12 at 4:34pm
Thread Starter 
Picked up the first round of materials from Lowes today. I went in the with intention of doing the entire framing with Bluwood but was terribly disappointed with the quality of the lumber. It is treated, but what good is it when nearly every piece was some of the most rough and warped framing lumber I've seen? Just as well I suppose, saved a couple hundred bucks.

Now I just have to find two blokes to carry the drywall downstairs for me.

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post #50 of 121
11/19/12 at 4:18am
Thread Starter 
After a consultation with Big this weekend, I'm re-evaluating my HVAC plans. A few posts ago, I mentioned that i'd try and keep the theater entirely separated from the main HVAC system. I was going to use two dead-vent systems, one for supply and one for exhaust. The more I look at the plans however, I don't have a spot for the supply. The exhaust is easy as I can stick the box in an unfinished portion of the basement. For the supply, I'd have to stick the box in the middle of the landing/hallway - which is not ideal.

So... I'm wondering - would it be crazy to keep the two existing 6" supplies feeding the space to bring in air and then rely on the dead-vent to exhaust it as per my initial plan? Are there any reasonable methods to lessen the noise that would be introduced by the main HVAC? I would convert the existing rigid duct to insulated flex for sure. The vents would either be in the ceiling, or if I can get away with a 5" soffit, they would be placed there.

I would still install the Mini Split for cooling.

Here's a drawing showing existing placement + new plan ideas.

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post #51 of 121
11/19/12 at 3:47pm
Thread Starter 
More progress this evening. Had a plumber in to move the offending pipes up into the joist space. Much neater and ofcourse, no need to box around it any more smile.gif

He also moved my clean outs up so they won't be burried under the stage and the riser.

Before:



After:

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post #52 of 121
11/21/12 at 6:07pm
Thread Starter 
Another potential issue I need to tackle before I get to far is projector position. I really want to keep it in the adjacent equipment room (for noise, cooling, headroom and aesthetic reasons), but that is going to mean a throw of about 20-21 feet.

Anyone have any suggestions for a projector that can throw that long onto a 120" (wide) AT screen in the $3k-4k range?
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post #53 of 121
11/21/12 at 6:19pm
I'm looking at a similar throw on a wider screen and I'm considering the Epson 6010 or panny AE8000.
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post #54 of 121
11/22/12 at 4:19am
Thread Starter 
Did some doodling at the kitchen table this morning.... Does this look about right? If it is, it shouldn't be that hard to find a projector to work within these parameters?

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post #55 of 121
11/22/12 at 1:07pm
Thread Starter 
I'm sitting here typing this as two dudes are carrying 100 sheets of 5/8" drywall down to the basement. Like its been said on here many times, worth every penny.
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post #56 of 121
11/22/12 at 1:58pm
I'm batting 0 for my posts over the last few days. Looks like you might right about the throw for your screen size according to the AE8000 install guide. So just disregard my ramblings biggrin.gif

How much did it set you back to have the Sheetrock moved? I think the going rate here is $2/sheet for an easy walk up and up to $15/sheet if it's a tough one (read, we don't want to do it).
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post #57 of 121
11/22/12 at 5:24pm
Thread Starter 
Yah, I paid the movers $2 a sheet. Took them about 2.75 hours to do 100 sheets. They weren't happy campers at the end lol
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post #58 of 121
11/23/12 at 10:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post

Did some doodling at the kitchen table this morning.... Does this look about right? If it is, it shouldn't be that hard to find a projector to work within these parameters?

Just a heads up, not all of the current crop of top ten projectors can hit that small of a 16:9 image at 21 ft. The recent Panny can only do 2.7 and change not 2.8. Can you move it forward a foot or so if you need to?
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post #59 of 121
11/23/12 at 10:46am
Thread Starter 
I believe so... I'm cooking up a possible solution that might allow me to move it up about 1.5 feet.
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post #60 of 121
11/23/12 at 10:49am
Also, keep in mind you don't count the total width of a 2.35 screen. You only count what the height is for a 16:9 screen. So, the throw ratio is the same for a 2.35 as it is a 16:9. There are projectors out there that will do 2.8 easily, but it isn't the normal gaggle (JVC, Panny, Sony, Epson, etc.)

In addition...remember what we talked about. Don't let the equipment dictate the layout of your room. Reducing the depth is a mistake. The only other way to preserve the depth and move the projector closer is to put it inside the room...which will require a hush box. I believe you said that the room is 7.5 feet high and you're tall...this starts to pose a small problem. smile.gif The best thing to do is preserve your room dimensions THEN find the equipment that meets the criteria. Designing your room around the equipment capabilities is a recipe for a poor performing room.
Edited by SierraMikeBravo - 11/23/12 at 10:55am
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