The Big Bay Home Theatre - Page 3

Also keep in mind where the top of the screen is vs. the top of the projector. Best practice is to the keep the projector lens level with the top of the screen. As long as the heat can be exhausted out of the box and the room, you can't hear projector noise, you can get around the hush box, the projector has adequate air flow to remain cool, the box does not interfere with the light path in any way, and you can easily access the projector front, rear and remove it easily for service purposes (also keep in mind you may upgrade to a larger projector in the future)...you've met your objectives!
Edited by SierraMikeBravo - 11/23/12 at 1:11pm

Shawn, Isn't that only true if you are using a lens, If you are doing a poor mans zoom CIH setup you need a projector capable of producing a 16:9 image, (native of the chip) as wide as the 2.35 screen discarding the bits above and below the screen. I remember running the numbers for a Sony and the sweet spot where the projector was capable of handling a zoom CIH was actually a very limited range of distances from the screen.

I suppose you could zoom it to a point it fills the screen (memory zoom), but you could do that with just about anything (don't need a memory to do that other than saving the zoom spot). Don't think it really changes the throw ratio much though unless you don't care about CIH.

Shawn you've totally lost me in that last sentence maybe we are talking about different concepts.

Isn't throw ratio the distance screen to lens divided by the width of an image in native chip format. Watching 16:9 on 2.35 screen is at one ratio filling the height. watching 2.35 content you zoom out to a much wider image filling the height and width of a 2.35 screen. Two different throw ratios and when electing to go with the zoom method of a CIH setup, calculating both ratios and making sure they fall withing the projectors specifications is important.

Big,

As we know, at this time all native chip format is 16:9. Hence, that is your constant image height. Expanding the image with a lens fills the screen without changing the height. Hence, all calculations for throw ratio should be calculated using a 16:9 width of the screen. Zooming throws that all out the window. All you are doing is taking an anamorphic image and expanding it to fill the screen. There is no CIH about it. If the image switches to a 16:9 format midstream, with zooming, some of your image will be above and below the screen. So, you'll have to change zooming. All the poor mans method is is a holding spot for the various zoom spots. You aren't cheating anything, just having a convenience with a zoom memory. In order to maintain CIH with a 2.35 and 16:9 you have to have a lens. No two ways around it. Therefore, you should calculate your throw ratio from a 16:9 perspective.

That is exactly what I said. you calculate the required throw ratio once for displaying 16:9 material in the center of 2.35 screen for filling the height , then you zoom out and the throw ratio changes to fill a 2.35 screen with a 2.35 ratio image. I'm talking about the zoom method, not using a lens.

Hmmmm...maybe we are saying the same thing only in a different language. Bottom line is, I always calculate based on 16:9 whether using zoom or not.

here are some numbers I worked up for Damelon and the Bacon Race theater

He wanted the Sony VW95ES on a 130 inch wide 2.39:1 screen. He also wanted to use the automatic zoom memory feature to shift back and forth. The Projector has a throw ratio range of 1.39 to 2.19

The two images he needed to throw were a 130 wide (2.39:1) and 96 wide (16:9)


"to hit 130 your lens needs to be between 180 and 288 inches from the screen
to hit 96 your lens needs to be between 133 and 210 from the screen

So the overlap of those two is 180 to 210

for safety margin the lens should be between 185 to 205 inches from the screen

15.4 to 17 ft from the screen."

That is a pretty small target position and was the smallest of the projectors he was considering.

Use the straightest lumber you can find, respect your tools particularly a framing gun if you plan on using one.

looks great to me

I would run more cat6 to the projectors.. It seems like 2x cat5 is needed for most baluns.. if you had to go that route you wouldn't have anything for IR, enet etc.

As for bass shakers, it depends how many you want and what you are going to power them with. You could run 12-2 for each shaker to be safe. I have 2 buttkickers and only ran one 12-2 because I am going to wire them in parallel.

AFAIK cat6 is not the wire you need for a grafik eye. 18ga PELV is what Lutron recommends, although other types comply with the NEC.

Tim

+1 on the CAT6. You can never have too much.
Some time back I put Cat6 all over my house (4 runs to each room and a few extras also) and I still kick myself for not putting in more.
For the PJ I would have at least 4 (2 for HDMI balun, one for network, one for RS232/IR) but better to have 6 in case something goes wrong or you want to put another piece of kit there. In my room I would like to have one more run to put the wireless AP by the projector (up high, out of the way) but can't so it sits in another room, limiting the signal.

Edit:
Forgot you may use a 12v trigger for something - that can be wired over CAT6

Nice. That is going to be sweet when you start running wires.

Subscribed.....Looking forward to future updates.

If it were me doing it, I would probably make a 4 sided box with a back the same as yours. That way you can seal the box completly before you mount it to the stud. It would also allow you to screw the box to the stud from the side and not just from the back peice. The only thing left to seal would be the wire penetration through the box with putty. Make sense?

The back box and those gasketed outlets looks like a plan. As shown in the picture however the backer box looks to fall short of sitting on the back of the drywall. Be sure to put a generous bead of caulk on the edge before lifting the drywall into place.

If however any of those outlet locations back up to other rooms that you can drywall after the theater I would be tempted to just go with outlet boxes mounted after the fact. You can cut a more exact hole after the two layers are up and install the box from the back. Then caulk and back butter the box with putty pads as much as you want. Old work boxes and it looks like that flange box can be installed just to the drywall if you want. The later with some screws though the flange.



As for the flange and the 1 1/8 marks that must be for walls with furring. In your case it doesn't make a difference the flange needs to sit tight to the backside of the drywall.