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How to put braces into a subwoofer

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
So I have most of my subwoofer box completed for my TC sounds lms-R 15"

I was wondering how I should brace my box. I have seen some cool braces with tons of holes cut in them, but I do not have a tool to cut holes easily. What are some other ways I can brace my sub? I attached pictures of it below.



Edited by WagBoss - 8/3/12 at 9:04am
post #2 of 14
Your box is already baffled, as the baffle is the panel that the driver mounts on.
post #3 of 14
Unless maybe you meant ports? Or bracing?
post #4 of 14
I think you mean bracing smile.gif

Check the image on this link, it does not need to be circle, any shape that you can cut to allow air to move freely is acceptable.

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_12_3/triad-gold-subwoofer-8-2005-part-1.html

"Baffle" if I am not mistaken is also used to describe a device or panel to direct flow of a substance such as water or for loudspeakers, the panels in a horn loaded enclosure
post #5 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post

I think you mean bracing smile.gif
Check the image on this link, it does not need to be circle, any shape that you can cut to allow air to move freely is acceptable.
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_12_3/triad-gold-subwoofer-8-2005-part-1.html
The scheme shown there gives the least effect using the most material, as most of the bracing is in the corners, where bracing is not required. This scheme gives the greatest effect with the least amount of material:
bracing.jpg
post #6 of 14
Thread Starter 
sorry I meant bracing.
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

The scheme shown there gives the least effect using the most material, as most of the bracing is in the corners, where bracing is not required. This scheme gives the greatest effect with the least amount of material:
bracing.jpg

Cool, thanks!

Would it be ok to use pieces of MDF for this application, or should I go out and buy a certain type of wood pole for it?
post #8 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by WagBoss View Post

Cool, thanks!
Would it be ok to use pieces of MDF for this application, or should I go out and buy a certain type of wood pole for it?
You can use just about anything. Dowels give the maximum strength to weight ratio, but that's not a concern with a cab that's not portable.
post #9 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

You can use just about anything. Dowels give the maximum strength to weight ratio, but that's not a concern with a cab that's not portable.

Bill,
What's the best way to build a sub with dowels for bracing? Do you glue down the dowels to individual walls and then assemble the whole thing and glue it up? Or do you glue together most of the box first and then squeeze in the dowels?
Thanks,
Dan
post #10 of 14
Assemble the box, drill 1/16 inch deep receiving holes, snap the dowels into place, no fasteners required, just adhesive. If the box is small determine the hole locations and drill them before assembly.
post #11 of 14
I used the OCD stick overload method.

Only because I already had a pile of wood cut and milled square.
post #12 of 14
Thread Starter 
Do you guys have a recommendation for cutting the braces? Should they be cut a little larger then the box so they push on it? Or a little shorter and fill the void with glue?
post #13 of 14
nobody replied to you? cut them to fit. if you follow bfm's advice above, you can make them a hair small and use an expanding glue such as pl premium.

making them too large may mess up your cabs geometry and will put excess stress on the seams.

wood bends, so if you are off by a hair don't sweat it, just glue and clamp it. :-)
post #14 of 14
You look like you got into the same situation I was in.

You have to cut to size so they slide in tighly, and glue into place.

What I did was cut slightly larger (a few mm) and sand by hand until I got the tight fit.
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