Designing and Cutting Curveo on Stage or Riser

I drew mine on paper first, and didn't worry about calculating the radius. Draw what looks right, and then from the centerline of the stage or riser, determine where each framing piece needs to go and how long it needs to be. Since your curve is symmetrical, simply flip these measurements to establish the other side of the curve. You could do the same thing on the floor of your room if you don't want to draw it out.



Then I simply put the framing pieces where they needed to go and the curve took shape. No need for a big compass.



Determining the location and length of these pieces is key, as they will form your curve. Repeating the same measurements on both sides of the stage centerline will keep things clean and symmetrical.








To cut the OSB for the top, I laid an uncut piece over the framing, laid on the floor on my back, and scribed the top and bottom curves. I then flipped the OSB over and added the overhang amount (1 3/4" if I remember correctly) to each scribed line before making my cuts.

You could also use Biggie's method of stage scribing as shown below (from the Bethesda build)

Handy-dandy overhang scriber (long leg under lip, short leg on top)


Scribing against the short leg

Nice pics spaceman... I will be trying to do the same thing in about a week on my vacation following your pics

I'm a first time DIY'er, but here's another option that I thought worked very well.

 

I had my frame built first.  I then grabbed a couple of pieces of plywood and ripped them down.  I used clamps and just a few blocks to attach the front curve.  I then moved that middle block you see below to adjust the shape of the curve until I was happy with it.  I also was able to adjust the depth of the curve by using thicker or thinner blocks at the apex.  This way I was able to see the curve in my room to get a really good sense of it.  I'm glad I did because I ended up make it deeper and more of a gradual curve in the front.

 

 

 

Once I was satisfied with the curve, I left the fake curve on the stage.  I took my 2x6's and set them on top of the curve and marked them for cutting  (length AND angle).  Once they were all cut, I attached them and shimmed the stage.

 

 

 

Finally, I just attached the curve.  I did my decking exactly like spaceman did above.

 

 

 

 

As for the header, I used three nails and put 1" pvc piping over and traced it, but honestly, I wasn't thrilled with the ease and accuracy of this method.  I would do your stage and just copy/trace for the header or riser.

What I am going to do is build something like this but I am also going to add a spot on the left and right so my speakers will be sitting up a little higher... So they will be sorta on the stage but off to the sides

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Don't forget to buy a new blade for your jigsaw. Don't ask me how I know this.

After cutting a few stages i invested in a much beefier Jig saw, A Bosch. They also have a blade that is twice as thick as a regular blade and it stays straighter.
Edited by BIGmouthinDC - 8/4/12 at 6:06pm

Question

Are you carpeting the stage?

If so are you doing it as you go or once the stage is built?

My dad picked up the wood today for me.

Going to be 14 feet long and 3 feet deep for the first main part then going to try to male the curve out from there.


If carpeting how are you securing it to the stage? Pulling it tight and using staples?

23/32" OSB= $15/sheet
23/32" Ply= $25/sheet

OSB is heavier too. The more mass the merrier.

I used OSB because it's cheaper and I routed a roundover edge with zero issue.